papajoe222

So a neighbor wants me to build him a rod and wants it as light as possible. I gave him a choice of components, but he insists on not only standard size guides, but double foot ones, despite my arguments for using micros or single footed guides. Are there any lightweight, double footed guides on the market? I haven't found any that mention weight reduction in their description other than titanium.. Also, how much weight is actually saved when it comes to one style vs. another? Between the difference in weight of the guides themselves and the extra thread and epoxy, I wouldn't think it would be over an ounce, would it?

You don't need to bounce a crankbait off the bottom or cover, or tick the weeds with it. The quick change in speed and/or direction is what triggers most strikes, which can be accomplished (though not as productively) through the use of the reel and rod tip. This is a technique I often use on suspended fish, but I don't see why using a bait that runs shallower than the depth of the muck bottom you describe in that fashion wouldn't produce. The advantage over a lipless crank is the fact that they float and will often times back out of a snag if given slack line and once the bait reaches it's running depth, you can experiment with different retrieve speeds while maintaining depth.

AWESOME, they look exactly like the old Riverside ones right down to the claws and flaps on the side. If they're anywhere near as bouyant, I'll be stocking up. Thanks

WalMart used to sell these in their bargin bins, but I haven't seen them Ina couple of seasons and I'm down to my last pack. They're basically a big, ringed tube with appendages and they've been a reliable big fish producer both fished by themselves and as a trailer when flipping/pitching jigs and I'm looking for a big profile with a slower fall rate. Does anyone know if this company is still in existence, or of a distributor? The closest bait I've found are BigBite Craw Tubes, but they're a little shorter and thinner

Lunkers Love Nightcrawlers is loaded with valuable information about bass migration movements and their use of structure. A great learning tool for anyone interested in fishing off shore structure. The information pertaining to use and care of Nightcrawlers is just a bonus. If you search 'recommended reading'' you'll find more suggestions in a similar thread. ( sorry, I don't know how to add a link to it)

For smallies, I rarely use a skirted jig. Not that I fish for them a lot as the lakes I frequent are void of them, but when I do it's a hair jig and minnow imitation plastic trailer, or a bare jig with some sort of minnow imitating plastic. I prefer a tube for imitating a crawfish, dragged ever so slowly along the bottom.

You're going to have to sacrifice casting distance if you want to stick with a jig as the heavy one you mentioned will burry itself in the weeds/muck. If you want to go with a jig and not a T-rig, I'd suggest a light shakey head and a floating straight tailed drop shot worm. The combination of a light jig head and worm won't burry into the weeds, it'll either rest on top or slightly into the weeds depending on the type and thickness of them. You can use either hop/rip/ or shake presentation for the tops of the weeds. If you want a bottom presentation, you'll need either a swim jig with the line tie at the nose, or a T-rig.

I do a roll cast. It's kind of like turning a door knob counter clockwise, of course that's also the way I cast forehand, so it just seemed the easiest for me.

Many of the natural lakes I fish are under 1000 acres, a few are under 100. The majority of them also have no shad populations. The lakes with a healthy population of milfoil or coontail are the best producers as both the baitfish and the bass relate to the weeds. Those that only have sparce cover are tough to fish as the bass and baitfish move around a lot. The lakes with plenty of weeds do have some structure, but lack other forms of cover. Irregularities in the weed beds along with the edges where the weeds stop growing are the best producers (that includes the top edge whether or not the weeds grow to the surface). Any place where the weeds abruptly stop growing is an indication of structure, in this case, a change in bottom composition and those areas are spots to key on no matter what season, but especially during the summer. If nothing else, envision the cuts, turns and points in the weeds the same as those of a shoreline and you'll locate a good majority of the shallow fish. If the lake has a depth of 30ft. at the deepest, there are likely other forms of structure and I would look for quick depth changes or rises even if they're only a few feet. Any of those that continue toward the shallows can be producers both during the summer and winter as the deeper holding fish in the summer will use them when accessing the shallows and the majority of fish will migrate to them in the winter.

I do better in the spring, when water temps are rising than in the fall in that temp. range. That's most likely do to the fact that the fish are becomming more active as the water's temp. rises. In the fall, with dropping temps. they're movement is away from the shallows and a buzzbait isn't known for calling fish up from deep water. Although nothing beats topwater when it comes to exciting fishing, there are a number of different presentations that are more suited to that temp. range (spring or fall).

I have two of them. One is a 6'6" Med and the other is the same length in a MH. They're light and sensitive although I do own IM7 rods that are, IMO, more sensitive. I would rate it higher on the scale than, say a BPS Extreme. It's a heck of a lot better looking than most with the butt wrap and the metalic thread used on the guide wraps and the premium cork.. They quit making them for whatever reason about eight years ago. Too bad, because at the time they were introduced they out performed rods that sold for twice their price. If they were to come out with them in a split grip with micro guides, I'd replace my two favorites with them. That's how much I like them.

