Way2slow

If you're planning on running one regular flooded cell battery and one AGM you need to make sure the charger will do that. Many chargers only can be set to charge like batteries. In other words you set it for AGM or flooded cell batteries and that sets the whole charger, not just one bank. You will need to make sure one bank can be set for AGM while the other bank can be set for flooded cell because they charge different. If not, you will damage one of the batteries.

CNC itself I can't help you with but in general I might. The sending unit on the jack plate is probably nothing but a variable resistor. The meter's signal terminal is going to have 12 volts on it going through the sending unit to ground. As the unit goes up and down the resistance to ground through the sending unit changes so at one end of the extreme the meter will be all the way up, at the other, it will be all the way down. A quick check to see if it's reading a short or open, take the wire off and if the meter is still all the way up, just touch a ground wire to the Signal terminal on the meter, if doesn't kick all the way the other direction there is a problem at the meter. Make sure you have 12V on the Power sourse terminal the make sure you have a good ground on the ground terminal. If it does kick the oposite direction, then you have an problem with the wiring or sending unit at the jack plate. Also, if when you take the signal wire off the back of the meter it drops to the bottom but jumps back up when you put it back on, you either have a bad ground at the meter, a shorted wire to the sending unit or sending unit is stuck/bad. To trouble shoot the problem you can take the signal lead off the back of the meter and use an ohm meter connected to the wire you took off and a good ground, measure the resistance. I would guess the sending unit to be a 5K or 10K pot so it should read somewhere between just a few ohms and 10,000. Raise and lower the motor and see if the reading changes as you do. It the meters reads reads and open or extremely high resistance, you may have a broken wire going to the sending unit or from the sending unit to ground. If it's reading extremely low resistance and does not go up when you change the motor height, the wire going to the sending unit or the sending unit is shorted. Kinda long but really not that hard to trouble shoot if you know how to use a multimeter.

I wouldn't be in a big hurry for two reasons. One is, a lot of people don't try selling their boats during the winter because they know the market is almost dead, however there are those that are despirate and you can find a good deal. The second is the way the economy is heading, there's a good chance come next spring, the Boat Traders and everything else is going to have an abundance of great deals. I think you're going to see a lot of dealers making some very good deals. You figure people usually buy a good vehicle before they buy a boat and vehicle sales are in a nose dive big time.

Sure would be nice if you could turn this over to the internet cops and have them get the scammer but I tried that once and they really didn't care. Said it was too difficult to track the actual person down and a lot of times they would be from out of the country. That was about two years ago, maybe they've gotten better at it now.

Yep, that's why I run a big Dual Purpose on my 225 FICHT DFI Evinrude. 880 CCA and plenty of reserve capacity. Straight cranking batteries while providing big CCA numbers don't hold up well in bass boats.

I would get at least a group 27 Dual Purpose, I personnaly run a group 30 because I want the biggest, baddest battery I can get. You want a dual purpose because it's designed to deliver the cranking amps your motor is going to need while still be able to withstand the constant discharging running all your electrical junk off it. As for whose you get, that's up to you. If you want a cheap battery that's going to give you two to three years average, those big yellow batteries at Wal-Mart are good. Don't go to a battery shop that sells their own off brand label, most of those are imported junk. I like Deka's and Trojan's and have pretty gotten where that's all I will buy.

Email them back and tell them that will be great, you've got a business trip next week and will be in Vegas several days. You will be in your truck so you can have the cash and pick it up there. Make them keep coming up with the lies.

Any 12 volt battery will run the TM but the first time you're a mile from your vehicle and paddling back, you just ain't gonna like. Plus, you buy a car battery and wonder why it's only lasting about 30 minutes and it's less than a year old. Deep cycle batteries are design to deliver minimal current of a long duration of time and a built to be relatively deep discharged and recharged a couple of hundred time. Car batteries are designed to deliver large amounts of current for a short duration of time. They are not designed to be deep discharged and it doesn't take many deep discharges for them to start going south in a hurry. There is a lot more involved but this is the short version. By the way, even in deep cycle batteries, all are not the same. The difference in price is not always just more the person selling it is going to make. Also, the smaller the battery, the less time you're going to run it. One word of caution also. Even that biggest battery you can get at Walley World will only run that TM on high for about less than two hours, so don't jump on the lake and go cruising or you will be paddling back.

There are different type tach with different type input signals so you have to be careful which tach you get. What kind of motor? Most newer motors have a tach signal lead you connect to and the tach will have a switch on the back that you set for the number of poles tha stator runs. Older motors may not have the tach signal lead provided. For those type you will need a tach that picks up it's own signal. Some of those will just wrap a wire around one of the plug wires.

