Wayne P.

Yes, IF the transducer is unused and the mount is still in an unopened package. There is a cost difference for that exchange--about $75

Time running the outboard going between fishing locations is time not fishing. You go faster to lessen the time not fishing. It ain't complicated, quite basic common sense.

Me neither--"been there done that"

With the XHS mount you have to have it attached backwards--the mount not above the transducer. That is why you have remove some of the plastic to you can get the bolts in the holes. I already tried all the possible positions to duplicate what you did with the Compact SI transducer. The alternative is to attach the mount to the vertical surface where the livewell intake and drain is. Another alternative is to get the Transducer Shield and Saver bracket, attach that under the step and then put the transducer in that bracket. I use that bracket for trolling motor mounting the HDSI.

Same for tidal waters and barnacles.

That is NOT the HD transducer that you referred to---- XHS 9 HDSI 180 T That is the Compact SI transducer which has the all plastic mount---- XNT 9 SI 180 T That will work like you have it with no modifications.

You would have to grind/file some of the plastic block to get it to fit on the transducer. Then there is the issue of the kink in the cable if you try to put that much under the step. You could add a spacer between the mount and hull to get more cable clearance and have most of the transducer under the step. No you won't have to reinforce the hull, it is plenty sturdy. Just checked it out with one of my spares.

One more thing, Transducer Shield and Saver has a more sturdy spring loaded transom mount to protect the transducer better than the mount that comes in the box.

You put the transducer at the bow on the bottom of the trolling motor. Get the proper one for that application--a trolling motor PUCK. For the console unit, if you want depth readings when running on plane, the transducer has to be at or just below the BOTTOM of the hull. Follow the installation instructions.

MSRP is $270. Check Ebay

The power to the trolling motor should be a red and black wire ONLY. Those connect to the red and black trolling motor power cord conductors. To get 24V there has to be a jumper wire between the positive post on one battery to the negative post on the other battery. Then the black wire is connected to the vacant Negative post and the red wire is connected to the vacant Postive post. That is a series connection that adds 12V + 12V to get 24V. If you do not have 24V accessories at the bow, any other wires should ONLY be connected to ONE of those batteries. Not even that if the boat is wired properly/safely. Does the boat have an outboard and bilge pump, lights, etc???? What are those connected to? Was a cheap install done and you only have two batteries on board that share engine starting, accessories and the trolling motor?

What brand and model trolling motor? You stated two wires and listed four wires. What "connector"? How many batteries are on the boat?

Just connect the charger leads to each battery + and - . Current flows between the positive and negative terminals on each separate battery. You do not have to disconnect the jumper wires. You do not get 36V until you complete the series connection with your trolling motor power switch.

Did you read the forum rules before you did this post?????? http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/forum-30/announcement-5-read-me-before-posting-this-is-critical/

I have been using the Uni-Uni Knot for many years. This weekend I tried the knot shown in the video and it worked great. Passes through micro-guides very well. http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/156132-another-easy-knot-to-tie-for-leaders/

LOL, no I am just a nobody that knows how to use my stuff and others stuff too sometimes.

You can turn off the digital readouts in the full screen SI view only--no you cannot change the sizes. That setting is in the Sonar Menu titled SI Readouts.

He is using 1100 series Humminbirds at the Delta this week. Pictures on BASS http://www.bassmaster.com/slideshow/elites-hunt-big-bass-sacramento There was another picture of him with Humminbird ONIX units a week or so ago.

It has nothing to do with the lense color. LCR screens have the pixels aligned at 90 degrees either from left top to right bottom or right top to left bottom. Your polarized lenses are aligned horizontal-that is how they reduce reflected glare. When looking at the screen directly, you are loosing about 1/2 of the light transmission. If you tilt your head either left or right, you can align your glasses with the display so it will look brighter. That last time I checked a lot of sonar displays for the polarization affect this is what I discovered: Humminbird and Lowrance displays are aligned from top right to bottom left. Garmin displays are the opposite. If you have your L or H display to the right of the console you tend to tilt your head to the right when viewing the display. That will make the display darker. To offset that, tilt your display some with the right side lower and your screen will darken less. The more tilt, the less light you loose.

You can't, you need a HDS Gen 2 or Gen 2 Touch and Go Free accessory to do that.

When I got my PT 170 TX, the idiots at Bass Pro couldn't correctly set the tach for the motor. I got the setting on line and did it myself after taking it back three times to fix it. Their service is only as good as the individual performing the service. That goes for any dealer.

The app is Navionics Boating.

The icon is SONAR. You need the transducer for it.

If you did not get either a 50/200 kHz or a 83/200 kHz transducer too, you will not have traditional sonar.

No such thing as "traditional down Imaging" Traditional sonar is 2D. You have to purchase either a HDI transducer or a LSS transducer to get Down Scan. Those units are 2D out of the box if you purchase one with a transducer, either 50/200 kHz or 83/200 kHz.