Big Hands

I doubt there's a universally correct answer. As you can see, the range of what works for others can be all over the place. Next time you look into a mirror, have an honest chat with the Bait Monkey ? Easier said than done for many of us, but I generally suggest that you figure out what works best for YOU.

16 rod/reel combos are on the roster and available to suit up for game day. 6 @ Spinning combos - Finesse 2 @ BFS-ish combos 3 @ Crankbait combos 1 @ Swimbait combo 3 @ Bottom Contact combos Usually 4 make the trip to the lake, but could actually be anywhere from 3 to 6. I always have at least one spinning rod and one casting rod, and the rest could be either or. Sometimes there will be a redundancy or two. If someone else will be in the boat with me, I try to limit us to 3 or 4 rods each. The rest of my gear most days will consist of one tackle bag and a net.

Just had an excellent conversation with Dan. Thanks for the suggestion.

Maybe it's genius after all?

'Twas a dark and dreary night. . .

The Toro Beasts apparently have some great qualities that are appreciated. That said the 60 size is WAY more than I'd need, quite the Beast weight wise as well and I'm not ready for that type of commitment, LOL. It looks like the 50 size is discontinued and difficult to find spec's for. With the cost of high quality line these days, I am very hesitant to employ a reel that requires way more line than I'll ever need and I see no reason to have backing just to take up unneeded space. The 40 size is actually closer to the line capacity I feel I need and weighs 9.6 ounces. I guess the questions I would have to ask myself are, 1) is it worth spending $90 more TO ME (generally being a Tatula or Curado type of angler) than the Curado 300K and 2) is the Tranx 300A worth spending $70 than the cost of the Curado 300K? If I am being honest, probably not worth it . . . . TO ME . . . . given that this portion of my fishing isn't likely to occupy more than 10% to 20% of my fishing time (probably closer to 10%) . . . . . unless the chunky hawgs just can't resist me ? ---------------------------------------- Currently, I am leaning toward the Curado 300HGK or 300K for the rod I have, and then adding a more parabolic, possibly slightly lower powered rod with whichever Curado 300 ratio that I don't have. The Tranx 300A is built sturdier than the Curado 300K, but I'm not sure I need that given the frequency of use I am anticipating and some self-induced budgetary constraints. It seems that a fast taper rod may work best for driving home a single hook and then manhandling the fish to net, whereas the more forgiving rod may have a better chance to keep fish pinned to a treble hook bait. And if the rod is soft enough to keep a treble hooked fish pinned, it may not be well suited to driving a single hook of a fully engulfed soft bait home. I think I will try one of the Curado 300 models on my current fast taper rod and see how I feel about it as a hybrid using all types of baits before moving forward with a second rig.

I'm glad your father was able to make it into a workable gig. I'd like to hear whether or not he would advise people to get into the field considering the current state of affairs? In my 13 years of teaching experience, I get paid for the days I actually work (but not the nights) and five days PTO (no vacation) along with the same holidays others get paid for. I can have the checks spread out over 12 months so the income is steady, but I don't work for 8 (or 10 in my case) and get paid for 12. And, for the requirements you must meet, it rarely fits the definition of financially lucrative. If you can stretch your pay out and make it work, the time not worked can serve to restore your soul in a profession that is steadily losing the appeal it previously had. The numbers of experienced and newly minted teachers leaving the field for other lines of work seems to back that up. There isn't really a so-called teacher shortage, but there is a shortage of teaching jobs that aren't underpaid and/or don't have a soul sucking toxic environment. And I have already spent several hours working (and several more to go) during my current two week unpaid "Holiday Break". Maybe I'm simply doing it wrong. Just call me Mr. Sunshine

It may very well make the outboard more weed-resistant, until it doesn't, LOL.

