Way2slow

It's gonna depend on how bad you damaged it, it may not be able to be redone. I've never dealt with a prop shot that replacing the hub was not stand procedure when they repaired a prop.

Wonder what the fool was thinking trying to quarter a wake like that with a hull trimed up and flying like that in the first place. Must have been his first experience with a high performance type boat. At least it was a good thing he had the since to have a good vest and using his rip cord.

Just cleaning is going to depend on the condition of the parts in the carbs, gaskets etc. I've pulled a many one off, taken them apart, cleaned and reassembled and bought nothing but the throttle body to intake gasket. This is one time I would let a dealer with a good reputation do them. The carbs on your motor have some problems that the average Joe may not know about. First off, they are plastic, the bowls warp and the bodies get out of shape also. They should be reshaped when rebuilding them. Some just sand the bowls flat but that takes the little flange on top of it off. I prefer to use a heat gun, heat them just enough to soften them so I can work them back in shape, same with the bodies. There is a small emulsion tube for the mid orifice and it's very critical to get it clean and back in at the proper depth, some don't even know to take it out. Syncronizing the the butterflies is necessary after putting them back on the motor, many don't do this or know how. Link and Sync is another critical step of the setup. No dealer is going to quote just pulling them off and cleaning because if the rubber bowl gaskets and the side plate gasket have hardened they are going to be unusable and he's not going to eat six carb kits at almost $20 each, plus the gaskets that bolt them to the intakes and a $15 - $20 worth of carb cleaner, aint gonna happen. That's why they charge approx $450 to clean/rebuild them. I've had a couple of friends try the cheap route with theirs and it not run any better when done, then have their mechanic start trying to say it's the power packs and all sorts of things. Feeling sorry for them, I pulled their carbs back off, did them the right way and motors ran great. Which is a pisser because I don't normally work on other peoples stuff anymore.

I just used some copper bar about 1/4" thick and 3/4" wide and a couple of inches long. I drilled a hole in the center of each the size of the stud on my battery. I then drilled holes on each end the size of the studs on the circuit breakers. I fastened both breakers to both pieces so the copper bars were across them and tightened firmly. I mounted one bar on the battery stud and bolted Lug on the end of my positive TM cable to the hole in the center of the other. No need connecting breakers on the negative and positive cables, the same current passes through both so you only need one breaker. You will have your batteries connected in series, Postive TM cable to Positive post of battery A, the negative post of battery A connected to the Positive post of battery B and the negative TM cable connected to the negative post of battery B. The circuit breakers will be connected between the Postive TM cable and the Postive post of battery A. Cabela's usually has good prices on TM cable, some of the locals get very proud of their's.

If you have something to tow it with, can afford buy and run it, I wouldn't have anything less than a 20' fiberglass. Now, as for what boat you should buy, that's totally your call. Consider what you have to tow it with, how comfortable you want to be, how much you're willing to spend each trip and the size water you will be fishing. Most aluminum boats will beat the hell out of you on rough, choppy water. Glass boats are going to ride better, but weigh a lot more for the same size. Takes more truck to pull them (= more gas), takes a bigger motor to push them (= more gas), but if none of these are a problem, I would go with a glass boat.

Nope, and my wife left my digital camera at Disney. Nothing realy to make a pic of anyway. I just took out the round receiptical that was in it from the factory and have my battery cable through the hole with the connector on it. Connector is not even mounted, it's to big to go through the hole so I just let it sit there. I stripped of about a foot of insulation on the TM cables and kept folding it until I had a big enough wad of wire to fill the terminal, crimped them on and the soldered them.

