papajoe222

For our area of the country, in natural lakes, I stick to colors that mimic the natural forage. Basically bluegill, craw and some minnow colors. For spinnerbaits, I'd skip the craw colors and if you're looking to limit the number of each lure type, don't go overboard on having a bunch of different colors. IMO, color is near the bottom of my list. Variety in lure sizes and retrieve speeds comes first.

I recently purchased my first bladed jigs. Yea, I'm slow getting to the table. I never bought into the need for something that does basically, IMO, what a spinnerbait does. I was proven wrong last season and decided to pull up a chair. I'm more interested in their application. I assume it's similar to a spinnerbait, or stroking a jig and I would lean toward using the same trailers I do for them, especially seeing as I have a ton of them.

I'm confused. What's the problem? The bait monkey? Phasing out spinnerbaits for a better lure? Or is it your wallet getting too light? I only have one spinnerbait rod. I have five cranking sticks. I don't want to know how many cranks I own, but I just saw a custom painted Little Jon that I gotta have.

This is something that many members here are familiar with: Fishing History, which means approaching things the way it worked last time, or in your case a presentation that always worked during that time frame. There are so many variables in bass fishing that attempting to figure them all out will cause you both frustration and fishless days. I'm not saying don't start out your day with something that worked before, but don't force feed it to the bass in an attempt to get the same response you did previously. If you keep two things in mind you'll be 'successful' more times than not. Cover the water column until you locate fish (top, middle, bottom) and determine the activity level of the fish. figuring out those two things quickly, you can still have those days you had with a jerkbait and you never know, you may start out your day and never switch anything because you'll be catching them from the get go.

Thanks all. I was using the Z-Rust strips, but didn't know they would only last one season. Lesson learned. I tried the silicon packets, but with the same result. I'm going to combine drying and using new strips every season. Thanks again

I have the majority of my gear organized for the upcoming season. I'm down to replacing and sharpening hooks. I have boxes for willow blade spinnerbaits, Colorado and Indiana blade spinnerbaits, in-line spinners and buzzbaits. You guessed it, rusted hooks in every box! I know what I'll be doing for storing them next winter as the rust preventative I've been using has failed on more than one occasion. I just wish Plano would come out with something like Flambeau has. Their factory is less than an hour drive and I can purchase them below retail price. Flambeau boxes are pricey.

I live within an hour's drive of two states. If I win all three states, what do I get? Is there a special classification for entering the winning score in all three categories for one state? If I hook a fish in one state, but land it in another, can I enter it for both states. So many unanswered questions. BTW, I'm only 1hr 15min. from Michigan, so I know of someone that should be shaking in his boots as soon as he reads this!!

If I hit the power plant lakes, I'll say March 12th. If I wait for ice-out on my home lake, I'll say April 19th.

You'll still end up with a negative number. Not because of the equation, but because you and math are like oil and water. Wait, I'm supposed to insult Andy. Sorry, my bad.

I'm guessing you had a supplier of bone colored tubes and your stockpile is drying up. If you still have a couple left, I'm sure anyone that pours tubes could match them. If not, a white tube and a colored Sharpie may do the job with a little experimentation.

If by snag proof you mean picking up vegetation, I can see why you ask and I can't offer anything. If you're talking about snagging on laydowns, standing timber, docks or rip rap, IMO you're giving up a big percentage of hookups. You may as well avoid the cover because that's where cranks do their best.

Mine is forgetting my game plan the instant my foot hits the front deck and I revert to my thought process as a teenager. It's kind of like what happens when you head into a room to do something and as soon as you pass through the doorway to that room, you forget why you were going in there (anyone over 50 can relate). In my case, I research the body of water, the weather for the previous few days as well as the current trend, put together a plan and a back up in case I'm way off base, etc. l go over the plan in my head as I drive to the lake, to the point that I visualize putting it in action, launch the boat, park and untie from the dock and the second my foot hits the deck...................................

I'm liking that knot because of the double line through the eye. It may become the replacement for my favorite double Pitzen, AKA the Jimmy Houston knot.