The Scorpion MD 300XG has been on my radar. It has a 40" ipt, and if I have trouble with it I will have to have it sent to Japan instead of sending it 75 miles away to Shimano USA. The weight is around what other choices are and the price is not terrible. There's a lot to like about the Scorpion MD and I have considered that the long handle option could help to slow down the speed of the retrieve just because it takes longer to go around the larger circumference. The longer handle would also provide more leverage. ------------------------------------------------------- This is the range of baits I intend to throw with a 10" Magdraft being at the extreme and maybe just scaling back to the 8" Magdraft and living with that. Mostly 2 to 4 oz baits in the sweet spot, but could go up to 5 or six. In addition to the bigger swimbait rod I recently acquired (which this thread is about), I already have a couple setups rated for up to 3 ounces for that range. The realization that I may be searching for a Unicorn has occurred to me (and then some) and I will: 1) have to choose my poison and live with it 2) switch to a different reel if I find the retrieve speed not to my liking 3) consider a second rod with a more moderate action for treble hook baits, and reel to compliment what I have. Maybe one 300 size reel with a slower retrieve and another 300 size reel with a faster retrieve. I could then mix and match as I feel the need to. Just trying to perform my due diligence before throwing down and seeing if I can possibly get by with an all-around setup, straddling the fence and not really finding it good for anything in particular or just one thing. If I truly feel the need more than a two rod solution to throw and fish both single hook baits and treble hook baits in this weight range, I may end up just selling my big swimbait gear altogether and moving on from those aspirations. I know there are anglers with massive swimbait rod/reel collections and I like that there are those that can put together very specialized rigs for each new bait that comes along. But having been a little involved on and off with big swimbaits for close to three decades, I also know that the flavor of the month regularly changes as bass seemingly become accustomed to various baits, and I don't see myself going any further down the that rabbit hole of trying to be that specialized. Bait Monkey, don't think for a second that I don't see your sneaky insidious self. Mostly when I look into the mirror.

I thought it might be fun to have a centralized place to celebrate some of those fishing boat modifications or "repair" horror with pics that tell the story. Things that make us go "Huh?", "Wow", "What the heck were they thinkin?" kinda pics. Just when I thought maybe I had seen the pinnacle of 'jankyness' . . . . I present my most recent find as inspiration to kickoff this thread as this was too good not to share. I am hoping you all have some Jankytown awesomeness to share to. Let's see what you've got!

I have had a feeling that the Tranx 300 was going to be on the short list. Interesting that the Defier Armillo is mentioned by both of you. My relationship with heavy Fluorocarbon on casting reels definitely needs to be addressed. This is precisely the dilemma I am trying to reconcile. Where do I want to have the disadvantage? During the presentation or the fight? Maybe I can't be too heartbroken about bites I never get, but to have multiple big fish I have hooked come and shake the bait loose because I can't control them would definitely be heartbreaking. Thanks for the thoughtful responses.

