TheRodFather

Truth!

Well I ended up going with a Garmin Echomap Plus 73sv. It is a 2018, so it has the touchscreen which is nice. And all the features that I am looking for. The humminbird menu interface seemed clumsy to me, having to cycle through things to get where you want to be, and the features I wanted at my price point was going to put me at a 5in screen. The Lowrance had the features I wanted, and a 7in screen at my price point, BUT, I was told by the Lowrance rep that was there at the time, that I would need to pay $100 a year subscription to access the software that allowed me to convert the sonar data that I record, into a format that I could use to make my own contour maps....... So, for me, the Garmin was the best value. The Lowrance rep said to me in a snarky way "come back in 6 months and let us know how you feel then", not exactly sure if he was referring to the reliability of the Garmin, or what. But they have been around a long time, and lots of people feel the image quality is great, so I feel pretty confident.

Those type of piggyback connectors are (in my opinion) not a good permanent solution. Besides the wire hanging out the front, just asking to get yanked out when changing a fuse while standing on your head to get at the fusebox, as you drift toward some horrible unknown boat smashing hazard (OK, worst case senario ). They are prone to corrosion, etc. For my piece of mind, the extra couple of minutes it would take to solder and shrink wrap it into another wire (or the same wire/fuse, just in the rear of the fusebox) would be worth it. Mind you though, I am a bit a**l retentive about wiring. When I see stuff like this: https://www.grainger.com/product/1A075?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&s_kwcid=AL!2966***!50916775437!!!g!81032122797!&ef_id=WQUTLAAAANlrJhGW:20180328022629:s I become very Leary of the quality of work that may have been done by the previous owner, and thats not a good feeling for me when it comes to a boat.

TM 1: There are spreadsheets on the web that should tell you if your wires are adequate for the amps your new TM can pull VS the length of the wire. Minn Kota can tell you how many amps your TM can pull, and the recommended Breaker. 2: I would buy a plug, soldering the splice is how I would put them together if not doing a plug, but then you loose the ability to disconnect easily. The cost is minimal VS the convenience. 3: I assume the puck is for the "jog" feature of Ipilot, I am not an authority on the install, but my gut tells me that mounting it further away from the TM would be better, I believe that the system uses the TM and the puck to determine the attitude of the boat. So that way it "knows" that when you jog left, that it will go left in relation to wherever the boat is currently pointing. Meaning it needs a reference in order to make the move, north/south/east/west is irrelevant to the Ipilot, it simply needs to know which way you are pointing in order to make the correct move. So further from the TM would make the system more accurately determine attitude. Garmin 1: If that picture of the wire hanging out of the fuse is how the current unit is powered, then I would not bother splicing into that for the new Garmin. I would make a more permanent connection to 12v. You will have to choose where. 2: My Garmin Echomap plus 73sv has a 3A fuse, so two of them drawing 6A total should be well within the limitations of the wire. There should be an inline fuse in the power cable that Garmin gave you, that will tell you what the correct fuse should be, should also be in the manual as well.

Well, I guess that all depends on where the wires go through. I will say that all of my wires were either behind aluminum panels that needed rivets drilled out and removed to get to, or encapsulated in the two part expanding foam that the manufacturer used when the boat was first built. I had to rip out most of the foam so rigging new wiring was as easy as laying it in there then pouring new foam. If I was keeping the old foam, I imagine I could have put a slice in the foam to lay the wire in, like putting in one of those invisible dog fences, or using a long drill bit and drilling a channel. But I am unfamiliar with fiberglass construction, so I don't really know if your boat has the foam in the cavities.

When I restored my boat, I used these connectors I found on ebay, now granted, I rewired the whole boat so at that point, the hassle of building the connectors was minor: https://www.delcity.net/store/Deutsch-DT-Series-Plugs/p_821870.h_821871.r_IF1003?mkwid=s8Myre8ik&crid=38094426869&mp_kw=&mp_mt=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5vK28In72QIVClqGCh3lDwQqEAQYAiABEgKHsfD_BwE They are waterproof, and I soldered them in, since I used the same pump manufacturer for bilge and livewell, and kept the pumps the "male" end of the connectors, I can switch pumps around quickly in case the bilge pump fails. I used the same type of pump that you have in your picture for bilge and livewell, so the motor/impeller cartridge can come out of either housing and go right into the other housing.

