GetFishorDieTryin

3 of 6? White, black, olive and brown. Black and olive are my favorite.

Ive read this countless time in books. I have come to find the exact opposite of stable weather to be the most productive for numbers and size by a far margin. As the fish feel the pressure fall they all start to look to feed at the same time. Which can cause fish that from allover the lake to school on a wind blown point or flat. One of my best days I had this year I was fishing in a snowstorm water was 38-42 but the fish were stacked and actively feeding. I smashed them on JBs, bladed jigs lipless and flat cranks. The most extreme example of foul weather turing the bite on I can think of is surf fishing as a NorEaster approaches. The wind and tide cause baitfish to stack in against the coast and the game fish take advantage of the opportunity. Its rough fishing with the wind and spray but its some of the most intense action Ive ever seen. Bass fishing in the winter in my area is just a case of figuring out where the fish want to feed relative to the structure they are staging from. Ned rigs, DS and jigs are great but one of the best tools to find fish that will cooperate in the shortest amount of time is a JB. Smaller swimbaits catch numbers in the same situations but the JB can turn a school of fish on. You don't always go by the book. If you can give fish something they haven't seen at the right time you can have a PB day. You will get far more understanding from that then anything you could ever read.

For lower weights just estimate and you should be ok. 1/32 is roughly .9 oz

Its not a tick like you feel in a spinning reel when the pinion is in certain position, its just geary.

The Avid Inshore is a 7'6 ML F spinning. I really like it but for what it cost I could have a custom rod purpose built for a few more $ that would be better for Inshore. The ML makes the cocktails and taylors really fun. I get use out of the 7'6 for freshwater though which I cant say for the mag taper custom rod. Casting gear is great and all but you know how it is on the beach. Its hard to keep a reel dry and that foam is full of sand. If it gets between the spool and frame it can cause issues fast. Dont get me wrong spinning reels will have issues too but they keep sand and salt out a bit better. If you want a 9' + check out the JDM style light surf rods on J and H. They have the Dark Matter OB its a 2 piece 10' 1/2-1.5oz so SP minnows, smaller Mag Darters, ML Catch 2ks and other plugs 1-7/8 are in the sweet spot so you can bomb em. Unlike conventional surf rods these rods have faster actions so you can throw lures under 1/2 pretty well. The JDM style light surf rods are made to balance with smaller reels like a VR 50 or 3k and 4k size reels. The OB rod only weighs 7 oz so the whole combo, rod and reel with line is about 2lbs so you can wing it all day. This is the link, https://www.jandh.com/products/dark-matter-ob-surf-spinning-rods.html if the link doesnt work go to jandh.com. They also have a MegaBass JDM light surf called Shadow Pangea which are lighter, the 9'2 is just over 5oz, but they also cost 2x as the Dark matter.

I knew it would be almost impossible to give any kind of accurate time estimate until you have the reel. I was hoping it would be a bearing issue, but I don't think it is. I can live with it, but its irritating. The guy who usually works on my Shimano is in Florida he may not be back until mid December. There are 2 more guys that are some what local, but I've never dealt with them directly. I should know 4 sure by this weekend. Thanks again.

I never said anything about heavy cranking. I think the reason I didn't notice it was because an unweighted senko has little resistance and the majority of the time I'm using the rod to move the bait and the reel is just taking up slack or semi slack line. I was throwing a 1/4oz swim jig today and it still felt geary. Don't worry about trying to recreate it, the rod, line and other variables have nothing to do with it. Ive used my other Met B which is the 7.1:1 to rip 3/8 and 1/2 bladed jigs and its been great. Im actually having trouble with the 6.2:1 Met B which in theory should have more torque from the lower ratio.

I bought the second JDM Met B because I loved how solid it felt. The second Met B doesnt feel horrible, but its not as smooth as the 1st one I bought a few months ago. It feels more like a Penn then a Shimano. I didn't notice it at first, but I was only throwing weightless senkos untill a couple days ago. Hard to say if was just a defect or if something happened in the short time Ive had it. I've babied both of the Met Bs, both look mint. They are cased when not in use and neither of the reels have taken any hits or falls. Damage during shipping is possible, but they were packed well and both boxes arrived in great shape. If you just had to replace the pinion bearing do you have a rough esimate of how long it would take to get it back? It would be coming from South Jersey....Thanks for taking the time respond

I got a JDM Met B a few months ago and loved it so much i bought another 1. I used it for weightless senkos and everything felt ok. A few days ago I tied a crankbait on it and noticed that when its under load it feels really geary which it shouldnt. I didnt notice it all when I had first got it, but it could have been because I wasnt putting much load on it with weightless senkos. I was really hoping it was just a dry bearing but after adding a little oil nothing changed. Since its a JDM I have no warranty in the US so I'm hesitant on sending it to Shimano. Has anyone else experienced this? What do you guys think it could be and who should I send it to?

Ive got an older 6'6 MH F spinning TM with the golf ball sized striping eye. Ive really put it to work and its held up for 12 or 13 years. I have a 7'6 Avid Inshore for light surf and it does really well with 1/2oz kastmasters and 1/4 jigheads. When you start get rods over 7'6 you have to compensate for the heavier tip and use a slightly heavier reel, I dont think the extra .5 ft is worth it. If your set on a rod over 8ft check out some the newer JDM light surf rods on J and H like the black hole and Shimano. SC is just phasing out the TM and improving the Mojo Inshores which isn't a bad thing. I see far more Avid Inshores then TM around so i see why they are doing it.

The 20 Metanium B is the reel I would recommend if your going to be getting a lighter rod. The Met can do just about anything within reason and it throws lighter baits really well.

