Big Hands

I have a new Zodias B spinning rod (7'3" M+/F, it's closer to an actual MH in my opinion and rated to 3/4 oz - I wanted more hooksetting power for bigger hooks and it's definitely got that). I bought a heavier 3000 size reel just to balance to my satisfaction. I find many MH rods to be noticeably heavier toward the tip, so this wasn't unexpected. I also have a Zodias (A) 7'0" ML/F, and an Expride L+/F (A), an Expride (B) 6'8" M/XF (all spinning rods), and not to mention a Daiwa Zillion 6'10" ML/XF and a Daiwa Tatula Elite AGS 7'6" MLM/F (also spinning rods). They each have their own purpose and IMHO, although they do have some degree of crossover, none are redundant. How would I even go about quantifying the sensitivity relative to the other rods? All I can say with any certainty is that from where I sit, they're all really good. I do like the overall design on the Zodias A better than the Zodias B. I can't say it'll put even one more fish in the boat even if I do enjoy using one more than another.

Although I am not an engineer, nor did I sleep at a Holiday Inn Express last night, if a rod is a given length and the distance from the butt end to the foregrip increases, I agree that this would give the angler more leverage. However, if we're talking increasing the length of the rod and the distance from the butt end to the foregrip (and all other relevant factors) remaining more or less the same (which I think is what is being discussed here), I would think that would decrease the leverage the angler would have, no?

We've had a no water contact order in effect due to an algae bloom, and it will be for a couple more weeks if rumors are correct. The bloom started to clear itself a couple days before they bluestoned it, but they did it anyway. Didn't really seem to hurt the fishing much if at all. The lake was a relative ghost town on the holiday weekendand I got to fish an offshore spot that is usually swarming with wakeboats. The lake up the road that doesn't have such an order in place supposedly had hundreds waiting to get in.

As far as I know or can tell, they are not any 'worse' than they ever were. That said, I don't know that they are any different or better either. If you prefer old school classic style bass rods, they more or less are what they have been for a long, long time. If you can get a Dobyn's Champion HP in a style that works for you at a 35% discount, it's more than a solid deal (and not generally easily findable in my experience). That's an absolute bargain. At full MSRP vs the competition at full MSRP, I think it's worth your while to see how the competition stacks up.

The concept first struck me when I was in the middle of my own vision quest to find the perfect Senko rod. When querying for suggestions, I quickly found that although I was interested in a finesse presentation for this popular bait, I found that there are many different ways to present it. There are many perfect Senko rods, and they are often quite different from each other. In a perfect world, terms like power, finesse, BFS, light line, Bubba (LOL), deep, shallow, clear, etc., would all be easily quantifiable. Much like trying to figure out who the GoAT bass angler is, everyone has their own unique criteria. So, is it really 'power finesse'? I don't know, and maybe it's just fishing to others, but I think I might get where he's coming from. Or. . . . maybe not.

Have you tried the Gamakatsu Superline EWG in 2/0?

My biggest bass ever (just two ounces shy of thirteen pounds) was caught on a Poe's cedar plug. I don't recall if it was a 300 or 400 series. When I showed Tom @WRB-2.0 the point I caught it on, he said it was the same point that Bob Crupi caught his 22 lbs bass on. I knew it was in the same area, but didn't know it was the same spot.

I mostly only use braid for spinning rods, and use it on all of my spinning reels. 80% of them are loaded with 10 lbs braid and use 6, 7, or 8 lbs leaders of either mono or fluorocarbon. I have a lighter duty combo that uses 8 lbs braid and a medium plus combo that uses 15 lbs braid. Types I have tried include: PowerPro Daiwa J-Braid/Samurai Seguar Smackdown Suffix 832 Sunline (GASP!) KastKing Hammer Alpha 9 The only one I probably wouldn't use again is Smackdown. It didn't fare well in the environment I fish in (trees and rocks), and the incredible limpness was a PITA (. . . . for me) when rigging.

I have a Grizzly 1648, and I know I would definitely run into structural braces that support the front deck. My boat has a cubby hole access on the back side of the front platform and I can see the structural members that are in the way. I have to believe the 1754 is gonna be similar.

I have a couple 1/4 pound spools of 6 lbs Ande monofilament that I use on some of my BFS reels that is at least 30 years old. Landed a six pound striper on a Karashi with it last summer. I'll use line until it breaks unnecessarily a couple times. Then it gets binned or used for 'other purposes'.

Nailed it.

