Bolar

Ha, I've got one of those. Luckily I've never had to use it.

OK, I have never tried to dissolve Liquid Nails once dried. I always figured it was a forever thing.

Will the Liquid Nails come up with the rest of the contact cement when the boat is re-carpeted in the future?

Next time put your polls down. If no polls, tie off on the branch. That scenario sounds like a situation I use. Too much going on what should be a simple task.

OK, the first boat picture would require a different approach compared to the second picture.

Square bits are best for those screws. Phillips tend to strip if really tight. How do you plan to secure the cables to the underside of the gunnel? There is not much there. Not sure about the grommets. You can come off the battery directly, into a breaker, then under the bracing at the back like you circled, under the gunnel, to the trolling motor itself. If and where to plug in the trolling motor would be the next step.

Are you running heavier gauge wire for your new trolling motor? You mention having the plug up front for the trolling motor. That aluminum plate the plug is in, comes off. There are about 8 screws that hold it on. You can access below the front deck a little with it off. As you probably figured out the existing wiring is under the flotation foam, so none of it is moving.

Sounds like you are new to eyeglasses. I find just about everything else that I do more problematic, dirtying my glasses, than fishing.

If your screws or lag bolts are backing out, the wood probably has started to rot. You could try to put bolts through, but the rot is going to continue, and will eventually rot around your new bolts/washers. You might consider getting in-front of the problem and replacing your bunks. Not sure about adhesives. What ever glue you use on your carpet is going to hold water, and rot you bunks faster. Changing out the bunks is easier at the ramp. Wood or composite, they basically go on the same. I recently changed my bunks. I used stainless bolts and washers, with nylon-lock nuts. After I launch I do a quick inspection of my trailer, and so far, no movement on the lock nuts. There are tons of videos on changing bunks. If you do it and have some car ramps, pull your empty trailer on them. They make the trailer a little bit higher to work on, which helps the back some.

Reminds me of the song line... "the ocean is a desert with its life underground". Now that it is hot, it's nice to be able to sit down and take a break out of the sun.

This is interesting. I'm on my second season for my composite bunks. I hadn't considered treating them right after launching. I usually do a quick inspection of my trailer after I park, so this wouldn't take that much more time.

I just got new lenses, a few months ago. My originals got really scratched up. I like the green mirror lens. Look at the Polarized Lenses page to check graphs that show Visible Lightwave Spectrum's filtered by different color lenses.

In the mid 90's I got a job in a steel mill. I decided I wanted to take care of my feet and bought expensive name brand steel toe boots ($100-$150). These boots were not lasting a year and my last name brand boot, the heel started to de-laminate. As I stepped, the boot tried to roll my foot to the inside. I was two months into these boots and no way was I going to be able to return them. Around that time I was in a Walmart and noticed they had some steel toe work boots. Looking them over, the only real difference I could see was they were not all real leather. For $30 (1990's money) those boots lasted as long, and were as comfortable as the name brand boots as I was buying. The company I work for now provides us boots annually. They are heavily into Hytest boots, with a few other name brands thrown in. Mostly, you don't know about boots until you try them. Unfortunately, once I decide I like something I'm told, "Yeah we don't make that anymore". Today, I find having a proper insole or arch support most important. Most manufacture insoles are garbage, and I have to get my own.

As Alex from GA said, Sure Bail should be the float switch for your bilge pump. Follow the wires from your Sure Bail, they should take you to the bilge.

A little pricey for what they are. Would make a nice 3D print project if your into that. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CKFUJFY?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1