haggard

I took it too literally, ha... And they'd BETTER last more than 10

Whew....!

Agreed. But if someone puts it out on a public forum, it's (by definition) subject to public comments, questions and opinions (hopefully within commonly accepted boundaries of etiquette, decency and respect).

Sanity check: Even at 1000 a month, that's $1000 * 12 * 37 = $444,000. Something isn't right there. Who even offers an auto term for 37 years? Did you mean 7 years? That would be $84K which would be more realistic (though in my opinion insane... if he truly "does really well for himself" just save up and pay cash and forget 84 months of interest)

If you can afford it, you get what you pay for with the Hobie PA. It comes at not only a dollar price but also a weight price. Other Hobie pedal drive yaks are lighter though so don't rule them out if you really want pedal drive. Given the high price of Hobie your budget really needs to be a big part of the picture because there are cheaper yaks that will get the job done well. I'd also suggest first considering your needs (that's #1), and then your ability (and time and budget) to make add-ons to a cheaper yak, as opposed to buying a turnkey / read to go yak for more money. For fishing, in my (brief) experience, high on the list would be (in no particular order): seating comfort; stability; pedal drive; sit on top; sufficient "working area" / deck space.

If you're going to have two boats I'd consider making them as NOT similar as possible (while still being well suited to the fishing task). In other words, if you've got a bigger powerboat for bigger waters, spending $2K on a smaller powerboat basically gives you a smaller version of what you've already got. Consider going more extreme: a pedal powered fishing yak ($2K will get you a nicely outfitted one) and will give you a very different experience and possibilities compared to the big boat. Your decision making process is also easier: boat selection becomes very obvious depending on the water you're fishing. Can't take the Nitro on skinny shallow rivers but the yak, no problem. Crossing a big lake in chop? Nitro. If you said you were going to have three boats, then I'd recommend the Nitro plus jon plus yak. But if it's two? Nitro and yak. Make them different. Yak is a very different animal, very simple compared to powerboat - no motor, easier to manage and maintain, etc. Of course all this depends largely on what waters you typically fish so more info on your specific situation would help.

Amazing work. I started making my own lures (mostly worms) out of wire and beads, and the results are more amusing than anything else. Nice job!

I totally understand what you're saying, but ask yourself what matters more: how well the colors match, or fishing?

Actually, a better seat and pedals are in fact enough to overcome the benefit of those other items. For some. Keep in mind the benefit for you isn't necessarily the same as the benefit for others. Molded-in brass fittings is simply an example of the attention to detail you get on the Hobie. I wouldn't advise you to buy a Hobie based on that alone. Not sure how the other Hobie models compare but as far as the PA goes, from bow to stern, it's about as good as it gets. I never really "got it" until I saw it in person. Do you pay for it? Absolutely. The PA isn't for everyone. I'd bet most of us don't need or want top quality and built-in features. There's a lot to be said for starting with a cheap simple boat and building it up the way you want.

No doubt it's a great seat. I came very close to buying a 10.5 Lure and the seat was a big selling point.

Seating: "Feelfree seat is arguable best in business" is fine as an opinion but would help if you could provide facts to support that. For the Hobie, the facts are lumbar adjustment and front and rear elevation adjustments. Rod storage: "merely rod tip protectors you hide your rod under if you lay it down on deck" Hobie gives under-deck tubes for protection for four rods, compared to "tacked on" half pipe on-deck protection for two rods. PA14? An additional two rods. "Brass and transducer mounts are not worth price gap." Again, it would help us all to separate your opinion from fact. In short, if you want best quality and can afford it, Hobie. If you want to not spend as much, there are far more options out there for less money than Hobie. Exactly my point. If you want Mirage pedal drive, it comes at a price. Alternative? Save money and use a paddle. Figure out where you fit, and buy accordingly. I spent crazy money on a Hobie and also ridiculously cheap money on what may be the most ridiculed yak on the planet and I love them both

Not sure of how BR got started and I'm relatively new here but since I found the site I've been on here literally every day and have met some of the most helpful and informative people, and had the pleasure of meeting up in person with several of them. Big thanks to Glenn, the moderators and sponsors behind bassresource.

