NYBasser

Imo the 703sf is better suited for weightless senkos and t-rigs and the 702sf for ned rigs and 1/8 spinnerbaits. For reference, I regularly cast and fish 1 oz bucktails for fluke and stripers on a kaden 713sf, which is slightly heavier action wise than a fury 703sf, without an issue.

I can’t speak as to how Lund handles their warranty as I have never owned one, but my experience at Phoenix has been that if the dealer is unable to complete the warranty work, the boat goes back to the Phoenix factory to get work done. I’ve heard of multiple cases of this on the Phoenix owners page and in d**n near every case, Phoenix steps up and handles the issue at no cost to the owner. All I’m saying is that Lund has room for improvement in their Customer Service department and there are ways to do it instead of just giving the blanket excuse that “every boat company has unhappy customers”. A simple google search of “lund customer service” vs “phoenix customer service” will prove my point.

Thanks, I’m very satisfied with my phoenix and their customer service has been nothing short of stellar. I wish you luck with your boat going forward as well.

I'd agree that most if not every boat company has stories like these about warranty issues, but there has to be better ways of dealing with it than what Lund is doing here to my friend and to others who have posted. Timely communication and customer service are key, and in other industries, can often make or break a business. One of the major reasons I went with Phoenix is because of all the really good experiences other owners have had regarding customer service and getting things fixed and covered by the company. I understand that a lot of the time, warranty fixes are up to the dealer, but in the case that the dealer refuses to help, the company has to step up and make things right, especially when guys are spending upwards of 50k-100k+ on a new boat. Also, it is true that others' experiences may not be directly applicable to another person's, but it highlights a negative and worrying pattern. Why do they selectively choose to help some of their customers out but not others? As a customer, we shouldn't allow companies to treat us like this and personally, I would not purchase any boat from a company that doesn't honor their warranty across the board and treat their customers as they should.

I’d just like to add that my buddy has had some issues with getting Lund to help out with a cracked transom on a 2019 Lund Fury 1600. He sent the boat to the dealer and was told that Lund would only cover 80% of the repair and that he would have to pay 20% of it out of pocket. This was after the dealer argued with Lund for a week getting them to take responsibility for the cracked transom. I personally feel like this is kind of ridiculous especially on a 3-4 yr old boat that supposedly has a lifetime transom warranty. If you look around online, this is not the first time Lund has had issues honoring their warranty and certainly won’t be the last.

Yes, basically what GaryH said, you can decide how much you want to lower/raise the power poles depending on how long you hold the up/down buttons for. I can't comment on the raptors as I've never used them but I can't imagine they'd be any different from power poles.

This is what happens when I don't read the whole thread lol, my bad.

You're talking about Group 27 which are smaller batteries, less runtime, and therefore cheaper than a Group 31 of the same brand. I was quoting the prices of Group 31 AGM batteries, my bad if there was any confusion.

Gotcha, I'm quoting the more popular/well-known brands like Duracell, Optima, or X2. All those run between $300-$500 each.

True but you're getting twice if not more run time over an AGM/Lead Acid setup and twice the lifetime (10-12 years for lithium vs 4-5 for AGM/Lead Acid). You're talking roughly $600-$800 for 2 AGMs depending on brand vs $800-$1000 for the Lithiums and charger. For me, it was a no-brainer to go lithium. Just my own experience but I used to run a group 31 AGM for my 2 Solix 12's and Livescope + Echomap 10, and without running the big motor, the battery was dead in 5 hours. Now with the 125 ah Ionic Lithium, I can run the graphs all day and still have 70-80% remaining.

I know you said you don’t want to go lithium, but if you’re going to spend the money for an AGM, you’re better off going lithium for the weight savings, run time, and overall battery life (a lot of lithium batteries have 10-12 year warranties/replacement plans). Otherwise I’d just stick with lead acids if you’re trying to save money.

I haven't weighed any of my rods. I can tell you that they both feel great in the hand and are very similar in weight. Off the top of my head, I want to say that the champ xp is slightly lighter but I couldn't tell you for sure unless I hold both of them at the same time. I also run different reels on the rods so there's that as well.

I also have both the Champ XP 734 and Sierra 734. Frnk hit it right on the spot, the champion has a faster blank that is better for texas rigs and bottom contact baits. Sierra has slower/more moderate action that is better suited to moving baits. Not saying you can't fish bottom contact stuff on the Sierra, but it just comes down to personal preference. If you're looking for something with more backbone, go with the Champ 744, it's their jig/texas rig-specific rod in the Champ line.

I run 2 8ft blades off the back of my boat. Usually anything deeper than 6.5ft, I'm using spotlock. If it's 6.5ft or shallower, I use the power poles. I don't get to use them much besides when docking or bed fishing but they're nice to have and very useful when you need them.

Did you go mercury or yamaha? If you go with the 4 stroke proxs, just make sure to check the trim screw constantly or put red loctite on it. I’ve had mine fall out twice already and both times the boat was unusable and had to go to a dealer to recalibrate the trim sensor via computer

Congrats! I’ve got a 2021 920 Elite and I love it, definitely get the trailer shocks.

Rigged straight as in on the jighead? I usually try to rig them as straight as possible, and the dummies are usually just screwed on. I’m just wondering if swapping out the bottom 2 jigheads for 1/4 instead of 1/8 or putting 1/8 jigheads on the dummies would reduce the spin?

I’ve been having an issue with alabama rigs rotating/spinning while retrieving them. I’ve been fishing with the yum flash mob jr and 3 1/8 jigheads on the middle and bottom two arms with 2 dummy baits up top on owner cps springs. Mostly running 2.8-3.8 keitechs. Just wondering if this is due to weight distribution or retrieve speed, it seems to get worse the faster I reel.

I’ve been running ionics for the past year as well with no issues, very happy with them. Stay away from the cheap amazon lithium batteries and stick with a reputable brand. Also if you’re looking to save a bit, you probably don’t need a 100ah lithium for a 12v trolling motor

I have fished chatterbaits on fluoro on both the Sierra 734 and Champ 736 glass. I actually felt that the sierra had a little too much vibration and much prefer the deader feeling of the glass rod. I find that it keeps them pinned a lot better than a graphite rod. I hated the dead feeling of glass at first but you’ll get used to it.

Wouldn’t the prop still spin from momentum after the kill switch is pulled and the engine lands on the deck?

Although I would much prefer indoor storage, that isn’t an option for me so I keep my fiberglass boat stored outside pretty much all year round. As others have said, as long as you keep it covered when not in use and try to keep water/snow off the cover, it should be alright.

I run 2 8 ft power pole blades on my boat and have been pretty happy with them. Other guys run minn kota raptors or talons, it honestly just comes down to personal preference and how much you can get them for.

The price on the tracker sounds a little high compared to the price of the ranger

734 Sierra or Champ xp is what you’re looking for