That wire feeds 12v to the outboard controller, and possibly some other functions at the console. I wouldn't think fixing the blown fuse would make something work that wasn't working before the fuse blew. If you have a DVOM it should be easy enough to check continuity in different places to isolate the break that is keeping your controller from grounding out the CDI box. If you ground the CDI out with a jumper to a good ground, and the motor shuts off, you can rule out the CDI box like you already mentioned. If the problem is on the black wire side of the circuit that might explain some random things not working. Dielectric grease does a great job of keeping moisture out once you get the terminals/plugs cleaned up. If you haven't already, maybe have a peek in the outboard controller at the ignition switch itself to see if there is evidence of heat damage or arcing. How many wires are coming off the cranking battery? Just the wires going to the outboard, or are there others? The majority of "house" power to the boat, pumps, lights etc, should be getting 12v from the battery, and not getting their power from that wire, the stator/alternator isn't really designed for that much load, that wire is mainly for 12v power to the controller for starting/ignition signal, and possibly the gauges/gauge back lighting or other minor current draws. A lot of times, over the years, people add things and use the easiest 12v they can find, but that wire isn't meant to handle much, and every load that gets added to it has the potential to steal amps that should be used to charge the cranking battery when the outboard is running.

Sounds like I'll have better fishing than I do now, thanks guys. I'm getting excited! Year round fishing is possible here in PA, but it's not all that enjoyable in the winter ice, for me anyway. TRF

That sounds great, thanks guys. The LMB situation here in PA is not great, so it's good to hear it is better there.

Like the title states, my family and I are relocating to the Durham/Raleigh area, and I was wondering what the Bass fishing was like there and surrounding areas? I have a 17ft aluminum bass boat, and also like to shore fish ponds and rivers/creeks if I don't have the time to get out the boat. Thanks for any help/advice you have TRF

Looking good, when I was working on my project boat/trailer, I got a heck of a lot of satisfaction out of the work I did to the trailer. I guess it was because of the drastic improvement from the surface rust and junk bunk boards and carpet, lights etc, to the black paint, bunks, lights, winch, jack, knowing the wiring was right and it all was going to last.

I have two "planet fitness" duffel bags that I found can fit five 3700 plano boxes each (similar to what Catt posted, but enclosed), they hold the bulk of all my tackle, one box for topwaters, one for jigs, one for terminal tackle, etc, etc, those stay in the car on shore trips. I will load up a 3600 box or two with baits that I know are producers, that fits in my shoulder bag that I carry for shore fishing. If I'm going out on my boat I take everything, but shore fishing, or fishing on a friends boat, I travel much lighter.

Yeah, I'm done for the year, all the shore fishing that I frequent for a quick fix are not producing. And the boat is winterized so getting that out is not an option without a lot of work and rework. Time to clean and lube the rods and reels and organize tackle to see what's missing and needs replaced. I'm in PA

I have used the G flex epoxy and I recommend it highly. It bonds and shapes and flows into cracks/rivets very well. Depending on the size of your dent, it could get expensive. It must be painted over to protect it from the sun. I don't have any experience with the others, I did use what is called short hair reinforced filler (bondo) above the water line on things like the corner caps on the top rear, and the sheeting on the bow, and that is holding up great so far as well.

That does look like a slammin deal, and it has the features I want, and a bigger screen than I was looking at. A google search shows it for 450 at BP right now, but when you go to BP webside it says it encountered a problem. I call Shenanigans. TRF

Thanks for the advice guys, @IndianaOutdoors, The Helix series is compatible with Autochart, correct? It looks like it is, if so the helix series might be a good fit for me. I'll have to check out the Garmin, thanks again guys.

Hi all, there is a lot of information out there and a lot of different vernacular so I wanted to try to get some clarification. For my river Smallmouth fishing, I am looking at a unit with side imaging, like the Humminbird Helix 5si gps. This will be the majority of my fishing, maybe 60%, so traditional sonar type of features won't do me much good, since realistically most of my fishing will be in less than 10ft of water. I also sometimes will fish in some of the local reservoirs, maybe 40% of the time. When doing this I would like to be able to see bottom contours so I can start learning to fish deep. So the question is, what units will do this for me with the best value. It looks like some units can make their own contour maps, others use a chip. As long as my home reservoirs are on the chip, that is the cheaper option from what I can tell? Small home resevoirs are: Lake Redman, Lake Williams, Lake Marburg, Lake Octoraro, Muddy run. If those are on the chip, that would be great, if not then the chip wont do me much good. I don't really know how to find the available bodies of water on the chips, like navionics, lakemaster, etc. If I can only get them by "autocharting" them, then I guess the extra cost is going to be worth it. Thanks for any help you can offer. TRF

