Way2slow

That looks more like the Gel-Seal they put the case halves together with to me. It's common for some squeeze out when they assemble the halves.

If you get a four stroke, make sure you get all the Horse Power the boat is rated for. This suggestion is not about the few extra mph speed, it's about getting the boat up and going easily when you have a couple of people and loaded. There's just nothing like having to ask your partner to step up to the front of the boat to get on plane or have the boat straining with all it has to get up. Four strokes are guite and they are economical but they don't make the power a two stroke makes. For me, the motor of choice is the Evinrude E-tec. Just as quit, very economical, much lighter, and lots more power (torque) for the same horse power motor. Now, with that said, make sure you're not going to be fishing and federal parks that have banned two stroke engines.

First off, you're looking at doing things all wrong. Number one, you don't want to wait and put a battery on the charger the night before you plan to go fishing. This just insures you will ruin your battery rather quickly. Second, you don't want a charger that cuts off when the battery is fully charged, you want a charger that drops into a float mode. Now, with a good charger that goes into a float mode, you connect the battery to the charger as soon as you get back from fishing and leave it on the charger until you get ready to go fishing the next time. Your battery will last for years and will always be ready to go when you are. As for the size charge, depends on the size battery, a battery should be charged at 10% of it's rated capacity. A 105 amp hour battery should be charged at 10 amps, a 120 amp hour battery should be charged at 12 amps. Slow is not better, forget this 2 amp crap you hear. ALL manufactors recommend a 10% rate for their flooded cell batteries and most other type batteries as well.

Most likely the battery is junk, the plates are probably almost totally sulphated, plus breaking up and making the sides of the battery bulge out. You can't let one sit for months and not charge it. Depending on the battery as to how much they will discharge but all batteries have a self discharge rate. Either store it on a maintainer/charger that will maintain a float voltage of approx 13.2 VDC or charge it approx once a month. As for storing it sitting on concrete, that's probably the best way if you don't mind the white spot is sometimes leaves. You want to keep it in a cool place and the concrete should help keep it cool. The old (don't store on concrete) went away many, many years ago. Back in the early days of the lead acid battery, they used glass liners inside a rubber or even wood case. The glass could get cracked and cause you problems. It has been many years since this type construction has been used and absolutely no modern battery has any ill affects being stored sitting on concrete. The only ill affect is what it does to the concrete if it was not clean and dry when you leave it there.

The hole is the bowl vent hole. The needle/seat is stuck open and letting it overfill and run out the hole. You need to find the parts so you can clean/rebuild the carbs. Sears provided very little support for their motors so I doubt you will find a kit from them. I have found parts by finding a Techumseh lawn mower engine with similar carb that had the parts needed. Here is a sight that might be able to help you http://www.discount-marine-parts.com/ob_eska.html It is a 1980 and their kit is a number DI-52027. I would also see if they had a water pump impeller, it will need it. Should have mentioned, that is an old Eska motor sold by Sears and have not been in production for many years.

I personnaly don't think that's always the best thing to do. Depends on a person's own abilities and what kind of parts he's using. The labor rates at most shops around these parts are at $90+ per hour. On a V-6 OMC, dealer price for a power pack is close to $400 and takes close to an hour to replace so as minimum, you're looking at $500 when going to the dealer. I can get an aftermarket power pack for less than $200, or good used one for around $100, don't cost me anything to put it in. I just did a set of carbs on a friends V-6. All the parts in the carbs were still good and reusable so it cost him a total of $10 for gaskets. He was having a bogg problem, his dealer quoted him $480 to do the carbs and said he would have to do them before doing anything else. Ended up being the fuel pump and we installed an electric for less than $90, which works much better than the OEM pumps. The dealer said it would be another $300 if he had to replace it. For $100, we saved him $800 the dealer would have charged. It cost me 1/5 to completely remain a powerhead from what it would cost you to have a dealer get one and install it. Now, if you lift the cover and everything under it looks like something from another planet, then yes, you would be better off getting it done at the dealer.

If you epoxy it in the sump area in the rear where the bilge pump and drain hole is, it should work just fine. You can even put the skimmer Xducer there but I would get the round, puck style designed to go on the bottom of the TM. A quick check can be made by making a small mound with putty or something, filling it with water, place the Xducer in it, and place something on it to hold it down. If it works to you likings, epoxy it in place.

Well, if your dad had already had it checked and they said it had a bad sensor coil, why didn't you replace it first if you were going to just start swapping parts. The timer base (where the sensor coil is mounted) controls the spark timing. The stator has a charge coil that generates the intial voltage and feeds it to the power pack, the power pack amplifies that voltage to approx 275 Peak Volts, (nead special Peak Volt meter to test this) and feeds it to the coils, the coils increase it to several KV to fire the plugs. The sensor coil in the timer base tells the power pack when to fire each coil. If it's bad, the power pack never gets the signal to fire. A quick check it to disconnect wires on terminals 6 and 7 of the power pack. Connect an ohm meter between the two wires you took off and they should read 30 - 50 ohms.

