Way2slow

you have a serious problem it what you posted is fact. You are running a counter rotating motor and the boat is not setup for that. The prop should be spinning clockwise in forward gear and the trim tab should be turn so the rear edge of it is to the right. If you look at it, you will see a built in curve to the right until you get a neutral steer with the boat up on plane and trimmed properly. The natural torque of the prop wants to push the motor in a way that makes the boat want's to go to the right and the trim is just to fine tune that. It will not correct an improper setup. One of the major causes of hard steer in one direction is the motor is not trimmed up properly, making the hull plow through the water, cause way too much drag. Another thing that can cause it is a hook in the hull, usually caused by a trailer with center rollers and one of the rollers is up too high, which over time causes permanent damage to the hull. If the motor is too deep in the water, that can cause hard steering torque.

The helm on your boat probably has a 3/4" or 7/8" tapered shaft. If the wheel you have has a tapper, then it's just a matter of making sure they are the same size tapper. As mentioned, normally you can get your thighs in behind the steering wheel to force out on it and give it a good smack with a hammer and punch as mentioned and it will pop off.

A word of advice, unless you know you are going to be fishing an electric only lake, plan on getting you a 25hp motor. 25 is the size I would recommend on that size boat. Much smaller on that size boat and you have one or two people and gear, it's not going to perform very well. A 9.9 will push it, but you will be surprised how slow a 9.9 seems on a bigger lake. You could just do like me, I have a 4hp, 9.9hp, and a 25hp I use un my 1436, depending on where I'm going to be fishing. Once you start using the boat and enjoying it, you will most likely want to go to a gas motor also. That opens up a whole new world on larger lakes. With that in mind, do some research on Used 25's in your area and see what's mostly available, that might help you decide. Now, if you feel you would bite the big one and buy a new motor "when" you do decide to add a gas motor, then it doesn't matter.

I'm wondering that myself. I guess that extra 5" had some type of magical flotation cell in it. The only reason I would get a 15" transom if there was an option was if I already had a short motor to put on it. Another thing to remember, if you plan to pick up a used motor, I think the smaller motors are more common in short shaft than in long shaft. Once you get above 25hp, then that trend seems to reverse. For years you didn't have the option, it seems most boats 15' or shorter had 15" transoms and 16' and longer had 20" transom

I also have my routine, and normally screw mine before leaving, but things can happen when you get out of routine. That time, I didn't go through my normal routine because I wasn't going fishing and didn't need to prep the boat. I just jumped in the truck and headed to the ramp

Don't worry, next time you can take pictures. I've been boating since the early 60's and have left it out a few times. The drain plug in my Javelin is a screw-in with a short tether that keeps it in the hole when unscrewed. A few years ago I was going to see a friend that was camping on the lake I mainly fish. It was about five miles by water and 40 miles by road so I dropped the boat in and went by water. I was there about 20 minutes, came back and loaded the boat. I always take the plug out before I leave the ramp. When I went back to take it out, I found I had never screwed it in. Luckily, the tether holding it let the plug fill the hole so water didn't rush in when stopped or it would have sank at his camp site, the water there was deep.

If referring to the setback, the distance the jackplate holds the motor away from the back of the boat, there is a little math I use for that. Measure from the back of the pad to the leading edge of the motor. Level the pad using the tongue jack, set the level on the anti-cav plate and level the motor with the trim. Measure from the drain plug to the motor. I generally like 1.25 to 1.5 inches per foot of boat length. If the hull is still under warranty, most manufactures have a max set back you are allowed or it will void their warranty so be sure to check. Most boats have a built in set back, the jack plate just adds to it.

I've never had any dealings with a CMC, all mine have been Bob's so can't comment. On a bass boat, I've never used more than about 6" of travel. The Flats boat has a really deep tunnel and to raise the motor up high enough to run in a few inches of water it takes about 9" of travel to run shallow and then drop it down enough for a strong hole shot, depending on the prop it has on it.

