TheRodFather

Yeah now that you say that, I think you are right. The ultra has 2 ports, one would be for panoptix, one would be to link to one of the console graphs, but then the second console graph doesn't have anything to connect to. That could work though, the console graph that I use for mapping is the only one I would need to link to the bow. Unless there is some pressing reason to use the transom transducer while I am at the bow. I don't know, I don't have any real world experience with a multi screen/multi transducer setup. How to you guys utilize the different capabilities of the bow graph? What are desirable features of the bow graph?

My current 73sv unit is a Plus unit, but unfortunately I must have an earlier unit, because I have the CV transducer. I was never really all that impressed with side scan and down view, and maybe that's why. I just thought there wasn't much of any cover in the lakes I fish, maybe it's the transducer though. So maybe I would be better off getting another (newer) 73sv for now, like I mentioned in the last post, that would come with the GT52 TD, and put it on the transom in place of the CV TD, for side scan scouting purposes. Then putting the CV TD on the trolling motor for 2d and mapping/holding position. (for now). So just so I'm clear though, I can network another plus to my plus and look at whatever transducer I want between the two. But the Plus's only have one ethernet port each, so if I wanted to add Livescope down the road to those two units, I would need the $1500 panoptix bundle, and that would allow me to network the panoptix and my two plus units all together, without any other purchases, correct? Long term, I want to have two units on the console, an Ultra unit on the bow, and then panoptix (the ultra just needs the transducer as you know), at that point would I be able to link all three together and have livescope without any other purchases? Thanks for the help, trying to plan for the long haul and would be ticked to find I can't "get there from here".

Ok, let me ask this: If I picked up a 73cv for now (not in a place to spend 1000 plus at the moment, got to keep wife happy ), and put it on the bow, networking would allow me to share waypoints with the rear unit correct? What about transducer data? Meaning, could the front unit look at what the transom transducer is looking at (side vu)? The reason I ask, is if at a later date, I get what I really want on the bow, and I move the bow 73 back to the console with my other 73sv, one for mapping, one for sonar scouting, do I need two transducers mounted on the transom, or can they both use the gt52 I currently have on my transom? If I use the 73cv for mapping, do I even need a transducer for it? How do they network together, bluetooth, cat5 cable?

All great info, thank you. I need to change my profile, as I am now in central North Carolina

There is shad in the lake, don't know if it is primary, but it seems to be. I have caught crappie, white bass, catfish, and a couple small largemouth in open water. All on a 1/4oz chrome, blue or black back red eye shad. There are two public fishing docks on this lake, there is a rip rap bridge on one of the creek arms. Some electric line pilings, some humps, and one very nice ledge that has boats parked on it all the time. The western banks of most of the lake arms have shallow transitions to the creek channels, and the eastern sides are pretty steep to deep water, but no flats really. Here is a navionics web app shot of the lake:https://webapp.navionics.com/#boating@10&key=}bixEvrz`N I have gotten some good sized largemouth bites, all were shallow in coves, pitching close to the reeds, all on the western banks. One was on a spook in the morning, two on a swim jig in shad color with a keitech impact trailor, one on a texas rigged creature bait. I have had some equipment, and operator errors that caused none of these bites to get to the boat (my fault completely, drag too loose, not setting hook well enough, and a Curado that completely locked up for some reason and wouldn't crank) I have been forcing myself to focus on learning to fish deep for about 4 weekends, I should mention that. I'm sure I could beat the banks and get a bite or few. I wonder if I should be learning the life cycle of shad, and the bass are a byproduct? I'm looking to learn deep fishing, I failed to mention that, I apologize.

