Way2slow

gm4511 said the first thing I would check. Put a four foot straight edge on both sides of pad. Start at the bottom of the V with a couple inches sticking out the back and move it out to see if there's a hook and how much if there is. (a hook is section of the hull that's above the straight edge. Next I would see if I could get my hands on a different prop, preferable a stainless, to try. You might also try lowering the motor one or two holes. If the motor is too high, it can't maintain the leverage needed to hold the bow up. Dropping it down will help create more leverage. My 20 Javelin would drop the bow at WOT if the prop wasn't at least 5" below the pad. Another option is to have a prop custom tuned for that boat with some extra stern lift added. I have no idea who a good tuner is, Bob Lipton used to do mine but that was more than a few years ago. Don't know if he is still around or not.

Oh, I use paypal and my paypal goes to my American Express for double insurance. I've had a couple of serious issues with Paypal and AmEx has always protected me. Paypal and ebay are usually very good about the nickel and dime purchases but they both can try to screw you when there's a few dollars involved. Been through that a couple of times. That's why I have the money coming from AmEx. They don't screw around with them, they get your money. So far that has always been the case.

I've been asking around for almost 10 years for a crankshaft for a 1996 Evinrude 130hp V4. The couple I have found were either junk or more than I was willing to pay. Because of the fact, they are very easily ruined from rust or engine damage, and unlike an automobile crank, they can't be ground and and undersized bearings installed and there is no reliable repair for one, I have never bought an outboard crank that I could not physically inspect first. I've seen numbers of them on ebay at some stupid price or when you looked at them, they were junk. The other day I happen to see one with advertised for $200 with free shipping and the part number of the one I've been looking for. I looked closely at the pictures he had posted and the journals looked good, Soooo, for the first time, I decided to take a chance and ordered it. Got it today. It was not the crank he had pictured and was not even the part number it was supposed to be. Not sure what it came out of but it was about half the size of the part number it was listed to be. This is a pick of the crank I sent the guy, sitting in the block it was listed to fit. He say's he will ship another monday, have no I idea what that one might be.

I would just put up signs stating that vehicles with trailers over 12ft or so, (I'm sure you have U-Hauls and small campers) will be allowed to park in the lot without prior approval. All violator's will be towed at owners expense. Of course, I don't many that can tow a dually king cab with 25ft of boat trailer behind it. I'm sure most with $100,000 worth of boat and vehicle wouldn't think twice about a $100 fine. I'm sure it would make them mad, but they would just blow it off and park there anyway. A friend of mine used to own a motel/Inn in Thomson Ga, and he finally banned boat trailers in his lot because of the same thing. A handful of tournament people would totally shut his place down from any other guest getting in or out, and drops cords across the walk and lot. He didn't care if he never had another fisherman there.

Like I said, she decided to do this without my knowing it. I didn't even know she had signed a contract until I told her since it was not going into litigation, and her share was going to be so little, she might be able to get the lawyer to drop his fee to 30% or so, so she would get at least a little bit. When she talked to him about that, was when I found out about the contract she had signed with the first lawyer for 45%. Since she had signed a contract with the first lawyer, his hands were tied. Anything he cut on his would go to the first lawyer. Needless to say I was just a little P***d when I found out she had done that. I knew 33-35% was the norm if they didn't have to go to court with it is why I was telling her she might get him to give he a small discount since her share was almost nothing. It ended up being a very simple case and his secretary did 99% of it, Then I find out about that stupid contract the first crook had her sign. Knowing that was just going to be totally free money for him. You have planted a seed though, I think I will see if that first lawyer could do what he did. However, it was her that made the dealing and he may have told her up front he didn't handle those personally and had a representative that would be handling it for her. My wife get's these all knowing attitudes and anything I say to her means nothing. A bum on the street can tell her something and that would over ride anything I said.

I used one back when I was working. The company I was working for was having financial problems and wanted me to cut my hours, and cut my pay. Plus they wanted me to start being very dishonest with my billings to the customer to greatly increase the bill totals. When I went to work for them, I had a contract that I would be paid for 40 hours per week, no matter the hours actually worked. Some times that may have been 30, other times it might be 70, but I was guaranteed 40. I was to start at $26 per hour and a 5% annual increase on the anniversary date. I was with them for 7 years. I told them I was not cutting my pay, and was not going to start lying on my billings. Naturally, they finally let me go, but lied to unemployment to try and keep from having to pay it. I hired a lawyer, said it would probably run between $650 and $750 to fight them. I won the suit, and he handed me a bill for $1,900. $900 for doing telephone interview with the character references I had supplied. Several of them said he stayed on the phone over a 1/2 hour just BSing. His secretary was sending me some kind of papers that really meant nothing every few days. He was billing me $125 for each of those.