I would do the carb first but there is also another problem common on the 25 merc's. The gasket between the reed block and intake leaks. When this happen's there is no way to make it idle. If you don't want to pull the carb twice, might go ahead and get the gaskets to replace the reed block gasket.

All those places sell it around here. I was in a little VW repair shop the other day and they even had it on their counter for sale. Stabil is not the same stuff and I've never used it so can't comment on it. Yes, SeaFoam also works as a fuel stabalizer but it does a whole lot more than just that.

Sharkbite, sometimes dealers try to give you a lot of grief if you are not running the OEM recommended oil if you need warrenty work done. As for generic synthetics, I've used Penzoil 100% Synthetic just about since they came out with it and have never had any oil related problems and the motors always look good when I tear them down. I just pulled one down I built four yeas ago for a guy that had almost 400 hours on it and he had never decarbed it. There was very little carbon on the piston and very little signs of wear. This was a motor modified to make over 300 hp and was turning 6,500 rpm most of it's life. I also adding SeaFoam is a wise investment. I run it in everything, even my fuel injected truck and van every few tank fulls. You can get it at almost any parts store.

I use synthetic in everything but my DFI motor, for that I run manufactors recommended. I would give it one serious decarbing first, since that's something most people don't seem to do and should be done every 50 hours. Synthetics help keep carb buildup to a minimum.

Did that include doing the diamond pattern because I would have thought it would have been a little higher if they were going to duplicate what you have. I do my own because it had gotten so expensive to have it done. I've restored a number of cars and boats over the years so I bought me a used, commercial, walking foot, machine years ago. It has paid for itself many, many times over. $100 worth of material and some stainless staples is all that's needed.

When the button is out the two wires should read open with an ohm meter. One wire should go to engine (ground), the other to the ignition system. When you press it in it grounds the ignition to kill the motor.

As for the different color lower unit, that's probably the Lightning gear case that came standard on many of them. The come more to a point than the standard gear case and the water pickups are lower. As for the motor, the injectors are very sensitive to old gas. Each injector is it's own high frequency pump developing approx 700 psi. Old fuel can cause the injector to pump slower. This leans the cylinder and melts the piston. Running SeaFoam is a wise thing to do with that motor.

Exscuze me, Since I can't spell and only have 45 years outboard experience I should've known better than try to offer any suggestions anyway. Ya'll have a good day. I'll leave it to the experts.

If you have any mechanical since, you should have no problem with the fuel pump. I like that comment about finding the problem before throwing money at it. First you would put a primer bulb on it!!!!! That's throwing money at it. 99% chance their is nothing wrong with the bulb. Doubt there is anything wrong with the lines unless they are hard and brittle. Filter needs to be replaced a couple of times a year if run much with this crap we're getting for gas so that's not throwing money at it. I would say it's about a 80% probability it's the fuel pump. Dirty carbs/sticking float can cause similar symthoms but do the pump first.

Never have and never will turn one off when I pull the TM out of the water. I turn mine on the first time I drop the TM in the water and it stays on until I turn the main power switch off at the ramp to load the boat.

On the helm, you can order the parts for about $10 and do that yourself. Should be able to just pull the steering wheel and gain access to the helm. There should be three screws holding a washer in the center of it. Take the three screws out, pick the seals out, put the new ones in and put it back together. Is it sucking the primer bulb in so it's collapsed? If so, you have a restriction between it and the tank. The antisiphon valve at the tank, (the fitting the fuel line connects to) could be causing a problem. If not, I would do the stuff your doing but I would also get a fuel pump overhaul kit. My first guess would be the fuel pump needs to be rebuilt. They have some regular carbon steel parts in them and moisture gives them hell. Done seen that too many times.

Now folks, unless you've have driven or had a ride in an Allison, don't start assuming because they are extreamly fast, they are going to ride rough. The hull design of the Allison has such a deep V, even weighing less than 1,000 pounds, they ride and handle rough water extremely well. I personnaly have never owned one (not saying I wouldn't love to have one) but have riden in a couple and I'm the type speed freak that would never be satisfied with the speed. I had a friends running 107 before he lost his job, needed money and the boat had to go.

It would take a top named Pro to give one of those hydro rockets enough exposure to make it worth while for them to sponsor one. Then I don't think you could give one to a top name pro to fish out of it day in and day out. Storage ain't the best, Allison's actually handle rough water fairly well, but a Bullet is like being in a jon boat. I've never been in a Gambler so I can't comment on it. One point being over looked also is the fact that usually these boats are very load sensitive. Get a Pro's full tourney load, full live well and limit the HP to 250, they are not that much faster. Dang sure not enough to offset how how bad they are going to beat you up day in and day out. If you spent 270 days a year working and dang near living in automobile, would you rathen spend it in a Corvette, or a Cadilac.

