Lead Head

I will recommend going custom, especially if you haven't had one in the past. If you can swing something built on a Point Blank rod blank, they are really special. The PB731MHXF is my absolute favorite 3/8oz jig rod.

I was looking as well. I found a C473 MH/XS, it's in the carbon 4 series. In the pdf, it's described as "medium-heavy extra-slow". Is this the blank you were talking about @Delaware Valley Tackle?

Daiwa Steez 100sh with a $15 bfs spool off aliexpress. Added hybrid spool bearings. NFC Delta DS6107 (a drop shot blank) built into a casting rod. It's rated 1/8-3/8 with a XF tip. I put this setup together for 1/16oz neds. It's works better than expected, the tip let's me launch TRDs and it still has enough backbone to handle 5lb fish (no bass that size yet, but several drum). I also used it to throw small top waters chasing schools this past summer. Running 15lb braid to leader.

Thanks for the info!

If you're going to use permagloss try to do it when the humidity is low. Down here in the AR summer, that stuff sets up faster than superglue. I like cpxtra better. For my purposes, it's the same thing just a little slower to set up.

I use sniper for a leader with cranks and jigs alot. It works great. I have landed everything from 4lb bass to 5' gar. A few carp (actually hooked in the mouth... apparently AR river carp are predatory) that were easily over 20lb, and more 8-10lb drum than I can count. 30 and 40lb suffix 832 to a 14lb sniper leader (25lb for jigs in sharp rocks. It works for me,

@newapti5 What type of paint do you use? If you could share your process, or direct me to somewhere I can find information specifically for prepping/ painting a reel it would be much appreciated.

After a google search, I see he is talking about a company called Fishin' Edge Rods, not Edge Rods (NFC). I've never heard of them before just now, and I'm in central AR. It would be interesting to get some feedback on them. It could just be my browser, but their website is... lacking.

One of the biggest problems people new to braid run into is keeping it tight on the spool, especially while fishing. Working a lure (stop-and-go retrieve, hopping a jig, ect..) introduces "loose spots" on your spool over time. As soon as I notice my line getting a little loose on the spool, I turn and cast as far as I can, then pinch the line in front of my reel and reel the line back up under tension. Depending on what and how I'm fishing, I might do this every 6 or 7 casts, or every 20-30.

Back to your line question, if you want to throw all those, your probably better off braid to leader. If you can get by without the frog/top water stuff, straight FC. I just don't trust anything but straight braid for frogs, and FC is super annoying for anything topwater. You can always buy a spare spool for braid, I'm pretty sure the 21 Zillion runs a 34mm spool. There are a lot of options out there for a 34mm diawa.

It all depends on your definition of "higher-end". If a Tatula, SLX, or Speed Spool is your definition of high-end, then go with a reel in that class and get a budget rod. If those reels are your definition of budget, then go with a reel in that class or better, and get a high-end rod. I also agree with the sentiment that moving baits benefit more from a nice reel than they do rod, and bottom contact baits benefit more from a nice rod than they do reel.

Just packing the wraps smoothes the ridges quite a bit. Noticing this is what gave me the idea to just burnish them down a little before I actually started wrapping. Maybe I should add a some clarification. I'm not suggesting you grind the ridges off with your burnishing tool, just lightly smooth them. As to the warranty, I won't speculate. That's a question for NFC. Delta blanks are pretty darn tough and while I'm not personally worried about voiding any warranties with some targeted burnishing, that's just me. I advise anyone to reach out to the manufacturer before doing anything they think could void a warranty.

I love the Delta blanks! Best bang-for-your-buck out there when on sale (IMO). They do have ridges, but smoothing them with a burnishing tool where your guides are going makes them almost a non-factor.

Crocs, when it's cold I wear wool socks and crocs. When it's really cold (for me that's upper 30s - lower 40s) I break down and wear muck boots.

Based on my experience with a fuego CT and the old tatula sv, I assume you will get standard sv performance. For me that would be slightly less casting distance, and far better spool control. Also expect skipping performance to greatly increase. As always ymmv, and since I haven't tried that particular combination I can't speak to the strength of the magnets. With all of my spool swapping, I have found some reels exaggerate the sv effect more than others.

You might already know this but it's worth mentioning. If you feel like you aren't getting the distance you should from your daiwa reels, check your spool tension. They are intended to be used with none. Many people (myself included) start off adjusting the spool tension like you do for other reels. When I backed it to 0, I got much better casting distance. You can also try flushing the stock bearings and adding 1 drop of light oil (I like tsi-321). This should give you noticeable improvement from your stock bearings. From there you can decide if purchasing aftermarket bearings is worth it or not.

Lightest I throw is a 1/16oz Ned. I have a fuego CT, and old steez 100 with cheap $15 bfs spools from aliexpress. These spools work great for me after replacing the junk bearings that come on them.

Carbon fiber

I haven't found a FC that I like that is cheaper than invisix or sniper. I like sniper better than invisix, and the performance increase from sniper to tatsu isn't enough to justify the cost (for me). In short, I agree with Mike. I have a buddy who landed a 80lb+ foul hooked carp with 15 or 20lb bps fc, so it's definitely decent line. Keep in mind that fc can be picky about what knot you use. FWIW I think he uses the double pitzen.

Your layout looks fine. I usually build 10, 7kb, 5kb, then 5kt for the rest. The 7kb is for esthetics, not performance. For what it's worth, I go as big as 50lb 832 to a 25lb sunline sniper leader through #5 guides.

Pretty much any modern baitcaster that isn't labeled bfs or finesse should handle 3/8 and up no problem.

That is enough for 4 "batches" of 3cc each (a 6cc total batch). To put it in perspective, I (and I believe most other builders) use a minimum of 2 "batches" per rod. It can absolutely be done 1 per rod, but it gives you little flexibility and you will have to be ok with keeping more cosmetic defects.

I start with about 6' of leader and will retie about twice. I try to keep at least 4' on big hookset rigs. I definitely swing "too hard" and have my drag "too tight" by most standards. If I have ever failed my leader knot on a hookset with my current system, I can't remember it. 40lb 832 to 25lb sniper - jigs in sharp rocks 30lb 832 to 14lb sniper - T-rigs and lighter jigs (plus pretty much any other bottom contact presentation) I use the simplified GT knot from the false YouTube video a few years back. It's faster and easier than a FG, and I did have a few knot failures when combining big swings with other leader knots I tried. I will mention that when I first started using a leader, yozuri hybrid really didn't like big hooksets. It even failed on me with a FG. Could have been something I was doing wrong, or a couple of bad spools, but when I switched to sniper all my problems seemed to go away and I haven't changed anything in 3 or 4 years.

Just like @papajoe222, if they weren't lefty, I would be all up in your DMs.

If you are already swapping rods, it seems swapping spools would be the way to go. Odds are you can find a bfs or low capacity spool for a reel you already own if keeping costs low is your priority.