I've used an old MinnKota 36 lb transome mount motor for about 30 years on 12 and 14' jons and never had any complaints. Granted, if you're going to be fishing large open spands of water subject to high winds, it might have a problem, but then again, I'd never be on a lake like that with a jon and TM. Yes, you will also need a battery and those Biggest Yellow batteries at walley world will work just find. Then go over to their automotive and get you a 10 Amp automatic charger. A couple of life jackets, a paddle and a throw cushion and you should be good to go. Might want to add a piece of 3/8" rope and a 18 pound mushroom anchor. Should be between $250 and $300 by the time you walk back out.

Well, there is a second way. Just as the boat starts to come down, you and your partner can jump up and haull *** to the front of the boat. You learn to do this when your jetting carbs because you have to cut the ignition at WOT and you don't have the ability to give it a little gas when it settles. If you ever loose power when on plane, you had better remember this way also or you're gonna have water coming up your back.

MADE IN China. What ain't these days. There is a very good chance SeaSence LED lights sold by BPS, plus Cabela's and Wal-Mart are made in China also. I've actually had more problems with LED lights going out than the old fashion $25 - $30 kits. I put the LED lights on my Stratos a few years ago, after the third one went out in less than a year, at $30 each I went back. I just gave that boat to my son and it still has the same bulbs three years later.

Most boats wired for 12/24 will be wired with four wires going to the front. They do this so they can use a toggle switch marked RUN/CHARGE to switch them from series to parallel and use the TM receptical in the boat to plug your 12 battery charger in and charge both batteries from the front. The only way he would need four wires is if the TM has four power leads and required four, which is something I've never seen but I will say I haven't seen them all.

May I also add, you might want to look at getting a 40 - 50 amp breaker and installing it on the battery and then connect the negative TM cable They make special breakers for this and can be gotten from BPS or Cabela's. That way it will protect you if you happen to get a short in either the 12 or the 24 volt cable

It's nothing but a cable short cable with eyelets on each end that will fit on the studs. You can get them with with regular cable ends like a car and use the lead post if you want. You can make one but I would recommend at least #8 wire. If you buy one, it will probably be #2 or #6.

No, you can do it with two batteries. You will connect the the TM negative to the negative of one battery. Then you will need a battery interconnect cable and connect the positive of that battery to the negative of the other battery. The TM positve will connect to the positive of the second battery. When connecting you electronics, you will just connect them to the negative and positive on one battery as is it was the only battery in the boat. Just be sure you connect them to only the one battery. A 12 volt battery is always a 12v battery doesn't matter if there are six in series for a 72 volt system, as long as you go across just one, it will still be 12 volts. The 12/24 switch is for speed control. You use the 12v setting for 5 lowest speeds and 24v for five faster speeds. Just occured to me, since your boat is not wired for a 12/24 motor you will need to add a third cable. You will need two positive cables and one negative cable going to the TM. One positive will be the one I described in the 24V hook up and that one will go to the 24 lead on your motor. The second positive cable will go connect between the two batteries on the interconnect cable and go to the 12V lead on the TM. Now when you connect your electronics I would suggest connecting their negative cable to the interconnect cable also and the electronics positive to the positive cable you used for your 24 TM connection. Trust me, it will still only be 12 Volts. What this will do is make sure you are using one battery to run the TM on 12V when using the 12volt mode and your electronics on the other battery. That way one battery is not doing all the 12 volt work.

Very common problem. You can still cut the throttle as hard as you want, just as the boat starts to settle, give it just a little gas for a few seconds to keep ahead of the backwash, you will feel it kinda lift/push the boat instead over coming over. Pretty soon it will be second nature and you will get the timing down to where it's no problem at all.

There's is nothing you can do to stop it. Most likely what you are seeing is just strees cracks and they are going to show in places on almost any fiberglass boat after they get a little age on them.

I'm not saying this to be ugly but if you've just bought a voltmeter and don't know how to use it, you realy should take it to a dealer or find a friend that's very familiar with how to check one out. I could walk you through the different steps you need to take with a voltmeter but it would take a while. If your batteries are the type you take the caps off and add water, you need to get you a hydrometer and check them. Most auto parts stores have them and only cost $3 - $8, (NAPA for sure) depending on what they have. Just be sure it's one with the floating bulb in a glass tube, those little plastic things or the ones with the little floating balls aren't worth much. Before shelling out a few hundred bucks for new batteries, I would at least do that. If you take them out and take them to most any parts store or battery dealer, they will usually check them for free. One thing, if you replace them, be sure to replace all three with the exact same battery. Running them in series, this is a crtitical step, all batteries should be identical and of equal age (use).

