Will1248

@burros and then partnered with opticians and then lobby for their monopoly forcing the government and insurance companies to wildly overpay for a test you could easily administer by yourself and of course glasses. The best part is mine only cover 6 months worth of contacts by insurance!?!?!

Norman Magnum Speed clips are phenominal dont let anyone tell you otherwise. Go get some right now the are stout and save so much time. If you spend 5 minutes a day or more retying a new lure versus the 5 seconds it takes to clip on and off a new crank bait. Furthermore, since I only have one dedicated cranking rod I can power fish while swapping baits for depth and color to see what they are hitting in far less time.

@Sam I really wanted a white colored flat belly and Green holo jerk but they didnt have any. Just pay it forward though, you help someone, I help someone and the world gets better. If you save them you can probably make a decent penny in a year or two.

@Sam I am in Columbia, SC, if you have an Ollies outlet store then a few of the action first series are going for $4 now but hurry. Sams and Kmart had them many moons ago about 2014-15 I think. I always found them on sale at random places and now I regret that terribly.

But do they ever experience backlash and aggregate loss after the takeover? Sebile had a market for very innovative and productive products that sold like hot cakes, but now they are gone. Wouldnt it make sense to test the waters with the current unaltered product and compare it to a new cheaper crappy option under the same brand? Or does extinguishing and forcing a buy that many people probably wont purchase after one of the new items really make that much more money at the cost of reputation?

@smalljaw67 Are you familiar with the Storm sub-wart? That sounds like the exact action it was before it was discontinued. Manns minus 1 is okay but they dont bite it the same. Ill have to pick on up for sure. Ive been butthurt about it for a long time.

So when pradco, purefishing etc.. take over lets say norman, war eagle, sebile, and Xcalibur. Why do they discontinue the lures and colors that grew the fan base??? That doesnt make any sense. They cut great products only to replace them with crappier, cheaper or just garbage models. Xcalibur Xr50 to Booyah lipless. Colors... gone. Great hooks... gone. The design is similar but they run completely different. It seems like when a small company has a great product for cheap a big company buys them out. The products that helped make the brand are tossed aside. Cheaper materials get used for an increased price driving a once amazing budget product away forever. They discontinue entire lines, only to never replace them with the same quality for price. THATS WHAT GREW THE BRAND!! They assimilate the technology only to never, or barely use it, but with less quality and an increased price. Every time it seems that I find a cheap and good quality lure line. It gets discontinued or bought out. Storm subwart. Xcalibur brand. Sebile brand. Storm arashi 3' rattling. I feel like the brands usually diminish products and innovation as they go on. What works and isnt broke is thrown away after inquisition. Rant over but dang do I miss subwarts, manns minus-1 is close but for some reason I catch so much more on the one bass pattern that I have left, it has caught over 100 alone. If they scrap Norman gel coating or N series it will be a very sad day. How do you feel about the bitter sweet takeovers and discontinuations?

I usually use a 30 size for 8lb i find it casts, handles and is less prone to get tangled around the spool. For 10lb unless is thinner line the 35 seems best for regular 10lb, though it is definitely bigger than an expected set up. I use a 40 with MH rods and a 30 for M Ftip. A 30 size is the standard for bass usually people use braid, I find copolymer cheaper, easier and just as effective as I am not using it to fish around razor blades or whatever it is they do that requires it. Point and case the smaller reel will feel better, be lighter and balances the rod better as a 35 will make it bottom heavy and feel unbalanced. Just set the drag a little low and catch fish. I cant remember the last time I had a fish lost on 8lb because of the line. Proper reeling and a net will let you land any bass you want. Model. Lb test. Rod length/Action 20-25. 6lb. 5'6"- 6'6" UL 30. 8lb. 6'-7' Standard/M 35. 10-12lb. 7' and up MH Again a 30 feels better but I would shy from 10lb test. If you are dead set on that line(10-12) then go with the 35.

