Riazuli

I haven't had any luck yet with the blade bait, but I've also been using the lipless a lot more. Check out my other post on lipless vs blade baits for winter bass:

Kayaks are a great way to get out on the water and covering more areas if you don't have a boat. They're not too expensive, are good exercise, and can get places boats can't. I still plan to get a bass boat when it makes sense for me, but right now my kayak takes care of all my needs. As far as bank fishing, that's been all my winter fishing as I don't want to take the kayak out on the Potomac in the winter. Most of the main water bass are hiding in the deep which is too far from shore and too close to other boats to comfortably consider in my kayak during the winter.

Dinks are indeed better than nothing, especially in the winter! You sure did pick a tough time to get into bass fishing, but looks like it's working out for you. And yeah, 3 isn't bad for winter. For me, 1 winter bass holds me over quite well lol. Also, no shame here in admitting that one of my biggest producers while growing up was a bubblegum colored zoom finesse worm and other bubblegum colored worms. The bass in the lake I grew up on loved em. And yeah, if you seem to be having bad luck with one color, switching can always help. You never know when the bass might prefer that color on another day or place with different conditions.

That's awesome that you all had such good luck in such a short span of time! Sounds like a fun time. Can't forget the old rooster tail. Aka dink slayer lol. I'm sure they're solid on bigger bass too.

At least you caught something! I had a period of a couple weeks or so where my only catches for a while were snagged gizzard shads lol, so I feel your pain. I did catch a snakehead during that time... This was beginning of January I believe or end of December. Since then, I've been paying close attention to the tides and conditions and have pulled in a few (all on lipless crankbaits). Keep at it!

Thank you for explaining that. It was my understanding that the OP was not actually getting a decent cast in due to backlash. You're right of course if the distance is equal that bait size doesn't matter. My thought was that a heavier lure (say a 3/4) might get him out further than a 1/8 (again depending on setups). And then the further cast would charge the system more - this comment of mine is based off of someone who had the same problem (as far as what's being described) and this approach got him running again. That being said - I gave a suggestion not a verdict. It helps to explain like you have in this learning and contributing environment even if you have to be a bit direct than just be condescending without really explaining anything. That rarely solves anything. So, thank you!

Additionally, when you say DC doesn't work the way I'm describing, I've literally gone off what Maico said in that "The charge that you mention is generated while the spool is rotating on a cast , has nothing to do with a heavy bait creating more force. " Minus the second part, because that, if anything here, is actually incorrect. To say that a heavy bait creating more force doesn't result in more spool rotations is plain wrong. If there weren't more spool rotations, heavy baits wouldn't cast further (unless you go too heavy for the setup of course). I don't mean any disrespect, just stating the facts.

Can you please point out the erroneous terms and explanations? Also, me having a limited knowledge of a DC reel doesn't mean I have a limited knowledge of how things in general work. Not one person in this thread has mentioned to consider trying to charge the DC system - are you saying it doesn't charge from casts? (I'm aware that it does). Everything I have mentioned is based off of similar situations that have actually worked for other people. It seems like you're scrutinizing some of the less significant points (if they are actually wrong) and missing the main point of a simple consideration before the riding the bandwagon of just sending it in and creating more work and headache for the OP and the seller when a simple fix might (keyword might) work. I can't be wrong in asking someone to consider something reasonable that has worked for other people. It's pretty shocking that I'm getting slack in this thread for that. It if works, great, if it doesn't, at least it was tried before doing something that might be unnecessary (like sending the reel back...) Pretty sure that's a general principle of life...

Thank you for the responses, gents! It's nice to see what's working for people, and awesome to see choices that I haven't really considered. Keep em coming!

Yep, I've been "forced" to fish a nearby WWD area, as some of the ponds I frequent have been frozen over (although not sure about now after this last warm spell). What size was the jerkbait you used? I've been trying ones ranging from 1/8 to 1/2 oz (~2.5 inches long to 4.5 inches). Still haven't had luck on those yet, but also haven't fished them as much as the lipless.