How did you check your batteries to determine they are all good? Are they the type with caps and did you use a hydrometer, if so what specific gravity readings did you get. If they are maintenance free batteries, did you use a Midtronics tester to check the CCA capacity? Although they are not real accurate on deep cycle TM batteries, if they have a CCA capacity on the label, they usually work fine. Most pure deep cycle batteries won't have a CCA label because they are not designed to deliver CCA. If not the Midtronics and they are sealed, did you use a load tester along with a voltmeter. If you just used a voltmeter, that didn't tell you anything. It's very common for a battery to show 12.6 volts or greater on a meter, but only show 50 CCA on a Midtronics or drop off to almost nothing during a load test. Have you checked the voltage drop at the connector on the TM side of the connector? You should have close to 38.4 on fully charged batteries and shouldn't drop more than a couple of volts under a full load. At the batteries, I wouldn't think they should drop more than about 1 1/2 volts. I've never run or checked a 36 volt system but have tons of experience with 36 volt industrial equipment and if those batteries drop below 35.6 volts under a heavy load, the batteries are near junk. One other thing, if in fact all the batteries are good, I would connect and inline amp meter and see what the motor is pulling. If it's a bearing, or other problem it will be drawing too many amps. If it a brush not making good contact or similar problem, it will not be drawing enough amps. I've had more than one that one brush would not be making doing it's job and run slow.

I guess I'm old school also. Graphs are basically useless if you are looking for detail at anything more than idle speed. Yea, they will show bottom contour and may show some stuff but if you want real detail, you will need a good flasher. I have both flasher and LCDs in the bow and on the console and I still use the flasher more than LCD's. The biggest advantage of and LCD is it records a history of what you've past over so you only have to glance at it from time to time. With a flasher, if you're not looking at it, you miss it. So, if I'm fishing, I usually use the LCD, if I'm moving and looking I'm using the flasher. I guess it helps that I bought my first flasher in 1965 and have a little more than a casual knowledge of how to use and read one. 1965! yep, that's pretty old school.

More like FOWARD, NEUTRAL and REVERSE.

Through hull won't work with standard Xducer in an aluminum boat. I've heard they make an Xducer for aluminum boats but have never had a need to see if that is so or how well they work. If they do make one and it works as good as the ones through a glass hull works, then that would be the best way to go. I would not consider one you have to bore a hole through the hull to mount the Xducer, those are not really intended for boats that might get into shallow water where they can drag bottom or this objects in the water.

OOps, misunderstanding. Wasn't taking about remotoring that one. Just suggested that so if junked that one, if you find one that has the three cylinder motor, it's a much better motor. Uuhh oohhh, I just noticed something. That's the old electric shift lower unit. If it works, you're going to be very lucky. They barely worked when they were new, didn't take OMC long to drop that idea. I sure hope you have a whole lot of time, know how and spare dollars you don't mind putting into it. Go through the basic first, check the floor and transome. Check the LU and se if has oil and it's black. If no oil drains or any water comes out, it's probably junk. Do the bare bone minimum to get it running and make sure it has forward and reverse. Good chance the steering cable will be frozen and you will most likely have to replace the whole helm to replace it. Water pump replacement is an absolute must. It will probably come apart the first time the motor runs but I would get it running before spending the money to replace it. Doing all the work yourself, I doubt you can make it usable for less than $500 and thinking close to $1,000.

Ok, we know you have great hopes of getting on water in a boat that cost you nothing but that may end up being the most expensive boat you've ever owned. Before doing anything to it, get it out where you can walk around and kinda bounce up and down on the floor in all areas. If it's cracking a moving a lot, or if you go through it, forget it. Next step, with the motor tilted up and setting on the rest, stand on the prop/mid section and bounce up and down. If the transome flexes and makes cracking noises, again, forget it. If you don't know how to work on the motor yourself, like replace a water pump, replace a fuel pump and rebuild carburators, replace all fuel hoses and intake gaskets (old one are don't work with the junk we have for gas these days) you're going to spend a hellava lot more on that motor than it could ever be worth. That's provided all the parts are still available. By the way, the old three cylinder OMC's will out perform that motor in every way under the sun, parts are more readily available and they will get twice the fuel economy. Personnaly, I would leave it right where it's sitting. If you have already taken possession of it, you have created your first problem, getting rid of it. Most landfills won't take fiberglass boats.