papajoe222

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I'll disagree with Mike L on one thing and that's the type of cover. In vegetation, a T-rigged soft plastic bait will become a headache in short order. When the sinker and bait become separated, the weeds will find their way between them and wreck not only your cast, but you patience as well. The only option is to either peg the sinker or go to a jig and pegging the sinker eliminates the benefit a true T-rig has over a jig, the ability of the fish to take your offering without feeling the weight. If your definition of Texas rigging only refers to how the bait is hooked, I don't see where it makes much difference except in the angler's confidence in one over the other.

I don't use this technique, but a 5" tube like NetBait has, on a pegged punching weight sounds like it'd fit the bill for you. The profile is ideal for following a big weight through a mat of vegetation and it imitates both crawfish and shad. Although most of the tube's built in action will be lost, it's still something the fish don't often see.

I know where you're coming from. I fished 'Traps with a 6'6" MH rod and 12lb mono and could never rip them from the weeds. Occasionally I could tick the tops of the weeds and luck into a few, but it wasn't until I switched to braid that I really got the knack of ripping the bait to clear the weeds and that's when this became a top producer for me.

I go with a brown, polarized lens on my Rx glasses. They offer plenty in the way of shading vs. amber, but are a good option for overcast days. Grey lenses are okay, but under all but sunny conditions they are a little on the overkill side. I also have difficulty reading my electronics with grey lenses, but that may be because I'm color blind.

With the majority of baits I use, I can tell when they pick up a weed or some moss. A quick rip of the rod tip will normally clear all but the most clinging of them. The reason I want to clear the bait of weeds is that the action of the bait is altered and if I can feel the difference, the bait isn't running true. To me and likely to the fish, a 'shad' zipping by with a weed trailing along looks out of place and unnatural. With plastic worms, etc. it's much more difficult. Not only to detect the fact that I've picked up a weed, but to clear it. In those cases I don't feel a strand of weed clinging to my worm makes a lot of difference to the fish as I'm fishing in the weeds for a reason. The fish, hopefully, are focusing on my bait not the weeds around it, or clinging to it. I have caught bass with a strand of weed in their mouth along with my worm or tube, but I guarantee you I've caught a bunch more that didn't.

One piece of advice, especially if you stand while using the motor. Always know what setting the motor is on and what direction it's pointed before you step on the switch. This isn't much of a concern if you're constantly on and off the switch, but if it's off for a while, it's easy to forget and the next thing you know the boat is heading left and you're heading right.

I like the Terminator jigs for both their trailer keeper and the weed guard. I just wish they'd make them with an arkie style head with a horizontal line tie. That style jig, IMO, is the best for fishing downed timber.

I really don't think having a plastic bait outside the package for any length of time is going to decrease it's ability to catch fish, unless of course, it has some kind of scent that may evaporate. Soft plastics are the only lures I leave tied on my rods at the end of the day and only if I've retied recently. Cranks and most other hard baits with trebles have a tendency getting caught on carpeting, clothing and worst of all hands when handling prerigged rods. It takes me less than a minute to tie on a bait, set the cast control and drag on my reel and make that first cast. It can take a lot longer for me to untangle a bait and is virtually painless.

I'm glad I read before I responded because I would have suggested the same hookset used for most single hook baits. The only time I sweep set for that is when C-rigging which is the exact set BH described. I'll have to give it a shot if I start missing fish.

From the looks of things, my list was on the skinny side. I only planned on bringing five rods to fish with along with a half dozen 3700 series boxes and a bag with terminal stuff. Might increase the gear and maybe add a combo to the mix now. The only thing I know for sure I won't be bringing is my spinning gear. My motto for this trip is: Go big, or go home empty handed. If I can't cast it with my Daiwas, it doesn't get packed.

I don't have any custom baits, so I don't have any suggestions on that topic. Hart, Stanley and Terminator titanium get my custom treatments or I'll fish them straight from the pkg.

I refer to the following oxymoron when it comes to choosing a weight; Use the lightest weight you can, but heavy enough to maintain contact with the bait. The lightest I use is 3/16 and the heaviest for T-rig is 3/8. If conditions call for something heavier, I switch to a C-rig or a jig.

