fish'n Jim

Latest "fad" to the lure arsenal. The verdict is not in yet but the i-gen youth has adopted it. They are way expensive for what you get, like most things since Johnny stamped out competition. I did catch a spot on one the other day "trying" some types out. It's the new kid on the block so everyone is rushing to add to their product lines. I wish I had a dollar for every 'hottest lure" to hit the market over the past decades. I find about the time you figure out to catch them on it, they change. So stock up while U can and kept your old stuff that works day in/day out as eventually they'll change those too. Colors seem limited but when they're only biting certain colors, as long as they offer yours, no issue. I was up on Champlain a numbers of years ago, on the "shelf" across/below from the pulp mill below Ty. I was floating a 10" power worm with the current through the weeds and into the trough and hooked up early. A pike had come from behind in the weeds and swallered the whole length of the rig. The hook was in the gullet/sphincter, only line showing. I removed the hook and pulled out the worm, whole, from it's stomach. So a small morsel like this is no match for the toothy ones. Would have cut the line had it not been leadered up. I would suspect the action was hampered but these things don't do much. There more or less designed to be thrown in a fish's face on the live scope to get a bite. After I bought a fancy pair of nippers to cut the hook shafts before I would release, I've just went to fish'n barbless the last many years since I quit competing. No sense harming the fish or letting them struggle trying to deal with a gut hook deal. Nothing new to us trout, etc. guys, but not adopted for basses much. It makes it quite easy to release a gut hooked bass without bleeding, if you have forceps. Less post release mortality expected when there's no blood. I drop shot a lot more as I age and some just inhale it and by the time you reel 'em, they got it digested. I was pulling TX rigged mag lizards out of spots this spring and they were still trying to digest them as I was removing the hook. So be kind to the finny friends as best we can, regardless of specie, they give us pleasure for a few seconds, but they have to deal with the scars pof just being hungry. As the catch and release pressure and water pollution out there is enormous now and the sportsmanship is declining with all the competition and electronics. I see more floaters than I'd like to as I travel lakes. I don't care to see these "pros" flopping fish on the carpet or EVA foam with braid, heavy line, etc. monkey see... They lose skin slime, they need to prevent bacteria. I see lots of infected fish these days. Anything above about 3 # needs to be lifted carefully to not damage the mouth/jaw also. Fish are designed to be supported 360 by water, air doesn't provide skeletal support. It's just my view that since B.A.S.S. was taken over/changed direction several times and the competitive aspect launched to the youth, the first "S" or even the periods are no longer spoken. Even conservation only gets a small 3" article out of a whole issue. We can always do better...

Thanks. I just checked this out and it's $229+ and requires $130+ of steering locks to prevent the side to side flop, I wrote about with the similar style worthless one that came with it. An old style transom saver is a lot cheaper option but "pita" to remove and stow. I'm supposed to be older and wiser at my age... The motor mate is wider and connects on the acorn nuts on the lower unit and externally to the motor mount and prevents side to side. I'm narrowing in on a bracket solution but will take some fabrication. But thanks for any continued suggestions and leads to off the shelf options.

When I bought this used 520c with a 250 SHO, the older/first version, it had some mickey mouse block device for a "motor toter". I had to stop at BPS on the way home to buy a 'motor mate', it was flopping so bad with that device. I had the motor mate on my 225 Yammie with no issues for more than a decade, except the occasional lost tip which they've been replacing for me under warranty. I'm on my 4th new motor mate($200 ea) on the SHO and this one has only been on there a few weeks and the rubber tips cracked and one side came loose and bent the bracket. When the bracket bends, I buy a new one. I've contacted MM about this many times for last 3-4 years and discussed. They tell me their redesigning, but nothing coming. I guess the market is small and the newer outboard is lighter. I had the T&T rebuilt this winter and it seems mates wear and tear has gotten worse since. Maybe there was more "give" when the worn T&T unit was on it? I haven't seen anything as good as the motor mate after decades of buying transom savers. So I like the concept, but it's not going in the right direction. It's also got an Atlas hydraulic jack plate so the motor is hanging back way past the trailer. I'm working on a new re-design myself, I understand(engineer) where the issues and failures are, but won't be complete and then there's always time to test/debug it. I'm expecting to go north this summer and it's 23-2500 miles of trailering so want to be well along with a solution. Any suggestions or similar experiences?

