Way2slow

This one might give you some info http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/archive/index.php/f-995.html

The anti-siphon valve is the barb fitting the fuel line going to the motor connects to. If you screw it out, you will see a plastic ball inside the threaded end. If you can see through it, someone has already swapped it out. I 've never worked on the fuel delivery side of my 225 Ficht so I will have to double check my comment about the fuel pumps. I had all six injectors rebuilt when I bought it about 10 years ago but that was because they were all in one of the storage boxes. Actually, other than a not firing problem I recently had, caused by the kill switch where I didn't notice the lanyard had come out, I haven't worked on mine in 10 years. The more I think about it, it's seems there is a pump that pumps the pressure up some between the lift pump and injectors. There parts web site is down so I couldn't check now.

The picture don't show, but most of the old sears had a powerhead made by Tecumseh and a lower unit it think was made by Chrysler. Parts for them are almost non existent.

Do you have the diagnostic cable and software? There is no "high pressure" fuel pump. There's a lift pump that pulls fuel from the tank, sends it through the filter to the injectors. The injectors develops the high pressure. When it starts this surging, have you tried hand pumping the primer bulb? If it won't pump you may have a bad anti-siphon valve in the tank, I've seen several of these fail. They are nothing but a check ball built into the barb fitting coming out of the tank for the fuel line. You can swap it out for just a barb fitting and see if that help. Inspect all fuel lines, if any are hard, (not counting the injector lines, they are hard) or have any cracks, they could be sucking air. If it's a fuel delivery problem, it's going to be before the injectors. Bad injectors just cause it to melt pistons. Now, there are some electrical cause also. It could be going into the lip home mode. This is to protect the motor if it's getting hot, low oil or a couple of other issues

Mine had only had eight tubes, not enough for two peoples rods unless I wanted to use both rod lockers, (mine has rod lockers on both sides) and I didn't want to do that and give up the storage space so the tubes came out. The rod socks are a must have item when the tubes come out. You only have to break one $250 rod from the tips getting tangled to learn that.

If your boat has a riser hull with pad and is fast enough to get up on it, you probably want a hotfoot. If your boat is fast enough to chine walk, you definitely want a hotfoot, or should I say, it would be kind of dumb not to have one, because you definitely want both hands on the wheel and a way to control the throttle instantly. I think with any boat that's running over 60mph it would be advisable to use a hotfoot because when you start getting up to those speeds, things can happen very quickly and you should be driving with both hands on the wheel. A 17.5 tin can with a 60, there are a ton of other things that would be much better to waste your money on. I have one, and hate them but it's a must have item in my boat, unless you don't like living or never drive full throttle. I wish they made a dual throttle system, so when you are just cruising at 45-50 mph, you could just set it where you want it, sit back, relax and enjoy the trip. You can't do that with a hotfoot, they have enough spring tension you are always having to keep a good bit a pressure on them and that gets old. About as much fun as driving cross country without cruise control in you vehicle, and you vehicle doesn't have a 20# return spring pushing back on your foot.

Like most anything else, as the cost of new increases to stupid prices, so do the value of good used.

Cotton mouths, probably one of the meanest, most territorial snakes you will ever run across. If you are night fishing, they will come to the light and if in a boat, they will try to get in it. When we go frog gigging, you always go with two people and two lights. One to look for the frogs, and one to watch for the cotton mouths. But still, if he leaves me alone, I leave him alone.

People, those are the creatures I generally don't like. Good people, those are a dying breed and becoming extinct. They are already on the endangered species list.

I think fishing has gotten too expensive, haven't even gotten on the water yet and spent close to $700. 20 gallons of gas in the boat and 26 gallons in the truck @ $2.80 a gallon and both of them luv drinking it. Plus two cans of SeaFoam in the boat since it has not been on the water for a while, I gave it a double dose. Then the line I've used re-spooling the eight reels I'm taking. Good line is getting out of sight in price. Ok, back to onboard chargers. Actually, in my honest opinion the top of the line ProMariner (used to be the Pro Tourny 300 but haven't looked lately) are the best charger for the battery and charges the batteries the fastest. It's just their quality/service life that turned me off with them. When three in a row fail just past the end of the warranty, and they can't repair a two to three year old charger because the boards are "too old" but they will allow you a small credit for the you old charger against another new one. That puts you spending $150 to $200 a year, just for a charger. If I could have only gotten five years out of one, I would probably still be using them. However, it looks like I'm spending that on new batteries every year anyway with this MK.

