Way2slow

As mentioned, coming out the back is a bad seal, coming out the front, it's too much grease. Only put enough grease to cause the fitting cup to lift and float a little, no more. A set of bra's help keep it contained. Another recommended action, if you tow very far, when you get to the ramp, give them enough to float the fitting cup. That way when it hit's the cold water and all the warm grease contracts, it won't pull water in. If you grease them cold, the friction heat causes expansion and greatly increase the problem of pushing grease out.

I would make the same suggestion I make to anyone, even myself about picking a handgun. Most of the larger indoor ranges have a large assortment of the popular make and models in a number of different calibers for rent. I know of one local range that lets LE come in and try a clip or two of any one they want for free. I've seen several that all they had to do was buy the ammo and they would let them try any gun they wanted for free. They fully support their LE personnel. Even if he had to rent the gun, it's only a few bucks. So, go to a range, and start trying and shooting until a firm decision can be made.

If it was not pulled out, drained/flushed, oil changed etc, and started immediately, it's probably only worth scrap value. It only takes a small amount of rust on machined wear surfaces to make the motor need a total rebuild and a new crank and rods if it got to them, and that's not cheap, actually, it more expensive than the motor would be worth. Any time a motor is submerged, it needs oil drained and changed if four stroke, the spark plugs pulled out, the motor cranked over a number of times to purge any water out of cylinders immediately, not several hours or days later. Then it needs to be started and run at fast idle, no more than 2K rpm, until it comes up to operating temp and then another 15 or 20 minutes at least.

A5Blaster, I hope you don't go to Texas like that. Personally, I don't want anything to give anyone even the idea I might even own a gun. Things like the signs people put in their yard showing a pistol and saying protected by some brand name. I have over thirty but you won't walk in my house and see one, unless you are doing something you shouldn't be and then it will only be for a second. Crooks are looking for guns to steal everyday, advertising you are a gun owner makes you a prime target. I'm also a firm believer in if you pull one, it's to use it. My verbal challenge is the bang of the gun first, followed by halt, just in case I miss, which probably ain't gonna happen. When I'm moving a gun from my house to my vehicle or vise versa, I pull my vehicle around back so it can't be seen to do it.

1/2 hour job turned into several hours and that old saying "buy cheap s**t, get cheap s**t definitely held true on the mods. First, I had a hellava job getting the role pin holding the gas tube in the gas block out, and I had the right size role pin punch but it was so small and tight, it kept bending my punch. Also, the pin being slightly smaller than the hole in the block didn't help matters any. Then the special barrel nut wrench kept slipping over the notches in the barrel nut and wouldn't break it loose. Finally had to basically destroy the barrel nut and use a pipe wrench to break it loose. It was very tight and good thing I had the received vise block to hold the receiver. The new grip came with it's own barrel nut so I wasn't concerned about having to ruin the one on the rifle. I bought one of those cheap, Chinese handguards and ended up having to clamp it in the vice rather tightly to compress the split grove that holds it and then tighten the allen screws to keep it from moving up and down a 1/4". The screws had such a soft temper on them, they wanted to round out before you could begin to get them tight. The reason for that, the front site sits out on the end of it and if it's moving up and down, don't do much good to have the sight. Also, I should mention I did at least get one with a steel barrel nut, and also, the top rail didn't match the factory rail. It was slightly lower than the receiver and also the spacing was off so you couldn't have something like a solid scope mount sitting across the joint. The slot spacing was off.

it's not the speed. Forklifts only run about 13mph but many of those have a 100 hour service interval. The wear on the drive train is considered to be equivalent approx. 3,500-4,500 miles on a car. Your boat may only run 35mph at WOT, but the same engine is still working the same as one running 70mph at WOT.

Take your Mercedes in to the dealer at the recommended service intervals and have the recommended service and see what that cost you. I used Mercedes because taking a motor to a dealer is in about the same category. I'm sure that $700 is based on the dealer servicing it and doing all the recommended and suggested maintenance. Do it yourself and just doing the general oil change, lube and visual inspection, and water pump every few years, the maintenance cost is minimal. You also have to realize, 100 hours is like 4,000-5,000 miles on a car

At least I'm south pawed and left eyed, but can shoot right about as good as left when I have to. I think that's mainly because I always shoot with both eyes open, even with optics, and do a lot of instinct shooting where I don't even use sights. Back in 1969 I bought my first and only left hand bolt action, (have over a couple dozen right hand bolts) and to this day, I can still shoot a right hand bolt faster. Never have gotten comfortable with working the LH bolt. As for the AR mods, after doing these updates, about the only thing left I would want to do is a barrel upgrade if this one proves to be not so good. I've never shot it with optics or off a steady rest for small groups so don't know what it will do for accuracy. My next AR upgrade will be a custom built AR-10 in a 260. I ordered a barrel a while back but it usually takes Krieger a long time to make one off's, so that will probably be next year.

