roadwarrior

There are many types of fishermen: Some men fish and hope to catch one. Some men expect to catch fish and hope to catch a big one. Some men want to catch a lot of fish, they seek the numbers. And some men fish for big fish. Whether they catch many fish is unimportant, as long as the ones they catch are HUGE! I like two kinds of fish: Good Ole Bigguns' and Big Ole Gooduns', and I like catchin' lots of 'em!

rattletrap, You are technically correct, but I think they make an exception on this one! Either way, I'm keeping her.

I always use a trailer. I particularly like the GYCB Fat Baby Craw.

bassin baller & Jnamo, Welcome aboard! I don't fish for spawning bass.

For a price, today's replicas are PERFECT. Not only can you get the exact size of the bass you catch, it can be painted to look EXACTLY like the one you caught. There is NO reason to kill a big fish unless it weighs 22 lbs. 5 oz. or more.

Rolo, "Permanent " not "Transitory", but I'm not really arguing the point that you're making. Maybe everything that is not, and was NEVER alive should be called structure. There is a lot of gray area in the terminology.

Go big or go home. BTW, Zel, Welcome aboard!

Cold and muddy NEVER works for me. If I can find clear or stained water that is the only option I would try. Otherwise, there are some days when I stay home and build my brownie points with the little lady!

The terms "cover" and "structure" are not black and white, there is a little gray in definition and usage. Cover: v. To place something upon or over, so as to protect or conceal. n. The material used upon or over, so as to protect or conceal. I think of cover to be predominately vegetation, grass, weeds, cattails, lillies, standing timber. Things that are transitory in nature. Structure: n. Something made up of a number of parts that are held or put together in a particular way. I think of structure as permanent in nature. Examples include points, cliffs, drop-offs, rock or mud bottoms, boulders, channels, pilings and stump beds. The gray area: Sometimes cover and structure overlap. I consider rockpiles "structure" and in a lake they are usually "permanent in nature", but on a river they can be transitory. A dock may be both: the planking provides "cover", but the supporting pylons represent "structure". I don't think a strict definition is required when it relates to largemouth bass. Largemouth in their natural habitat are shallow water, vegetation oriented fish, but they adapt very quickly to changing environments. The best example is manmade reserviors where huge areas of vegetation (cover) was once available and over the years has vanished. These "old" reserviors still produce huge bass, but the bass may now be more orientated to "structure" in deeper water. The fishing may not seem as good as it was in "the old days", but that is because the fish have adapted to the changes in the lake. Fishermen need to adapt, too. Smallmouth are another story. This species is not native to most of the country, but it too has a tremendous ability for adaptation. Instinctively, bronzebacks thrive in current. The orientation to structure is a result of developing in a river environment. Smallmouth are rarely attracted to transitory vegetation (cover), but tend to live and feed at ambush points defined by permanent "structure". Cover vs. structure, the definitions are blurred and the usage ambiguous. Here's something simple: If you are a smallmouth fisherman look for "rocks" in current, in deep water, that's a "structure" you can count on.

What Chris said...EXACTLY!

1. Jerkbait 2. Long sweeps/ long pause 3. 5' 4. Primary points 5. Hard bottoms, rocky points OH! That's the What, How and Where of what I would have done. Does that count?

It depends a lot on exactly where you are, but if it's still "winter", stick with deeper presentation. Water temperatures in the low forties are still cold. You might try suspending jekbaits on north points, but that depends on water clarity.

Thank you Chris! Well class, any questions?

Welcome aboard! Fishing will pick up over the next couple of weeks. There is a wealth of information in the BassResource.com library. That's where you should start. I think you will be pleasantly surprised at just how much this resource can help you to get going. Every article has a number of links and every link directs you to more links. Take a few notes on the things you want to try and information that specifically adresses the situations you face. Believe me, it is ALL here. Catching bass is really pretty easy, finding them can be a challenge!

Suggestions for improving the forum are ALWAYS welcome.