If it's flat all the way across and there is enough room between the gunwalls to fit the new seats you could probably use a piece with exterior glue to make a platform. As you know, the gas tank being under there, you need to use extreme caution fastening it in. If you put a hole in that tank with a drill or screw, it's not just going to ruin your day, it's going to ruin your whole year. Some of those tanks can only be removed by taking the cap off.

Understand one thing, no matter what motor you get, you are still going to move around like a slug if you intend to fish more than a couple of hours. There is no 12V motor you can connect just one battery to and go zipping around at full thrust for very long, maybe an hour to hour and a half, and on bigger motors it may only be 30-45 minutes. You will find you will need to run at a greatly reduced thrust/speed to get the battery to last for several hours. So, a 45 should be fine unless you plan to load up with several batteries. Understand also, I'm not saying you can't fish all day on one battery if you manage your thrust setting wisely. I'm just saying you can't run long at full thrust. One other thing. When selecting your TM, it will pay huge dividends in run time if you pay the extra dollars to get a TM that has the variable speed control and not one with the preset number of speeds. The electronics in the variable speed motors can let you run hours longer at reduced speeds. At full thrust it does not help run time, but if you keep it below 50%, they make a huge difference.

Load your own, center fire is always on sale then.

First, make sure the primer solenoid is functioning properly. The motor does not have a choke, it uses an electric primer solenoid to enrich the fuel to the engine for starting.

That requires using the search feature. No one seems to realize there is such a thing. Just like at least once a month there is at least one post about batteries. There is enough info posted on this site about batteries to write an encyclopedia. Which boat to buy is just another topic that pops up regularly.

deleted since you found your boat

I suspect if you shine a flashlight on the side of the tank, you can see the level, if not, shine it in the fill hole, that should make it so you can see the oil level. If not, you can always use something for a dip stick to stick in the fill hole and measure it. I just look in the fill hole and see where it looks like the level is. When it looks to be below 1/2 full, I fill it up again.

I usually wash mine once a year, whether it needs it or not. I've waxed it twice in the 10 or so years I've owned it.

OK, that makes more since.

If you reused your old thrust washer, see if Solas says it's compatible. It may be too thin or something. The only time I've seen this problem, it's been the thrust washer or loose prop. Is the length of the hub from front to back measuring through the inside of the prop the same. I had a friend using a universal prop that used different hub kits for different motors that said his made a noise if running on the hose in gear but didn't in the water. I personally wouldn't have that. I know this is not related to your problem but a 21' Triton with a 150 4 stroke that can only turn a 15p prop has to be one of the most under powered boats I've seen.

Did you put the proper thrust washer on the back. It's suppose to fit down inside the prop with the flange over the back and not move any side to side. Did you torque it.

https://www.grainger.com/product/3BY20?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&s_kwcid=AL!2966***!50916716157!!!g!104635763397!&ef_id=Wjyk_AAAAJC9OA8g:20180623194358:s Two of these, one on the TM cable, one on the battery cable. Be sure to order the ones for the size cable you will be putting them on. https://www.cabelas.com/product/Manual-Reset-Circuit-Breaker/738260.uts?productVariantId=1191210&WT.tsrc=PPC&WT.mc_id=GoogleProductAds&WT.z_mc_id1=00006831&rid=20&ds_rl=1252079&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIr5WG88bq2wIVyy-BCh1gpAr-EAQYBCABEgKCK_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds one of these to connect the battery cable to the battery (there is a bracket that mounts these directly to the battery). or one of these https://www.walmart.com/ip/VLYNX-VCB50-MinnKota-Comp-Trolling-Motor-50-Amp-Fuse-Marine-Auto-Circuit-Breaker/110353212?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=6926&adid=22222222227088525841&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=203317542631&wl4=pla-384143449167&wl5=9011203&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=115070360&wl11=online&wl12=110353212&wl13=&veh=sem. Enough of this to go from front to battery circuit breaker in back and to make jumper from breaker to battery (if you get the Minn Kota breaker) Enough of these to go on cables https://www.delcity.net/store/Straight-Copper-Lugs/p_810730.h_810732.r_IF1003?mkwid=sVCgbMf4M&crid=38094426869&mp_kw=&mp_mt=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-Kesqsnq2wIVRRuBCh0g0QA8EAQYASABEgI13PD_BwE . Crimp and solder these. Use Benzomatic torch and rosin core solder to solder These items are available at many places, I just used these for reference. the link to the 6 AWG fine wire battery/marine cable didn't show