In other words, bring everything. Works for me

When it comes to jig size, I have a starting point in mind, say for swimming or maybe flipping. That will normally be 1/2 for pitching/flipping, 3/4 for football, and (depending on depth) 1/8-3/8 for shakey heads. I can adjust the fall rate somewhat by the trailer I use, but if I feel I really need to increase or decrease the rate, I'll also adjust by changing the jig size. A heavier jig is easier to maintain contact/feel with, but sometimes isn't an option. When first starting out, I'd suggest sticking with one weight until you can tell what your jig is doing or what type of cover or bottom composition you're bringing it through. You'll also get a feel for how fast or slow it falls. Often, determining a jig bite boils down to the jig just feeling different or it stops falling before it should.

I'm in the same boat (and cabin) as you when it comes to this lake. I know I'll be bringing plenty of tubes along with some mid-depth running cranks, spinnerbaits with chartruse in the skirt and a selection of topwaters in some bright colors. As far as other soft plastics and techniques, I'm clueless. I hope you and Mike have it figured out by Wed. when I get there.

That looks like Lake Marie of the chain. I know about Shabbona and have fished it numerous times, but Spring is another I haven't heard much about. Loon is another sleeper around the Chain.

Here's the deal. I ran into a fellow club member on the water yesterday and during our discussion he started raving about the muskie fishing at Evergreen, here in Illinois. He is the second person that has mentioned this fishery's muskie fishing to me. So my question is: Why haven't I heard of this lake before?? I've been going to Webster and a number of lakes in Wisconsin in search of muskie, but now I'm anxious to give this lake a shot. Any information you guys can pass along about anything from where to launch to where, in the area, to stay would be great. Thanks

The one thing I haven't seen mentioned about hammerd blades is the added lift. A hammered willow blade can be retrieved slower than a smooth finished one while maintaining the same depth. If you think of the dimples on a golf ball, those touting longer distance have dimples with beveled edges. Those dimples use the increased air flow to keep the ball aloft longer. If you're into waking a spinnerbait in the summer, a tandem, hammered willow blade bait can be retrieved slower. The same goes for Buzzbaits. Those with holes in the fins can be retrieved slower and still stay on top. Oh no, I let another pro tip slip. Now some guys are going to start drilling holes in their perfectly good buzzbait blades (the same thing applies to adding a couple of holes in your willow and Colorado blades, but don't tell anyone I said so).

Silly me. For some reason, I thought the flow was FROM Wilson TO Wheeler. I knew something didn't add up in my head. Of course when we're talking my head............................Never mind. Let's just chalk it up to old age.

I just checked out Google Earth and found both the dam and the resort. It's a great location, not only for spring, but I imagine the area below the dam is a good summer spot also. Between the big island and the tower islands, fish holding structure is at a premium. Add to that the two big feeder creeks in close proximity and I can see why this is a favorite destination. Getting really pumped about heading down for the trip. Thanks for the info.

As an old man with a bum shoulder, the most challenging for me is not a type of lure, but a technique. Pitching is one that has kept me from competion since the late 90's. That makes jigs my most challenging and frustrating because it's also my most productive. Drop shotting is right up there because I have no confidence in it and deep cranking rates on par as pitching a jig as it's a killer on the shoulder. All the others, I'd rate a 2 or 3 with top water being the only 1 on my list.

All great suggestions, but two I haven't seen mentioned are LazyIke/Flatfish style lures and minnow style baits like Bomber LongA's and Jointed Rapalas. Both are great options for trolling or casting.

So, I'm heading out for this year's road trip and have no clue as to the spawning habits of smallmouth. I'm thinking that water temps on the lower end of Wilson will be in the upper 50's or low 60's, but what is the prefered water temp. for them to spawn? The other thing I was wondering is if a smallie's pre and post spawn movements mirror those of their cousin? If you haven't come to the conclusion that I'm clueless on this topic, I can put you in touch with my brother. He thinks I should know everything there is to know about bass fishing...... Like anybody could.

Although I don't own one, I have fished with a Smoke and was impressed. It's lighter and cheaper (cost) than my Daiwa Sols, but performed well with lighter baits.