Brad_Coovert, I just ordered some 3/4 oz, single willow blade, Ledgebusters for this specific application. This type of structure, deep and away from the bank, is one of my favorite situations. Besides the lures you mentioned, I would add Gitzits to your list, especially the Micro Munch Tackle El Gordo (Black Neon) for largemouth or the Mizmo 3 1/2" tube (Kent's Classic (baby diaper yellow)) for smallmouth. Back to "How to attack" I would fish the ledge parallel above, then below the drop. I would then move out and fish the ledge bringing the lure over the drop and letting it fall. Regardless of how successful you are at any particular time, I would fish this structure regularly.

Welcome aboard! Fish parallel to the bank, cover and structure to start with, just like you do when fishing from the bank. The only thing that has changed is that you now have more options and can cover more water. Personally, I like to fish structure in deeper water, primary and secondary points for example. There are portions of these areas where you just could not reach from shore, but now you can.

Well, I know this is easier said than done, but what I think generally happens is that we get so excited, we tend to get in a hurry. The more big fish you land, the easier it becomes to land them! Duh...My point is this: Take your time and BELIEVE you are going to land the big fish. Personally, I like to see them run and jump, I enjoy the fight more than any other part of fishing. When fishing for smallmouth, I know that the fish will ALWAYS bolt at the boat and I anticipate that happening. Generally, the first time you actually get the bass to the boat only represents the half-way point in the battle: Rod up and no expectations of landing the fish right then. That is when I depend on the rod and the reel drag to do the work. I have rarely lost a big fish using a single hook, big lures and treble hooks present a different set of issues. Either way, patience is a virtue. The other side of the coin is using heavy equipment with the drag cranked down. If you have watched the "Big Bass" videos fishing swimbaits, there's no fight, those boys literally reel like madmen and jerk the fish into the boat. A big hookset moves a fish out of their comfort zone and disorients them. A super fast retrieve gets them in the boat before they know what hit them. I don't fish that way myself, but it's another option to consider.

bugman, The Fat Ika is very productive for smallmouth, too. In still water, like on a lake I have had some success, but I generally fish deeper for smallmouth. I have not used it extensively in strong current, again, I ususally fish deeper water and this lure will not fall fast enough to get down deep in moving water without weight. I don't use weights with the Fat Ika becaus the "magic" is created by the slow fall and weight would have a big impact on the action. It might work, I just haven't tried it weighted.

You should work within the rod's guidelines with regard to both lure weight and line strength. That is how the rod was designed. Castability and lure weight go hand in hand. For example, a Heavy Power/ Slow Action rod will cast a 1 oz. lure as well or better than a ML rod will cast a 1/4 oz. lure, but that same H/S rod will NOT do well casting a 1/8 oz. jig! So, match the tool with the job and you will be happy with the performance of your equipment.

Hmm... It would have to blame it on the fish! Seriously, sometimes they're just not biting or as Other wrote, "I believe it's all in the bass' mood.

I use to tie the Rapala Knot on small Rapalas, but I'm more comfortable using a split ring these days.

When tieing the initial part of the knot, before bringing the lure through the loop, the line should not be twisted or overlapped. That can result in the knot cutting itself. In effect, you might think of it as working with four seperate lines that only cross at the point where the initial knot is tied. Once the lure is passed through the loop, the line should be thoroughly wetted and the knot tightened by SLOWLY pulling the tag end tight. With light line and small hooks, be sure to check closely that the line has not caught on the eyelet.

I tie a Palomar Knot on everything except big treble hook lures. On these bigger baits the Palomar is just too unwieldy, so I tie a Trilene Knot on these lures. Both are rated 100% knots and I have never had any problems. I want to point out however, that the line should not be twisted if you use the Palomar, it must be tied correctly to maintain 100% integrity.

Check your line constantly. A burr, abrasion or thin spot is NOT "probably okay." Retie after catching a big fish or being hung up if it takes a lot of pressure to get undone. If your knot is not perfect, it's not good enough.