I think the fishtank is on to something and we're in agreement. We've had an unusual spring this year, that plays, but I've seen this pattern before, just not this bad. I'm delayed starting the year with outboard issues and cold weather. I started weekly trips mid FEB, once the light got better/boat done, and the water is quite colder and lower than normal. We usually get some spawn in Mar, but it's been sub '50 due to low water. Some years it won't get below low '50s. This week, it's all of a sudden 80s and redbuds? I'd been marking deeper bait moving back for weeks, but the bass weren't following. I wasn't getting bit B4 2:00 on moving baits and leaving by 5. I was in one colder cut at 1:00ish that was literally sparkling with baitfish all the way back, but no bass. With the full moon/longer day, I decided to stay later. The bass were moving on the bank after 5P and busting - way past tourney time. Vulnerable to moving baits. The locals were coming out too... I think all the FFS techniques, as all tourney/fishing pressure/weather has re-arranged their normal schedules/movements. Hartwell is huge but a major tourney haven. Every regional college angler did nothing else. I've had FFS gen 1 and now 2 for a few years, myself. I still struggle more than I used to. I'm not as steady as I was, with aging and arthritis, my stamina and techniques changed. I was able to figure it out. B4 2:00, let it sit and they'd hit it - an old cold water trick. Onto the spawn soon. Bucks are arranging accommodations. Girls are feeding heavy.

I feel your pain. The surgery is the small part, it's losing the fish'n time at our age. I'll be 73 in months, and still 'nudging" my boat over sometimes. I'll have to watch it, now - fare warned. Either I power it on and miss, or leave it short and winch, but winching is equally tough on us old guys. I use my foot for the final turn. This old Ranger #10 don't trailer as well behaved as my older Ranger #9. It's got a fixed winch stand and different bunks. Too tail heavy with the 1st gen SHO, etc. I recall when I had back surgery, I'd fished a OH river tourney on Sun. with a completely damaged L5 disk and partial L4. Couldn't let down my partner! I felt every wave and fished bent over. They cut me ASAP that week and during recoup fell into severe bass withdrawal. [My boat was at the dealer's and after surgery they called to let me know my boat was OK, their shop burned down but my boat was outside. (Owner was later indicted for arson)] I couldn't yet bend down all the way, but I had it with sitting around. I called my Ky pond fish'n buddy to come get me and take me. I caught and landed a 7 lber that day. Had 2 get on my knees in the mud to get it in, but made me feel wonderful! Cure all for the addicted? Something to look forward too besides rest and recoup. Take care. ps: I wiped out my prop Sat, giving way to and watching a ski boat idiot, so we didn't collide, not the graph, so it was another one of those expensive trips. Of course, "2 on order", no one stocks those crazy priced Yammie props. I'll have to use my refurbed 25P this week. I was planning to sell.(if anyone needs a T2 email me.) They changed design so they could charge more for a different thrust washer. I wanted to buy spare last year but that's when they changed over and everything was out of stock and delayed with all the mechanical repairs this winter. They'd bought Turbo, so they don't have much competition either. Live and learn, then we get old and forget all we learned????

Unfortunately, I just went through a fiasco about this. I keep a set in the boat for a squeaky handle or such, but some of it dried up and I had to restock for the bench. They used to give you a small bottle of oil with most reels, but that's been going away - cost cutters? All I can add is I use the Abu silicone reel grease(for decades), because if you dunk one, it's keeps it clean/coated and can shake out the water and keep fishn. Until you have time to tear it down. I don't like doing on the boat, because easy to lose a small part. Most of the reels are pot metal or aluminum and can pit with water gets to 'em. I went to buy some replacement oil and grease at the local BPS and the road was blocked, traffic backed up, I was late to another appt, so I had to turn back, so I ordered online. Apparently BPS doesn't carry the sil grease. I opted for ardent reel butter, but the package wasn't sealed right. The grease spurted out the bottom all over the bench. An omen => Go back to abu? I found another old stand by source for Abu silicone but still waiting. Thought it would be here today it's been a week, but track says Mon now???? USPS performance has not been very stellar the past year or so. It's 10 hours to drive from here to IN. I had a part shipped and it went on a sight seeing tour of the USA, even went passed my house once. Soon as I contacted the USPS claims, it showed up the next day???