I like Dobyns, but I'm not in love with them like other people are. The Champion XP was the highest tier Dobyns Ive got to lay lands on and even that felt a little heavy. SC is a safe bet, but the XF is a little stiff for cranks and bladed jigs. The Fast action would be much more versatile. If you didnt have the 3/8 bladed jig in the list of baits, I would say go with a Medium Fast. I found that a M F does really well with 1/4 bladed jigs for relatively open water. I have some Avids and I love them, but last year I bought a 13 Muse and TBH I like it more then my Avids. Its slighly lighter, just as or more sensitive and I really like the action of it. Its cheaper then the Avid as well being 180$. 13 has another rod that uses the same 36t blank as the Muse its called the Omen Black and its the best feeling rod for 140$ that Ive ever used.

The SC2 blanks have changed in the past 15 considerably and they have had the higher SC grades for just as long. I have old SC Avids, Premeirs, Tidemasters and Surfs and the difference in the diameter of the blank is significant. Odds are you wouldnt be able to tell the difference from the SC2 and SC3 rods if they werent labeled. The Avids are lighter then the Premeirs, Triumphs and older Mojos, but sensitivity wise its not night and day.

I don't think anyone is afraid of them. Fish may be afraid of them but I've just found them to be hassle for freshwater bass. I don't like duo locks on chatterbaits all they do is load up with grass. In fact I think the opposite, lighter baits are more negatively effected by swivels then heavy baits . I understand what your saying about pivot points, but I think a surgeons loop or Rapala knot and a 90 degree line tie is the best way to get a bait horizontal that I have found. Not ripping on you on all just my opinion.

Dont waste your time throwing 3/8oz JB on casting gear. Its far more efficient to use ML spinning (6'10 ML XF works well) gear and the action is much better with a crisp lighter rod. 110 jrs are great JBs but they dive fairly deep on 10lb fluro or 12 mono. JBs happen to be snag prone as well so 20$ a pop really stings. Pointers are great but take a look at Duos smaller JBs. Ive smashed them with Duos when 110 jrs struggle. I like the 78s but other then color selection the rozy 77 beats it every other category IMO.

I like a SH rod to have a little more power an just a little more tip then a DS rod. Honestly you can get a 6'10 ML XF and use it for DS, ned, neko, SH, wacky, spybaits, finesse swimbaits, small JB, finesse jigs and just about anything else with the word finesse in front of it and do fine

LMAO!!! Precisely my reaction

Theres a local chain of small lakes that never has more then 3ft viz at best and 1 foot or well under after it rains. There aren't many fish to begin with there and its highly pressured. I suppose its the pressure, but the majority of the time adding a rattle to your soft plastic or going from a silent crankbait to a rattling one cut the few bites in half. Having fished there my entire life I'm always surprised at how a bass can zero in on a 3" grub in water that looks like chocolate milk. If you cant buy a bite, scale down and fish high percentage areas. If you throw a 3" or 3.5" ktech enough times your going to catch a fish eventually.

Threading worms on a straight shank works. It doesn't look pretty but it can really help if the fish are biting short. You get more action by nose hooking vs threading. Some baits with a lot of buoyancy can float to the point that they are nearly parallel with the line when they are nose hooked. Threading the bait on the shank will correct that issue.

You can go just about anywhere in the country and catch fish on the same baits. There are SMB in the South as well as the north and if your targeting them the baits tend to be scaled down in sixe compared to bigger LMB baits. No 2 lakes are exactly the same on a few different levels. A rainbow trout hudd could be dynamite in one lake because it has stocked trout but wont work nearly as well in a lake a few miles away because it doesn't have trout.

The Tatula and USDM Ballistic are essentially the same reel. They both have Zaion frames and rotors, share the same AL main gear, but you can get a Ballistic a lower ratio without getting a JDM model. The difference is the Ballistic has the Magseal which I found works really well. If your running the boat with that reel on the deck or your fishing in the rain the Magseal is a +. The other difference is the Ballistic has a few seals that the Tatula doesn't have. Theyre both winners and you cant go wrong with either 1. If your going to spend some money consider the JDM Luvias. You get a lot more for a few $.

Its hard to keep wool gloves dry if your catching fish or picking grass of hair jigs. It still insulates when its set but its not nearly as warm as it is when its dry. Synthetic materials are the way to go IMO. Is hard to fish in full finger gloves, so if you can wear fingerless gloves without being to cold they are the best option. There are glomits which are fingerless gloves, with a fold over mitten that can cover your fingers. The idea is good, when the mitten isn't being used and its Velcrod to the back of the glove it makes it hard to get into pockets.

Depends on the hook and depends on the bait. Baits with higher salt content are going to corrode thin wire hooks that aren't plated pretty fast. Depending on the color, you can see the discoloration where the hook meets the air especially if its a white plastic. Your better off removing them from good terminal and baits if your not going to use them. Mend it is cheap, bladed jigs and tungsten heads aren't.

Always have one tied on in my boat. Little tough to fish from the bank sometimes, either way hard to beat.

The way I look at it is if you can catch fish through ice, you can catch them anytime. The Fall can be a trickey time of year. It almost always starts out well with the fish beginning to eat a whole lot more often. I could be whackn em for 3 or 4 days and then a big rain or cold front comes through and all of a sudden its a grind. Smaller water warms up faster, but also cools down faster compared to bigger lakes. If you get a few cold nights it can really drop the temp and the fish need to adjust. When things get hard go back to basics. A 3 or 3.5 Easy shiner with a ball head will catch fish any time of year. I can take 3" ktech thread it on a 1/16 #1 jighead and fish it as slow as I can without hitting the bottom and catch fish all winter. Neds, DS and jigs are great but they take time. The other bait that is always tied on is a Jerkbait. Have to be careful where you throw them so you don't lose them, but they can be amazing even when the water is in the 30s. Hope this helps, good luck.