That's why they make chocolate and vanilla ice cream, or you can get into the Ford vs Chevy debate. I'm not an AK person. I know they have way more fire power, just the difference between a 68gr (about as heavy and my 1:9 barrel will stabilize) 5.56 and 150gr (or heavier) 7.62 alone is huge, not counting the extra push behind them, but I have weapons that will provide as much "fire power" anyone could want when I feel that might be needed, and do it very accurately at a very long range.

Kinda put the cart before the horse but was wondering if we have any S&W AR owners and if you've done any mods. I bought one several years ago with they first hit the street but never really intended to use for anything. I have a couple 870's set up for home defense and way too many special purpose rifles to use it for hunting. There is tons of info on the net for upgrading and modifying the AR's but almost nothing on the S&W and I was under the impression there was a lot of proprietary stuff involved with it. When I first got it, having shot thousands upon thousands of rounds through M16's teaching special weapons tactics in the military, I didn't like the way it handled so I modified the trigger to a 3 1/2 pound pull, changed out the buffer and a few other mods so in rapid fire it recoils straight back without kicking up and added Troy flip up sights. At 50 yards, you can empty a mag in rapid fire into a 6" circle now. I recently decided to go ahead and add optics, laser, flashlight, angled foregrip etc, but that's not possible with the OEM handguard. So, I've ordered a 13.5" M-Lok, free floating handguard and low profile gas block to give me something to mount my add-ons, not knowing if the barrel nut and gas block is standard AR or some proprietary fit from S&W, and they have to be changed to free float the guard. Another fun part is I'm left handed and entertaining using a holographic site mounted at and angle beside the 1x scope. I experimented with it today (first time I've shot it in three years), seeing how that will work and the most natural way for me to roll the rifle to use the holographic site puts the ejection port upward, sending hot brass straight back at the top of my head. After Pricing left hand uppers or doing a left hand build is not in the cards for now. If any of ya'll own and have modified the M&P15 OR, any info or words of wisdom would be appreciated.

When breaking or accelerating it's under a steady pressure so it's quite. It's when you are just cruising the trailer is just kinda oscillating back and forth is when you get all the clunking and jerking. With mine, if the brakes are not completely bled, the air in the system causes excess travel of the hitch, and its gets really aggravating. Easy way to check that is to back up and force the trailer tires against a curb and apply the park break. Then use a marker and make a line on the hitch part where it moves into the tongue. Then pull forward with a couple of wedges in front of the trailer tires to make sure you get full extension, apply park brake, and see how much travel it the is on the hitch. Bleeding trailer brakes without a good pressure bleeder is not easy or fun and not uncommon to have air in them.

That would only apply if you have the solenoid. Not all surge brakes use it. Mine doesn't, you have to manually lock mine at the tongue when you want to back up. While towing, it's back there clunking and jerking constantly.

I can see using one or the other, which I prefer SeaFoam, but think using both is overkill. Actually, test have shown running high octane fuel in an 87 octane engines causes even more carbon because of the lower burn rate. The main thing is to stick with top tier gasolines. If you don't, do a net search and educate yourself on Top Tier gas. I don't even run that other off brand crud in my lawn mowers. gasolin Many years back, the military ran test on fuels and additives because of the long intervals tactical vehicles and equipment would sit unused. Following those test, it was recommended to add SeaFoam, that it would keep the fuel usable for up to one year. I guess they decided since it was just snake oil, Seafoam needed this recommendation to sell it. I would never run year old gas in my outboard no matter what additive was in it.

My swing tongue had a lot of movement/play in both directions and was very noisy/clunky. I finally got tired of it and put a stop to it. I don't use the swing joint so I drilled it the next size larger plus a couple more holes through it with a bit that perfectly fit the bolts I used (grade 8, 3/4") and bolted that sucker together solid. It's all nice and quite back there now and don't have those jerky clunks when you start and stop now. I was so fed up with it, I started to weld it but decided to make it undoable just in case the next person wanted to use the swing. Also, make sure you have the hitch latch adjusted to fit the ball so there is no movement in it. That can cause a lot of noise, and keep a dab of grease in the socket. One other thing that can cause a lot of noise it the hydraulic brakes if you have them. The tongue movement back and forth working them can get pretty noisy and sloppy.