Disclaimer: If details are not your thing, I understand. I realize brevity is not an attribute I possess. The TL/DR version is I am looking for a reel for swimbaits mostly ranging in size from about 2 oz to 4 oz, but may exceed that a bit in either direction. I suspect that a reel that does everything perfectly does not exist and that there will be compromises. I am trying to figure out how to deal with those and which are the most important to consider. So much for brevity, it's the best I can do. And besides, it's the hard water silly season, so hopefully you have a few minutes to chew the fat. -------------------------------------------- Context: First of all, for me, the term "swimbait" is referring to bigger swimbaits like anything from 1 oz to infinity (as it relates to bass fishing). I know there are "swimbaits that are 3" long and weigh 1/4 oz, and those are best used with a completely different type of rod and reel and are what I would categorize as "small swimbaits" that range up to an ounce or two. So, for the purposes of this thread, rightly or wrongly, I am referring to baits that generally fall in the 1 oz to 5 oz category (with the sweet spot being 1.5 oz to 3.5 oz). FOR ME and the purposes of this discussion, a 6 oz swimbait falls into the lower range of the "big swimbait" category. I fully expect that there isn't likely to be universal agreement about the what best attributes are for a swimbait reel. And, much to Bait Monkey's sheer delight, there are niches within the niche, and that is where my dilemma originates. I have a bunch of swimbaits in this category, but have not had a proper setup capable of throwing them since I got rid of my Phenix PSW869H Deck hand rod and Tranx 400. It would handle baits up into the large swimbait realm. It was a fine rod and reel setup, but it was not lightweight or close to it in a general sense and it was not fun to use for long stretches of time. It would make for a fine inshore rig for yellowtail or tuna we get in this area, but it was a beast for me for swimbait fishing. And, my next most expensive rig only cost 2/3 of what that did, and my main interest is not this type fishing at this time. ------------------------------------------ Fast forward to today, and I now have a Daiwa Kage 8'6' R/H rated rod (you'll find almost nothing about this rod online and although Daiwa still has a few in stock, it has been discontinued). I guess it's one of those rods that if you know, you know, but most likely you had no idea it even existed. But I think other rods like it exist and this is more about the reel at this point. After trying it out yesterday, I really like it. It casts the swimbaits I tried further than I actually expected it to, and I liked what action I could impart to them. My intent is to use 17-20 lb mono or fluorocarbon line. The reel I want would have adequate line storage for my purposes, but if I have my way, I don't see me ever need more than 150 yards of capacity. I also want to have a reel that is not too bulky even though I do have "Big Hands". These may be specifications that may have to be compromised on. The areas of most concern for me are (not necessarily in order): Drag capacity Ability to withstand this type of use for the long haul (durability) Fatal flaws RoR ('Rate of Retrieve' for both eliciting strikes and bringing fish to the boat) Casting ability/manners I think I can reconcile most of these attributes individually. Added all together, and I am beginning to detect the smell of old tires burning trying to come to a solid conclusion. I am having the thought that maybe a rig that is OK at many things may not do anything particularly well. Taken in a vacuum, the rate of retrieve is the one that strikes me as having to be the most compromised in one way or another. Many types of "mid-sized" swimbaits are effective using a VERY slow rate of retrieve. And then, when Bertha Muffintop decides to inhale the offering, many have the belief that it's best to turn the fish and keeping coming to the boat and directly into the net so the fish doesn't have a chance to shake the heavy bait loose. Reels with a low rate of retrieve are often very powerful, but the low RoR makes it easier for them to minimize the tension enough to turn or head to the surface for some tail dancing and head shaking. Then, some of the reels with the slowest rates of retrieve are 400 sized reels. and I really don't want the added line capacity, weight and bulk. Maybe I just need to learn to slowly and effectively retrieve my bait with a reel that has a higher RoR so that I can have the higher RoR when trying to boat the fish. When trying the new rod out, I employed a Curado 200K with a 6.2:1 ratio that has a 26" RoR and I was having to turn the handle VERY slowly to get the action I wanted from the baits I was using such as the Baitsanity Antidote. I am pretty sure that hucking baits like that is going to be the death of that Curado 200K, but I do think that many 300 size reels are durable enough for the task for the long haul. Some (mostly 300 or 400 size with some exceptions) reels that I think include some versions that may meet some of the criteria: Shimano Calcutta Shimano Tranx Shimano Cardiff Shimano Curado Shimano Scorpion MD (JDM) Daiwa Coastal Daiwa Lexa Daiwa Tatula Daiwa Ryoga Daiwa Prorex Daiwa Zillion TW HD Penn Fathom Penn Squall Lews Super Duty Okuma Komodo Okuma Citrix Abu Garcia Revo Some of the above reels I think wouldn't make the short list, in case anyone thinks there are some I may have missed (which I probably have missed, just not these). If you know of others that merit some consideration, feel free to list them. Also, since this isn't necessarily the main type of bass fishing that I do, I don't want to shell out a large sum of money for this if it isn't necessary. If it is really necessary to get what I'm looking for, then I am certainly open to looking for previously owned reels. If you have made it this far, thank you for considering all of the details I have included. If you went the TL/DR route, I understand ;~) At any rate, if you feel my logic is flawed, I'm all ears. How do you reconcile all of these things?

The action and power are important, but I have rejected many rods because I didn’t care for other attributes. weight balance ergonomics seat placement butt materials color I have also compromised because sometimes the rod I wanted didn’t at a price I was willing to pay.

I was close to being that guy 40 years ago, which is extremely excessive to me now. I used to take at least three sherpa-style trips from my vehicle to load a rental boat with just my stuff.