@austinFThis is the budget anglers 3 rod system for cheap effective and long lasting gear. If you want all purpose rigs the 6'6" M action F tip with a 6.2:1 reel with 8lb Trilene XL(best casting distance for the price) is for everything which you have, so two things a stout 7' Medium Heavy action Fast tip rod with a 7.1:1-6.2:1 reel ratio baitcaster with 12lb Berkeley Big Game mono(or flouro but this is cheap it works fantastic and lasts longer). This rod covers jigs, worms, spinnerbaits, smaller swimbaits, bigger jerkbaits and more, but can be used for frogs, flipping and pitching light cover if you want to swing that way(joke intended) until you want to upgrade to a 7'6" Heavy action Xtra fast tip for the 2oz artillery weights for really punching through thick grass. And after that personally I would recommend a 7' Medium Heavy action Moderate tip for crankbaits and a few odd baits. With a 5.4:1 gear baitcaster spooled with 10-12lb FLOUROCARBON(absolute must for deep crankbaits). S 6'6" M action F tip with a 6.2:1 6-10lb(8 is best from much experience) C 7' Medium Heavy action Fast tip 7.1:1-6.2:1 10-12lb C 7' Medium Heavy action Moderate 5.4:1 10-12lb Now the crankbait rod can be a Medium action but if you plan to throw any crankbait deeper than 12ft or a squarebill over an ounce then stay with the MH or else you will have a workout and possibly break a rod or reel(strips the drag). So initially a Med. Mod isnt advised. Moveover, look for a very "noodley" rod with a very moderate tip but with a decent backbone so you can fish smaller cranks and not have them pop out and fly toward your face. All this being said I reccomend Lews Laser MG Speed Spool baitcasters they run about $80 but are hands down the best bang for your buck reel in the medium price range of $50-100 and they last forever. For the rods I reccomend Lews David Fritts Perfect Crankbait rod also $80 (they actually have a new combo out called the Crankback for $100 with the right reel instead of a $160 set up) They are very limber, light and set hooks very well again a great bang for your buck. Lastly an Abu Garcia Vendetta 7' MH Ftip rod is very stiff, has a solid backbone and if you catch it right you can get them for $30 but normally about $70. All of these rods will fish pretty much anything you want besides alabama rigs. The spinning and the worm rod are really all you need but if you like crankbaits at all and will fish for hours at a time, if you have the money just get a crankbait rod they help so much and make it more fun instead of a chore. This is all suggestions and just an opinion. Hope that I helped. -Will

This is the budget anglers 3 rod system for cheap effective and long lasting gear. If you want all purpose rigs the 6'6" M action F tip with a 6.2:1 reel with 8lb Trilene XL(best casting distance for the price) is for everything which you have, so two things a stout 7' Medium Heavy action Fast tip rod with a 7.1:1-6.2:1 reel ratio baitcaster with 12lb Berkeley Big Game mono(or flouro but this is cheap it works fantastic and lasts longer). This rod covers jigs, worms, spinnerbaits, smaller swimbaits, bigger jerkbaits and more, but can be used for frogs, flipping and pitching light cover if you want to swing that way(joke intended) until you want to upgrade to a 7'6" Heavy action Xtra fast tip for the 2oz artillery weights for really punching through thick grass. And after that personally I would recommend a 7' Medium Heavy action Moderate tip for crankbaits and a few odd baits. With a 5.4:1 gear baitcaster spooled with 10-12lb FLOUROCARBON(absolute must for deep crankbaits). S 6'6" M action F tip with a 6.2:1 6-10lb(8 is best from much experience) C 7' Medium Heavy action Fast tip 7.1:1-6.2:1 10-12lb C 7' Medium Heavy action Moderate 5.4:1 10-12lb Now the crankbait rod can be a Medium action but if you plan to throw any crankbait deeper than 12ft or a squarebill over an ounce then stay with the MH or else you will have a workout and possibly break a rod or reel(strips the drag). So initially a Med. Mod isnt advised. Moveover, look for a very "noodley" rod with a very moderate tip but with a decent backbone so you can fish smaller cranks and not have them pop out and fly toward your face. All this being said I reccomend Lews Laser MG Speed Spool baitcasters they run about $80 but are hands down the best bang for your buck reel in the medium price range of $50-100 and they last forever. For the rods I reccomend Lews David Fritts Perfect Crankbait rod also $80 (they actually have a new combo out called the Crankback for $100 with the right reel instead of a $160 set up) They are very limber, light and set hooks very well again a great bang for your buck. Lastly an Abu Garcia Vendetta 7' MH Ftip rod is very stiff, has a solid backbone and if you catch it right you can get them for $30 but normally about $70. All of these rods will fish pretty much anything you want besides alabama rigs. The spinning and the worm rod are really all you need but if you like crankbaits at all and will fish for hours at a time, if you have the money just get a crankbait rod they help so much and make it more fun instead of a chore. This is all suggestions and just an opinion. Hope that I helped. -Will

