Bolar

This is fine. Your equipment doesn't' care where it's getting it's juice from, just as long as they are getting 12V.

I was recently looking at my prop. There is some play there, it's not super tight. To reassure yourself check the prop nut to be sure. If I remember correctly it's a 15/16 socket.

The boat is not that heavy. Unless your climbing up to some mountain lake you should be ok, even with the Ranger.

I just got that charger. I mounted it flat in the battery area. It's a little heavy, so I didn't want to mount it on the side.

What does your truck spec out at? I would start there.

What are you going to do?

Man, you have to wait until Saturday. That has to be crazy having that hang over you with the pick up!

The demo model at the BPS by me has a small spot like that, so it may not be a good idea to hold out for that. In fact all of the welds are a little rough on that one. On my boat the welds are definitely better, but they are not going to win any awards. For robot welding I kind of expected more. I have an aluminum horse trailer and I know it has human welds, and they are very nice and smooth. For you guys still waiting, just like anything you buy, check it over before you sign. Bisk keep us up to date. Thanks.

I figured that's how the hoses where hooked up, glad to actually see it. Can you still lock the rear storage OK with the window seal? Nice idea.

I had it out for the second time yesterday . Step 2 engine break-in complete , and I'm definitely into Step 3. It was a little windy, 10-18 mph, and it certainly was cold. The boat handled great in the small waves and wind. The max rpm achieved was 5600 and max speed 32 mph, even with the wind. I used an app on my phone to measure the speed. Something I did notice, steering seems a little squishy at max speed. I don't know if that's the nature of the beast, but something to note. For me the biggest part of the beak-in is complete. Step 3 which reads, "For the next eight hours of operation, avoid continuous operation at full throttle for more than five minutes at a time." is how it will be mostly driven anyway. I had the wife with me this time. It helps to have some ballast on the other side of the boat (as little as that maybe). By-yourself it does list a little to the starboard. I know it's only March but I need some warmer weather to get out there and finally fish . One other note, when you launch and recover everyone will notice this boat and want to check it out .

OK, I mentioned earlier about the hardware to hold the spare tire I found is all galvanized steel. So I bought two 6X1/2" stainless carriage bolts. Sanded one side a little so the drill bit wouldn't slide around too much. Drilled a 1/4" hold through the center at the end, and now I can lock it. I know that's not the most secure lock around and it wouldn't take anything to cut it, but that's what I have for now. If something better comes up I can easily change it.

I just got my Minn Kota charger yesterday. I already filled out the online rebate...Now I wait. I'm still trying to decide where to mount the charger. It's kind of heavy and I'm hesitant to mount it on one of the sides.

After my test run yesterday the spare tire I ordered was leaning up against the house as I rolled in. After looking around at different U-bolts and ways to lock it, I think I'm just going to go with two 6" stainless carriage bolts. I'm going to drill a hole at the end of one, to slide a lock in. All of the ready made bolts are galvanized steel which is going to bind up eventually. There is not a lot of room between the boat and tire to play around if you have a flat.

Hey it floats! Almost a week and I finally got it out on the water. I'm following the break-in instructions for the engine, so I couldn't open it up. I got the first hour out of the way. I went to a local lake with a speed limit of 10 mph . I'm going to have to go farther to go faster for the rest of the break-in. So far so good. Starts, runs, handles nice. The stock trolling motor seemed to work fine for me. I had about a 10 mph wind and some current and I was able to power through that no problem. The live well worked fine and I had no water in the boat when I was done. I made a few rookie mistakes. One, I forgot to lift the trolling motor when I went on the main engine. That should count as charging the TM battery! Also that blasted kill switch cord!! I forgot about it every time I got up . I had the lake to myself so I didn't have to worry about anyone else, or hurry when I launched and recovered the boat. They are calling for more "Seasonal" temperatures starting tomorrow, so I figured I better get out while the getting is good. Overall a successful shake down cruise .

Other than payment, I don't know why you would take any of those things to the dealer?

Here is another one for the list. The cup holder, it has a drain in the center. From the bottom it looks like we can attach a hose. Without the hose it empties on the steering mechanism. If you choose to add a hose, where to rout it?

When I went to pick mine up they offered to run the motor for me. If your concerned about the motor, make sure they do that for you.

If the lights fail I'm defiantly not going back to BPS to replace. I might have to paint the foam. It's awfully white under there.

The little paddle comes clipped in the stern storage(it's a bad day if you have to break that out). There really is no other place that the stern light fits other than the rod holders or along side the captains seat.

The LED's are water-proof. The rest of the housing is not water-proof and will fill with water. Well here is my solution for stowage of the stern light. I had some EPP foam from a shipping box and I laminated three pieces together, it comes to about 2" thick. I cut the foam to an approximate shape of the inside hull. Measured for the hole that the light will fit in, and pushed the foam in between the counsel and the hull. Now the light is off the floor, hopefully enough to stay away from my feet.

I'm not sure what you mean "That's how LEDs are".

Ok, the taillights. Well there is good news and bad news(maybe). The lights are sealed or encased, but the housing is not. The light assembly is in three pieces. The black rear housing that is attached to the trailer. A small reflector on the side that is on the street side of the light. Lastly the rear lens that has the lights, which are LED. The whole assembly is plastic, that hard brittle stuff I'm sure everyone is familiar with. The rear lens with the lights is sealed and the back looks like it maybe encased in epoxy or some other clear plastic. As you can see from the pictures the rear black housing has a bunch of holes in it. The rest of the assembly is loosely assembled, you can move it a little with your hand before disassembly. The whole thing is certainly not water proof, and the wires are tight, no slack. So what to do? You could do nothing, the lights and wire connections are sealed. It will probably take longer for the water to drain than it will take to fill. Maybe put a couple of gold fish in there ! You could try to seal it up with silicon to try and keep all water out. Lastly, you could drill some drain hole in the bottom so the water can drain out proper and not worry about feeding the gold fish inside . I'm not sure, I'm leaning on drilling some holes in the bottom right now.

Call and ask.

Yes there is a quick disconnect. I'm probably going to spin my batteries also. I want the covers for the trolling battery closer to the stern to inspect the water level easier.

Alright, my first mod. I moved the gas tank to the port side. I want it on the same side I fill my truck .