It probably depends on the boat and size TM as much as anything. On my 20' Javelin and 80# TM, there is a noticeable difference in top speed between the two props, that's why I keep the two blade on it. I've also read reviews that claim there is no difference, and some claim the three blade is actually faster, me personally have not seen those results. You should always keep a spare prop, sheer pin and nut, buy the three or four blade and judge for yourself. I also use the four blade Ninja, it's definitely a lot slower but is the best in thicker junk.

That's what they are made for. If you fish through lily pads and grass, etc, they are golden. They are slower in open water but the only time the slowness comes into play is if you are chasing schooling fish breaking the water or using the TM to move between spots. I keep a Ninja in my boat and use it when needed, but keep the two blade on most of the time. There are only a couple of places I fish, like the St. Johns river, that needs one, and I spend most of my time fishing grass free waters, and chase a lot of schooling fish. In some areas, I don't care what prop you have, you are still going to lose a lot of religion by the end of the day.

Depends on your boat and motor knowledge. Sitting that long, as a minimum the fuel system should be flushed and cleaned, the water pump needs replaced, sitting that long it will have a pretty good set on the blades, most likely it will need new batteries, either by the seller or buyer. This could be over $1,000 if a shop has to do the work.

Somebody hasn't heard you should not dry start an outboard (that's why the tips are rolled as bad as they are) and you should change water pumps every three or four years, not every 20 - 25 years. Looks like it's still the same OEM pump in a90's -2000's JohnnyRude. That impeller has not made proper water pressure for many years.

I see right now you don't have enough projects. I couldn't get an inflatable in mine.

A little graphite based lock lube will probably make the one you have work just fine.

I would relook at how I was loading my boat if I felt I needed to go to something like a ratchet winch because there's something wrong with the process. Actually, on most boats, you would probably need to reinforce the bow loop/eye if you regularly put that much strain on it. I have loaded umpteen thousands of boats up to 22' over the past 60 years and can't say I've ever seen a need for anything other than a good rotary winch and don't even like cranking real hard on those. fishncamp; It looks like you sure didn't leave yourself much room between those tires and fenders on that trailer. That looks like a recipe for a torn up tire, unless that boat was overloaded when you took that picture. I would have to look at raising that fender a little. I suspect if you looked at the underside of that finder, it would be tire rubbed.

I owned one 15' mod-V (seems like it was a Fisher) and have fished out of a couple small Pointed Bow aluminum boats with curved bottoms. I sold the mod-V so cheap, the guy thought I was giving it to him because it was always leaning to one side or the other and you couldn't melt on of those small rounded bottom boats down and pour it on me. Years ago, a co-worker was selling a 12' "jon" with a 9.9hp Johnson for $250, and I gave him the money. When I went to get it, it was one of those pointed, rounded bottom boats. I lifted the motor off, put it in my truck, told him thank you, and drove off.

Side to side rock and reaching over the side, I would think they would be the similar but naturally the 16' is going to be a little more stable . Now the bow rise you get when alone in the boat is probably going to me much more noticeable in the 14'. Also, if you are going to install a gas motor, the 16 would allow a bigger motor, giving you the ability to get on down the lake a lot faster. (I'm like to Tool Man, always wanting more power) So, if you are not going to be fishing a lot of skinny water, are going to be trailering the boat, and going to be running a gas motor, I would recommend the 16' If you plan to try adding a deck, definitely the 16'. As for easy to handle, even a 1448 is going to be heavier than you are going to want to be manhandling.

It usually includes anything added to the hull/boat after it came out of the mold

Wow, I failed to notice the 20' Ranger part. That size boat with a 175 is going to be very easy to over trim trying to get bow lift. I would think ideal setup is going is going to be extremely difficult to achieve, and if you are like me and carry way more junk than you probably need, almost impossible. The trim is to get bow lift, good bow lift goes along with getting enough speed for the water to lift the hull out of the water, all the way to going fast enough to get it fully up on the pad (then you learn what chine walk is) Without the speed, you are depending on the motor to provide all the lift. It can only provide so much, but you keep on trimming trying get more. That's when you see boats running down the lake with the motor kicked out at extreme angles and throwing big rooster tails. Understand also though, an ideal setup is something very few achieve with most bass boats, un less it's something like a Bullet or Allison. Only the last couple of feet of the pad is in the water, the motor is trimmed almost vertical and the rooster tail no higher that the top of the motor. To achieve this, the setback is right, the engine height is right and the tune on the prop is perfect, and the person in the boat is driving the h**l out of it. As you get away from this ideal setup, the trim angle increases to compensate for the lack of speed and errors in the setup and prop. So when you get down to your power and speed the motor is working it's butt off just trying get bow lift. A properly matched prop to your hull is critical. Of course, then you start realizing why so many boats have such poor setups when you looking at the financial outlay and effort involved in seeking out that ideal setup.