I have not owned an XT so I can't give a personal opinion about it's comparison vs the XT which I have heard generally good things about, but I also have an SLX 150 DC in addition to the SLX 70 MGL. I even use the MGL for Carolina rig fishing at times where I am making long distance bomb casts. It will cast around the same distance with a 3/4 ounce sinker that my Daiwa SV TWS will with a 1 ounce sinker, and I have to keep the bearings lubed on the Daiwa much more often. At the end of my casts with the MGL, I can just see the little bit of mono backing I have under the braid. All of the line capacity I need and very little that I don't. Probably not the best use of an MGL, but it can do it and I've never felt it wasn't up to the task. I bought the DC because I found a like new one for $90. I like the DC too, but if I had to pay retail for both, I'd probably save the money and go for another 70 MGL. And I have seen the 70 MGL for as little as $118.99 and it is currently IN STOCK.

Can't say that's a bad idea as I am a fan of not storing much more line on a spool unless I really need to. And, I really like my SLX 70 MGL, but it does cost a little more.

Which model specifically? Different models are in stock at different sellers.

Same here. I am quite pleased with my SLX MGL 70XG and SLX DC 150HG.

I did say I was "JUST KIDDING". . . . or. . . . was. . . . I? Bwahahahaha

As some famous Greek dude allegedly once said "surety is ruin". Bass prove this to be true quite often. Even if we knew what all of the factors are that affect their decision process, to quote a once famous candy bar commercial, "Sometimes you feel like a nut, sometimes you don't." ========================== I would add that there is a relationship between our thoughts & feelings that affects our behaviors. If given the choice, why would we do anything that we felt was unproductive? I like to tell my students that if I could make sure they learned anything from me, it would not really be about the subject matter of the course. It would be: You can do it. The struggle is worth it. You are worth it. If they believe those things, they stand a much better chance of achieving success because that will shape their behavior. The same thing applies to bass fishing success. ========================== Confidence is key to bass fishing success. If I don't believe that there is a catchable bass there, why would I cast there. Don't believe me? Watch an angler use FFS.

Maybe this will make it easier ? It's supposed to rain again this weekend, but after that we should both be ready to go. The fish might be another story, but I intend to find that out for myself. A question for you (when you're ready): do you think that when bass would not be actively feeding during those high activity periods, it might be a good time to use presentations that are better at triggering reaction strikes that are not feeding related?

I can't think of a solid argument to use one over the other TBH. I noticed that the left handed versions are a little harder to locate, especially at some of the more popular locations, and was just feeling a little froggy. Sometimes I wish I was comfortable using left handed baitcasters because they are often heavily discounted. Oddly enough, I am very comfortable using a spinning reel with the handle on the left side.

I see several online retailers claim to have them in stock. Is there a particular model you're having trouble finding? You're not one of those freaks that fishes left handed baitcasters, are you? JUST KIDDING, they have those available too, LOL.

I definitely prefer casting gear for Texas rig fishing, but encourage others to fish whatever way they want if that's how they want to fish. If you don't like fishing with casting gear for Texas rigs, do what makes you happy. If the bait is landing in deeper water and I don't want to have it pendulum toward me, I will try to cast farther than I need to, and then raise the tip and then dip it back down a second before splashdown just before the bait lands. I do this with casting and spinning gear if I feel the need. This will regulate the distance and it will strip out some extra line to let the bait begin sinking straight down. I can strip out a little more line before the line gets tight too if I want it to sink more. The fish will tell you how they want you to present the bait. I'll be the first to admit that I don't always care to listen, and sometimes I just want to do what I want to do anyway. I enjoy a slow methodical presentation and I think it takes more focus to fish that way. I'm sure others think it's just mindless and boring. I also know that if I only fish using a slow methodical presentation, then that's the only thing that will work for me, unless I get bit reeling the bait in at the end of a cast. . .

2001 GMC Yukon 2500 XL - 6.0L and a 1648 Tracker w/40 hp Merc. I keep my rods in the vehicle (with all of the seats laid down I can put a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood in there). I live just a few miles from the ramp and leave most of my actual fishing gear in the truck until I get to the ramp. It takes about a minute or so to put it into the boat once I am there. I normally take one soft tackle bag, a net, and four rods +/-. Sometimes a very small cooler if it's hot outside, and that's it.