Like the title states, how do you pattern the fish when you don't "know" where they are. As in a new lake, or a long time since you got out fishing? Is there a procedure you follow when you get the boat in the water, a "standard operating procedure" if you will. Meaning, do you account for seasonal patterns, then look on maps and hit the spots where they "should" be, what if they aren't where the should be? Troll around points and such graphing? Start shallow, and go deep? Or do you do something else? As someone who came from a (very) shallow smallmouth fishery, I looked for current breaks, eddies, and things like that. Now that I am in LMB country, I am struggling to learn how to find the fish and "pattern" them. The only time I was able to put together what I would call a pattern, was a couple weeks ago I was catching white bass in about 10ft of water on a point. So I ran to another point and was able to replicate the same thing in 10ft again. There are several good lakes very near to me (MLF was here on Jordan, Falls, and Harris, all within 20 min of my place), so I know there is good fishing here. I have been studying my maps, trying to learn my electronics, but still haven't really felt like I put any kind of "pattern" together. I have limited myself to Harris, which is only 4100 acres, in the hope that I can work a smaller body of water so as not to totally overwhelm myself. I try to throw baits that cover water, and don't linger too long in areas where I am not getting bites. But to be honest, I'm not getting any LM bites........ I run into schools of white bass frequently, and catching a couple dozen of them distracts me for too long. I need to get serious about catching some pigs! Harris had 40 plus pound bags on consecutive days a couple years ago, I know they are here. Teach me BR, teach me the ways.......

I am so overloaded with info right now. It almost sickens me to see how much this stuff costs. It seems ridiculous to spend the kind of money it would take to have (for example) a 12 on the bow, and 2 9s on the console. I love to fish as much as the next guy, but d**n, is this what is needed to catch fish?

I have these and they are going on 2 years without any problems. I do remember reading about all the things you and others have trouble with when I settled on these, so I installed them so that there is minimal stretch when they are holding the rods, and I don't leave them stretched between outings, etc. https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/marine-raider-boat-rod-strap?gclid=CjwKCAjw8qjnBRA-EiwAaNvhwIK2VVTZ8WE8Aw0cdNOMohLyh1ob9eeEbOCvjEKI3Jkh1giA6NWtchoCrsAQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#repChildCatid=12992&affcode=42&campid=1757576084&adgroupid=71643549307&device=c&keyword=007535990&Channel=pla

I originally built my 6 rod system with the Omen Blacks. I liked the ergos of the rod, and the sensitivity was good at the price point in my opinion. I had 2, maybe 3 that broke the first 2 guides worth of tip off on hook sets or casts. 2 were 7 ft (ish, I think they are 7-1 but im not sure), and the other was a 6 something MH spinning rod. One was replaced at the tackle shop without too much trouble, the others I re tipped because they had some age on them and I didnt feel right trying to get a free rod. I do have a bit of a bad taste in my mouth about them though, and as I move forward, I won't be buying more of them.

He says that he can hook each thing (TM, and Outboard) up separately, and they both work fine, and no fuse blowing. If that is a true statement, then your issue is very strange. Take the positive and negative lead (TM) off the battery, and test for continuity to from positive to ground, and from negative to ground. There should be no continuity. If there is, your TM wiring is shorted to the boat somewhere. Do the same for the outboard, any continuity to the boat means a wire is grounded. I do agree that you "shouldn't" put an outboard on a deep cycle battery, they don't like the burst of amp draw from a starter, they are made for steady current draw over long periods. It should work, it just won't last as long as if you had the proper battery for the application. And you do need a bigger fuse/breaker on your trolling motor for sure. Put the old battery in and see if it works like it did before you changed the battery, if it works fine, the battery is causing the issue for some reason. If the fuse continues to blow, something happened with the wiring during the battery swap.

Should I be interested in Livescope? Thats a lot of money.....

Well, I guess I am familiar with the Garmin, but I don't want to spend 1000 plus for a unit that is inferior to other brands, simply because I am more familiar with it. I'm not at a place (yet), where I am so invested in one brand that it is unrealistic to change direction. If I buy a Garmin for the bow, I am officially invested in Garmin as far as I'm concerned. Which is fine if they are on par with everything else out there. But if not, now is the time to change directions. At my current skill level of using the unit, I probably can't tell the difference between Garmin/lowrance/HD performance. But as I get better, I don't want the equipment to limit me (within my price point of course) If money was no object, I'm sure there is some killer tech out there and of course huge screens. Is it safe to say that all of the big 3 are close enough in performance that it really just comes down to preference?

Can the transdsucer that comes with it be mounted on the TM without further purchases?