Well I was surprised at the lack of flippin sticks available now. I didn't find any that were the collapsible handle style of yore, so far. Easily in the $4-500+ for a one piece. I don't like the one piece per se, it's hard to store in rod locker. I have some that mostly sit in the rod cradle collecting dust. Most were "out of stock" also. Maybe just time of year or lack of orders? Dee Thomas passed a few years back and I guess the rods he "blessed" are now passe as he is passed. Sign of old age. Flippin and pitching are two different 'casts' but can use the same equipment. I started skipping more because around here (SC) we have floating docks mostly. Not as much grass or lay downs as I'm used to. That's why I changed reels to the SP reels. That one powerbait trailer has a smooth back side and skips a 1/2 oz like a cormorant taking off. I was more thinking "jig fishing" were I needed more line so would change reel type but could use that same rod for flip, pitch, or cast. Rather than tying on and cutting off all the time, I like to keep 'em rigged ready to pick up and cast. The 8'er is a converted 7'6 HMG that broke and I put new rod top, reused the handle, and use exclusive for frogging w/ braid. I guess I wasn't clear. The extra length is helpful on those long tosses back in the slop. I'll keep looking and weighing options in the mean time. Thanks for the comments and potential leads.

A while back when the Lew's SP bait caster came out, I replaced all my remaining round reels I used for flippin. I carry two sticks, one for skipping jigs and one for pitching weightless/skipping plastic/c-rig. The SP's do a great job in reducing the "overruns". But there's not much 30# mono line length on one for dragging a jig in the deep or C-rigging. I'm contemplating adding a third stick to the line-up with a regular Lew's low slung HD reel. I have several sticks on the shelf from over the years that I bought and never cared for once the HMGs disappeared. I'm particular here. I'm convinced by 40 years of use, the old Fenwick HMGs are the best but those are long gone. I've nursed all mine this far, as testimony to how well suited they are. One broke and I replaced the top section and made a for braid 8' froggin rod out of it. Only round reel I still use because nothing casts braid like one. So the question posed is 2 parts; a) is FFS crowding out flipping methods, changing the market? I see all the younger contingent running around throwing minnow baits at FFS targets. I've been using FFS for some time now, second unit. Finally got it sorted, it's amazing. Answers questions I've had for a long time. Court still out if it hampers the bite. I know I've lost fish because I watched them hit lure on screen rather than feel them and react. ie: Learning curve. b) Who's makes a good 7'6" flippin stick these days? The "trend" has been the light exposed butt section and micro seats and not as heavy a rod. The secret is in the tip section. I could build one, but last time I investigated, it was way more money these days, and blanks sources have changed a lot and not at the local see and touch store. Online roulette only. I've returned to buying off the shelf the last 2 decades or so, but I was over at the local BPS the other day and they didn't even have one on the racks? Passe? .

Rather than dip, which I usually get too much paint on and sometimes the eye full, I'll sprinkle it all over after heat in the heat gun with a small cup or spoon. There's a heat gun tip that's rectangular and the bodies fit right on there/just lay it on. I collect to the overs for reuse. I don't care if it's not glossy, just coated all over, since it'll smooth out in the old toaster oven. You can re-apply, if it's not smooth. I guess if you do it enough, you get real good at it, how long to heat first, etc. I made a little steel rack to hang them on for the oven. Pieces of small scrap angle and file for grooves and a few bolts. I got paint on my regular oven rack once. Charge the body- and the paint+ (gun) is the pro way. Best for even thin coating. I'm probably due to make a batch of spinner bait bodies, so I'll check back/around for new paint, too. I like to use fresh/virgin lead and coat in clear right away to give than chrome look. About the only time I use color is on jig heads. I use to make the powder paint at one of my plants I was over. I was a specialty nylon.

I think what really started it circa '60-'70s, was you couldn't buy a good rod or a specialty rod with good ceramic guides then. They had agate which was brittle. cf; I could buy a Shakespeare glass 7' spinning rod for $2 which was a 'name' rod then. At least that's why I started. I was fishing Canada every summer and made my second rod for there. We were (ultra) light lining, 2,4,6 lb. Fenwick and Lamiglas were about the only suppliers of quality graphite freshwater blanks, until Loomis came on. Eagle claw got in on it for a while with glass and composite. Then there were imports, Lews, etc. Boron was a flash in the pan but was very good and I still have/use. Wish I could get some more boron blanks. Dale had some made as house brand and shopped in the far east - Fuji, etc. Now I don't even recognize most of the brands Mudpuppy sells. The off-the-shelf quality was awful too. That shakespeare broke in half. I was using mostly ABU's but they had stainless guides and 'eyes' line grooved real bad with light line. Doesn't take much of a knick to render 4lb test useless. Some of those still around here, too. This was about the time we were transitioning from glass to graphite. Somewhere around here I got both of Dale's books. Well, I got my lower unit back today, so first good day on the water, or if none, I'll go south(er).