Does anyone know if I can I disable this "we have merged your replies" feature? I do not want responses to different posts automatically merged into a single message. It dilutes the content. If I want to address several posts in a single message, I can do that myself. If I wanted to Not sure about tournaments but in my opinion/experience the value of the pedal drive comes into play after you get to your spot and start casting or after you hook a fish. It simply helps you keep your position. When moving to a new position, I think paddles could actually be faster. If you end up with paddles and not pedals, I think an anchor and anchor trolley would be a relatively low cost and hugely valuable add-on, giving you some of the advantages of pedal drive (maintaining position) when you're casting or reeling one in.

Because the products are not similar. There's a big difference between the two, which is why there's a corresponding big price difference. Pedal vs paddle; seating (& adjustments); quality; rudder; built-in items such as rod storage; attention to detail such as molded-in brass anchor trolley screw inserts and molded-in transducer mount with cover (at least on the newer PAs); etc. If you buy a $500 yak and it either doesn't meet your needs or you end up spending lots more money making it meet your needs, maybe the PA was a better choice. Then again $500 is a great price for a decent yak and it could be a great way to get started. If it's your first yak, there may be some real value in NOT spending huge $ on the Cadillac as you figure out what you need. Fishing? Anchor trolley! Anchor trolley! Anchor trolley!

I can't help with the Outback but I can offer my opinions on the choice between the Titan 10.5 and the PA12. Only one I've used so far is a borrowed 14.5 Native (Slayer? Can't remember) for a few outings last fall. Knew I wanted pedal drive and it came down to the Titan 10.5 and the PA12. I ruled out the PA14 because of the length. After the release of the 10.5 Titan was delayed a couple times I ended up buying the PA12. Haven't tried it out yet but every time I look at it, I see why I spent the money. It is quality. I warmed up to the Mirage drive system (didn't like it at first) but after experiencing some cavitation with the Native Propel drive I started considering the Hobie more (at first I didn't want the Hobie). I saw the Titan 10.5 in person at the NE Fishing/Outdoors Expo last week or so and the length is great, and seems of decent quality, but I think the Hobie is a step up. Rod holders are built inside the hull instead of being sleeves attached on the top of the hull. Anchor trolley screw mounts are molded-in brass inserts on the Hobie, not sure what they are on the Titan if it even has them. I think I'll prefer the slightly less elevated leg position of the Hobie drive compared to the Propel - a little easier on my butt and lower back. Then there is the PA seat! Hobie seat is very adjustable - elevation, lumbar, recline. Rod holders, you mention 6 rods min: I think the Titan 10.5 has two rod storage sleeves on the front edges. The PA12 has four that go inside the hull. Keep in mind each boat probably has additional rod storage (flush mount or whatever) - can't recall what the Titan has but the Hobie has two flush mount holders behind the seat. Instant reverse on the Propel wins over the Hobie cable pulls in my opinion. But Hobie just seems like the Cadillac. Yes you pay for it. Titan may have addressed the cavitation (not sure) but every time I look at the PA12 I'm very happy despite the price. I would definitely prefer the 10.5 length but it wasn't an option on the PA. Regarding the drive, the Propel is about 18 or 19 lb, while the Mirage is about 8. I've had to clean weeds out of the Propel when I ran shallow (not too big a deal to do); this shouldn't be an issue with the Mirage. That said, the Propel seems extremely solid and simple, while the Mirage I have yet to test. I doubt you'll go wrong with either boat. Sorry I can't comment on the Outback. They are heavy! So consider a trailer, or as I think you mentioned, a hitch mounted system of some kind.

Now that I look at the launch ramp again, I realize it wasn't on the main channel but rather on the back channel. Certainly much less "heavy duty" traffic to deal with and that works for me. Plenty coves to explore around the New Castle area too. Thanks for the advice.

I have easy access to the saltwater channel between Maine and NH (Piscataqua River) and want to fish it this summer from the yak, or at least use it to access calmer coves and creeks in the area. The river has a good amount of private and commercial traffic in the summer, including very large ships. Other than following the basic navigation rules is it realistic to consider other methods such as learning and using horn signals or radio comms (portable VHF) to make other (larger!) boats in the area aware of my presence and intentions, or is this overkill? Are there standard horn signals or do they vary state to state?

