roadwarrior

Maybe you will be pleasantly surprised to find it's not as serious as it seems. I hope so, but you ought to quit pushing it until you see the doc. Good luck.

You may want to wait until the water warms up a little, depending on where you live. Rember this is a weightless presentation in water <12' deep. So, if your bass aren't there yet, you can't catch 'em!

Later this month or next month, when the water warms up a little, fish the Fat Ika. If what you are seeing are really bass, you WILL catch a few with this lure, guaranteed! I'll also restate one of my previous suggestions: Fish a jekbait EXCLUSIVELY for awhile in low light, early and late. Sweep your rod twice and let the lure suspend, motionless, for an EXTENDED period of time, then repeat again and again. The right cadence varies from day to day, but start here. Although I personally prefer big lures, I'll suggest you try some smaller suspending jerkbaits: Rapala X-Rap (XR8, 3 1/8", 1/4 oz, color 001) or Lucky Craft Pointer (SP series) 65, 78 or 100 (American Shad and/ or Original Tennessee Shad).

Well, soft plastics are always the place I would start, but it sounds like you "been there, done that." As Paparock noted, your lake sounds a lot like Bull Shoals. On that lake I have had my best days fishing two types of lures: #1 Jerkbaits on a loooooooooooong cast. #2 3 1/2" Mizmo tubes, baby diaper yellow (squash green or Kent's Classic), inserted jig head, exposed hook. Although the baits are obviously completely different, what they have in common is that the fish that I have caught were all on a FEEDING strike, not a reaction strike. The bass EAT these lures! In clear water color can be VERY important. So, with the jerkbaits, try different natural patterns and colors. I suggest starting with Clear, White, Black & Silver, Green and Blue. On the right day, one of these colors is usually working, but oddly, sometimes that is the ONLY color that works!

Much of the confusion has to do with terminology. Let's define "power" and "action" first. Power The power of a rod is simply a rating, which describes the overall stiffness of the blank. Power categories include Ultra-Light (UL), Light(L), Medium-Light(ML), Medium(M), Medium-Heavy(MH) , Heavy(H) and Extra Heavy(XH) Action The action of a rod is a rating, which describes the amount of curvature that occurs in the blank due to loading with weight. The faster the action, the further towards the tip the rod bends. The slower the action, the further towards the middle of the rod and so on. Action categories include: Extra-Fast: Bend very near the top of the blank. Fast: Bend in the upper 25-30%. Moderate: Bend near the middle. Slow: Parabolic curvature throughout the entire length of the rod. Action is important because it determines, in part, how much control you have over the fish. The faster the action, the more pressure you can put on the fish (and vice-versa). Many crankbait anglers want more moderate action so that the fish cannot shake free as easily. Another important consideration of rod action is casting distance. The slower the action the better the rod will cast. Rods that have a slower action have a wider curve on their parabolic bend, and therefore can store more potential energy when casting. This is called "rod loading." In effect, the more the rod loads, the more of the rod you use to cast. Fast action rods bend closer to the tip, using less of the rod to cast. Other rod characteristics to note are recovery, sensitivity and brittleness. Recovery is a measure of the time it takes the rod to recover after a cast. When you impart energy to a rod upon casting, it vibrates. You can see the tip shaking. That shaking bats the line as it leaves the top guide, causing friction. That friction reduces casting distance. Faster action rods tend to recover faster, but do not load up as well. More moderate action rods tend to recover poorly, but load up better. If you can find a moderate action rod with fast recovery, it will outcast everything else if the rest of the playing field is equal. Sensitivity is obviously important. You want a rod to be able to transmit the feelings you experience when your lure moves underwater, where you can't see it. Higher modulus graphite is more sensitive, although it may be a case of diminishing returns as you get higher and higher up the modulus rating scale. Brittleness is how easily the rod will break. Most high end rods are brittle, as brittleness and sensitivity tend to be indirectly proportional. That's where a lifetime warranty comes into play! So, all things are not created equal and if you think a $50 rod is just as good as a $300 rod, you're wrong! Buy the best equipment you can afford and focus on quality, not quantity. For an all around rod I recommend 6 1/2' or 7' Medium Power/ Fast Action. More than 90% of all the bass fishing you will ever do can be done with this rod. Rod power is more about the weight of the lures you use than the fish you might catch. A Medium Power rod will handle most of the lures you will fish and the fight will be much more fun. Now for the details. I'll list the Power and Action and a specific rod: If I were to fish one rod only: 7" M/F spinning. G.Loomis GLX PR844S If I can fish two, my other rod would be: 7' H/F baitcasting. G.Loomis GLX MBR844C For technique specific applications: Light fishing: 6 1/2' ML/F spinning Soft plastics: 7' M/F spinning Crankbaits, jerkbaits and topwater: 6 1/2 or 7' M/M or MH/M baitcasting Spinnerbaits and buzzbaits: 7' M/F or MH/F baitcasting Jigs, C-rigs and heavy and/or deep running lures: 7' H/F baitcasting And to break it down just a little further, I fish a Heavy Power/ Slow Action glass rod for big, treble hook lures.