If you use the search function, type in Optima batteries and just go back about a year, I think you will find enough comments on this subject between then and now to give you a couple of hours of reading.

Hey, I know the Dual Pro is a good charger, never said it wasn't. I said I like the PT 300. The newer Dual Pro, Pro series 3 bank charger with 15 amps per bank is the only charger they make that even begins to compare. I don't like their technology, I wouldn't have one of those cheaper Sportsman series charger but with most mindsets, that's probably the "Best" charger going for many of ya'll. I also said there is really no such thing as a "best" charger, the best charger is the charger that meets the person needs, at the price they want to pay. Almost everybody buys what they think is the "Best" and usually is for them. Don't get you pannies in a bunch just because I don't think the Dual Pro is the best and gave the reason why. I thought that was the reason for the pole. As for how fast do I need to charge my batteries, I guess a whole lot quicker than you. You see, when I go fishing for the weekend, I go fishing. During the winter, chasing schooling largemouths, hybrids and stripers I may be running my motor on high for hours. When we stop, it's only for a few hours and back on the lake that afternoon. When the water starts to warm and the night bite comes in, it's a 100 mile drive to the lake and I get to their close to dark on friday, fish sometimes to 2 - 3 AM, and if the bite is good may fish all night. We get a few hours sleep (if we didn't fish all night) and back on the water by day break and fish til 2 - 3 PM, get a little rest and back on the water a couple of hours before dark and fish into the night again. When fishing at nite, there a lots of times my trolling motor rarely quits running. When we take breaks it's usually no more than four or five hours from the time we are off the lake til we are back on it so I want a charger that can fully charge my batteries during the breaks. I have come in many times when the TM batteries were down to 30% and fully charged when I leave four hours later heading back to the ramp. Now, other than the DP Pro 45 amp model, tell me another charger you think will keep my batteries charged and as I said, I didn't want their way of battery maintenance or the extra 12 pounds and I don't have the room to mount their charger flat on the floor in the battery compartment. Mine mounts on the side real nicely. Also, before anyone starts on charging the battery TOO FAST, learn something about batteries so you know what you're talking about and not what you think. I can assure you, if you think it's damaging batteries discharged to 30% to charge them in 3 - 3 1/2 hours you don't know. Yea, the discharging to 30% reduces the cycle count but not the charging. I do know a little bit about batteries and chargers. A couple of years ago I got into on of these "discussions" with someone that thought they knew. I had a friend of mine that happens to also know a little about batteries post on here to clear up a lot of miss information that was being posted. That friend also happened to be Chief Engineer for one of the battery manufactors.

A few years ago I bought one like that, mainly for the 9.9 motor that was on it. When I picked it up, I took the motor off the boat, the boat off the trailer, told him he could keep the boat, and I went home with the motor and trailer. I wanted nothing to do with the boat.

Ok, lets get technical. First off, if you did happen to someway have a totally dead battery connected with two fully charged batteries, it would only charge at the 30 amp rate during the fast charge phase of the charge cycle until it reached 14.6 volts, the absortion phase. While not the greatest thing for the battery there is no significant damage to the battery, because a battery can be charged much harder during the intial fast charge phase, it just has to be reduced when it reaches 80% charge. Once it reached 14.6 volts, it only charges at a rate to maintain 14.6 volts so the closer the battery gets to full charge, the current is going to be reduced because it internal resisantance to the charger is going to be much higher. As for your point about Exide recommending 14.4 volts, that's one of the few I've seen using 14.4 for flooded cell batteries. Most recommend 14.6 and 14.6 is the average. Trojan actually recommends 14.8 volts. As for charge rates, the industry standard is 10% of the 20 hour amp hour capacity, so if it's a 130 Ah battery @ 20hr rate, it will charge at 13 amps. Show me where any Dual Pro charger is current limiting other than to it's max rated capacity so a 15 amp bank knows to only charge a 80 Ah group 24 at 8 amps. Actually any onboard charger built as far as that goes. Now, what about the battery maintenance mode. The recommended is a float voltage of 13.2 - 13.6 volts, depending on whose battery you are looking at. Unless Dual Pro has made changes I don't know about, (I haven't used one in a few years and they don't readily advertise theirs), that ain't gonna happen. The last I know of, theirs cuts off and turns back on when the battery reaches a certain discharged state. Sorry, but that's not what I want. Oh, and physical size. I'm sorry but not sure about that one either. I don't have the specs by I don't think my PT 300 has any larger of a foot print than a Dual Pro three bank Pro model and is only about three inches high, weighs less than 10 pounds and can be mounted sidewasy on a side panel, well out of the way. Do that with a Dual Pro. I looked up the specs. PT 300 is 3" lower, 3/8" longer, 1" wider and 12 pounds lighter.