Rdeca

Its called East Penn Duration Extreme AGM. from what i understand a few companys manufacture all the batteries then company s like Interstate or Duracell or whatever, Slap there labels on it and charge whatever they think they can get. There are a few exceptions i suppose. There is a battery called VMAX TANK.basically its a super heavy duty battery. But you will pay for it... Hope this helped.

How much is a lot?. I have a store called farm and fleet near me. I bought the group 31 duration extreme AGM. For 189$ its got a 2 year free replacement..and 4 year prorated. IT IS the same exact battery as Duracell platinium agm. Only its 70 dollars cheaper....AND has a better warranty than battery plus bulbs or Sams club gives. Its not the highest spec battery but its d**n good for the price

Zebco Omniflex is actually great Mono! I use it as backing on rods with braid and I use it as mainline on rods with mono. Yep i still use mono all the time. Can't stand Florocarbon. I have wasted money on the "best" florocarbons just to end up hating it

I use a medium action 6foot rod gander mountain advantage series. with 12lb mono and a revo s reel to pitch all the time. Its my lightweight pitching setup wheb cover isn't heavy...i can pitch all day no fatigue and the rod was only like 30 bucks. I love it. EVERYONE WENT AWAY FROM SHORT RODS BUT MAN THEY SURE FISH GOOD. Specially with the new rod materials . i get great hooksets. And the shorter length really helps with fatigue. Also they are easier to swing with trees overhead or tight spaces. Another plus. I recommend you find a 6foot rod of your choice and try it...the revo S is the best light cheap comfortable baitcaster.. YOU DO NOT NEED 7 FOOT PLUS RODS ALL THE TIME TRUST ME.

86 Grumman and Mariner. Updated-Redid the boat in a minimal fasion gets the job done for very little money invested.

The only reason i would prefer the jack plate i think is if i repower the new motor will have trim. So then I'd have both. But i don't think the motor is gonna crap out. Its 33years old but like brand new. And not worth the 5 to 8 hundred dollars I'd get for selling it. So ill run it till it fails. I sure would like to have both tho.

I have a clamp on 30hp mariner twostroke (yamaha) weighs 120lbs on a 16x42 aluminum Grumman Challenger. it does not have power trim or shallow drive. Just a bracket with five holes and a pin to adjust prop attitude manually. I want power trim but was thinking. Would a power jack plate be more valuble to me? Get on plane super and run. Vs a power trim. I usually just set the motor on middle hole and leave it anyway unless i have two in the boat then i drop a hole down. A unit with both jack and trim is super expensive about 1500. A power jack plate is 800 and a power trim is 650 give or take depending on vendor. WOULD A JACK PLATE DO ME BETTER THAN REGULAR POWER TRIM? anyone running a jack PLATE on small outboard and boats?

Thanks guys...I think the problem was the little spring loaded carrier that the bus fuse locks into. I cut that out stripped fresh wire and rewired new in and insulated everything with marine shrink tube and put a 40amp fuse in instead of the 25 that was there before. ....seems fine so far. Im not worried about using the trolling bat as a cranking battery. The starter only requires 350 MCA. The battery is rated at a thousand MCA and 105 amp hours it starts the instant the key is hit. Strain on battery is minimal. I don't need two batterys its un necessary. Its not a tournament boat. Its a light 16x42 that drafts about nine inch of water. I could get away with a battery half the size. Its an oversized battery for the application for sure. And its designed for cranking and deepcycle

I cut out the trolling motor plug. Its not even wired in the circuit. So its not anything to do up front. I will have to pull the rear deck out and have a look.at wiring. It all appears clean from what i can see. And i would think nothing is wrong... i bought the boat used so who knows. Ill just run without the starter and use the pull start for now....its really strange issue that i didn t expect. I can also just run two batteries like I was. But I'd like to find the issue

I guess i don't really need the electric start. It is nice on cold mornings....with a cold blooded carburated two stroke. After the she's got that first heat in her she starts as soon as you hit the key. Same with the pull start. Its easy. But that first start of the day she's kind of picky Not Having two batterys...saves space and weight. That's the only reason for trying to go down to one battery.

There is nothing else on the circuit. Its a lead strait from battery to the trolling motor plug (wich i cut out just to eliminate fault). And the factory lead that's three feat long that goes to the big motors starter. All wiring and connectors are in good shape. I never run the bilge unless emergency....the boat stays dry. Or the aeration. I just pull the plug and let in fresh water or bail water into THE LIVEWELL. I use the lowrance only when running the big motor. There is no excessive draw. Its a minimalistic boat set up for bass fishing. Smaller lakes and river backwater. I have never seen the end of my trolling motor battery. In a full day fishing not even close....its a group 31 pulling a lightweight 16 foot alum boat. Its a five speed. Trolling motor and i rarely run it on speed three. Mostly the dial is on one or two. It only draws maybe 6 or 8 amps under that load. Its a 105 amp hour battery. And the motor is a 30hp with a pull start if i need it. Idk....im baffled.

Voltage across battery is 12.76 volts. The fuse for the trolling motor is 25amps ....if i hook up the leads from the big motor starter everything's fine. As soon as i touch the positive lead from the trolling motor i get an arc and the fuse goes. The negative isn't hooked up or touching anything. Same thing happens the other way around. If the trolling motor is hooked to the battery by itself its fine. As soon as i touch the positive lead from the big motors starter to the positive on the battery...I get an arc and the fuse on the positive trolling motor lead blows. Both the big motors starter and the trolling motor work fine connected to the battery by themselves. I touched off on the starter to the big motor with a multimeter and got a slight reading for a few seconds (.04) then i got nothing the second time. I am baffled as to. why i can't hook both these things up to one battery.

I have a 30hp mariner with electric start and a Minolta edge 45lb trolling motor. I recently bought a new agm group 31 battery. And was planning on hooking everything to one battery. (I used to have a cranking battery just for cranking and everything else hooked up to my deep cycle wich consists of bilge aeration and a small lawrance)When the trolling motor is isolated and hooked up to the battery its fine. Nothing else hooked to the battery at this point. As soon as i touch the positive lead from the big motor to the battery positive terminal. I get spark and the fuse (25amp glass tube) on the trolling motor positive lead breaks. What's going on here. Both the big motor and the trolling motor hook up and work fine on there own....but they do not play nice together. At first i went to the front of the boat and undid the trolling motor plug. Because I had the starter for the big motor hooked up and tried hooking up the trolling motor. As soon as i touch positive. POOF. Everything was off and isolated. There is no bad wires or connection. Just these two systems a red and black lead from the big motor and a red and black lead from trolling motor. As soon as i try to hook them both to the same battery fuses blow. Everything works fine on separate batteries. I had everything hooked up before for 4 years with zero issues. Why can't i hook my trolling motor and my big motor to the same battery?