This link is one you will probably want to check out if you are into doing your own designs. https://jlcpcb.com/quote. Over the past five weeks, I've had five different circuit boards made by them, and they are very nicely made boards. From the time I submit the order, until DHL is handing them to me is usually about eight days. They have some kind of special going on getting the first prototypes made. You can get 10 boards made, they go into production within two days provided they pass quality review, and DHL express delivery, which is almost $19 to my location and it all cost a grand total of $2.00. Yes, that's not a typo error, it's two US dollars, total. I can't even etch one board of my own for that. Like I said, I'm having my fifth set delivered tomorrow, and every set of has been $2. When you first submit the order, it will look like they are going to charge you the shipping, but every time so far, the final billing has only been $2. They are allowing up $20 free shipping.

Sounds like you need to get the Ram Swing Arm mount. The bracket to hold it sounds like a perfect match for what you have. I use one on my HDS-10, works great. https://mounts.factoryoutletstore.com/details/476179/ram-mounts-ram-109v-1u.html?category_id=78700&catalogitemid=435956

I see that now, sorry, I guess I should have had my glasses on. Can't help you with that one. Know nothing about a Spirit. They were made by a small company in Mississippi, not Skeeter, from late 80's to 2001. I've never seen but a couple of them, and none up close. Still don't understand why the guy is representing it as a Skeeter, other than trying to pull a fast one on someone.

Sprint and Skeeter are not the same boat. Sprints were a cheap piece of junk that was only made for a few years. If he is trying to hustle a Sprint off as a Skeeter, I would walk away from that guy and not believe a word out of his mouth on anything about the boat. He might be doing that hoping some sucker will buy it because even when Sprints were new, they were hard to sell. That also seems like a premium price for a boat that age and size. If the OEM documentation says it's Sprint, it's a Sprint, anybody can put any decals they want on one, but that don't make it that brand.

Talk about sticker shock! I went to the warehouse to get my new batteries, and they were out of stock on the DC27's. I asked about DP27's, out of them also. All they had were some DC24's. I asked him about two Group 27 size AGM's, he had those so I told him I guess I will just have to get two of those, I had to have two batteries by Saturday. He sat them down near me and asked if it was cash or card. I asked how much? $520.00

Get the biggest battery you can afford in a good, name brand. If it ain't ungodly heavy and will give you a hernia to carry it , it ain't big enough.

My Javelin R20 has a threaded plug that has a flat tab that sticks up and I just screw it in and out by hand. If you are having to use a wrench, sounds like you need to replace the plug or do some work on the threads in the boat/plug. With that said, if yours has a metal plug, sounds like somebody has lost the plastic plug that goes in it and stuck a pipe plug in. A pipe plug would be totally wrong for it. It's a tapered thread and probably the wrong pitch. DO NOT try to drill the hole. Drain plugs holes are usually made by drilling a hole after the transom is made and a thin metal, usually brass, tube is inserted and crimped in. That tube is only a few thousandth of an inch thick and no where near enough metal to drill. If you try to use a tap to chase the threads in the hole to clean them up, make sure it's not cutting the hole any larger or you will be replacing the drain hole sleeve. Also, it may just be somebody forced a pipe plug into an unthreaded hole because I've never seen a jon boat with a threaded plug. Plenty of large glass boats but no small jons.

My granddaughter had a change in shift schedules and will start having three day weekends every week and looking forward the getting back to bass fishing. Getting the boat ready, the Deka DC27's I put in it last spring are toast. This is the third year in a row for the TM batteries. Deka batteries are a very good brand of battery and I've run them for more years than I can remember and never got anything but great service out of them. I doubt they changed the quality of battery they make at the same time I installed the MK charger. The float voltages are off on this charger and they are not adjustable. That was the one thing I liked about the ProMariner charger, they had a great maintenance mode, the float voltage on everyone I had was dead on 13.17 volts, and I always easily got four out of my TM batteries, and that was when I was using the a lot. Actually I really liked the ProMariner chargers when they worked, and they had a great customer service, other than the fact they didn't fix a darn thing and every three years for a new charger got old. Now, I'm not a stranger to batteries and battery maintenance. Maybe I just got one of the Monday morning for Friday afternoon chargers, but I do know that one is coming most likely coming out of my boat pretty soon. $200 every spring is getting a little old. This time it will be over $300 because it's time to replace the cranking battery Now, the cranking battery is four years old (which I will be replacing it this time, even though it still test good. Four years is the max I run one), it's just the TM batteries it seems to be having a problem with.

