Bass-Addict

Heard good things about the Tippy, I am using 12 lb Sniper

How deep is your river

River I fish is on the smaller side, 3-5’ on average with plenty of 7-12+ holes throughout. I am just getting into Jerkbait fishing, and started w the 110 & Junior + 1 but wondering if there’s a place for the 110 + 1? I’ve heard the 110 doesn’t run true to the depth rating even with proper line and long casts, do you even bother with regular 110 this time of year?

For example - this weekend will be in the mid-upper 40s here but will be rainy and overcast. Next weekend is the inverse, cooler air temps in the 30s but sunny skies. in your experience, which is typically more productive this time of year in a river?

But is a bass more likely to attack a bait ball if there is a straggler?

But isn’t a larger swimbait (3-5”) a baitfish imitation?

Ahh great points. Never even considered this, is that something they target or that triggers them, a larger baitfish chasing smaller ones (being distracted?)

Which rigs have you tried, and which did you like best? Wonder why Hog Farmer, who is supposedly the gold standard for A Rigs, does not implement this design in all but one of their rigs?

So you don’t use one with longer middle wire, just longer bait?

6th Sense Umbrella Rigs previously had a longer center wire for the trailer bait. They took it away and made all 5 wires equal lengths, people complained so they reverted to the original design. My question is, is there any advantage or function this serves when you are running 5 hooks? Does a loan bait trailing slightly behind the rest of the bait ball invite more strikes because it looks more vulnerable than 5 all together or was this design implemented simply to keep them off the dummy (hookless) baits?

I got the smallest, executive 4.” Below is the Kast King, see the difference in sharpness?

I just want to make sure I’m not losing my mind, I have heard these are the “last split ring pliers you’ll ever need.” Yet my knockoff KastKings have the tooth on the tip of the pliers, as do my full sized fishing pliers. To be clear when I say tooth I am of course referring to the hooked end that wedges in between the split ring. I tried using the TX Tackle pliers and it seemed quite a bit more difficult than the others getting it lined up, I just want to make sure I wasn’t using them wrong before returning?

Very informative response, thanks. I’ve replaced all of the stock hooks with Gamakatsu G Finesse.

I did notice the handle length before buying, seemed a bit long. Is the Dobyns quite a bit more bendy when working the bait? As long as there is slack wouldn’t this extra flex on the jerk help subdue the action you are imparting? As long as there is slack wouldn’t the extra flex of a more parabolic rod on the jerk help subdue the action you are imparting?

Ok and what is the action like?

How does the MB compare to the Expride?

What is your personal choice? Not obsessed anymore than I am with doing anything else correctly, the overwhelming sentiment here has been this particular technique is very specific and sensitive to things like equipment and line, not just angler input.

Ok gotcha. So I am in good shape as far as my setup goes? Have you heard the Expride referred to as the best Jerkbait rod?

How about for the motion itself - how much if any bend do you want on each jerk?

So I use 12 lb sniper, however I am referring more to working the bait than keeping the fish pinned in my OP.

Some context: I have recently begun throwing jerkbaits, specifically the Vision 110. I just got the Shimano Expride which I was told is “the best Jerkbait rod in the world.” Is this accurate? It seems fine but I’ve noticed it does not bend as much as the spinning rod I was using, and I’m wondering if that’s good or bad. Throwing it on a Curado MGL 70 spooled w 12 lb sniper. Prior to my new setup, I was throwing it on my 7’1” MF St Croix Legend Tournament Spinning rod. Working a Jerkbait on this rod “felt” right, or at least gave me confidence as the bend of the rod kept tension in between the rod & and the bait. With the Expride, I am somewhat struggling to maintain this level of tension without reeling up slack. My question is do I need/want this tension, and is that how it is supposed to be for this application or is that just in my head? I‘m not sure if this difference is a result of the rod being longer or if the LTB is simply more moderate? Both are rated roughly the same power, with the nod in favor of the Expride having a moderate fast action (unless this only effects the tip in which case the parabolic bend I’m experiencing is specifically in the power.) I WANT the Expride to work, as I have heard countless people hail the Expride as the gold standard and emphasize the importance of the 6’8-6’10” range as the sweet spot on length. I just want to be sure this loss in bend/tension isn’t of any importance or necessary. Anyway, apologies for the excessive detail I have just read here how specialized this technique is and I want to get it right!

And as far as downsizing, not necessary?

My real question is, if the conditions are such that the fish are finicky or spooky and you have to mask your presentation with a less visible color like an ice, is it a given that you should also downsize or is there a time and place for a full size walking bait or prop bait in a translucent pattern? For example, Teckle Kickknocker vs Pup in a translucent color.

I message MB, they’re saying Gammy Round Bend #8

Ok so size 6 G Finesse will be fine and not too heavy?