Ask yourself?? MinnKota http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0031071017271a&type=product&cmCat=SEARCH_all&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&Ntk=Products&QueryText=circuit+breaker&sort=all&Go.y=9&_D%3AhasJS=+&N=0&Nty=1&hasJS=true&Go.x=15&_DARGS=%2Fcabelas%2Fen%2Fcommon%2Fsearch%2Fsearch-box.jsp.form23&_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1 Without MinnKota name http://www.sjgreatdeals.com/atscb50.html Then you have these http://www.terminalresolutions.com/servlet/the-1040/5-AMP-CIRCUIT-BREAKER/Detail?gclid=CL7dgM_OtZoCFQZfswodHWRQdQ The breaker I prefer have a mouting bracket on one side that mounts them directly to the batter. I get them from a local marine dealer, don't seem to find them on the web. I just noticed the Cabela's is the 60 amp, those are close to $30 each. I guess I should also mention, 50 amp fuses or breakers are probably not going to be big enough for a 24V 80 lb TM. On max, you are probably going to be pulling close to 60 amps. I run two 35 amp breakers in parallel with my 24V 87 lb. I can buy two 35's for less than $10, a 70 amp breaker was over $50. I wouldn't even consider running a fuse on a TM.

The cable lugs on these are held in with a flat piece of spring steel that locks under the tips. All you have to do is press it down with a small screw driver or something and cables slide out of the shell for easy cleaning. These are almost the only style high current battery connector used in the commercial and industrial world. You can always get a third connector, fill it with silicone and use if for a cap but it's totally unnecessary. If your boat was wired with four cables for a 12/24 motor, I would connect the two positives and the two negatives in parallel. That doubles the size of the wire and will be much more suited for the size motor you're running. Also, don't forget you upgrade your circuit breakers, if they are the factory size, they are probably too small.

The kits are rebuild kits, no such thing as a cleaning kit. If he only charges you for two hours, plus the kits, that's a good deal but it's very hard to do the whole job in two hours. There are also some other gaskets needed that are not in the kits. Make sure that also include link and sync, that's ajusting and syncronizing all linkages and the carbs, a somewhat time consumming job. The cam roller is a two part roller, a softer out shell over a harder inner. It's common for the outer shell to come apart and fall off, this does throw the syncronization and should be checked.

Sounds very typical of dirty carbs on these motors. Around here the going dealer price to rebuild them is $450. I would also check the timing advance. Make sure the timer base is coming all the way to the stop. I've seen cases where the wiring harness would cause it to stick. Also look in the carbs and make sure the butterflys are opening fully. I've seen the throttle arm sticking so they would not open for several seconds or not at all.

If it's sucking the bulb flat, there is a restriction between the bulb and the pickup in the bottom of the fuel tank. If it's a twin tank boat with a tank selection valve, I would start right there. Another commom cause it the antisiphon valve in the tanks. This is the fitting on top of the tank the fuel line connects to. There is a one way check ball inside that fitting if someone hasn't already replaced them with a standard barb fitting. If they are still there, throw them away and replace them with a regular barb fitting. Also make sure the vent is not stopped up, tanks gotta be able to get air to flow fuel. If it's restricted, it probably won't prime. Also make sure you didn't put the bulb in backwards. Nothing saying the new bulb is any good either. One the one-way check valves in each end of the bulb could be stuck open, if so, you can pump all day and it won't suck fuel.

I would start by checking the idle mixture adjustment, if they get lean that will cause it to lean spit and die. From there I would clean the carbs. The emulsion tube in a carb or two may be cloged. This will cause a severe bog and possibly die when you put the gas to it. If any of the recirculation valves go bad, they will also let it load up or if a hose going to them leaks, they can cause it to lean spit and die. Figure on about $500 to have the carbs rebuilt and a couple of hundred if it's the recirc valves/hose. One note, if it was an Opti-Pop, good chance you would already have replaced the powerhead.

