Sifuedition

They had one at my local Bass Pro, equipped like you describe, for about 15,5. Add on upgraded interior, trolling motor and electronics and I was at barely over 18.

I started watching in August, up until now. I should have caught the "off-season" prices.

Why does it seem like most private sellers think there should be no depreciation on boats. I can go down to bass pro and pick up a new Tracker 175, well equipped, for about 18. Very basic, even cheaper. Yet, craigslist seems to think a 190 that is 5-10 years old should still sell for 13-18. And all the bigger names? forget about it. They still want 18+ on 10+ year old anything Nitro, etc. I'm not a mechanically inclined person. I don't need to inherit a motor I'm going to need to work on or an interior I'm going to need to redo, etc. It just seems odd to me that boats that are old enough those things have to be true, they don't expect that to affect the value. I've been keeping an on again/off again watch on boat prices and it seems to be consistent. Am I naive and boats really have very little depreciation or do you think these people all end up settling on a price far lower than they list?

Despite having Academy, Dicks, Cabela's and Bass Pro, there are some things they don't stock, or, charge too much for. The only one I didn't check for the hook covers was Bass Pro. Rods, I can frequently find stuff on Tackle Warehouse they just don't have local like Dobyn's Fury. Here's another example of something they just don't stock: https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Storm_SuspenDots_80_Dots/descpage-SSD.html?from=basres

I have it on Steam for PC.

As in fishing video games? If so, what are some good ones?

When the weather is cold enough that you don't want to be out in it, how do you get your fishing fix? I feel like I keep going to online fishing gear shopping and I have to stop, lol.

Well, to hold me over, I bought some cheap ones on amazon. Prime shipping that won't cost me anything and it will let me determine if I like them enough to buy the better quality. I'm currently working from a backpack style tackle storage. So far, I've managed to make it hold all of my stuff except my live bait tackle. I think I'm far too rapidly reaching the point of outgrowing it. The hook covers might be a killing blow for it, depending on how badly they limit me putting multiple lures in a single compartment...which ironically, would eliminate the need for the covers. It might push me to having a larger tackle bag/box and taking only a limited selection in the backpack to the pond. I'm not good at deciding what to leave behind, lol.

Don't you hate it when you put in your online order for tackle and remember the next day or later that day something else you wanted to buy? Now you are paying the shipping fees again or you have to put it in your wish list and wait for the list to build up a little again before you get what you wanted. Speaking of... Can anyone tell me which is the most universal treble hook safety cap size? Not sure if I should get small or medium, but, I suspect medium. http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Owner_Treble_Hook_Safety_Caps/descpage-OHC.html

I have a Black Max myself. I have 15 lb hybrid line on it and I can cast a weightless Zoom Super Fluke a long ways. Dial in the brakes on the reel and it will not have a problem with a typical 5" fluke. I've caught 1 lb dinks on them, so, you likely don't need to go smaller, but, based on how far I can throw a 5", I would think you could go smaller and be ok if you wanted to.

One of the keys is to not have just one technique. If you are fan casting an area, don't repeat the same presentation in the same line. Vary the length of your pauses. Vary the length of your "pop". Try pulls instead of popping it. Mix it up until you find what is working on that specific water on that specific day. The most commonly effective method, however, is sudden erratic movements. The hits will often come immediately on the stop or start. The slack is what allows the bait to have a complete stop so that you generate the start/stop motions.

I had a stroke 4 years ago. Most people can't tell until I tell them, but, I definitely still have issues. My balance is not great and my left side is weak and uncoordinated. I think I MIGHT be able to handle a kayak, but, I can't be sure without trying. I suspect I would need one that is more stable than average. I would also be using it for ponds and areas where I may need to move it by myself for some distance over land. How do you try a kayak before buying to know how it will stack up to your needs?

I was taken aback a bit by topwater bass in cold water. Someone else pointed out, however, if it is a shallow pond, they don't really have anywhere to go. Topwater can still call up a strike since the fish aren't far from the top at any given time. I'm struggling with very similar ponds, but I don't have a good gauge on their depths and they are smaller, 3-5 acres. I've thrown nearly everything and most of it has not really worked. I've done ok with lipless crankbaits and weightless plastics, but the posts and the comments on it make me think I should probably expand my approach to include more topwater. You might give it a try, too.