Thank you - I noticed that one, and will definitely be looking through it. I'm hoping to see what people say for winter bass in particular.

Just curious - what lure or lure type have you all caught the most bass with this winter? Mine have mainly been caught on different lipless crankbaits (varied according to sky and water conditions), with some luck on plastic worms. I realize people are fishing various conditions and places, so just wondering what has been working for you (if you can list whether you're fishing ponds, creeks, deep lakes or rivers, WWDs, etc., that will be helpful too!).

Him having a lot of these reels doesn't warrant the way he responded. I was giving a helpful suggestion based on what I've heard and what makes sense. I clearly indicated that this was second hand knowledge and what I am proposing is not based off on my own experience - I may not have clearly laid out some of the specifics in my first post, but to snidely say "really" and the "charge you mention" and then say that spool speed has nothing to do with a heavy bait creating more force is plain wrong (according to laws of physics). The heavy brakes obviously aren't factor until the DC kicks in - and if it does actually kick in. The tension knob (referred to as mechanical brakes by some would need to be set to "heavy" to of course prevent backlash when the DC system is not engaging) This was a suggestion for something to try and consider before simply sending it in. Again, this is based off what I have read and heard and has reportedly worked for others. I, admittedly, should not have been "more" snide in my response to him...but...he started it (end sarcasm) Also, @Quinner006, if you're not getting a full cast due to backlash, then it seems like you're not getting a solid opportunity to charge the system (based on my limited knowledge of DC reels). You could try keeping the tension knob tight and doing a bunch of casts that way to see if the DC system kicks in (maybe cast 20 times or something like that and then try different settings on the brakes with less on the tension knob - the number I mentioned is arbitrary and it may require more or less). If you've tried everything mentioned, then there may indeed be an issue with the system.

You clearly must not understand what "I've heard" followed by helpful suggestions indicates. Consideration of charging, regardless of specifics, is better than just sending it in. Ideally, a heavy lure, if manageable without a charged system, will result in more rotations due to more force applied which will result in more charge applied - does that make sense?

I've heard the DC system needs to charge. I've heard that a heavy bait set to high brakes will charge the system faster (makes sense as there is more force being applied to the system).

Just type in "precision oiler" in your go to online ordering site and pick one that you think you will like (also check reviews). You should be able to get something under 10 bucks.

Just to give an update based on my experience: The TSI 321 definitely lives up to the hype (for me, at least). I gained significantly noticeable casting length and smoothness in casting after applying it to my spool bearings. I had cleaned and oiled the bearings prior to that more than once in the past couple of months (lots of crud in this particular fishing spot). The TSI oil also performs well in sub 30 degrees weather. I had tried some generic reel oil after a cleaning, shimano bantam oil after a cleaning, and shortly after with no cleaning, I tried a small amount of the TSI - I then used compressed air to blow out any excess (which I had also done with prior oilings). The mix of TSI on top of the bantam oil was the ticket. I've also read elsewhere that a mix of a good standard reel oil like shimano's oil along with TSI has good results: I pay close attention to this stuff (casting performance, etc.) and this definitely made a difference - I'm hitting spots I just could not hit prior to using this oil (even after cleaning, tweaking settings, line conditioner, etc.). I mean, hey, if NASA uses it, then there's gotta be something to it, right? Just to add, I did a full cleaning/greasing/oiling (gears, bearings, levelwind, etc.) prior to adding the shimano oil for the first time. I also noticed the performance gain on two of the same reel, which were both maintained the same way.

I figured it had something to do with the braking system. I know when it comes down to it, the main thing is that you're using a good quality bearing in a good quality and properly cleaned and lubed reel. I just like to nerd out on this stuff sometimes. Good for brain maintenance

ah, ok - so you have two of the same reel, one with sv and one with a type r spool? Btw, I edited my post above - why do you think one is only free spooling for 5-6 seconds?

