papajoe222

If it isn't contacting cover or the bottom, a stop and go retrieve can work, especially when working it in deeper water.

You'll likely hear different from others, but I switch out the front treble with a Mustad 36246R Ultra Point ™Triple Grip 2X Short-Shank Hook. I was using a similar style from Eagle Claw prior to discovering these. I like the short shank and the way the hook point bends backtoward the shank. The combination makes it a little more difficult for the fish to throw the bait and if it means only boating one more fish an outing, it gets the nod from me.

I find myself throwing more hard baits in the fall than during the summer or spring. Although I do use some plastics as well, they're ones I can work quickly. My most productive hard baits have been a single bladed, short arm spinnerbait that I can burn over the tops of weeds and then let helicopter down the edges. Shallow cranks and either a deep crank I can use to dig up the bottom, or a lipless crank stroked out of sandgrass or other weeds. Do you find hardbaits to be more productive in the fall than soft plastics?

I use a similar technique in the fall, but my upward swing is more like setting a hook and sometimes that's exactly what I end up doing. I rearely feel the fish take it on the drop and the only way I even know one is there is either when the line moves off to the side, or I go to jerk it up again. There have been occasions when I thought I was snagged only to have the rod start dancing after a few seconds. A RedEye has more action on the fall than most lipless cranks and I believe it works best when it's falling. 6in. or 6ft. that wiggle it gives off when falling is it's uniqueness.

Sometimes I'll break out that CrazyCrawler when everyone else is throwing a buzzbait. It's something the fish havent seen or heard in a while. I don't even remember how to work a Lucky 13, it's been so long.

My favorite topwater. I'll add a couple of observations. First, though most don't consider a Spook as a target bait, it is an awesome producer when used as such. Just remember to cast past your target whenever possible and work the bait up to it. At that point, you can either pause it or speed it up. If your target is shoreline cover, pause the bait after it lands and only give it one or two twitches with a long pause before continuing your retrieve. I can't work a Spook very fast, but I've found that a slower retrieve produces more results in moving water than a faster one does. That includes under windy conditions when most anglers shy away from using one.

Most of the gear and lures I use most often are newer. One exception are my Daiwa Sols and my Browning Boron Matrix rods. I haven't been able to come up with a combo that I feel as comfortable using and have confidence in, although I have come close with my newest Lews.

It isn't in my tackle box anymore, but I bought an Original Rapala back in 1964 that was a walleye killer. I retired it along with one I'd purchased for my dad when he passed in '67. In my tackle box, I have a Lucky13 and a Crazy Crawler that were bought around the same time. The oldest lure I use regularly is a MudBug although I do have a big Lazy Ike that sees occasional trolling use.

Keep it simple stupid! These are quickly becoming my 'words to fish by'. I have a tendency to over think things, often before I even get on the water. That presumptuous thinking has been costing me productive fishIng time. Do you find yourself giving too much thought into your on water approach, or do you start out with a simple approach and refine it as you go?

Matching hook size to the thickness of the plastic is the most difficult part of fishing soft plastics as hook style is more of a personal preference. I'd give all three styles a try before making a decision. Notice I said thickness and not size. You want enough gap left once the plastic is compressed against the hook's shank to grab during the hook set. Keep in mind the rod and line you'll be using as the thicker the hooks wire, the stiffer the rod, or line needs to be to drive the hook point home.

I didn't catch your intro, so let me start out by saying welcome. I admire the way you've challenged yourself. Unlike yourself, when I started out all that was available in the way of information were publications and often times that information was unreliable. Although I still love to read a few publications, the information they contain pales in comparison to what is available via the internet. Bassmaster and FishingFacts are two magazines that I still subscribe to. The first is offered as part of my BASS membership and the second is a multi-species publication that is packed with information. Although your learning curve is well advanced, your experience needs to to rise to drive home those lessons. To truly gain confidence in a bait or presentation, may I suggest, as with a crankbait, only using it on a few outings. Good luck and don't forget to jump in and post now and then.

Are you sure that isn't a Muskie bait? That's the rod I'd be using. Dang you guys throw some big baits. Gets me to thinking about those 8in. swim baits I only break out for Muskie. Seriously, if you or a buddy have a rod used for Jakes and Depth Raiders, I'd pair it with the reel you mentioned. Depending on the composite it may not be as sensitive, but I've caught numerous big bass fishing those baits for Muskie and sensitivity wasn't an issue. .

In 30+ years of fishing Spooks, I can honestly say I never fished on using a spinning rod. I'm clueless, but if I may offer up a couple of suggestions? Attach an oval split ring to the line tie, it will make walking much easier to achieve and you won't need to concern yourself with your line slipping into the opening of a regular split ring. Vary the cadence of your retrieve. I will do that three or four times during one cast, but I'm always concentrating so I know what I was doing when a fish hit. Don't hesitate to pause the bait. The best results happen when you cast past a target, work the bait up to it and pause it. Lastly, don't set the hook when a fish blows up on your bait. Wait until you either feel the weight of the fish or your bait disappears from view. If she totally missed it, let it sit for awhile and then only move it a short distance.