Well, I was at Academy today and decided to try something, even if it's temporary. Can't upload more due to limits. Turns out, I have two sets of clothing hooks. I just put a bungee between each. The front bungee cord I had to knot twice to get it the correct tension. You can see it between the reels in the middle there with the knot in it. The rear, I only knotted once each and used two cords. I twisted them together. Due to the twists shortening them further, the single knot was enough for the tension I wanted. By putting the butt of the rod through the twists, the twists allow me to hold the rear of the rods in place so they don't slide forward/back or side to side. The draw-back is that since they no longer angle with the butt of the rod on the floor, the tips are farther forward. The tips actually sit under the visor on each side. On the driver side, the visor is not tight to the roof and so that is not putting pressure on the tips. On the passenger side, however, it was putting slight pressure on the rod tips, so I have lowered the visor.

Congratulations! When they react to a worm fished fast, it is likely other baits made for moving faster will likely work better. Those soft swimbaits linked earlier by @fishnkamp would likely be a good choice.

Are they spawning? You mention Peacock bass, so I presume somewhere like Florida where it is never really cold. You mention seeing them so I assume shallow. You mention them investigating, but not committing, that sounds like behavior commonly seen during the spawn. If they are spawning, you will see they hover in a particular spot persistently. They may have finished their bed or still be working on it. If they have finished, you will see a spot cleared out, usually circular, with little to no vegetation or rocks. If they are working on it, they will be brushing the bottom with their tails periodically, stirring up silt as they try to clean out the area. If they are spawning, they are too preoccupied to eat much. You will need to get a reaction strike most of the time. Lizards and bluegill eat bass eggs, so baits that mimic either might work. It might also be that they just are not interested in worms.

Currently, I have them propped over the rear seat. The tips, however, have a minor bend where they lay up against the roof of the cab. I don't like the idea of these constantly having that minor bend. Can you confirm this is bad for them, and how else would you suggest keeping them in the SUV if you like having them available, just in case, for long periods of time? I've considered trying to rig some kind of rack that would mount to the interior roof of the SUV, but all methods I can think of have some significant drawbacks, as well.

https://www.saltstrong.com/articles/modified-uni-knot-for-braid/ It is the uni knot, but, it is modified in that they go through the eye (or split ring) twice, which improved the knot strength in their testing. This is occurring in the initial double loop before really getting to the knot itself, much less cinching it.

My problem is right at this moment: The loop from going through the split ring twice is not usually a large loop and somehow always lays toward the bottom. As I attempt to tighten it, it finds its way into the split in the split ring about 2-3 times out of 10.

Would you all suggest taking the split rings off and replacing them with these, or just attach these to the split ring?

About half of my lures came with oval split rings and I have the same problem. It's not when I am casting/retrieving. It is tying the knot when it happens and I end up having to retie.

Thanks for your answer. Is the 46 lbs version really big? Do you have a suggestion as to weight/action?

I have started using braid for basically everything and I am running into an issue that I haven't found posted about much. The line, being as thin as it is, tends to try to slip between the rings of a split ring. I have a mix of circle and oval split-rings and have this problem on both. I'm using the knot in the linked video and it seems like the double loop at the beginning is where I run into the problem, often. When I come around and go though the eye the second time, the loop around the metal frequently slides and ends up around the single strand of metal. Trying to get that loop away, the loop just pulls between the split. Is there some kind of hardware I could swap the split-rings out with that would not sacrifice much strength, not add excessive weight, but would not have this problem? https://www.saltstrong.com/articles/modified-uni-knot-for-braid/ Considering this in the #2 http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/P-Line_Crosslock_Snap/descpage-BBR.html

"Extra-wide gap - The hook's gap, where it normally is measured for sizing, is from the shank to the point. An "extra-wide gap" is actually extra wide farther down in the bend, creating an inward point angle. The point aiming toward the hook eye offers added holding power to keep large, hard-fighting fish hooked. " https://www.flwfishing.com/tips/2013-10-18-guide-to-treble-hooks I don't switch mine out, so I haven't spec'd out different brands, etc. I was just answering your question about what an EWG is.

EWG = Extra Wide Gap