bassnut 1276, You can't do that until you tire of catching too many little fish. That is not about tournament fishing, it's about fishing for fun. Tournament fishermen might ocassionally fish for a "kicker", but they need to catch five keepers to win. 12lbs something won the Classic in 2005. So far this winter, on my productive ponds, I have caught eight bass at an average rate of one fish per five hours of fishing. That's pretty slow, but five of the eight have been 5+ lbs. So, that's what I'm talking about. I don't catch numbers, but some of the largemouth bass are over 5 lbs. and that's all I fish for. There are lot's of days in the summer when I only catch seven or eight bass at my ponds and only one or two are over 5lbs. It's not the most productive formula for catching bass.

Raul IS the Bait Monkey, although he claims to ONLY represent Him!

Now that you know what they are, this is why it makes a difference: Lakes that support largemouth, smallmouth and Kentucky bass, walley and stripers will concentrate each species in different places. Largemouth tend to be found in quiet water and on secondary points. Creek channels, submerged road beds and ditches are also points of attraction. These bass tend to seek cover (grass, lilly pads and other vegetation), woody structure (timber and stumps) and manmade structures (boat docks). Most of the other species will stage near primary points or in open water. Smallmouth and Kentucky are more likely to be found in deeper, colder water associated with steep, rocky points in any current that might be present. They will also concentrate on isolated humps, large boulders and rock piles. Smallmouth are rarely associated with "cover". Walley are usually found near similar structure and can be caught on the same baits or lures that we use for smallmouth fishing. Transition and deep pools or depressions are also prime locations. When smallmouth and walley are found in exactly the same location, the bass tend to be shallow and the walley deeper. Stripers suspend in open water and follow schools of baitfish around rather than waiting in ambush for their prey to appear. Kentucky bass are sometimes found in open water, too. They will follow baitfish away from the comforts of cover and structure. I have occasionally caught Kentucky bass and white bass when fishing for striper on a lake, but never largemouth and only rarely smallmouth. So, if your target is largemouth bass, I recommend concentrating on secondary points and coves. If it's smallmouth you are after, head to deeper water.

Fish deep, fish slow and fish big baits for big bass. I have learned to fish structure, not cover. Structure in relatively deep water receives very little fishing pressure.

A crawdad. No, but that doesn't mean anything. I ONLY fish dark and/or natural colors. Maybe all the other colors work, I just don't fish them.

I buy most of my GYCB direct, they obviously have the best selection, but you don't save any money!

4" Fat Boy Ika In all their literature, Yamamoto refers to the lure as the Fat Ika, but I see on their website it is actually called a Fat Boy Ika (92F-10). You can order them direct. My suggested colors are 194J, 208 & 297, but there are many others to choose from.

I like to use topwater, jerkbaits or crankbaits in low light (I rarely throw spinnerbaits unless there is chop). Once the sun comes up over the trees, soft plastics. I'm trying to learn to use jigs during the day, too. Sometimes I'll go with deep crankbaits during the middle of the day, particularly when it's overcast. The late afternoon and early morning are the same for me, topwater, jerkbaits or crankbaits.

I like dark colors: 194J, 208, 297. This has been my #1 lure for largemouth over 5 lbs for the past two years.

What you want is the FAT IKA. The Ika is a smaller version and there is a 5" Ika, but it is an entirely different bait. As for tight cover. It sounds like avid and Raul fish the Fat Ika IN cover, but I fish it AROUND or PARALLEL to cover and structure. For me, it's 90% structure or what some would describe as open water. Be careful throwing it around or under docks, you might get your arm broken!

I don't fish for spawning bass. I think they should be left alone.

And everyone's favorite when it happens to them: PB = Personal Best

Last weekend it wasn't spring. Right now it's WINTER fishing.

Yes. When you work the lure the tentacle are pushed down on the lure then reverse and flutter when it falls. Work it in clear, shallow water so you can see how "alive" this lure actually looks. It is remarkable.

My ponds have no cover, only deep structure. I think I know where they live and I knocked on the door, they just wouldn't answer.