I was doing the annual to get back on the water for New Years day but found the old cloudy/creamy lower unit lube. I'm out of commission til maybe later this week, if he gets all the parts. I normally do that myself, but the 4 strokes are a little different and I don't have the tools to "operate". Cost for tools which weren't that available pays for the local rebuilders labor. Shipping's been messed up since after XMAS. Hard to get outboard parts on time right now. I was delayed and he was delayed by shipper last week til this week. He called yesterday and needs another part, so who know when? They're only coming from one state over! Could almost walk that fast. It's getting cold again, so maybe a few more weeks, before I'm water "logged".

That only refers to the number of pixels on the screen(LCD), so the bigger the screen, the more pixels one needs at the same resolution. You're not going to see anything better than your xducr can discriminate. That has to do more with frequency, power, etc. Sometimes you can adjust the settings to sharpen the contrast to see better. But I believe the std now is 4K for video. 1920x1080 is called high definition(HD). I know my new tv is 4K and it's a different world than my old HD one. It allows more "shades" of colors and smaller pixels that improves resolution. With my livescope +, I can see fish swimming and their fins, and my drop shot rig. But it uses much more power than the older versions. I'm using 10 inch screens and they're more than adequate as the price point changes a lot after 12"s. The manufacturers know if they can support the viewing for the xducr, so it's not that different make to make. You'd have to do side by side, some say the 360 sideview is a compliment to FFS so you can compare what you're seeing against each device.

I've done this many time as I change electronics frequently. There's a format, I think it's GPX, that's general for waypts which most GPS can write and you can upload to any device. I've used this method for different brands and different generation devices. I got waypts back from in the '80s, pushing 300 now, on my new Garmins. I used them on Champlain last July after 11 years and there were still fish on some of those spots.

I go way back, we used to have Dale Clemon's custom tackle as "the" rod builder supplier. You can take a BBQ grill motor and put in a electrical box. Make an rod end holder out of a piece of BBQ rod and attach to a 2" PVC end cap. Drill 4 - 90 deg apart holes, thread for thumb screws, and put plastic tips on the ends of the screws so they don't dig in. Then you need some sort of rod holder(s), but you can just use your regular wrapping ones as the supports. I have one like that. I can post a pix, if interest. They used to sell the parts at Clemon's. He made metal rod supports with adjustable 3 wheel support bearings and they've been very useful for a long time. I wrapped manual for about first 20 years. I made my wrapper out of an old singer sewing machine case. I bought the Clemon's power wrapper and installed inside so you can close the lid when your not using and store stuff in the drawers. You can use a sewing machine motor and pedal to build your own but it's the gear reduction that's the hard to come by piece. It's a small lathe chuck, belt attached to pullies to supply the speed reduction. I've had mine a long time, >40 years? I don't do much any more except repairs, but occasionally I'll make something special. Dale more or less wrote the book on rod "crafting" and he's long gone. I went to the auction of his store and bought a bunch of stuff, most of which I still have. I usually apply thread color preserver on the power wrapper, let dry, then move to the "dryer", apply the finish while rotating, and rotate til they're firm. It rotation helps even out the thicker epoxy so it don't glob. Some production guys use a rod cover box to prevent dust, etc. and can heat the box with light bulbs, etc to cure.

Thanks. Kinda what I figured but didn't know/can't be up on everything. Seems the manufacturers aren't pushing this, but the battery people are? That link says 18AH will power for 11 h. Makes sense Ohm's law wise. Need to up voltage if resistance or amps are higher. But the electronics guys took the expensive route mandating 6 GA for new boats??? They gave me some BS about "other things" not just wire size. I'm a retired degreed engineer with deep experience so not easy to BS, I check the numbers. The 135 AH LiFePo4 I bought runs at about 13.4VDC ish. But it replaced the starting battery as well, not stand alone. When I first started running this power issue down, the internet showed a bunch of people using a separate Li mounted up front. Not enough room on my 520C for that. Now the display shows typically 12.7-12.4 all day and I ran 12 GA direct/fused and have on a switch so I can turn it all off. The internal transmitter shutoff only stops the Xducr, not the GLS10 box.