My wife had an incident about a year ago, where she slipped in a big puddle of goo that was running out of the trash can in one of the big burger chains. She had to go to an emergency care clinic, where they said she had jammed and hyper extended her thumb and severely bruised her hip. Tricare wanted an a statement from them because of our insurance and they made out like it never happened and blew her off and lied about giving it to her at the time of the incident. When my wife looked in the envelope they had given her, what they gave her was a piece of paper saying the wasn't charging her for the meal. After months of rehab, surgery, and physical therapy, she got tired of trying to deal with them and talked to a well known personal injury lawyer in the area. He agreed she had a strong case so she signed a contract with him to handle the case. This was all her doings without me knowing until after the fact. After all was said and done, the lawyer that had her sign a contract, didn't even deal with those types of small suits. He farmed it out to another lawyer that did, rather than just tell her he didn't do those cases and refer her to one that did. Naturally, the insurance had to be reimbursed for everything they had to pay. Even though the first lawyer did nothing but get her name on a contract, he got 16% for doing nothing. The Lawyer that made and settled the case got his 35% and $1000 worth of filing fees. Both of which were off the gross settlement. The insurance companies got all their money back plus a couple thousand extra, because they charged her for any medical care she had during that time, much of which was not even associated with that injury. When it was all said and done, my wife that had all the pain and suffering got reimbursed mileage and travel expenses she claimed for all the appointment trips and enough to buy her a couple more burgers. Her logic was, that's a few dollars more than she would have had if she had not made the suit. My logic was I would have never messed with it just to make put bunch of easy money in the lawyers and insurance companies pockets. The aggravation she went through getting all the documentation and paper work they wanted wasn't worth it.

Yes, it's cubic feet, I didn't even notice I had been typing Square feet. Kinda hard to get any meaning in volume out of a square foot.

Just curious, how were they tested? If the AC voltages (the stator is an AC output) going into the rectifier, was not checked, it was not tested. If it was, I guess I missed that. Hopefully it was the stator. Good luck with it. Just a little note, anybody can work on something for an endless amount of time. Being able to actually trouble shoot and fix something is a totally different skill set. I see I'm rubbing a porky pine the wrong way, sorry.

I meant, one cubic foot has a flotation value of 60 pounds (it will keep 60 pounds afloat), not one qubic foot weighs 60 pounds Depending on the density rating, 2 pounds, 4 pounds, etc, is how much it weighs per cubic foot (I think it's based on per qubic foot) Also based on the density rating is how much it will float per cubic foot.

Buy enough parts to throw at it and eventually you might find the problem. I guess the concept of trouble shooting parts before replacing them doesn't work. Never saw where an output voltage check of the stator was very looked at, or even a resistance check, which is not as reliable as voltage check. I see a whole lot more blown rectifiers than bad stators and it's more than simple enough to check the stator voltage to the rectifier. Rectifiers are usually blown by shorts and arc's, like when connecting jumper cables etc. Stators are usually blown by running bad batteries. Then never fully charge so the stator is running at max all the time until it finally overheats and burns out. A good one is usually and nice reddish copper color, bad ones are usually burned black. There are rare times a wire just opens but they are normally burned. Stators are not cheap. I guess I'm too old fashion, I like being fairly confident a part is bad through trouble shooting and isolating it to the part before I go through the trouble and expense of replacing it.

Be surprised. Figure an average of 60lbs per square foot of foam, that one piece looks like it has several square feet in it.

I think it's a coastguard requirement water craft have enough flotation foam in then to keep them from sinking. If not, it's still a pretty good idea to have it. They can be standing on end, but they have to float. That's so if it does capsize or something, the occupant will still have something that floats they can hang onto. If that piece will fit the new seat, I would just glue it back in. Closed cell flotation foam is kind of expensive and a bit tricky to work with. You only have a few seconds from the time you mix it until it starts expanding at almost a 10:1 ratio if it's warm. If you put more than the space will hold, it makes the space bigger.

Lets see, a ebay carb cost approx $15 that fits, but may or may not work. An ebay kit cost approx $15 that may or may not fit, and still may or may not work. It takes 15-30 minutes the swap out the carbs. It takes an hour or so to remove, clean and reinstall the carb, that may or may not work. I know which one I would do, but when I'm sure it's the right carb, I turn around and reorder a second for next year. I keep a spare ebay carb for every chain saw, weed eater, tiller, push mower etc I have. They don't have one of those cheap ones for my Gravely Zero turn or I would have one for it too.