That's what I call 'Taco Bell thinking'. Either that or desperation. More than likely they'd use that presentation before. Did anyone else come close to their total, or we're most in the same boat as you? (Figuratively)

My sentiments exactly. Both July and August have been a nightmare this year. I know the unstable weather patterns have a lot to do with it, but even on my home waters I've really had to work at putting up some decent numbers. Your situation is not uncommon for this time of year as forage numbers are at their peak. I'm surprised that you didn't attempt any subsurface presentations. When they're busting shad on Table Rock, I don't even bother with surface baits, or cranks. I'll tie on a 1/2oz. White jig with a smoke Kalin's grub. It falls, unmolested through the surface activity, down to the bigger fish below that seem more willing.

I don't believe it. I just received the Sol I ordered off e-bay yesterday. This thing is brand spanking new! It must have been a display that the guy lost the box and papers for. For some reason he described it as a spinning reel, but the pic showed a baitcaster. I contacted him and when he assured me it was a baitcaster, I placed an opening bid on it three days before it ended, never dreaming I'd win it. Mama wasn't too happy that I added another Sol to my collection, but I took her out for a boat ride today and i don't think I'll have to worry about her objecting to me spending money on 'fishing gear you don't need' anymore.

Any container you use that is over 84in. (length + girth) gets to be a little pricey. Sadly, any one piece rod over 7ft. is going to put you over that limit. The most inexpensive carrier is USPS and you can save some $ by printing out your own postage. I've shipped 6'6" rods for as little as $11.75 all the way up to $30 depending on how much I insured them for, but have never shipped a one piece over 7ft. for under $21. BTW, Forget UPS. It's legal rape if you do and even with petroleum jelly, it hurts.

I'll echo a couple of things mentioned that I beleive are the most important. First if you haven't caught anything over 1.5lb. and you're consistantly catching fish, you need to change locations. That dosen't mean you need to make a dramatic change of location, a change in depth or relation to deeper water may be all that's needed. I'd stick with soft plastics and the suggestion of switching to a bigger grub is a good one, but seeing as you asked for another confidence bait, a stick worm (Senko) or a Fluke type would be my recommendation. If gut hooking is a concern when learning to use them, try using a circle hook. It's next to impossible to gut hook a fish with one, but you need to remember not to set the hook with your rod, just reel and keep your rod tip elevated.

A black/blue jig with a junebug trailer is a killer for me when flippin' I'm color blind and purple looks blue to me. That's how I started using junebug colored plastics and I haven't had reason to switch since I found out!

The reason I ask is that a neighbor returned early today from a guided trip to a lake that I fish occasionally. It was a drop-dead beautiful day and I didn't expect his return until later in the evening. Anyway, I asked why his early return as he is elderly and his wife isn't in the best of health. He replied that he got ticked off when his guide pulled up to the first spot of the day and after rigging him up and a short tutorial on the spot and technique, picked up a rod and began fishing from the back of the boat. He politely told the quide, he said, that he wasn't paying for the guide to fish and for him to retun him to the launch. Words were exchanged (I have no idea what was said), tempers flared and my neighbor refused to pay for services as, in his words: " I didn't get any service, all I got was someone that wanted to fish and rip me off for $275." I attempted to tell him that this practice is very commonplace when attempting to find not only active fish, but a presentation that works. His reply was that I'd been snowballed on more than one occasion by that BS and no way was he buying into it. He uses a charter guide on a regular basis, but has never used one for bass fishing. Your thoughts.

If it's a good piece of cover, I keep it. You never know when it will come in handy.

Culprit Ribbon Tail consistant'y produces at night for me, but a Spook catches more big fish at night.

Well, my getting a new Daiwa Sol II is out of the question, at least until my birthday rolls around. I picked up a used Sol for a song and have enough funds left for a fairly nice rod. I really don't know what it is about these reels, but my boat's deck is going to look awesome with three combos on the port side all with that purty gold reel on 'em.

Either a Culprit ribbon tail or a NetBait Thumper and I never peg the sinker.

I let the fish tell me by how they are reacting or not reacting to the presentations I start with. If I'm getting little, or no love on the power/reaction baits, I'll switch to something like a smaller spinnerbait with blades that allow me to work it slower or a silent crank that can cover the same part of the water column that the one with rattles that I started with. I'll save the finess stuff for when I've eliminated bigger/ faster moving soft plastic presentations. Generally, as you mentioned earlier, those are the days with bright skies, or when the water is calm and clear. I'll still start with the 'non subtle' presentations as most of them are geared toward active fish and although the subtle stuff will catch active fish, they generally don't cover water as quickly and periods of positive fish activity don't last for long periods. For me, it's easier to slow down than speed up.