LionHeart

I'd give it a few trips with the new hold (pinky only behind trigger) before making any changes to the rod. When I switched from 2 finger behind trigger to pinky only, it felt weird for a while, now it is the only way I can imagine holding a rod. Maybe give your hand some time to get used to it.

Riiight, wink wink. Enjoy your perception

I appreciate your methodology but it don't work that way. If you feel like it bleeding 20 yards of line gives you more leverage or somehow changes the gear ratio of your reel, run with it. We aren't talking about the best way to launch a space shuttle, we are talking about bass fishing. Being factually accurate can be allowed to take the back seat to having fun and enjoying the experience. Perception is allowed to count for something.

Sorry but to suggest that using a 6:1 ratio reel with a spool half filled with line gives the same mechanical advantage as a 3:1 ratio reel is not based in reality. Maybe that ain't what you were saying but it kinda seems that way. Get This: The OP asked if using 20 or so yards of less line would effectively make his reel behave as if it were a lower gear ratio. The answer doesn't need to get obscured by minutia..... no. If you start with let's say a 7.3:1 reel and only half fill the spool, maybe the small leverage gain would reflect something to the tune of let's generically say a 7.2:1 ratio, but would you practically notice the change? Of course not. As with any online forum, there will always be a practical and useful answer, and then someone that comes along and gives the 'well actually......' answer. This thread is a classic case of that. If you can decern the minute change in leverage from using 20 yards less line, then you are uncommonly in tune with your gear. In which case I suppose, hats off to you. That seemed like a rant. I don't mean it that way.

Lol, I figured somebody would try to overcomplicate the answer( there is always one) which is why I said "measurably changed." From and academic stand point, sure, the required force to turn the reel handle would be marginally changed. In practice.... nope. You can't change gear ratio by stripping line off your reel. Thanks though

Gear ratio and IPT are two separate properties. Your reel may take up line more slowly now but it is still the same gear ratio, thus the mechanical advantage has not measurably changed. For every turn of the reel handle, your spool will still rotate 7 times. Removing or adding line from/to your spool changes IPT, but not torque. The higher the gear ratio, the harder it is to turn the reel handle.

As others have said, a 4 power Dobyns is considered 'heavy' power by only Dobyns. Really good rods, but the 734 Fury is barely a medium-heavy power. If you are looking for a rod that does most things well, a Fury 734 would be a nice choice, but a heavy power rod it is not (which is a good thing I think in your situation).

I would say Fury 734 as all purpose but everything you listed was light weight treble hook baits or senko. If you only throw treble hook baits or senko I'd go with the 3 power fury.

Nope.

Not sure what you mean by needing a rod stout enough to 'set the hook.' Out of all my fishing blunders, I've never had trouble burying treble hooks into a fishes mouth (or cheek, or tail). There isn't really a 'set' required while using treble hooks as far as I know. In fact many times the bass set the hooks for you. I would strongly recommend the Falcon Bucoo SR "Trap Caster." Such a good rod for lipless, but it is on the soft side of medium heavy no doubt, so it may not give you what you're looking for.

Think about it this way, 50 lb. braid is a very, very common fishing line but I don't see many bass rods that list 50 lb line on the side of the rod. Most don't go above 20 lb or so. 50 lb braid can be used safely on an ultra lite Mickey Mouse rod as long as the force applied doesn't exceed the strength of the rod. Just being honest but it was almost certainly user error (high sticking) or the rod was already damaged and waiting to break.

A medium heavy moderate fast rod can do just about anything. Never used an Okuma rod but academically you are in the strike zone. Own the Bucoo SR medium heavy and yeah, an excellent, excellent rod for the $. Close to a medium power though.

6 speed is excellent for 5xd-10xd IMO. 5 is too slow at the end of a long cast, and 7 will get a little fatiguing with the larger lures.

Well if Ole' Gerald says fluorocarbon has zero stretch, it has to be true. And all this time.......

$99 on ebay. Outstanding reel for the $

If I had to pick one line for everything it would be braid hands down. 40 lb. Power Pro. If I could pick only 2 lines.... braid to mono leader.

I'd focus more on rod strength, ACTION, weight, build quality, sensitivity, handle length and comfort, and price all before a few inches in length. I'm 5'10 and a 7'6" rod works great for me. Never really understood the whole matching the rod length to your height thing.

I'll just admit it, I'm afraid bass are line shy

You mean Redington?

Pitching for saltwater fishing?

Use a frog and a stout rod, then hope for the best if you hook up. That is a mess. I know of a very similar pond that has decent bass in it but it is unfishable due to the vegetation. You wind up dragging in 10 lbs of muck with every fish. Just not any fun.

The OG Tatulas are tough to find nowadays but the 7'2" was one of my favorite bottom contact rods. Very light and sensitive. The new Tatula rods are quite good also. Sensitivity seemed on par with the older version. Guides are a skosh small for most braid to leader knots but still excellent rods.

Well, when people say 50 pound test braid helps to pull a fish out of cover better than let's say 30 pound test, I don't see how that is possible. It's not as if the thicker braid somehow gives the angler a higher mechanical advantage over the fish. With a rod that will likely break at <20 lbs., and a reel drag that will slip at around 15 lbs., I just don't see how 50 lb braid would offer any practical advantage over 30 lb. Both line choices far exceed the amount of force the angler will be able to apply while retrieving a fish from the muck. Is the idea that the line often becomes damaged while fishing, so it's best to start with 50 lb. test and even if damaged, the line will maintain enough integrity to get the job done? I've never had my line damaged by grass or lily pads or hydrilla. Seriously wondering this because I see the claim often.

Sorry dude but that makes absolutely no sense, and I hear it all the time. Can you please elaborate?

Falcon Bucoo SR for my $100