When I first started using fluorocarbon lines, I had this exact same problem. The line would break on the cast. I'd loose the lure and sometimes 15yrds of line. I figured out that it was my fault as I often times would kink the line when adding slack, only to reel over that kink. That is what may be happening with you. Once I figured this out, I only had to deal with knots breaking and I eliminated that problem by never using fluoro as a main line for single hook presentations (jigs, T-rigs spinnerbaits).

I live in northern Illinois and even the ponds aren't anywhere near thawing, but if you've a lake by you that is, go for it. For a dropshot in cold clear water, I'd opt for something small that has a built in scent. I'm partial to nose hooking a 2in. tube in smoke/black flake, or a black Reaper. I really don't think there's just one or two baits that could work, but those are the ones I start with just after ice-out. The downside to using a drop shot right after ice-out is you don't know the depth the fish are holding. A double Fluke rig can be fished at any depth as well as a nose hooked Senko.

I don't think this website can support a file big enough for pics of my tackle and that's just rods, reels, accessories and tools. I know it won't support all my lures, jigs and hooks. I have an idea that may work for you, but only if you have a BPS or Cabela's near you. Take a pic of each isle of baits, hard and soft, and think: Papajoe has this, as you look through the pics.

I learned to fish using spinning gear and reeling using my left hand. When I switched to casting gear, the only option was right hand retrieve. I resisted purchasing a LH casting reel for over 40yrs., until last season. I don't know why I waited so long to give one a try, I blame it on my wrist. I can now work a Spook with my rod tip down and not to the side. Same goes for cranking. and my hooksets are better for it, too.

For a main line, I'm on board the Tatsu train. I'm not concerned with line stretch as using a leader vs. straight braid, it really doesn't factor in. I did notice that Blue Label has a larger diameter than most fluoro main lines, but it's thinner than the YoZuri Jar11501 mentioned.

Yea, been there, doing that. The most impactful change I've made, as far as fishing goes, it the amount of time I spend on the water fishing. About four hours of continual chucking and winding, or pitching, or worming, is all this 75yr old can muster. I may be in the boat longer depending on how far from the launch I travel, or how scenic the surroundings are, but the days of 8hrs. of continual fishing are gone.

Looking for a fluorocarbon line to use solely as leader. I've reconsidered my stance on using leaders with braid as I feel I may be missing out on bites in the clear waters up here and even if it only results in one or two more bites a day, those may be the only bites I get. I've been a loyal user of Seaguar lines for quite a while now and recently converted to fluorocarbon for most of my presentations. I'd rather use a line designed for use as a leader than one made for use as a main line. As I only use braid to leader on my baitcasters, I'm not concerned with line diameter vs. lb. test, more with abrasion and knot strength. Is Blue Label a good choice and if there are others you feel may be better, pleas chime in?

I don't recall, but I know it's lighter weight than the one pictured, maybe version one as it about ten years old.

I love my Columbia rain jacket. Lightweight, easy to pack in your tackle box, cool to wear when its hot, doubles as a wind breaker and keeps me dry. I'm sure there are others out there that'll do the same, but I like the fact that they field test all their apparel prior to putting it up for sale.

Thanks. This is the one I’d seen one of the pros tie, but I couldn’t find a step by step All the wrapping is done between the line tie and the keeper. The one I was ising, I had to push the wraps over the keeper and pinch tje line tie to keep the wraps in place while tightening the knot.

I'm looking to change my snell knot. I'm comfortable with tying it, but it's a bear to keep the loops above the keeper and under the line tie. I know there are a couple of easy to tie ones, just wondering which ones you guys use.

Another case of one man's garbage is another's treasure. I modify the ones I use adding belly and tail trebles and removing the ones it comes with. Great bass, pike and muskie bait. I caught two muskie last July over 40in. on one while there was a muskie tournament going on. I believe it was Heddon that came out with a buzz plug that Bill Dance promoted. I bought four and when they didn't produce, I pulled the blades and tossed 'em.