@daxford This is the budget anglers 3 rod system for cheap effective and long lasting gear. If you want all purpose rigs the 6'6" M action F tip with a 6.2:1 reel with 8lb Trilene XL(best casting distance for the price) is for everything which you have, so two things a stout 7' Medium Heavy action Fast tip rod with a 7.1:1-6.2:1 reel ratio baitcaster with 12lb Berkeley Big Game mono(or flouro but this is cheap it works fantastic and lasts longer). This rod covers jigs, worms, spinnerbaits, smaller swimbaits, bigger jerkbaits and more, but can be used for frogs, flipping and pitching light cover if you want to swing that way(joke intended) until you want to upgrade to a 7'6" Heavy action Xtra fast tip for the 2oz artillery weights for really punching through thick grass. And after that personally I would recommend a 7' Medium Heavy action Moderate tip for crankbaits and a few odd baits. With a 5.4:1 gear baitcaster spooled with 10-12lb FLOUROCARBON(absolute must for deep crankbaits). S 6'6" M action F tip with a 6.2:1 6-10lb(8 is best from much experience) C 7' Medium Heavy action Fast tip 7.1:1-6.2:1 10-12lb C 7' Medium Heavy action Moderate 5.4:1 10-12lb Now the crankbait rod can be a Medium action but if you plan to throw any crankbait deeper than 12ft or a squarebill over an ounce then stay with the MH or else you will have a workout and possibly break a rod or reel(strips the drag). So initially a Med. Mod isnt advised. Moveover, look for a very "noodley" rod with a very moderate tip but with a decent backbone so you can fish smaller cranks and not have them pop out and fly toward your face. All this being said I reccomend Lews Laser MG Speed Spool baitcasters they run about $80 but are hands down the best bang for your buck reel in the medium price range of $50-100 and they last forever. For the rods I reccomend Lews David Fritts Perfect Crankbait rod also $80 (they actually have a new combo out called the Crankback for $100 with the right reel instead of a $160 set up) They are very limber, light and set hooks very well again a great bang for your buck. Lastly an Abu Garcia Vendetta 7' MH Ftip rod is very stiff, has a solid backbone and if you catch it right you can get them for $30 but normally about $70. All of these rods will fish pretty much anything you want besides alabama rigs. The spinning and the worm rod are really all you need but if you like crankbaits at all and will fish for hours at a time, if you have the money just get a crankbait rod they help so much and make it more fun instead of a chore. This is all suggestions and just an opinion. Hope that I helped. -Will

@drew4779 thank you for responding this has been burning a hole in my skull. I just find it weird how an amazing, award winning brand, fantastic color palate, good hooks, and weight transfer system lures that normally costs $10-15 is always on sale for about $4-6. It seems like a bunch of people do not buy them and I was just curious if I was missing something, like they cause leprosy.

I might have to take a trip there in the summer. That is perfect for all of my strengths, I shore and dock fished for the longest time growing up. Shakey heads, soft jerks(or hard), senkos, spinnerbaits, squarebills and lipless cranks will tear up that lake. I hate 40ft drop offs so forget that noise. I always look for shallow flats when trying to outfish my friends and 9/10 I do. You just gotta experiment for what colors work and the local shad, craw and baitfish. For locations look where you can see a visable current and then a rock or very thick grass because they will hide there and ambush squarebills and jerks if you can get it in the middle where the current most likely carried the grass away making a narrow gap.

Anytime I find Sebile baits at various places usually like a Kmart, sams club or some other weird place they are almost ALWAYS on sale. Is this a sign that they are bad? Sebile is not talked about much except for their magic swimmer swimbait a few years ago.Other than that I really can not find anything about them? Does this mean they are bad? I have tested them and they have great hooks (mustad sometimes owner), run true right out of the box, cast for miles and the sunfish series has a very good erratic wobble of the 4 that I have tested, more than 3 so it is significantly significant. I picked up some jerkbaits to test them this week, but why are they not talked about that much they look very good for how cheap they are.