I recently put together what I call a "power spinning" combo, relative to what I normally use spinning gear for (finesse). I wanted it for using spinning gear to throw things like a texas rigged weightless Senko, Ika, or other such plastics while using a bigger hook (3/0 EWG). I will also be using it to throw good size topwater plugs for bass and stripers. It needs to have the power to set the bigger hooks, but be OK with trebles on larger topwater plugs. Rod: Shimano Zodias ZDS73MPB (7'3" medium +, fast). The lure rating is 3/16 to 3/4 ounce, and rated for 5-10 lbs line. Reel: Daiwa Caldia LT 3000S-CXH, 6.2:1 @ 37" IPT, 195g Line: 15 lbs braid with 10 lbs fluoro or mono leader So far, I like it a LOT. A very usable tip section and a firm powerful backbone. I chose the Caldia 3000S-CXH because it weighs around 195g, which balances better than something like a Vanford.I find with many medium and higher power spinning rods, they feel a bit tip heavy with a reel that weighs in the 165g territory. Shimano doesn't offer reels (that I could find) with shallow spools, higher gear ratios, and a little more weight that also have some of the better build quality and drag features. I was shooting for right around 200g, so the Caldia 3000 being 195g is right on target for weight, along with the other attributes I was aiming for. Shallow spool 3000 size reels are not common, even though they are widely available in 2500 and 2000 sizes.

I have three different 70 Metaniums (all JDM) and a Met 100, as well as a Zillion SV TW. Throw a blanket over them, reach underneath and grab one. They're all excellent. I think I'd pick the 100 for the OP's favored technique.

The "Monkey" never sleeps. . . . . . . in addition to having . . . . contagious influence.

The Enjoybot Group 24 12v 100 ah comes with a self-heating feature, has a 100 amp BMS, and bluetooth for $279

The Daiwa TTEL761MHXB is the Patrick Walters "Big Worm" rod. It's 7'6" and rated for 12-25 lbs line and 1/4 to1 oz lures. I'd call it more of a MH+/XF compared to my Daiwa MH/F "All Around". Might be worth a look.

When I see a big fish has my line rising toward the surface I have a couple strategies that I feel are helpful rather than just applying pressure, letting them jump and hoping for the best. 1) I will sometimes ease off some pressure when I sense they are still two or three feet below the surface. Often, this will cause them to change direction and they end up not jumping. 2) The other thing I do is to wait until they are less than a foot from the surface and sweep the rod horizontally with the tip down. This is usually done with heavier line and bigger hooks. This kind of pulls their head sideways as it breaks the surface. It's kind of like throwing a wet blanket on a grasshopper. They don't get to jump and shake like they were trying to do. I feel this has helped me many times, but the truth is that it's all a gamble and sometimes the fish wins anyway. And that's exactly as it's supposed to be IMHO.

I picked up the 6'10" ML/XF last year when the price had already went from $329 to $399, but the shop had it for 30% off of the $329 price on the tag. I got it for right at $250 out the door, and it is definitely a very good solid rod for that price. At $399, I agree that there are a lot of good options to check out.

I upgraded about 2/3 of the reels in my quiver this past year, 92.9% of which were purchased from JDM vendors. In addition to the pricing advantage the JDM offers, they are also more likely to offer shallow spool options, which is often noticeably better performance-wise.

I have not noticed this. Is this primarily on the Delta or have you experienced this in other bodies of water?

Sometimes, I'll catch 7-10 fish on the same Senko, sometimes it's only one. The only thing I notice when they start to get tore up is that they droop more from a wacky hook, but that doesn't seem to make them less effective.

I think you've nailed it (yellow perch color): https://googansquad.com/products/googan-squad-jr-scout?variant=31593275621439 https://googansquad.com/products/googan-squad-scout?variant=31081663987775

I have the 1st Gen Kage( KAG731MHFB), which is VERY similar (IIRC they were only priced with a $10 price difference) and is also listed as an "All Around". I don't know chatterbaits and swim jigs that well, but for bottom contact type jigs, Texas rigs, Carolina rigs, shakey heads, etc. it's been a standout rod for me for several seasons. IMHO the power and action ratings are spot on, it's well balanced. There is also a Brent Ehrler Tatula Elite version of this rod labeled as "Multi Purpose" instead of "All Around" (TTEL731MHFB) which several shops have, but are selling it for around $220. If you are a good internet shopper, you can also find shops that have it in stock, and have not yet raised the price from the original price of $189. AT $189, I think it's a no brainer so long as you don't mind the EVA split handle and the silver colored rod. If you want the full cork handle and a black rod, then the 'regular' Tatula just might be your huckleberry.

I once added a "note" with my order requesting they they not require a signature (which apparently they automatically do for orders exceeding 50,000 Yen) and they were happy to oblige.

My current preferred C-Rig setup is the Daiwa Elite 7'6" MH+ / XF Patrick Walters "Big Worm" rod (now affectionately dubbed "Paddy Wawa"), paired with a JDM Antares 100 XG with 15 lbs main line connected to a 3-4 foot J-Fluoro 8 lbs leader. I use either a 3/4 oz or 1/2 oz egg sinker depending on wind conditions. The Antares (with it's 37 mm spool) has been unchallenged for c-rig casting distance. I usually don't have to stray from a 4" Keitech EZ Shiner or Swing Impact in Electric Shad. When I need to take a heat check on the bass, this is my go to rig to see if they're home and awake.