If you have a Northern Tool store near you, they will probably have everything you need. Might want to make sure you didn't bend the spindle also, or damage a bearing.

What JFrancho is saying about Ah capacity is correct one 120Ah battery is going to have the same Ah capacity as three 120Ah batteries in series but the available power in the terms of watts is going to be more than three times that of one battery. It takes a given amount of power to move a boat at any given speed. The more hull drag from weight, design or speed is going to increase the amount of power (WATTS) needed. It takes volts X amps to make power (WATTS). Because 36 volts can deliver three times the voltage, it takes 1/3 the amperage of 12 volts. That's mean three times longer run time. However, there are several other factors that make 36 volts run much longer than a 12 volt system. First, a 24V TM is about 25% more efficient than a 12V, and a 36V is more efficient than a 24V, so there is less battery drain just from the internal characteristics of the different motors. Second, as the load increases on a battery, it's efficiency and Ah rating goes down considerably. Since a 36V systems pulls 1/3 the amps of a 12V system for the same power, battery load is greatly decreased and run time increases.

Saying a battery last a certain amount of time is wrong, does not matter if AGM or not. There are a number of factors that determine a batteries life and that is figured in cycle count, not time. Cycle count is the number of times a battery can be discharged and charged. Now, AGM's generally have a higher cycle count than flooded cells when it comes to TM batteries. This means if you have a battery capable of 500 cycles, you theoretically could get 10 years using it 50 times a year, but over time cell degradation from age will reduce that. The first thing is the charger. Not all chargers are equal and how they charge the battery has a direct affect on battery life. Good chargers are not cheap, and not all so called good chargers are really that good, just well advertised. Then the public mind set. I think a $300, three bank on board charger is a cheap charger and usually barely suitable, others think that's expensive and want a $100 thing that's close to useless and not suited for properly charging most any TM battery. Iwill say, you can use a smaller charger on AGM batteries because they don't require gassing like flooded cells, but then most cheap chargers don't have the electronics to properly charge AGM's. Battery construction plays a large roll in how long they last. The alloy used and how the plates are constructed, plus how the battery is constructed. The discharge level plays a huge roll in cycle count. If you have huge, high amp hour batteries, bur only use them a few hours so they are still at 75% charge when done, the cycle count is very high. If you use smaller batteries or use the crap out of the so they are only at 25% charge when done, the cycle count goes way down. You might get 500 cycles at 75% and 200 at 25%. Then you have the general maintenance, how/when you charge your batteries. Let them sit for 24 hours below 80% charge and the are going to sulfate, reducing the batteries capacity. Let it sit a month in a discharged state and it can become almost useless. Manufactures have many things to consider when making a battery for the general public, and cost is one of the key items. If the battery is too good, they can't sell enough and cost goes very high. The average Joe Blow either can't afford or won't buy them. So, they have to reduce quality enough to keep it useable within reason and cheap enough to keep their sales up. Then they have size constraints where they have to pack a lot of ump in a fairly small package. Look at industrial flooded cell batteries, they can last eight to ten years being discharged and charged every day, but can weigh hundreds of pounds or tons, and need several cubic feet of room.

I can ride it and it cuts the grass, but it's seldom I have to use it. My neighbor has a land scape and tree removal business. I help him with keeping his equipment going, he keeps my grass cut. It also helps when I need a backhoe, front end loader, dump truck etc. I have them at my free use.

They were done back in Feb. Those get done every year, even with the bearing buddies on them