For several years I ran the ProMariner Pro 300's. The last ones I got would last about three years or just past the end of their warrantee. When you send them in for repair, they tell you the no longer repair the board in your model and will offer to sell you another at a discount price. Third time was the charm for me. I told them where they could stick it and went shopping for a different brand. They also make most of the BPS chargers, so I would stay away from those also. When the last ProMariner failed, I found a good deal on the MK330 Digital or something like that. Anyway, I've been running it three years and not happy with it. I haven't been using my Javelin a lot and I've had to replace the batteries in it every year. I've never had this problem before with any of the other chargers. So, this year it looks like I'm going shopping again, this time it will most likely be the Dual Pro. They've been around a long time and have a solid reputation.

Most of the old oak I've run into was about 3/4" thick and 2 1/4 to 2 1/2" wide. You can still buy that, but it's not going to have now where near the rich grain and color tones the old stuff has but you can play with the stains and make it close to a match in color but not much you can do about the grain. If it's not out where it would be a very noticeable eyesore to patch it in, usually you can make new stuff work. Since you are doing the whole floor, I think you should be able to find what you want, except for the good deal. It's been a while since I've messed with any but the last time I checked, it was running almost $3 a square foot to buy it, and about twice that to have it installed and finished, and that was a few years ago.

My wife kept telling me I needed to get checked because I would stop breathing in my sleep when I was a genuine military bad**s, playing GI Joe with the Special Forces, going through Ranger School and all kinds of classified special duty assignments. I was probably in much better shape than most people. I was a big chested guy and didn't consider myself over weight then. That's why I blew it off when she complained about it. It was not until I had retired and 57 years old before I had that sleep study done. They told me I had a severe case of it.

Pull the engine cover off, take the air silencer off the front and make sure the butter flies are fully opening when the hot foot is pressed. That's a mechanical system so something is not moving. If the fuel pump was bad and not sending enough fuel, when the throttle was pressed and butterflies opened, it would bogg down and probably cut off.

Fought with those mask and tried the nose thing for three years. In 2011 after they put a stint in my heart I decided it was time to change my life. While I was not grossly overweight for my height and bone structure I was still at 215 pounds, 6'1" and wore 36" pants, a little on the snug side. I cut out most of the fats and started eating healthier, and within a year I was down to 168 pounds and 32" waist, smaller than I was when I was 14. Finally had to modify my diet again, that eating healthy was making me loose too much weight so I threw some of my not so healthy foods back in. Now I keep it below 180 pounds and still wear a 32" waist. Since I lost the weight, I have not needed the CPAP. I have not used it since 2012. I still don't get more than four hours sleep because of joint pains and other problems but at least I don't stop breathing like I did before. By the way, they blamed the stopping breathing during my sleep for the reason I had to have the stints. My wife always said I had it for years.

Drop cords to the onboard charger. Been there, done that also, except I was not lucky enough just to pull the plug out. NOoo!!, I had to be at my sister in-law's spending the weekend. It was before daylight and I wanted to be on the water at crack of dawn because the schooling bass were very active on the surface just after sunrise. I told her son-in-law that was going with me that morning to unplug the charger while I put the drain plug in. Well, he didn't, and I drove off. Of course the cord wraps around a PCV pipe for an outdoor faucet and breaks it off. I'm half way to the lake when sister-in-laws husband calls wanting to know what we did, there was water going everywhere. So, instead of being at the lake before daybreak, I'm playing plumber.

Just wondering if I'm the only one on here that roast there own coffee beans. If there are others, and you are advanced enough to monitor/control your roast with a data logger, I might have something to give away you might be interested in.