That's only a 30 amp connector, way too small for anything but the smallest TM's. I would go with these http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0001110011811a&type=product&cmCat=SEARCH_all&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&Ntk=Products&QueryText=connectors&sort=all&_D%3AhasJS=+&N=0&Nty=1&hasJS=true&_DARGS=%2Fcabelas%2Fen%2Fcommon%2Fsearch%2Fsearch-box.jsp.form23&_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1 They are rated for 50 amp but handle a little more with no problem. If you need larger than a #6 wire or feel you need more amps, go with this one, it's 120 amps http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/3BY22 Graingers also sells the one like Cabela's has. Also note, Graingers are only sold as a single connector and it takes two to make the set. They are both the same so there is no male/female. These are all I've run for many years and have never had one over heat or even get a little warm. I can't say that for any of those twist lock connecters. These also crimp/solder on, nothing to worry about coming loose. I run #4 battery/welding cable on my 24V 87# TM and use the 120 amp connector, but have always used the #6 cable and 50 amp on all the other TMs with no problem I'm not sure what the current draw of your TM is but make sure you have large enough cable. You have to figure double the length when figuring for a TM because the cable goes from the battery up to the TM and then from the TM back to the battery. It's very easy to have over 40 feet and if it has the old 12/24 four wire system they can be 70 - 80 feet. At fifty amps, #4 is actually a little small for the average bass boat (my 20' has two 21' cables) but since I seldom run on Max, #4 is fine.

The are some much needed service items that will need done to the motor so price them and figure them into your cost. Water pump, you can bet it hasn't been replaced in recent history, if ever at all. Carbs cleaned, as much as that motor has sat, they will surely needed to cleaned to be reliable. Fuel pump will need to be rebuilt. Most of the fuel lines are probably old and brittle. That older stuff doesn't handle the additives in modern fuels real well and it dries them out. As for the motor's internal condition, that's going to depend on how it has been stored. Motors left out so the early morning to mid-day sun hits them develope tremendous amounts of condensation. When a motor is not run for long periods the oil film breaks down on internal parts like the crank and bearings, letting them rust. When this happens the motor is pretty much junk. Knowing it has probably never seen fogging oil when it was left to sit.

Low Pro, That looks like a mighty small area under the floor of you project boat to use 16 cubic feet of foam. I only used 21 cubic feet under the floor of a Stratos 285 Pro and most of the center to runners were 10 inches deep. I got my calculations very close by laying plastic sheeting in the boat and counted the number of five gallons bucket of water it took to fill the areas I wanted to put foam. You only have to do 1/2 and double it for the other side. I also used US Composits but I think mine was the four pound. An electric drill and paint sterring attachment works great also. I don't remember is I used acetone or laquer thinner but one of them worked great for keeping thinks clean.

Depends on year and how many cylinders, and what you're going to have to pay for the parts, from the dealer they are very expensive. Also depends on if you know how, do it wrong and it can be a whole lot of money down the drain. If either of these fit, you would be better off getting a reman'd power head, just be dam sure you DO NOT do any dealings with Black Bird, you WILL get shafted. Pistons can cost you $150 each. Boring cylinders can cost $50 - $150 each Gasket set can run a couple of hundred. This is what's replaced in a basic rebuild, Bearings are normally reusable and the cranks can't be turned. If it runs a bottom roller bearing, you replace it but the needle bearings are usaully good. If crank is bad, the motor is basically junk because it gets extremely expensive and they also do not consider a bad crank in one a rebuildable core and will not give much of your core charge back when you send it in.

True floatation foam is a closed cell foam. It comes in two parts of liquid and you mix them when ready to use. You need a good mix to get full expansion and you are working in seconds from the time you start the mix until it has to be poured. It expands about 10 to 1 so you have to be very careful not to use too much because it will bust appart the boat. Don't think for a minute it's going to stop expanding when if fills the confined area, it just makes the area it's in the size it's going to expand to. You normally put the floor in, drill pour holes and pour the foam in voids between the floor and the hull.

