Just_Old_Fisherman

I was ask by one of the members on here if I would get some pictures and description of the process I use to tie my Weedless Wacky Worm hook. I came up with this because the lake I fish is loaded with Salt Cedar and Mesquite and the Gamakatsu Weedless Finesse hook wasn't cutting it. The weedguard was so soft that the second I got into any brush it popped open. I could bury the point in the bait like some do, but that tears the baits up so bad on each fish and again the brush was pushing the point through. So I came up with this, not 100% weedless, not fishless, but works for me. I use the 3/0 or 4/0 Gamakatsu Finesse Widegap hook. You will need a fly tying vise and a fly tying bobbin to hold the thread. I got cheap ones at Bass Pro. Some fly tying/rod winding thread. For the weedguard I got the cheapest 50lb line I could find at Walmart----the stiffer the better. First I cut a 4.5 piece of the mono. I start by just winding a few loops of thread around the hook about 1/8 behind the eye to attach the thread to the hook for starters. I then wrap the mono to the hook with most of it sticking out over the hook eye. Be sure and leave about 1/8 between the wraps around the hook and the hook eye as you can see in this picture. Next, take the mono and loop it back toward the hook point and down along the edge of the mono that is wrapped on the hook. This makes the weedguard loop. The top of the loop is usually about ¼ above the hook point. Let the extra mono stick out past the hook eye. Wrap the mono now ahead of where the first wrap stopped toward the eye in the 1/8 gap you left between the first wrap and the hook eye. Wrap it as needed to hold the mono in place. You can pull on the mono to make the loop larger or smaller if needed. Here is what it should look like at this point. Next I use Dikes to cut the mono as close as possible behind the hook eye. BUT DON'T CUT THE THREAD (voice of experience). I then make 3-4 half hitches with the thread around the hook just behind the eye. This is what it will then look like. Next use some rod varnish, fly tying varnish, any varnish, epoxy, ., to coat the thread to hold and protect it. It should be ready to catch some fish. I use this with o-rings I get at Lowes/Home Depot in the plumbing section for my wacky rigs. I have good luck with Zoom Finesse and Trick worms; seem to give more action to me than Senko's. Good luck and good fishing.

Lake Forck Tackle is making a good weighted hook for flukes/swimbaits. They are especially good for the larger baits. They come in 3/0, 5/0, 7/0 and 10/0. Barlows has/had some of them, some Wal-marts and Academy's.

I tried the Gammy Weedless Finesse wide gap, but could only find it locally in a 1 size. Also, the weedguards came open too easy in the heavy salt cedar that is predominate in my main lake. I started using the Gammy Finesse Wide Gap 3/0 and tieing my own weedguards on. Use a loop of cheap 50lb mono that works in the brush and grass.

Jig X are some pretty awesome baits.Pretty close up there to high end jigs. I will 3rd it for Vertical's Jig-X, they also make a good Football Jig for the rocks. Good thing about their jigs besides the hidden line tie is they have some heavy jigs which I have been favoring lately---in and out of weeds. Been using lots of 1/2 and 3/4 oz jigs even a few 1 oz.

Both. When spooling new line I spray some Line & Lure on a small rag and run the line through it as I spool it. Then before loading my rigs in the boat I give them a 2-3 shots around the spool. I never retreat during the day, never need it. And my light line is 14 lb Gamma, up to 20# P-Line CX-Premium. Also, if a rod has been sitting for a while and not used, I will give it a few shots.

I have always thought that if bearings need fresh oil, they need to be cleaned first. Otherwise, you are oiling the dirt/sludge remaining from the previous oil. Unless they have never been oiled/lubricated there will be some residue from the previous lubricant.

NO Green Pumpkin? Green Pumpkin with Chart Spike-It tail dip is the only bait made.

I use the thumb nail test. If the hook does not hang in my thumb nail when I drag the point across it, it is dull and is replaced. I have had good luck with the Triple Grips and they are cheaper than the Gammy which I used before.

I used Reel Magic before I tried KVD Line & Lure and I can tell a big difference. They are totally different products. Take a look at the FAQ section for Line & Lure, explains it pretty good. http://www.lineandlure.com/info/faq_lnl.php I have not tried or seen the Tangle Free product, but have trouble understanding how 2-3 drops on a spool of line could help the entire spool or an entire cast worth of line. May be a great product, just had never heard of it before this thread. Not trying to sell anything or unsell anything, I have no skin in any of the products. Just stating what I have experienced.