I fish a pond that is generally very productive for me, this weekend. The water is always stained, but is currently almost muddy and cold. Temperatures were in the high 20's and low 30's with some rain and plenty of wind. I fished six or seven hours over a two day period without a bite. I fished three combinations of jigs, two tubes and slow rolled three completely different spinnerbaits. Well, that didn't help much did it? What has been working this winter is a 3/8 oz., Micro Munch Tackle black & blue jig with a GYCB Fat Baby Craw, black with blue flakes (021).

I fish it on spinning tackle, #6 Yo-Zuri Hybrid Ultra Soft, 4/0 EWG Gamakatsu, T-rigged weightless and weedless, skirt up. Although the lure is often described as nothing more than a solid tube, the action is totally different. I work tubes with more of an exaggerated verticle hop so that the lure can exhibit its spiraling fall. The Fat Ika does not spiral. I cast parallel to cover or structure, let the lure settle to the bottom and fish it like a Senko with a short (6-12") horizontal sweep. I then let the lure fall on slack line so that it falls vertically, not moving forward. I work the lure slowly, letting it pause for 10-20 seconds or more before moving it again. I like to picture a crawdad moving over rocks and hiding. You will rarely miss a hook up. When the fish bites, reel down and set the hook firmly. Bass will not let go of this lure.

The Fat Ika and the Palm Tree are the same bait, just different colors. The "magic" of the lure is the slow fall, I would not (do not) fish it deep or with any kind of weight. Mike demonstrated it using 1/2 of a nail weight for a deeper presentation, but I still think it negates the most important aspect of the lure. I fish it weightless in <12' of water, skirt up.

I was at the Bass Pro Spring Classic this past weekend for a seminar on smallmouth bass. Mike Whitten, Mid-South Staff Writter for GYCB's Inside Line Magazine was the featured speaker. Mike demonstrated a variety of lures and presentations in the Bass Pro fish tank. This allows everyone to see how a presentation actually looks underwater and how the fish react. The tank contained largemouth, smallmouth , catfish, crappie and white bass. These are "resident" fish in the BPS aquarium in Memphis. Mike Whitten demonstrated eight lures including tubes, grubs, Lucky Craft Pointer 100, Cordell Gay Blade, 5" Senko and the Magic Lure. Oddly, the smallmouth struck the single tail grub, but none of the largemouth seemed interested. The biggest largemouth in the tank was VERY intersted in the Pointer, but a couple of smaller 5-8 lb fish were more agressive and kept eating the lure. Everything except the catfish were attracted to the Gay Blade, senko and tube. Mike focused on structure, boat positioning and lure presentation. Actually watching him work a bait through the structure in the tank was very educational. He talked about equipment, spinning verses baitcasting gear, specific recommendations as to weight, line size and had a number of interesting thoughts to share with us. All this was interesting and very entertaining, but when he began fishing the Magic Lure, the entire crowd just stood there in awe. Mike Whitten is the CEO of a large company, a member of BPS Pro Staff and a writer for GYCB. His presentation included several different brands of lures and equipment manufacturers. This was not a seminar on GYCB plastics, but the Magic Lure is. Mike first began with setting up the situations where you might use this bait, how to rig it and techniques to fish it. When he tossed it into the tank, it was immediately eaten by a 2-3 lb smallmouth, and he wouldn't let go. When the bait was finally released by the first fish, another smallmouth immediately attacked. Mike retrieved the lure to contiune his talk. The second pitch was about midway in the tank, away from where the smallmouth were suspending. As the lure slowly sank, the biggest bass in the tank came over to investigate, but a fast, more aggessive 7-8 lb largemouth grabbed it away. On the second or third strike by this fish, Mike let her hold the bait, once for five seconds, the next time for eleven. On the final cast, the results were similar: Every largemouth and smallmouth bass in the tank were after this lure, the catfish and white bass did not seem to care. This was the most informational event I have been to in a long time. Whitten covered a lot of ground and talked about aspects of smallmouth fishing that would help even the most experienced fisherman. Other speakers were interesting and their presentations were fun, but no doubt, the Magic Lure stole the show! Oh! The Magic Lure? GYCB Fat Ika.

avid, You guys have a smallmouth species unique to northern Florida and southeastern Georgia. It's called a Suwannee, as in Suwannee River. It is native to that river and its tributaries. The bass is generally smaller than its cousins, but can attain weights exceeding 3 lbs. The State of Florida and World Record is 3 lbs 14 1/4 oz caught on the Suwannee River in 1985.