I don't think you could add enough LED lights to drain your cranking battery, their current draw is very little. I would also only install them inside the rod locker and storage boxes and make everything red LED's. If you have a light in the side of the console and on the front deck for lights, I would change them to Red and hook everything switch for the light on the side of the console. White light destroys night vision and it takes about 20 minutes to get you night vision back. Red lights don't bother you no where near as bad. When night fishing, I use absolutely no white light, every light in my console is read, guages and all. The only white is the rear running light an it's on of those LED models than cast very little light in the boat but can still be seen the Two miles.

The head gasket is where I would start. Might want to sure the spark plug is tight also. I'm not familiar with that motor but many of the old Johnsons have a two piece head where the water jacket cover is bolted onto the head and if the plug is not tight they will let water get into the cylinder.

Be careful adding cup, it's going to drop your rpm. If you don't mind spending a couple hundred bucks, you might give Bob Lipton at 636 949-3121 a call and see what he thinks he can do for one of your props or if he has a better choice. He has worked magic on several for me. Might want to try droping the motor down to about 3 1/2". One of my rakers starts loosing lift bigtime if I try to run it any higher than that. I've also never had any experience with a F&S and all that extra bow weight might be hurting you.

Glades, Are you running an aluminum or SS prop? If you're not getting good bow lift on your ProCraft, you totally have the wrong prop and other setup issues. I've never had but two ProCrafts (back in the 80's) but both of those would hold the bow up nice and high. I'm not much on Mercs and their props but you need to find the one that has a lot of rake (similar to the BRP/OMC Raker). If your'e not running a jackplate, a 6" - 8" would be a great addition. For all around use, the 6" might be the better choice, the 8" might make it want to bounce a little when you start coming off plane if you don't get the motor trimed in fairly quickly. Add a 6" and if you feel you still could use a little more, just add a pair of 2" spacers. A 6" jackplate and a high rake prop would give you a totally different boat. At WOT and 55 mph, you should never even know there is a hydrofoil back there The only thing you should realy notice is the boat should have a lot less bow lift getting on plane and will get on plane much quicker. Other than that, nothing else should change. Some say it helps porposing at low speeds but I've never had that problem and have never noticed the foil affecting anything once on plane. DAWSONH, Sounds like you need to move your trim pin out another hole or try transfereing some bow weight to the stern. Foil is not going to do anything for your problem, but help you get on plane.

I've used a 17' cargo Grumman (wide, flat bottom) for about 50 years and have always felt it was the perfect size. Back in the 80's a kid that I took fishing a lot bought himself a 15 1/2' canoe thinking it would be great for just him. It was so unstable it was like trying to use a 6' kayak with just one person, with two, it was down right dangerous. After the first trip, he took it back and got a 17' also and loved it. Now, if you plan to use stabalizers, I gues you can use most any size but I've never used them.

Get the right one and with the motor height set properly and they never touch the water on top end and have no affect on top speed. I run one on my hotrod motors just because they do make a huge difference in hole shot and they also stop a bad blowout problem created just as the boat starts to lay over with one of the props I have. The boat runs 83 on top end with or without the hydrofoil. I would strongly recommend the SE Sport 300 though, if you are going to use it on anykind of a performance boat. I had to cut and inch or two off each side of mine to keep it from digging in during high speed, hards turns. When it bites the water it causes the boat to want to do things that are not real fun.

It does not matter what the battery is sitting on, it's not going to affect the charging or disharging of the battery. Sounds to me like your charger is a little small for your battery or your battery is close to being junk. Even run down to 20%, a 10 amp charger should restore it back to full charge in 7- 9 hours, depending on the size battery. If your battery has caps you can take off, get you a hydrometer with a floating bulb, not one of those dinky things with the balls, they only cost $5 - $8 and they are the best thing you can use to check your batteries condition of charge. Most parts stores sell them.

I scrape heavy part off and then use MEK to get the thin film that's left. I actually think the MEK is just working as something to keep it from sticking back and the rag full of elbow grease is what's taking the silicon off because it's still a little work, but's it's the best process I've found.