Think this is the key, get the Cast not the Lightning if you want to try this brand. After the way the Lightning was that I got, I wasn't going to risk more money for the Cast and chance it. It may be good, but I have found lots of other lines I have good results with.

I have been using it for over a year and would not be without it. Also, I found the best price is to order direct in a 2 or 4 bottle package. You can get it from their new website: http://cleverinnovations.net/details/category/4/prodid/5/

Have also had good luck using the Gamakatsu Skip Gap hook, usually 3/0.

I got 1 spool of 20# that could have been used to fence in Bulls. It had more memory than barbed wire. Used it 1 trip, stripped it off when I got home and have used it only for backing since. The red works good to show me when I am getting a little low on my "good" line.

Here are 2 pretty good tutorials on sonar use. Especially the Pro's Corner one by Luke Morris. May be some duplication, but better 2 than 0. '>http://www.lukebuddy.com/Lowrance/default.htm '>http://www.lowrance.com/Support/Tips-and-Tutorials/Sonar-Tutorial/

Here is a good report by TPWD concerning catch and relese. It is Titled "Catch-and-Release: Have We Gone too Far?". Couple of key points made are: 1. The concept that releasing all the fish you catch is always the best thing to do is just wrong. 2. One of the possible results of no angler harvest is reduced growth rate of all the fish in a lake because of competition for food. 3. TPWD biologists look at harvest of fish by anglers as one of the tools they have for managing a fish population. You can see the entire paper at: http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/fishboat/fish/didyouknow/inland/catchrelease.phtml

Mike - If you ever start using braid, be sure and have something besides clippers to cut it. They just fray it and don't cut it clean at all. Sort of like a dog gnawing on a rawhide bone---you will get it cut eventually, but not real neat.

Get the Fiskar school sciccors at Wally World. Also the cutter off a box of dental floss works well---Power Pro now has one on their box. I took the cutter off a Power Pro box drilled holes in the tabs on each side, ran a zip lock tie through the holes and attached it to my seat post on the boat----always handy and cuts mono as well.

Ceramic bearings migh be a little over kill for a Cruxis. But ABEC7's are pretty close and might be a nice $18 upgrade.

Best thing I have found for line memory/coiling problems is the KVD Line & Lure----well worth the money. BTW I fish very heavy salt cedar and my "light" line is 14 lb. Use a lot of 20# P-Line Premium Mono as well as 50 Lb braid. The Line & Lure even manages the 20# well. For a tool to break braid, I went to local lumber yard and got a 1" dowel cut it to about 2' long. Then got some 1" diameter vinyl tubing and slipped it over the dowel and stapled it in place. The tubing keeps the braid from slipping around the dowel. Saves the reel and my hand.

As a general rule of thumb, for t-rig I use 1/4 oz down to 12-15' then I use 3/8 oz 15+'. And of course there are always exceptions, but this might give you a starting point.

I like the rubber peg-it type stops. I know they won't damage my line. Not so much a problem with braid but you really have to be careful when using mono/fluoro and pegging with a toothpick. I found some at Academy and even cheaper than these in a 100 pack. http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_30021_100010003_100000000_100010000_100-10-3

Here is what Doug Hannon thinks about it. This is an excerpt from the Professors Forum: Quote: "is red line like Cajun red cast really less visible to fish than regular low vis green mono? " Answer: Many gamefish have a heightened sensitivity to the color red. It is the only color known to increase the strike reflex in fish, and, as such, has a place in lure presentation. I don't buy that it would be good in a line color, because typically we do not want the line to be noticed. The fact that it disappears at depth does not mean it is rendered invisible. The red is simply replaced with black. I would favor pale green as the least visible line. Doug Hannon

For my 10 rigs think I will stick with the Berkley. Can always spray some water on it to cool it off from the friction. Plus I save a lot on Dr bills, cause if I brought home a $300 line winder the wife would stick it some place and let it wind.

Best bet would be to follow the mfr recommended line # test and lure weight for each rod. Then see what bait you fish that fits that combo.

Probably find more people using Power Pro than any other braid. At least that is the impression I get on the 5-6 forums I frequent.