LOL, you almost got me there I say almost because I said "consider", not that it was the only option. For people who want to not miss a season on the water in order to get into a better boat, getting a cheap yak and going the DIY route has its merits. The key is knowing when you're about to cross the point of diminishing return.

What's wrong with outriggers on a Sun Dolphin? A $185 yak with PVC pipe outriggers sounds like a win if you're clever and not made of money. A yak stable enough to stand in is probably going to cost a pretty penny. If standing stability is very important to you, consider saving longer/more $ to get a better yak. If you're looking for a lower cost yak, consider sacrificing the standing bit. You can do a lot from a sitting (or elevated sitting) position and the yak will likely cost a lot less.

I got a Sundolphin Journey 10SS (10 footer) for $185 from Walmart. I've seen plenty bad reviews on it but what do you want for $185? I haven't tried it yet but sure looks like a great yak for short money. Weighs 44 lb so easy to lug around.

Congrats on the yak. I'd get the PFD first (wear it, don't just stow it) - as for the specific type don't over analyze it but do think about variables such as where you fish, how much boat traffic exists, what med conditions you have, etc.), then an anchor, (then maybe an anchor trolley), then a finder. Keep the rod/reel selection to a minimum. 3 combos max. You can catch more fish with a finder, but you can catch fish without one. Anchor is cheap and valuable. Finder is great until the wind blows you off the spot you found, and the wind blows you around in seconds, on a yak. Can be very frustrating.

It seemed that every time I dealt with a treble, it was getting hooked on all the other lures in the tackle box; getting hooked on me; I get one third of the hook unhooked at one of the other hooks gets hooked on something else; seems too easy to get hooked on multiple places on the fish at the same time (harder to remove). As for barbless I switched to them at the end of last season because it was faster and easier to remove the hook from the fish; less damage to the fish; quicker release; and if I hook myself, same applies to me. I just keep pressure on the fish during retrieve and haven't lost one yet. That's not to say I won't... I'll be interested to see how the singles perform this season.

I started fishing in 2017 from a cheap old 15hp 16' V-hull and a tippy $30 yak, got hooked. For 2018 I've upgraded both, a simple 14' jon (using motor, seats, etc. from the old boat) plus a PA12. Like you, wanted something smaller/lighter for smaller water and easier load/launch so I got a $185 Sundolphin Journey SS10 (10', 44 lb) as a "last resort" yak which I can literally throw in the truck bed. Haven't had any of them one on the water yet. Can't wait. Every time I think about the high cost I look over the yak and conclude that every detail is "better." You can get a cheaper yak, sure. I bet you're going to love that PA14. As for yak suggestions, my opinion: Wear a PFD; safety #1; use an anchor trolley and anchor (nothing blows more than being blown around by the wind or current when yak fishing. And your PA14 should have molded-in brass threads to accept screws for the trolley pulleys. No tearing up your hull!); consider landing gear (that PA is heavy); keep your tackle selection to a minimum. If and when the times comes to get down to only one boat? Hope that's a long way off, but the winner would be the PA12 (barring any physical conditions that would keep me from handling/operating it). Looking forward to hearing how you like the PA14 when the season comes around. Funny, I just gave the same advice without seeing this. When things go wrong, they go wrong real fast, especially on the water.

Spro Monkey bit me after the end of the 2017 season (my first), haven't even tried these out yet and they're already my favorite lures. Rat-40 with amazing articulating action and a dull (in a good way) knocking sound. Shad 40 (4", one fast sink, one slow sink) Shad 25 (2.5" for the smaller ones, fast sink) Not cheap but the quality and detail on these is so good and they should last longer than soft plastics. Replaced trebles with single barbless.

Mistake #1 is accepting a dare to stand in a sit-IN kayak! But if gators were in the water, I'd figure out how to get back in FAST. Swimming 1/4 mile in gator water? You just earned the brass * award.