I have a 1984 Landau Magnum TR (Very similar to a Bass Tracker of that era). I would say that the quality of the boat was good compared to other boats of it's day, but mine was in very rough shape so I needed to do a lot of work. There is a thread around somewhere. I also didn't find much of anything on the internet about them when I was contemplating it. Landau only makes "luxury pontoon boats" these days. Here's how I see your possibilities: 1: The hull and trailer is good, the electronics are relatively new and of good quality, and working, the deal is good (at least compared to prices in my area). 2: The hull and trailer is good, but electronics are old and you wont be happy with them for long if even working. Electronics start around 100 and only go up. Used could save you some money. Deal is still decent. 3: The hull and or trailer is not good, still could be a good deal if you can do any and all work to repair. If you can't, I would walk and just buy new. If electronics are old, don't let the seller try to use it to price it higher. Small things add up quick, new batt for electronics, trailer needs rewired, new winch, and on, and on, and on........ Alumacraft 14ft jon $740 Jon boat trailer $500 Lowrance hook 3 $100 battery $100 cheap seats $40 Misc wiring, etc $20 That's the retail cost to buy new, what he is selling used. TRF

I'm not so sure I agree with all of this. Your assertion that deep cycle batteries are made to give max amps at one time is incorrect. Cranking batteries give high amperage's in bursts, measured in terms like "cranking amps" or "Cold cranking amps". But they don't do well with long/deep amperage draws, they can do it, but the number of discharge/recharge cycles you can draw it down is very limited, like half a dozen or so and it won't come back. Deep cycle batteries are made to draw down in lower amperage's, measured in terms like Amp-Hours. They can be discharged/recharged many more times and still recover, though there is a limit to the number of times. I'm not real sure if they could/should provide the short bursts to crank a starter, that's beyond my knowledge. I too would use my car battery in place of my boat cranking battery, probably not in place of a trolling battery though since there is a very good chance it might kill it. Edit: I went to google to make sure I wasn't peddling BS. I never even knew there was such a thing as a Marine Cranking Battery VS Auto cranking battery. There is a ton of conflicting info on whether there is any appreciable difference between a marine VS auto cranking battery. Other than the 3/8 threaded studs that would not be on an auto battery of course. Supposedly the case and internals are more robust due to anticipated vibration issues in a boat. Interesting question, thanks for leading me towards learning something new. TRF

Funny you should say that, I made a fishing buddy the day he dropped off my new trolling motor. I was out working on the boat all day and when that showed up I was pumped!

You can't joke around with the wife over the amount of shoes she has, for fear she will start counting your rod/reel combos.............. Continue.

In your case there is a strong chance that the fixture itself or bulb is bad. You could just change it, but troubleshooting it properly might save you some time, money and frustration. TRF

Do you have a test light, or DVOM? Just a matter of knowing which wires should have 12v, and which should be grounded. Then test for 12v, and a good path to ground. If wiring is good, then the bulb or fixture is bad, as mentioned.

It is easy enough to test for voltage at the wires coming from the truck to prove that the truck wiring is good. What type of plug does your trailer/truck use? When you find out, use Google for a wiring diagram for your trailer plug type, and assuming the truck wiring is good, it should be easy to figure out which color wire is causing your problems in the trailer. As far as fixing the wire, or rewiring the trailer, usually when you buy a light kit, it comes with wiring. Its really a no brainier to just run the all new wiring. Not a hard job at all. I suggest using solder and shrink tubing rather than crimp splices. Harbor Freight has good marine shrink tubing, it has sealant that melts to a waterproof seal when you shrink the tubing. That will go a long way towards helping things last since the LEDs are water tight, then your connections are also water tight and the only significant point of failure is the plug to the tow vehicle or wires chafing over time. And the advice given on grommets and cleaning the trailer to truck plug every so often will keep things going for many many years. TRF

With fishing, it seems as though the spread between top of the line money spent, and basic money spent, is absolutely huge, but they both have the potential to still produce the same. Angler skill plays such a huge role in fish caught. I can find 10 guys that say they like fishing because it's relaxing and it's not much money. And I can find another 10 guys say they like it because it's relaxing , but that have 50 thousand or more invested in fishing. Hopefully they are both happy. Like the story goes between the famous photographer, and the famous writer: In an encounter between famous novelist Ernest Hemingway and famous photographer Ansel Adams, Hemingway is purported to have praised Adams’ photographs, saying, "You take the most amazing pictures. What kind of camera do you use?" Adams frowned and then replied, "You write the most amazing stories. What kind of typewriter do you use?"