I think the zoom centipede is shamefully underrated. If you put a 1/8 or 1/4 oz about a foot above it and break a toothpick to wedge it to the line. Just slowly drag it along the bottom and man do they nail it. Preferably Pumpkin and Green Pumpkin work the best in my humble opinion, in that order.

To keep it simple and just fish with universal basic colors such as green pumpkin/white/black soft plastics and shad/white/ghost colored hardbaits. That way you save money in the long run. P.s. you only need 1 to 2 rods a 6'6" Med F tip 6.2:1 spinning and a 7' Med.Heavy Fast tip 7.1:1 baitcaster. Everything else is extra. Just keep it simple.

Hey yall, I picked up some Sebile squarebill sunfish a year ago on a sale and oh my gosh did I love their action. I found a few again on sale this year at a grocery store of all places for $4. They are almost always on sale when and if I can find the brand. They run true and erratic out of the box, decent hooks and the weight system is fantastic for the price. Anyone else enthralled with their other proucts? Are they hit or miss? I need to get into hard jerks since I love soft jerks but I need to hit a better depth consistently. So how are the bull cranks, bull minnows and flat shads? Thanks!

Take one rod(spinning) and a small tackle box or bag(like a satchel, all you need is grn pumpkin plastics 99% of the time with pond fishing). Wear blue jeans and a long sleeve columbia shirt that you roll up after brush and just trudge through it backwards so your rod doesnt snag.

^This

If you have everything already I would splurge for a nice small 2-4 seater pond prowler or jon boat. About $500 and you can fish for shorter stints without having to take the trailer and put in gas and take off and on the cover and pull out the seats and and and. Simple boat, easy fish, more time for fun.

Coming from a recent kid (21 its not as fun as they said), who lived next to a pond, a professional babysitter often times next to a lake and as an elder child in a house with two very young twins. When they can walk and understand basic speech so 3-4 is the best, shoot even 2 if they are a stud. A zebco underspin with barbless straight circle hooks and powerbait and even if they do not know what is happening they will love it.

Howdy guys and gals! With the Classic coming to my home state and my girlfriends home town again, I have some useful tips for anyone who will be in Anderson/Clemson area this coming week. I recently fished Lake Hartwell last weekend with my girlfriends father for just about the entire day roughly 10 hours. Just thought I would throw in some helpful information and reward those prudent enough to read this post. First off if you dont have any, get a few cranks in Pro Blue. They were nailing Herring colored baits all day. I started with Chrome/Blue Arashi 1/2 oz Vibe(Rat-l-trap) to locate fish, best luck when ripping it through grass near a good current off a bank. They are sitting around 20 ft deep in the mornings until about 10am. Then slowly rising up to around 2-7ft deep as the day goes on. At that time I started using an Arashi 5 silent on some flats up past Clemsux(GO *****) and got a lot of hits. Though I would recommend slowing it down and kinda popping it in bursts once they hit it as I am sure with how cold it is I was reeling too fast. My best technique is hands down soft jerkbaits. Listen carefully, White Pearl Zoom Super fluke with a RED THIN WIRE 4/0. I saw the buggers chase the sucker to the boat with my weighted flutter hook enough to tick me off and change the hook as initially it was too difficult to let the fluke sink to depth with how fast my gfs old man was trolling. Then past 2pm or so, slow and deep pulls on a bass colored Chug Bug in quiet wooded coves caught some nice bass nothing over 3lbs where I was but if I controlled the boat I am sure that I would have produced bigger farther back in some coves. Overall SLOW IT DOWN, if you get a hit stay there for a bit and use slow erratic movements. If you get a hit with a calm cove nearby, check out the 5-10ft depth in the cove. STAY IN THE SUN. Small openings in treelines or cooking flats are where they will be early morning as it will heat up better and as a result the baitfish will pass through. I would test deep problue/Chrome blue/foxy shad(water clarity/sun) hard jerkbaits, a C-rig and various spooning techniques during the practice day(s) as I forgot to do that since I was already getting hits, but I am betting that a deep spoon would probably do better, and the Crig allows you to put a fluke or ribbontail into the strike zone faster and longer. Anyway, best of luck and I hope this helps the few who might skim across this before the tourney. Best regards, Will