Wayne P.

Sure some electronics technoloy will help eliminate unproductive areas in shallow water. This screen shot covers 100' in less than 2' depths. It shows bass spawning beds, a creek channel with fish in it, and stumps: This screen shot covers 200' in less than 4' depths and shows weeds on the right side that are near the shore: This screen shot covers 80' in less than 4' where I was checking along a dollar pad field for spawning bass:

I saw several 3 wire rigs in stores when I was in Tennessee last week. This is one of them: http://www.***.com/Yumbrella_3_Wire_Rig/descpage-YB3WR.html

I have the app on a couple of smart phones and a couple of tablets. I use my $$$$ sonar/GPS units for fishing.

I look for fish with my electronics, find them, and then fish for them. As I am fishing, I am looking for more. I prefer to be fishing where the fish are, not just hoping where I cast that a fish is there. Rarely am I within casting distance of any "bank".

You don't have to soak your glove finger, just dampen the surface a little with your tongue. That is what I did. My finger didn't get wet and the glove surface moisture was gone in a couple of minutes.

I saw a post on another site that a guy just wears regular gloves and gets the tip of a finger wet to operate the touch screen. I tried that with cotton gloves and it works with my tablets and smartphone. The dry fingers don't.

George Perry was "power fishing" when he caught the world record largemouth bass in 1932.

There are several unreleased sonar models on the Bass Pro web site and are shown as "Available for Backorder" which means they will be available soon. Some marine electronics dealers are taking pre-orders for new models. That is just how Bass Pro does it.

My preference is an Octopus hook and NOT the circle style. They can be rigged weedless and open point.

A basic unit (2D sonar) will show depth and the shape of the bottomn plus stuff suspended in the water column. At a minumum you would have a grey scale display and as you add features, the cost increases. This is how a color display would show the bottom when you cross over a creek channel: Properly adjusted, it will show stuff in the water column like fish:

Image quality is the best in the industry. Just smaller than the bigger units with less image quality.

For Side Imaging, BIGGER is better. I have a unit with that size display, used it for a couple of years before getting larger display units. You may want to consider the Helix 5 Side Imaging unit due out next month--- wider display.

No it does not CHIRP or Tweet. Do a web search for CHRIP to see what that is all about. It's the latest "buzz" word in freshwater sonar units. From what I have seen posted on some sites, the new GEN 3 Lowrances will have CHIRP built-in.

No one has one. Dealers do not get them until next month.

With the hook point in the thickest part of the worm, that is just more plastic that can interfere with hook penetration. The hook in the video is a wide gap hook, longer shaft and it makes the whole rig more stiff. That is why I use the Octopus hook so both ends of the worm have flexibility. "It ain't rocket science"

It is just a copy of the Weedless Wacky Rig with the hook inserted on the opposite direction. Actually less effective since the hook point is in the heaviest part of the worm instead of the tail section. Poor hook choice also.

For bass finesse fishing with shakey head and wacky presentations, I use 8# mono equivelent diameter superlines and 20# fluorocarbon leader of about 3'-4' in length if I decide to use a leader (for the added weight). I have 8-10 setups that I may have with that combo. For dropshot, I may use 14# fluorocarbon so I can tie the Palomar knot with the smaller hooks, but still use the 8# mono equivelent diameter superlines. Uni-uni knot connection, typically 6 turns on both lines when forming the knots. Properly tightened and tag ends cut flush with the knots--no glue needed. For my micro guide rods, I use 8 turns on the superline side to get a more tapered knot so it passes through the guides more easily when casting. Edit: forget to add----as far as brands, that has been discussed many times, use what you are comfortable with.

Exactly, fish don't have a calendar/season,. they adjust to the current conditions.

The cheapest way is with a 1"X 2" board and a "C" clamp. I used the shaft and mount of a transom mount trolling motor.

You can make any unit portable if you want. I have a portable setup for a 10" display Humminbird Side Imaging unit to use for demos:

While this video is for a more sofisticated unit, the principal is still the same. You have a display and a transducer. .https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mS4twSOs3DM The unit does include installation instructions. If you want an easy setup for ice fishing you can exchange the transom model for a ice fishing type that has a float. Just look through the transducer types on the Humminbird web site. An even better setup for ice fishing is the carry case with battery/charger and transducer designed for that purpose. All those accessories add more cost though.

Yep, that is pretty much it. The unit comes with a transom mount type transducer. Most transom mounted transducers have 20' cables to accommdate most size boats and there are extensions available for larger craft.

The PMax uses a single frequency 200 kHz transducer. It is not sofisticated enough to use more advanced transducers. Sofistication adds cost.

http://www.basspro.com/Zoom-Finesse-Worm-43/4/product/7501/

Zoom Finesse worms first, Zoom Trick worms second and Senko/knockoffs a distanct third. Thousands of catches have shown me that bass like the finesse worms the best.