OK, my last post. Enough other experts in hear to take care of the problems. Like I said, you can shotgun it all day long and hope you finally find that magic fix, or you can go through a logical sequence of trouble shooting procedures and find what the problem is. If you are not mechanical enough to know what or how to go through that logical sequence, then you need to find a professional mechanic that is, but just doing stuff or swapping out stuff in some random order is not the way to trouble shoot the problem. As for just swapping out fuel hose, unless you are buying a high quality, major brand, to replace what you have with, you could be putting on new hose that's worse than the old stuff you took off, and if you use that grey stuff you get in a kit from walmart, that's is about the worse stuff you can buy, unless you want to replace it every couple of years. The very first thing is the check the compression, 10% or more difference between cylinders is considered a motor on the verge of needing rebuilt. Sometimes a good decarb will help that. Then you want to read the plugs and see what they tell you. They are a key indicator of many problems. If you have thrown the old plugs away, the new plugs my not have colored up yet. Understanding the basics and following those is the key. Running is easy if you know how to walk, but first you have to learn how to walk, Good Luck.

E-rude dude, you commented on something, I made an assumption on he had already done. making sure it was running on both cylinders, but I'm sure you have heard what assumptions do. Livemusic, I hope you have done that, but if you haven't, That's the very first thing you need to do. You mentioned you replaced the plugs because they looked bad. When it starts up and dies, have you pulled the plugs and made sure it was running on both cylinders. If one is wet or has no color it's not running on that cylinder. You always start with the basics, Ignition Fuel, and Air. Start with making sure both cylinders have good compression, then make sure they both have good ignition, at the proper time. Without those, fuel delivery does nothing.

Some lawn more carbs are the hardest. A lot of carbs have small dome disk in them that have to be penned in, covering joints were they had to make holes from two directions. The only way to properly clean them is to take that disk out, that can be a challenge, and getting the new one back in so it doesn't leak can be a bigger challenge. Some carbs have the intermediate orifices in another removeable jet behind the main jet or in another passage off to the side, that has to come out. Do that one wrong, or somebody else didn't do it right, I might not come out, making it impossible to clean. That means getting a replacement carb. You have to know where and what orifices you are looking for and what they do. For what a boat motor cost these day, and how temperamental they can be, that's not where I would suggest getting into carburetor 101. Then with a multi-carb setup, you've got to know how to balance them. I will say, it's not uncommon for the fuel to evaporate out and leave that lacquer build up in the bowl, and since a lot of time the main jet is at the bottom of the bowl on a lot of them, it get plugged also. If the bowls have large headed brass screws, you can take out, those are usually access plugs for the mains, so all it have to do is screw the main out, clean it and put it back in. Might even be able to use a tooth pick or sharpened wooden skewer and spin around in the jet and clean it. However if the layer of crud is deep enough, it's going to plug more than just the main.

Like J Francho said, if you don't have the skill set to fix it yourself. Your only option is a mechanic. Also remember, if they are a whole lot cheaper than most of the others, there is a reason. A good mechanic, that has to do it for a living is not going to work nothing. I've been retired since 2011 and still have some of my old customers call me sob stories about how they have done paid a fortune to get a piece of equipment fixed, and it's still not working, and if I would come a fix it for them. A couple I do, because I still depend on them of certain favors from time to time, but most, I tell them, "sorry". I have this thing, I consider a favor owed by the right person is a whole lot more valuable than money. Without being able to diagnose other fuel delivery problems, carbs are the most common cause of the problem you have having. Next would be the fuel pump and other associated items. With that said, I do not advocate anyone that does not have a good understanding of how a carburetor works, what to look for and how to clean one to even think about trying. Carbs control the fuel air mixture, if it's not right, they either don't let it run, flood it out, or lean it out and melt pistons.

Can't really blame you there. It would give me cold chills to even think about having to trust a mechanic, of any kind. I've been doing this stuff for over 60 years and in that, I can just about count on one hand those I've come across that I would consider a "good" mechanic. The only way so many of the know how to diagnose a problem is to stick a new part in and see if that fixes it. If that doesn't then another part goes until the find the one that fixes it. However, you still get stuck with the bill for all the other parts, because it was a chain reaction situation that caused all the other parts to be bad also. Not even going to mention finding an honest mechanic, they are almost an extinct breed in todays economy. There is no such thing as a five minute simple fix replacing a blown fuse, fixing a broken wire, or tightening something loose, unless it was a warranty repair. However, at the same time, I've seen soooo many people turn a simple fix into a major repair, trying to fix it them self

OK, that's sound a little better, but you still don't won't to be slamming it in gear if the rpm's are above 800 rpm, even at that you get a pretty good clunk. Take one of the fuel line off a carburetor, pump the primer bulb and see if you are getting a good, unrestricted flow out of the line. If so, leave the line off and crank the motor over some and see if you get a good fuel pulse. It will be in pulses because it only pumps fuel when the piston the fuel pump is connected to is on the down stroke. It should make pretty good squirt and not just a mere trickle. If you are getting just a trickle or no fuel at all, the fuel pump is not working or not getting fuel to it. So, you need to chase that rabbit and find out why it's not giving a pulse of fuel. If you are getting a good pulse of fuel, it's time to take the carburetors off.