Hey fellas, I need a graph for my bow. I currently have a garmin echomap 73sv at the console, but I wouldn't be opposed to going in a different direction with the bow, and then changing the console unit down the road if garmin is not the best choice up front. I would love to have them networked, but don't want to invest in another garmin unit just for networking, IF garmin is not the best path overall. I am new to LM on lakes fishing and have a lot to learn about finding the fish. I have been having some success reading my contour maps and putting a pattern together, but not having a graph on the bow is frustrating once I start fishing. I have I-Pilot on my TM, so that helps, once I find a spot I like while driving, I can be locked on and just fish. But I still feel blind, and trolling around trying to follow the contour is tough. I do not have I-Pilot link, and it cannot be gotten for my Powerdrive, that I know of. I am a little confused on what features I do and do not want in a bow unit (side imaging?). And whether or not I will need a different transducer than what comes in the boxes from the big 3. What are your recommendations at 1500 or less, with possible future additions in mind?

looks interesting. If it was me, I would buy one of the hundreds of LED lightbar type lights on the automotive market and make my own setup, probably save yourself 150 dollars.

Ok, sounds good, I wasn't sure if side scan on the bow was a good idea, and didn't want to waste money on a unit that can do if it isn't something that will work well with I-pilot. Thanks again! TRF

Like the title states, when I-pilot is doing it's thing, correcting, swinging around etc, what does that do for the image that the transducer on the TM is producing? Would the swinging really mess with side scan or other views?

I have the gen 3 mini, I believe it is 4amps per bank. I has never failed to fully charge up my batteries overnight, although 10a per bank is recommended.

Ahh, thanks

Anyone local want to get together and fish?

T-minus 3 days until I'm a North Carolinian, Carolinan..... Starting to get excited about the fishing prospects. I am going to be 40 minutes from Shearon Harris, and Falls Lake, and 20 from Lake Jordan.

Last year I made a rod carrier out of PVC and some wood, the concept was functional but I never really ended up using it. Picture a golf bag with those retractable legs so you can set it down without laying it down. The idea was to make a carrier that could transport 3 or 4 rods in an orderly fashion for walking the bank. https://www.cabelas.com/product/ROD-RUNNER/2194874.uts?productVariantId=4500688&WT.tsrc=PPC&WT.mc_id=GoogleProductAds&WT.z_mc_id1=04365222&rid=20&ds_rl=1252079&gclid=Cj0KCQjwqsHWBRDsARIsALPWMEMoCZvcWvegK10T_s2MkyLNLcoktTnngPigu2twkC3uCKE2PWfDQSwaAgOHEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Anywho, to get the chamfer on the pipe, I glued them flush with the top board, then the router had a flat surface to reference when shaping the inside of the pipe.

As far as drilling the holes for the longer rods, my plan was to drill the holes and install those tubes that you see in golf bags, that way the guides are not getting beat up on the way in and out. They are black plastic, maybe 1 1/4in diameter, and have a rolled lip on them so they would sit flush with the surface you drilled the hole in.

Anyone have any advice on a cover for my boat? It is a 1984 Landau Magnum TR. Or virtually the same hull as a 17ft Tracker of the same vintage. I'm not looking to spend a ton of money on the cover, just something with elastic, or a drawstring so I can more easily manage the wind that always seems to catch the tarp that I currently use year round. I will not be towing with the cover, and for winter storage, I would like to use the cover, with a tarp over top for a double layer of protection. The tarp is a real pain to deal with during the fishing season when I'm going out fishing and coming back. But the frame and tarp arrangement I built worked well this winter at keeping the snow/rain from pooling in the boat. So, like a 3 season cover. One that would work with the frame under it would be great, it sits about 3 feet above the deck, so there would have to be a good bit of slack in the cover to work with the frame I think? Is such a thing made? I could re-work the frame to sit lower if needed.

Is the old wire still in place? If so tape the new to the old really well , maybe get some wire pulling lube, or grease etc to wipe the new wire with, and pull........ My wires were encased in the 2 part expanding foam that the manufacturers use in several places and no amount of pulling was going to get them out of those sections. I was doing a full resto, so I just ran new wires when everything was gutted. By the looks of your picture you have a Tracker, if it was built like my boat (similar hull), there is probably foam under the floor boards between the stringers and in various other cavities, so no easy way to run new wire. Maybe pull the floor drains out and have a look at whats under there. Maybe give the dealer a call and ask them how they do it, and decide if you want to get into it, or have them do it.