TOXIC

I'm more picky about my Crappie fishing. I've seen it first hand, baits with a little Smelly Jelly in the right color and scent waaaaay outperform the same baits without it.

OK let me qualify......If you are fishing spawning areas during the spawn. My point being that the beds you see are a small fraction of the actual beds being utilized. Not all fish spawn at once either....smallmouth in St Clair for example spawn in waves. We have planned our trips there for 13 years to intersect the first and second wave because you can then catch them in all phases...Pre-spawn, post-spawn and actually on the beds.

Google. Just so you know, if you are fishing during the spawn and catching fish, chances are you got them off a bed even if you didn't see it. So many factors play into spawning. I based my comments on following Michigan's recent opening up their season for catch and release for the first time in years. They performed a lot of studies and concluded that it caused no harm. The meat fishing season is still regulated because if you want to make sure a fish doesn't spawn, that's the way to do it. There's the next debate. Keep a limit for the table of not?

Lots of scientific studies show bed fishing does no harm. As for morals and ethics, that's an individual thing.

OR an oversexed male Swan protecting it's territory!!

May not look pretty but when I had my Bass Hunter, I just used the reflective squares from Wal Mart and they stuck fine. In Virginia, the only time you have to register them is if you are going to "power" them with an OB or TM.

Wish I had the pics. Was towing from Lake St Clair back to Virginia and we were in West Virginia when a deer ran out from the woods and went behind my truck and tried jumping over a Ranger Z520. Almost made it but caught it's feet on the drivers console electronics mount, flipped over and hit the cowling of a Yamaha 250 straight on. $3,000 repair/replace for the cowling.

Better an otter than a dang Cormorant.

I see your point. Bass "bite" though and I like that with an EWG the bait gets compressed farther giving more room for the hook to do it's job. Maybe just a confidence thing though.

I think you will see that "managed" fisheries will outproduce "natural" bodies given time and smart management.

Bargain hunters or those who I consider "experienced" fishermen and women will not frequent BPS or Cabela's for their sales UNLESS...it's for product that they use everyday (Gamakatsu/Line/weights, etc.) For the newest gear the big box stores normally don't carry it and rarely put it on sale. I have been working the Spring and Fall events at BPS and Cabela's for over 20 years. Now there are some non store branded baits that they do carry that if they are your choice in plastics/cranks etc., then you can get some deals. BPS carries a lot of Zoom plastics and Strike King product for example. These stores are more destination locations than serious tackle outlets.

As has been said, look at the above water topography and follow the natural lines into the water. If you want to simplify, take a look at the contour lines on your GPS then go to where you think the bass are holding (steep banks/flats/channel bends/points and just fish it.

Look at a paper map of a bigger lake. Break it down into smaller areas. Fish those smaller areas until you can put a pattern together and then duplicate it.

Trusty Zebco 303's to start. Spinning reel when they could handle more accurate casting. Baitcasters when they got proficient with the spinning gear.

Never iced up this year (other than some skim ice) here in Virginia and with a warming trend the Potomac started to turn on. Now with a cold streak, I'll be heading back to the hot side of Anna where the water temp never drops to freezing. Power plant discharge lake. River is low to mid 40's. Hot side is 50 to mid 60's.

EWG is for better hooksets IMHO. I rarely use straight shank hooks anymore regardless of the thickness of the plastic. An EWG allows the bait to compress on the hookset and results in better hookups. Usually in the top of the mouth.

Unfortunately, Gary has shut down the beef side of his business.

I won't put up the picture because it is too embarrassing but on a trip to Lake Lanier, I spooned a bluegill out of 75 feet of water. One of only 3 fish caught over 3 days.

I want to fish them all!! C'mon retirement!! 13 years ago I had the chance to go to a bucket list lake....Lake St Clair and fish with some local guys I met on the internet. I have been going back for a week for the last 13 years straight. We rent a house on an island (Harsens) and the group has grown to 10 people, we have dock space at the cottage for the boats and we spend a week straight jerkin toad smallmouth. Wouldn't trade the trip for anything.

My light bulb moment was when I stood on the deck of my boat and see fish on my finder in 60 feet of water then watch my lure (dropshot) drop through the water column and finally watch the fish move to my lure and I set the hook, I knew I was going to have to learn to trust my electronics. Before I used them more to identify cover and structure more than the fish themselves but as the electronics improved and I upgraded, I now use them to find fish.

Want to read horror stories? Just ask the question about towing with a cheap cover. There's a world of difference between towing with a cheap cover and using one for storage. I have the high dollar Ranger Factory towable ratchet equipped cover for my Z21 and I still won't tow with it on.

Sounds like you got a deal and got away clean. With a truthful seller that's good. "If" you had some one who was trying to hide problems then you could have been stuck with some additional repair costs. General rule of thumb is that a seller is always trying to hide something. LOL!! So, my checklist is easy and I have never been burned. Depending on how much you know about boats then you may want to take someone with you that does. Here's how I approach the big $$ repair items when looking: 1. Big motor. That's easy, it goes to a certified mechanic (at my cost even if I don't buy) for a full checkup. 2. Transom/Hull. Tilt the motor up and put your weight on the motor foot lifting up and down. Should have no movement in the transom. Check hull for gouges/damage/repairs. If a glass boat, check for hull blisters. 3. Trailer. Tires/Brakes/Bearings/lights check. That's going to identify any big $$ repairs. A water test will help with the motor check (running under load) and will also verify all pumps/livewells/lights/battery/gauges/through hull fittings/plumbing etc., work as designed. Check bilge for dryness before launching and after the test run. I never drive the boat on a water test. Always the registered owner. In my mind every step I eliminate puts more risk on me as the buyer. Depends on the boat/seller on how involved I get. I have yest to be burned but I have walked away from some deals.

Is wind or current a factor? Do you fish all day? Do you have to cut through weeds or grass? All things that will drain a TM battery quick. I've never heard anyone say they wished they had a smaller TM.

In Virginia if you have an inflatable you have to have a traditional PFD on board "IF" you take the inflatable off. If you leave it on all the time (even when the big motor is not running or you are up front fishing) you will be fine.

Opps....it's the Zako. I have them rigged on a couple different "bladed Jigs" and the action is impressive.