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GreenGhostMan

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Everything posted by GreenGhostMan

  1. I've always used two o-rings crossed so the hook is perpendicular to the senko. Not sure if this helps with hookups, but I've always done it.
  2. The johnny morris carbonlite was my first baitcaster... Made learning to cast with them a breeze. My only complaint was the anti-reverse started going out before my first season using it was even over. I'd set the hook and would end up with a mess in my spool. Made me turn to Lew's for my other baitcasters.
  3. I own both as well and prefer speed spool over the PQ... not even close.
  4. another vote for 12lb yo-zuri hybrid.
  5. I actually tried fluorocarbon for the first time over the weekend and had a little trouble getting good distance without minor backlashes. I was using 12 and 16lb sunline sniper on a Lews Tournament MB. I fiddled with the brakes some, but was never able to get comfortable with it. I used KVD line & lure the night before too. I guess it just takes practice. If I don't get better at it, I'm gonna have to go back to braid.
  6. Try the eco pro tungsten swing shad. They are very similar to the swing impact fats in swimming action, but I've found them to be more durable. Tackle warehouse has them. They are also half the price.
  7. 7'2" MH-Reg Daiwa Tatula Lew's Tournament MB 7.5:1 Black Cavitron buzzbait 6th sense 3/8 swim jig in dark water special color & 3.8" green pumpkin eco pro swing shad Green Pumpkin senko
  8. Probably won't ever throw an alabama rig... Just doesn't seem right to me.
  9. Depends on the vehicle program. Some are only a few hundred a month and others are several thousands a month. A particular product will last on average 3-5 years, never to be produced for mass production again.
  10. No need to be defensive. And I'm not saying lure companies shouldn't charge what they charge. Heck, if someone is going to pay it, then charge it. That's good business. Just making observations. I'm going to continue buying crankbaits. Just stating that my opinion is they appear to be making good money off them. Even while believing that, I can't make them myself, so I'm going to buy them.
  11. Yea. I love the MB too. I have a couple on other setups. nice reel!
  12. That is all true... But my company builds and manufactures a 1000x more complicated piece of equipment than a crankbait and sell it for half the price of a megabass or lucky craft crankbait. This includes an electronic motor, pulley systems, anti rust coatings, welding, injection molding parts, 2-3 years of R&D, months long quality testing and continuous testing throughout production, and American labor costs. I'm just not buying it.
  13. I never said the only cost was the resin in the mold. I just said I don't think the other costs add up to the difference. But how many wiggle wart blanks do you think are produced each year? I would guess tens of thousands, maybe more. The packaging for those has to be pennies. We pay pennies per for much more sophisticated packaging. There is no tungsten in them. And they do not have high end hooks. The paint jobs are very simple. When you are talking about high volume production, the cost of everything is minimized because it is spread out over a vast number of pieces. Maybe a lot of the cost is advertising and sponsorship money spent by the companies?
  14. Wasn't sure where to start this thread... may need to be moved. I was thinking the other day about the crazy prices on some crankbaits. I'm in the automotive industry and we have some injection molding machines that produce plastic components for some of our finished goods. Most of the plastic components require 50x the resin per piece compared to crankbaits and still only cost pennies to produce. I would assume that plastic crankbait blanks are pumped out in mass quantities by the lure manufacturers. I would also assume the resin used in crankbaits is of lesser quality than plastic automotive components that are exposed to higher exertions and more rigorous activity. This leads me to believe that the crankbait blanks themselves should only cost pennies. I have a hard time believing the paint jobs, assembly, hooks and overhead per crankbait amounts to $10-11 (Spro little john). I understand that the price of something is whatever the consumer is willing to pay... Maybe there is an added cost I'm missing and someone that is more familiar with lure manufacturing can enlighten me. But geez, seems like us fisherman are getting robbed!
  15. They are good baits, just haven't fished them enough. I love their CRS. Awesome colors and action for only $3.99. Their small profile CRM is also sweet (Medium diving squarebill also for only $3.99). Sometimes you can catch certain colors on sale for .98 cents or $1.98, which is a crazy value. I'd like to know the manufacturer that produces them and see what other brands are built in the same factory. Not meaning to hijack the thread... sorry.
  16. I also tried the chatterbait for the first time last season and I didn't have any luck on them either. I'm in Kentucky. Caught fish on spinnerbaits though.
  17. Although I have them numbered, they are in no particular order with regards to favoritism. 1 - Super Spook Jr (baby bass) 2 - Black cavitron buzzbait 3 - Senkos (black blue flake) 4 - Z-Man finesse worms (green pumpkin) 5 - LiveTarget hollow body frog (green sienna) 6 - 6th sense swim jig (3/8 oz; dark water special; 3.8" green pumpkin impact fat trailer) 7 - Spro fat john 60 (cell mate) 8 - Eco Pro Tungsten Rapid Fire spinnerbait (chart white; 3/8 oz) sentimental value 9 - Pre Rapala wiggle wart (natural brown crayfish) 10 - Z-man 1/10 oz shroomz head and half a zinkerz (black blue flake)
  18. I have a few of the 5/8 RT by H20. I just bought them recently, so I haven't fished them a whole lot. I think I've only caught one fish with them and it was on the ghost shad color. They cast well and have good vibration.
  19. Our setups are pretty close. Dobyns Fury 733 Lews LFS 6.8:1 Yo-Zuri hybrid 12lb
  20. My must haves if I were starting over. 3/0 EWG hooks Yum dingers in green pumpkin or black blue flake (yamamoto senkos are best but nearly triple the $$) super spook Jr. black buzzbait KVD 1.5 squarebill (I'd actually go with spro fat john 60, but those are harder to find and more $$) rapala DT6 chart/white spinnerbait black/blue swimjig wiggle wart booyah padcrasher (would go with livetarget hollow body frog, but again, more $$)
  21. I was going to do it in my garage, but I think I'll opt for outside now. Going to go check out tackle underground now. Thanks for the input guys!
  22. Try the ned rig. Sometimes this is the only thing that will work for me during the winter.
  23. Lot of standing timber. There are also some road beds. I plan on heading down this spring too. Haven't fished it since I got a kayak and got back into bass fishing, so it's been a while.
  24. Alright, wow. Definitely going to get a mask then. Making me consider taking the microwave outside to melt the plastic. Got another question. As long as I don't have any elaztech baits mixed in, will the baits come out ok if I'm melting together baits from multiple different companies? I'm assuming that companies probably use different types of plastic. Maybe one type of plastic melts at a lower temp and I could burn it trying to get the higher temp plastics to melt? Or the plastics won't bond together correctly?

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