Unless you have a good, spare lower unit laying around, DO NOT be slapping in gear at high rpm. If you don't know what you are doing or how to trouble shoot the problem, taking it to a shop for repair is going to be cheaper than replacing the lower unit. It seems very obvious you have a fuel delivery problem. If you want to shotgun the problem (do something and hope it works) the most logical place to start it doing a proper cleaning and rebuilding the carburetors. That only works if you know how, just taking one apart and cleaning it out is not how. All the orifices, and there are several, have to be cleaned and check individually. However, if you think revving one up and slamming it in gear is ok, I have serious doubts about you having the mechanical knowledge to clean and adjust the carburetors. I'm not trying to be ugly or sarcastic, but that's about one of the dumbest things I've heard. Even if you get it going down the lake with dirty carbs, it can lean the motor out and melt a piston.

I just recently cleaned 20 years of Lake Sinclair crud off one of my aluminum pontoons with the Purple Power Aluminum cleaner to see how it would do because of how cheap it is. The things are almost black from the water line down and ugly from the water line up. Yes, it cleaned the crap out of them, for how cheap it was, I was very surprised. Now, it's going to leave the aluminum fairly bright, but it's going to be a flat aluminum, by no means will it be shinny. Sanding it with 600 grit paper and not even polishing it would make it shine a lot more. Like many of the aluminum cleaners, it is a Muriatic Acid base, which means it also eats aluminum, so the there is no way for it to leave a shinny surface, since it's actually etching the surface off of it. If you want it to shine like a truckers set of polished fuel tanks, it's not going to be anywhere near that. There is a world of difference between a polished shine and the surface you will get with any Muriatic Acid based cleaner.

WRB, my/our generation is why they still have a flasher display in these high dollar LCD units today. It wasn't until several years ago, when I went with the Lowrance HDS system that I took the flasher out of my console in installed the HDS-5, because it had mapping I haven't done the research or testing these newer graphing units but the it wasn't that long ago, if you was running 40-50 mph down the lake, by the time the graphing unit got it on the screen, it could be a long way behind you, if it would even show anything at all. The Lowrance flasher I had in mounted in the center of my instrument panel would still give me a fairly accurate bottom depth track up to about 60 mph, the early graphs would quite giving bottom track at 20-25. If you knew how to read the flasher, which after 50 years of using one, I didn't have a problem with that, they still give you a very accurate presentation of what under the boat, it just does not have a history past the initial target contact like the LCD units do, so if you are not looking at it, you will miss it. With the LCD, you can just glance down at it from time to time and see what you missed.

I've been using Spray Nine since about 1970. It's about the best all purpose cleaner/degreaser I've come across. When I was in the Air Force, it was hard to find in a lot of areas, so we ordered it five cases at the time from the manufacture. That was the minimum they would ship. Check Home Depots cleaning supplies, if they are not out, they carry it. The problem is, it's about 99.5% effective antibacterial so they are out of it a lot. Kroger's and some other large chains carry it. It's in a white bottle with yellow label. Just be careful on some painted surfaces that have cheap paint, it will may take some of it off. The white lettering cars us on the plastic/rubber knob, it can melt some of those also, but it cleans the crap out of the goo buildup on the steering wheels and arm rest. I was everything, if your batteries have caps, just be careful you don't blow the caps off, which shouldn't be a problem if they fit tight. If the oil tank is in there, be a little careful around the top of it. Gas tank should only have one hole and that's outside where you put gas in it. If the spout is on the inside, put a heavy plastic bag, like a ziplock freezer, over it and tape it down. My pressure washer is 3,600 PSI @ 4.0 GPM, so it doesn't play around. Get it too close and it can rip wood up. It also does a great job on vinyl, but don't put it on your boat seat. Marine vinyl has a UV protective film on it that strong cleaners can take off. Loosing your UV guard layer.

Usually, the neutral safety switch goes to starter and the motor won't crank over when it's not closed. The first thing I do when it won't crank, is to work the shifter back and forth a couple of times and wiggle it in the neutral position when it won't crank. The kill switch will let it crank, but it won't start/run when it's in the kill position. No crank problems are a whole lot easier to trouble shoot than not start problems.