Brad_Coovert

The Fat BDS Series cranks are shallow baits. I believe they run down to about 4'-5' max. The Flat CB series is an excellent flatter sided model for all depths. For fatter plugs, the CB series is a more round bait like a Norman or Bomber A series. The four colors you have are excellent colors. You have a craw color, a chartreuse color and two excellent baitfish colors for clear/bright conditions and clear/dark conditions. I would add one more and suggest either Aurora Black or MS American Shad, something with some bright flash. Brad

I'll usually have a swiming jig tied on one rod along with a spinnerbait on another and try both. The fish will decide for me. Brad

Yep, I forgot the Feb drawing, so I had two for March. Thanks for participating guys! Brad

The Senko was out in '97, but took a while before it busted out. I remember getting some Senkos in an eBay auction in '99 and thinking, "what the heck is this boring thing?" Of course, I got rid of them. Little did I know. The Fat Ika may do the same thing. One thing for sure, if it does bust out, someone else will finally invest in making some copies. Brad

A jig'n worm is a staple for some northern anglers fishing large grassbeds. Just not talked about a lot. Brad

If I had to be stuck with one bait all year, I'll take a jig. Brad

No one in my club but me fishes the Fat Ika. I hope to keep it that way! I might not even sell any to my fellow members. Brad

As always, full of good ideas. I gotta remember that one. Brad

You can live with three colors for most plastics - watermelon (clear water), green pumpkin (stained) and black (dirty or night). For baits like soft jerkbaits, Senkos or other baits that you may fish in the upper water column, a baitfish color such as white pearl will do the job in most waters. For a changeup, carry a bottle of chartreuse dye to dip tails in to give the fish a different look now and then. For spinnerbaits, you could easily get away with white in double willow in clearer water, white/chartreuse willow/colorado in stained water and chartreuse colorado in muddy water. Crankbaits - shad, chrome, chartreuse and crawdad patterns will do it. Topwaters - baitfish colors. Buzzbaits - Black and white. These are basic colors that will work under most any condition. It takes discipline to do live with a handful of colors, which I do not have :-[. Plus the bait monkey is a color nut as well. Still, color is not the first factor. Depth, speed, action and size are more important. Good luck! Brad

These are some great baits. My #1 way is weightless on wide gap hook. I will work them at different speeds from slow twitches and pauses to super fats, skipping across the surface. These are also great on a double fluke rig. They will work on a Crig also and the little Tiny Super Flukes work on a drop shot or split shot rig. Brad

I like Booyah! and Secret Weapon Lures. Secret Weapon has the best blade system going IMO. Brad

Pointer 78 in Ghost Minnow. It has caught more fish for me than I can count. Took a lot of club $$$$ money as well. Brad

Man SC, you make me feel better about my 16 Shimanos. I think I'll print your list and give it to my wife. "See honey, I COULD be like him, but I'm thinking of the family and all that." Brad

Stick Jackets are awesome rod covers. I use them anytime I store rods in my rod locker or haul them in the truck. They are inexpensive and hooks are easily removed if they get tangled. They are very durable as well. If anyone needs any, let me know. Brad

ghoti - The Fat Ika "spook" is a great way to fish these. I've been doing it for a few years and it has been a killer rig at times. I've never used a weight as weightless has always worked for me in the shallow water I use it in. The smallies in the White River here in town tear it up. Brad

Why? Cause I use 'em and I like 'em. Here are some LC baits I use and why. Fat BDS Series - Wide wobble, no rattle - very similar to a Balsa bait like a Bagley B, but in better colors. Hard to get a Ghost Minnow or Ghost Sunfish in a balsa bait. More durable than a wood bait as well. LV-0 - No one else makes a lipless bait like this one. It is the easiest lipless bait to run over shallow grass ever IMO. LV300N - Lipless bait no rattles, just vibration. LV200N - Lipless bait with no rattles. Instead, has a large metal piece that makes a unique sound. LV Max 500 - Most 3/4 oz. lipless baits are too big IMO. This one is just right. Pointer Jerkbaits - Day in, day out, the best jerkbaits made IMO. I have 150% confidence in them. Flat CB Series - These are a mix between a flat sided and round style crankbait. During the fall, they have outproduced nearly all crankbaits I have thrown. Come October into December, these baits get a workout. The above baits will always be in my boat. Brad

I find that I tend to fish them backwards more than normal. Brad

avid, just look at all the space you'll save in the boat if all you carry are Senkos. Brad

I like the Sport Remover Jighead from Buckeye Lures and the Screwed-Up Jighead from Reaction Innovations. The Spot Remover is a great stand up style head with a barb to hold the bait and the Screwed Up head is a traditional round head style with a wire spring to hold the bait. I use the Spot Remover on rock/gravel bottoms and the Screwed Up head in wood. Check them out. If you decide to try those out, let me know. I'll help you out getting some. Brad

I never tie direct to split ring. I always use a snap. I still retie often as well. Brad

Curl tail worms move a water. At night or in dirty water, a worm like a Gator Tail or a ZOOM GTail will be a good bait choice. Swimming tail worms like the Utail, Mag II, Culprit are good worms when fishing more quickly in warmer waters. They are easily fished through weeds, wood, etc. in summer, these are great producers in timber, weedbeds and laydowns. Straight tail worms work well in cooler water, clear water and when fish get pressured. They are one of the most versatile worms IMO. They can be fished easily from top to bottom on about any rig you can think of. They are especially deadly rigged weightless or on jigheads like the Spot Remover. Good luck in your worming! Brad

Bed fish will drive you nuts somedays. I have watched the same fish crab my baits by the very tip of the tail drag it off the nest. They can also suck in and blow out a bait before you even think of setting the hook. Basically bed fihsing takes practice. Your setup sounds fine to me. Sounds like you just need more practice as bed fishing. Brad

I use the Plano boxes like Burley. BTW, that jig box is pretty empty Burley. Brad

IMO, your line is too light. I'd bump up to something in the 12 - 15 lb. range and something with less stretch than Trilene. Your rod is fine. You'll feel bottom content, cover like wood or rocks and bites, but you won't actually feel much action if any from the actual jig though. As for casting distance, the guys are partly correct, a long cast can be bad with a jig, especially with the wrong line and especially with the wrong jig. But, don't be fooled into thinking jigs are short line baits. I have used casting jigs (lighter weedguards and hooks) on longer casts and done quite well. Brad

IMO, you're not gonna find a bad soft plastic frog as long as you use the right tackle, line, hook and hookset. I happen to fish both the Cane Toad and the Horny Toad. They both have a place and time and I have had days when one outfished the other hands down. If I'm gonna keep the bait moving, I'll start with a Cane Toad most times. Those paddle feet make a lot of noise and move a lot of water with little effort. Now, if I plan on stopping the frog now and then and letting it deadstick through a hole in the grass or in the pads, I'll use a Horny Toad. I have yet to find a soft frog that glides like a Horny Toad and that is the biggest thing that sets it apart from other frogs IMO. Brad If it's a serious frogging day, I'll have both rigged on.