That's good to see you're addressing it from all angles. I'm learning some new things here - It was a toss up for me between going shimano or daiwa recently, and shimano won out, so my knowledge base on the Daiwa's is minimal. That being said, I wan't to clarify too that I don't really think free spooling is indicative of casting performance in a very significant way, at least in terms of distance (I'm also wondering about lure weights/finesse fishing). I'm guessing a factor as to why the rc car bearings free spooling for a while but not casting well has to do with rotational speeds/lure weights coming into play, but I am a little confusing by the following: "My TDZ R+ spools can free spool for well over a minute. I have SV spools that free spool for 5-6 seconds tops /w the same bearings. The SV spool casts better." You're saying the TDZ free spools for over a minute, but the SV spools for 5-6 seconds yet casts better. Aren't you saying that these are two different spools/systems? Why do you think the SV is free spooling for 5-6 seconds? There has to be something slowing it down. - I see what you're saying about the air brakes - I had originally confused the SV feature with the Air brakes.

Ok, so I finally got a reply from the manufacturer. Long story short, is no the top should not come off and it was supposed to be secured. Not sure if I get a defective one, but the top came off quite easily - I'm sure it's something I can just cement/epoxy back together to keep it secure, but I did request whatever would address the issue from the manufacturer. I think it may be a plastic cap of sorts that goes on the top extension rod that connects to the roll pin in the head. Let's see what they say. Edit - The unit was indeed defective but the manufacturer resolved the issue smoothly after sending them picture of my retriever - the top pole did not have a full drill hole for the roll-pin to go through when it should have. Great customer service and great product - things are sometimes defective but as long as the manufacturer resolves things when they legitimately are, then hey, nothing to really complain about.

I agree with a lot of what you're saying, but the SV air brakes are preventing the spool from freespool at the lower speeds compared to a cast, so that isn't a proportional comparison (in regard to free spooling for only several seconds, but casting better). Again, I realize this isn't necessarily a major performance breakthrough here, but friction is friction, and that will translate in some way or another (unless you have factors like the SV air brakes in play, which doesn't exactly change the issue of friction in a free spool, but rather eliminate the ability to use it as an effective comparison).

I've found reports of it being longer lasting, and multiple reports of free spool times increasing triple fold...that pretty much sold it for me, so I ordered some. I know a lot of guys say free spool tests don't mean anything in terms of casting performance, but in the simple case of physics, longer free spool = less friction = greater performance. Whether that translates to easier casting on lighter lures or a few feet consistently on the cast, it's a performance gain. Sometimes, a few feet is all you need to reach that nook you're looking to hit. It's worth a shot! I'll be doing some tests of my own and reporting back. Btw, I'll be using this on steel bearings, and sticking with steel. I read that TSI 321 doesn't really add any noticeable improvement to ceramics, as it's main feature is that it soaks into metal. Edit: I got a report of someone saying it has added improvement to their ceramic bearings. I guess that makes sense with the lower viscosity causing less drag and making them near dry performance as the guy stated. The oil won't soak in to ceramic but I can see how it can help with quieting without losing too much performance. I think also, though, with ceramics recommended to run dry that you technically are "losing" some performance, but gaining in other ways.

Lasting longer is definitely something I would consider switching over for. I wonder if there are any comparison reviews out there - checking now!

Hey everyone. First of all, this thing is awesome, and it's already paid for itself. I just have a question about the top part. I sent this question to the manufacturer the other day, but haven't heard back yet, so I thought I'd ask you all: does the top part pop off with some force? I'm not sure if mine broke or the top part is supposed to spin freely. I know there is a pin that keeps the metal rod from pushing into the plastic top, but I wasn't sure if this connection was permanently attached. I can provide a picture if needed - do any of you have this and can you provide some input? My concern is that the top will eventually fall off if I pull it on something too hard (like tangled fishing line).