In a word, persistance. Ever have one of those days when you just can't figure them out, or do you just give up and attribute it to some factor that's out of your control? This past season really tested my persistant approach as there were very few 'easy' days on the water. It would often take me the better part of my fishing time eliminating different scenarios before I came up with the right combination. Even then, results weren't anything to really get the adrenalin pumping. I'll admit that sometimes it was just staying out there long enough for conditions to change, but I have to believe persistance plalys a large part even in that. (My wife says that's being hard headed, but who listens to their wife?)

A helpful hint, if you don't mind. As you remove the parts from the reel, lay them out from left to right on a clean surface (I like using a gift box cover). Reverse the order when reassembling. This will help you when it comes to location of the smaller parts like washers and screws. Be careful when removing springs and clips. If they fly off, they're a bugger to find.

Depend if I'm fishing vertically or not. I like a floating worm if I am, as it stands out off the main line better. If not, I'm using a hand poured 4in. fry style worm that has a lot of salt in it. If I'm using a Bubba Shot (heavy weight and bigger plastic) I go for a Strike King Coffee Tube with the tail dipped in JJ's.

I asked the same question a while back an did a little research on it. Bottom line is; If you like the newer features, you will likely be pleased with this reel. For me, there just aren't enough first hand reviews to pluck down $200+ on a reel, even if it is a Daiwa with the Sol moniker

For me, it's all about technique and that almost always translates into something different than what the majority of guys are using. On my home waters spinnerbaits, senkos, and jigs are the baits of choice. I opt for a swim jig, Fluke and creature baits. On another lake I frequent, cranks and worms are the norm. I'm tossing swimbaits and jigs. I'm targeting the same areas with similar style presentations, but I'm using baits that are different. If I haven't a clue what the locals are using, a Senko or Fluke are where I start.

I throw a 1/2oz. more often than not, for a couple of reasons. Being a little heavier, it's easier to cast, both for distance and accuracy. They also don't roll on their side as easily if I upsize the blades. If I want to keep it high in the water column, I'll either change to a larger main blade or add a bulky plastic trailer like a Kalin's Lunker Grub. When I try that with a 3/8, it wants to roll and I have to slow down my retrieve. To me, that's counter productive. The majority of the time I'm fising a spinnerbait in 15ft. of water or less, so there are very few situations where I'd need to go heavier.

After you make a cast, when does the thumb bar lock in the up position? If it stays locked in the up position, but you're able to retrieve line it sounds like a part may be missing. If the reel locks up completely a part may have been replaced incorrectly. If you can get a schematic, check it against your pics. Otherwise I'd either take it to, or send it to a repair shop.

Power loading is defined as using the boat's engine to load the boat on to the trailer and unless the use of outboards is prohibited or doing so is prohibited on your waters, no you can't get fined. The Coast Guard only recommends not doing so as a saftey precaution.

60ft. 6in.

Awesome. Is that a skin mount, or a replica?

A lot depends on the way your motors are mounted. If your outboard is clamped on the transom rather than bolted, there is usually a way to run a lock through the clamps. If it's bolted on, it's likely too heavy for someone to walk off with. Just add a prop lock. As for the TM, if it's a cable steer bow mount, unplug it and loosen the clamp that holds it to the mounting bracket (Motor Guides). It will swing open like a gate and you can remove just the motor. Some electric and remote steered units have a quick disconnect plate where it mounts to the bracket. For clamp on motors, I'd say just unclamp it and disconnect the power. You can set it inside your garage or even a closet. Most depth finders have quick disconnect mounts and cables. Don't forget to secure your spare tire as they are and easy target also. I store my boat at a remote lot over the winter, so I leave nothing on it that can be removed easily and I run a cable thru both wheels.

X2. In 30+years of boating, I can count on my hands how many times I've power loaded my boat. Most Coast Guard boating saftey courses recommend NOT power loading, but it is the most often used technique. I suggest that every boater should not only know how to trailer his boat using a cast off line, but also how to launch with it. Im not saying one should never power load, just know how to do it manualy.

Two of the most common mistakes anglers new to baitcasters make when it comes to accuracy are making long casts (results in loss of accuracy to the left and right) and not aiming past your target and thumbing the spool (falling short of your target). I can't emphasize how important the latter is, not only to accuracy, but also to a softer entry into the water. Your rod choice can make a big difference also. Long rods are great for long casts, but unless your pitching you will be more accurate with a shorter rod.

It depends on which search mode I'm in. If I start shallow and work my way deep looking for active fish, it's topwaters, spinnerbaits, cranks. Deep to shallow, it's cranks or a C-Rig, spinnerbaits and jigs. About the only time I'll change up is if conditions haven't changed since my last outing, or I'm marking fish or baitfish schools. Cold front conditions are a whole different scenario.