papajoe222

Along with sky and water clarity, I'll check the weather pattern for a few days prior. That factor is kind of a given if fishing the local lake, but because one of my favorite lakes is a two hour drive. Water temp. Is something I take into consideration once I get on the water, same with the wind.

I keep the majority in the original bags and keep the ones I'll be using in a Flambeau 1/2 satchel. The few I keep in boxes are hollow body swim baits (the pkgs. are too bulky) and toads.

I keep the majority of mine in a Flambeau box with their Z-Rust dividers Some technique specific hooks I keep in the package, but put it in a box with the baits.

I retired my Daiwa Procaster PMF1000 a couple of seasons ago, it was my first low profile baitcaster. However, I still use my procaster PMA10 which has the thumb bar. I can't remember how old it is.

If you decide not to go with the kit, give the good folks there a call. They can walk you through all the components so that it doesn't become a guessing game. For your first build, I would recommend the kit as all the components are already matched to the blank. The only things you may want to change or add would be cosmetic.

My choice of bait style begins with the water's surface. If it's calm, I go with something that doesn't make much commotion. The more surface turbulence, the more I want the lure to disturb it. The only bait I'll throw under any condition is a buzzbait, but if it's really choppy, I'll go with a double blade.

I like round bend hooks for most baits with lipless cranks being the exception. They get Triple Grips. Check sites that offer bulk quantities. Purchasing individual packs can get pricey when replacing a lot of hooks. You may also want to consider replacing the split rings while you're at it.

It also depends on what size tube. Although creeks tend to be shallow, they can also have a lot of current. You want a weight heavy enough to get the tube down and keep it from tumbling down current.

Berkley Havoc Bottom Hopper is a stand out (and up)

I've used everything from Rapalas to 12in. worms, but when it comes to soft plastics, I prefer a bait with no salt as it tends to stay off the bottom longer. Havoc has a diverse line of no salt baits.

southernson1989 Try outrunning a moccasin when you're fishing from a float tube! You're looking at the dang thing the whole time you're attempting to get away from it. The only time I've ever seen a man walk on water was when I told a buddy:" look out for that snake" as he was getting into my boat. I swear he took at least four steps before he realized what he was doing.

Lightning is the only weather that will turn me around once I'm headed out. If I'm on the water I'll get off, or at least dock the boat and wait it out in the car. Wind has dampened a few outings in recent memory (remember, I'm an old fart so memory is a passing thing), but it never kept me from at least giving it a shot.

A-Jay, which type of pegging do you use, bobber stops or pegging strips?

Thanks. I'll need to pick up some heavier tungsten weights. I have up to 1oz. in brass, but between overall size and the feeling that they would draw unwanted attention, I'll pass on using them.

Based solely on your initial criteria, I'd go with the High Mod series blank as long as the cost factor is within your budget. it's right in the middle on both weight and line ratings.It's also the only Med. power one you listed. The Mag Taper blank is beefier and is likely perceived as having more backbone, but I'm not sure where it lies as far as power.

I know the basic rigging of the rig, I'm just not sure how to work it in thick, non-emergent weeds. Do you cast, let it settle in the weeds and then shake it to work it down? When casting to matted weeds, do you lob cast so the rig literally punches it's way through? I would love to get a bait down to the base of the weeds and not just present one on top of them.

That is the advantage of using a stronger main line, the leader will break before it does. The other advantage is line visibility. A leader added to braid, whether fluorocarbon, mono, or copolymer, is less visible than the braid. As far as your breakage issue with braid; Where is the line breaking? One reason I use braid is so I DON'T loose baits. Braid does frey and in the lower lb. tests that can be a big concern.

I would think the 25 would be better suited to that rod, but then again I don't think it's available in 6.2

Two things I would attempt if looking for more bites; Check out some deep cover and look for a spot having more than just pads. It's doubtful that all the bass would be in the pads and deep would be the first thing I'd check out. The addition of another form of weeds, or other cover in addition to the pads could be the honey spot. Awesome pic. I just may steal it for my wallpaper.

The first reel I ever paid for was a Mitchell 300. Prior to that, I used my dad's hand me down. It failed me the first time I ever caught a smallie and I promised I'd only buy quality gear from then on. I just recently got back into using a spinning set-up, and although I won't spend near as much as I do on a BC, quality is still upper most in what I decide to buy.

I've always backed off the drag on my reels at the end of the day, even if I plan on fishing the next day. I reset them the next time out, likely a lot looser than most, but then I drop my thumb on the spool when setting the hook, or if I feel I need to when fighting a fish.

What brand/ size hooks do you use when T-rigging a 3.5 in. tube? A 3/0 wide gap Gammy works fine for my 4in. tubes, but is too long for both the 3.5 & 3.75in. ones as the hook's bend extends past the body.

Welcome to the site and sorry to hear about your loss. You can check out our fishing flea market in the forums drop down, guys are always listing gear to sell or trade and you can also put up a request for particular items. Good luck and get out there and make us northerners wish we lived next door.

An Arkie style jig Is what I prefer when fishing timber and the type rattle you described could have a barb on the upside toward the hook bend. It's purpose is to keep the trailer from slipping down to the bend, but they don't leave much room between that barb and where the rattle chamber attaches.

Likely a buck-tail jig tipped with a minnow. It'll likely happen while walleye fishing. When actually targeting bass, a tube jig.