Crow Horse

In my offroading days, I learned that tire balancing can sometimes be quite tricky. One can balance a cinder block but it certainly won't ride smoothly. Road force balancing is pretty much the gold standard. Trailer tires (small) might not meet the criteria for road force balancing. This will be a long term experiment as the season winds down. RF balancing can identify an out of round condition.

Has anyone tried balancing beads with their trailer tires. I have used them on several vehicles and they seemed to work well and on other vehicles there was no joy. I'm thinking in terms of using them in small trailer tires (205-65 x 10). Certainly the manufactures of them recommend them but in the real world of small tires, will they be helpful?

Thanks for the photos!! I'll order some up. Based on your friends experience, using a VHB tape to secure a kydex keel guard is a better option than the Marine Goop.

Do you have any photos of the tape that you could share? I wanted to make some keel guards from kydex but I'm running out of warm weather fast. The tape sounds like a good interim method to protect the keell

I do and will present my argument in an appetizing manner and quite frankly, I don't give a rat's a$$ if they are upset about my presentation. There is no substantive rebuttal that they can present in a verse of reason.

X2 and for the reasons stated. If I was gifted with one I'd sell it and bank the loot. I enjoy the small quiet waters where I fish. Not only are they productive but they are QUIET as well. I might not catch the largest or the most, but the experience of quietude is very important, perhaps even more important than catching fish. So, to answer the posed question, no, I wouldn't catch any more fish than I do now.

Raynauds syndrome can be a double edged sword. Raynauds can coexist with Chilblains and that makes for very painful times in cold and damp conditions. Chilblains is triggered by exposure to cold and damp conditions. When the skin is cold, blood vessels near its surface get narrower. If the skin is then exposed to heat, the blood vessels become wider. If this happens too quickly, blood vessels near the surface of the skin can’t always handle the increased blood flow. Blood can leak into the surrounding tissue, which may cause the swelling and itchiness of chilblains. Certain medications exacerbate both conditions. Both conditions can be very painful.

Not for anyone on a blood thinner such as Eliquis.

***For clarification's sake, if one is using a prescription blood "thinner", ibuprofen (Advil, Motrin), and naproxen (Aleve) are in the book of NO. They can raise the risk bleeding and heart attack.

I pickup everything that doesn't belong. Some of it is truly disgusting and I'll leave it at that. I do carry those litter grabber sticks of various styles and nitrile gloves and plastic bags. On the plus side, I did find a crisp $100 bill that I donated to a local raptor rehabber and a case of bottled water, which I kept. Last year I walked along a local main road picking up trash. You name it I picked it up. The amount of trash I picked up was staggering.

I too suffer from Raynauds syndrome. The meds I take for my AFIB make it worse. What works for me is to overdress (compared to what most people would wear). Layers topped with a windproof jacket and a good warm hat. I rarely wear gloves but will have those hot hands heat packets in my pockets for frequent warmups. Keeping my hands dry is critical. I wear NRS Boundry boots and they keep my feet dry and warm. For arthritis, I preemptively take some Tylenol. If it's really bothering me, I'll use a CBD balm on the affected parts. One thing I've noticed is that when I'm fishing, is that I'm so focused on fishing that I don't nearly notice how cold I might be. Given those same conditions at home I'd be pretty darn uncomfortable.

Like others, I do reel & tackle maintenance. Along with that, one winter I practiced tying various knots every night to develop muscle memory. If a warm day presents itself during the winter I might be able to do some trailer or kayak maintenance.

My parts arrived from Canada without any additional fees. I probably paid up front. It's water under the bridge now.

I just did the same. When I placed my ordered (transmission lines) I didn't realize it was from Canada. They are supposed to be shipped Next Day UPS. There was no mention of any additional fees. Tracking says I should be getting the order tomorrow. Guess I'll find out then. Hope I'm not on the hook for more coin.

I vary the retrieve speed all the time, sometimes even on the same retrieve. I'll try to bracket the speed of my retrieve until the bass tell me what they like that day. Often times the speed they find appetizing isn't what you'd expect under the given conditions. This x's2. They'll tell me what's on the menu that day and how quickly they want it served......

Another consideration came to mind. If using contact cement, test it on the backing of the carpet to make sure it doesn't react adversely to it. Do this to play it safe.

I hear you and feel your pain.... Sloppy wiring drives me crazy. It's a direct reflection of the quality of the job. I've used D-Wings I purchased from WireCare. They seem to be holding well. One item that I go overboard on when using adhesive wire management products is to clean the surface twice with isopropol alcohol. I use the prep pads you can get at any pharmacy or Walmart. On the packaging it states "for indoor use only" but I've used them on my yak, so far so good. You might want to try them out As an alternative, you might consider using 3M Dual Lock tape. They have an "ultra high bond" version. I used this to fasten an item to the bow of my yak and it's been holding fast for 6 or 7 years with no weaking at all. 3M Dual Lock

Very good information. It would be interesting to find out what exactly would be the average service life of LN, although I'm sure environmental conditions would impact that greatly.

If the substrate is metal, removal is best accomplished by using an oscillating tool with the correct blade. Here's a video about direct cement carpet removal. Although he's using a commercial floor stripper, the same principals apply if one was to use an oscillating tool. If the carpet was cemented to wood, be prepared for some of the layers of wood to come up. It usually is brutal work. Wear a respirator. Using chemicals makes a really messy operation even more mess,y if that is possible.

My trailer doesn't do any swimming but I've had a lot of issues with the incandescents that came with the trailer. Maybe they were just poor quality lights. The bulb contact points were iffy and a constant source of irritation. Swapped over to LED's and all is well.

Wouldn't it be more of a consideration if the lights are submersible or not, irrespective of them being LED's or incandescent?

As a former carpet installer, I would recommend contact cement. Some are water based and others aren't. Be advised that those that aren't water based are flammable and the fumes will kill a moose. No flames and well ventilated are keys. Apply with a brush to both sides and allow to "dry". After the carpet is put back in place, allow to gas out. It'll still smell a bit. I'm not sure what current contact cements are available now as I've been retired from the trade for quite a while but a waterproof contact cement as others have mentioned is the ticket.

It's always nice when a plan comes together....and actually works. Well done!

Did you resolve the fender bracket relocation?