GetFishorDieTryin

IMO, its pretty hard to beat the Alberto knot. Its thin to run through guides, very strong, works well dissimilar or similar dia of lines, quick to tie and fairly easy to lean. It takes a little while to learn how to cinch it well, so that its not too low on the bend of the leader, or too high. You want to walk it down, by alternating pressure on leader, them mainline. Once its at the optimal position, you pull all 4 lines until it tightens, then you just pull each mainline with a good amount of force to seat the knot. If you don't feel you're getting the Alberto down, then I would recommend using which ever iteration of the Albright is easiest to tie for you. The Uni-Uni/Double Uni knot, is very simple. It doest have the strength of an Alberto, some types of Albright or FG, however its more than serviceable. The uni uni, has a little more dia. when compared to other connections. Its not the best option for longer leaders that require you to take the knot into the spool. It will work with a little bit of deviation, but its best when both leader and tag are of similar dia. Good luck.

I had a lot of trouble initially finding a DS hook that performed well. I had a bunch of those VMC spinshots and I struggled to land anything. Eventually I tried the standard drop/split shot hook Gami makes and started cracking em. Went from 50% landing rate to 90% or better. As good as the Gami hooks perfromed, I was sontantyl looking for the "better mousetrap". I tried the highly sugested Mosquito or Octopus style, which are good, but they dont have the penetration I need with a ML. Loved the mosquito lite, but I was breaking a lot of them when I had to use pliers to get them out. A a bridge i fish often in the late winter/early spring is great for DSing. Every now and then you could have a day where the fish were hesitant to commit and swallow the lure. Instead of using a #1 or 2 Gami, I started using a #4 or #6 VMC Neko and threading the bait on the shank. It hurts the bait action wise, when compared to a nose hook, but it would stick those weary fish.

If you think its just Shimano raising prices, you're not looking around. MB, 13 and a select other companies are outliers. In fact I'm fairly certain Daiwas' prices have taken a larger jump, especially when it comes to reels. Many companies put out multiple notices within the past 5 years about 20-35% increases on products and had an exact figure on each category of products, rods, reels, lures and so on. The first price hike came in 21 or 22 and the 2nd was last year. You mention SC and other domestically made products. Honestly, I'm surprised you don't understand how the tariffs affected the industry. It was kind a big topic here. As far as the X guides go, Shimano has introduced multiple designs of the X guides in the past decade. They have a tangle free double foots and 1 piece tips designed for surf fishing, and they're VERY GOOD. Designing a guide that is light, can hard impacts without failure and constrict 80+ yards of widely coiled heavy PE, in just a few years is impressive. It took Fuji years to get the concept surf guides to work well and even more time to iron out the problems. I could understand your initial point, if it was 2017. Or if Daiwa hadn't made a proprietary guide that by your own criteria, beats the pants off Fujis flagship guide, in terms of weight. You yourself litteraly said... Its confirmed, yet you do not yield and start to move the goal posts to Shimano is gouging people. Which I dont really think is the case. Expride would have sold less for $350, but it still would have sold, the rods are that good. You mentioned NRX being the best. Although NRX has had some slight improvements, it was released in 2010, 3x the amount of time you're getting on Shimano for. Which by the way Shimano wants you to buy NRX, they own G Loomis. The warranty is nice, but it's not what it used to be in the 90s or like SCs transferable lifeitme warranties back before that company started to rot from the inside out.

The #8s and 5s have become very popular for the 110 and 110 Jr, and they are the first sizes to sell out. Ichis' hooks run a hair smaller than most. I would be willing to bet the #7 light wire RC would work really well. Theres also a regular wire option in the RC Kamakiri that come in #8. I would bet that There are a few other options that I haven't tried, but I would bet work really well. Haybusa TBL 930 NRBs in #8 would be a great match. The 930s are no frills round bend style hook, with the boxy U bend that is unique to Hayabusa. Although they look like something you would buy 25 years ago, they use a very high grade wire and super slick coat, which is what the 'NRB" stands for. They make them in a black chrome finish as well, but I have found the 930 NRBs in #8 to be great on Pointer 65s and Rozy 63s. Although they run a half to a full size larger than most other trebles, the BKK Hyoerlatch 70 UL in #8 would work very well. I have the #6s and when compared to G finesse trebles, they are about the size of the G finesse #4, in shank length, while the gap of the #4 Gami is just a hair wider. Although the hooks are bigger than most, the wire dia is very fine. Im very confident that the 110 Jr would have no problems suspending(or slow float) with 3 of the BKK UL trebles. The #6 G finesse hooks run quite small. The smallest hook available is a #6, but its a very small #6, roughly the size of most #8s. The wire on the g finesse trebles is very light, so I dont see the 110 Jr having any trouble with them.

I saw the little nessie rigged up on a buddys rod. I commented on it and he gave me one. That was like 6 months ago and Ive yet to even get it wet. When you scale baits up or down, it doesnt mean you will get the same action and just by the feel of the little nessie, I would be very surprised if it had great action.

The 13 composite cranking rods have a soft action, are very light and available at different price points. Most of the time, I think investing more in the rod is the way to go. Cranking rods are the exception, you just need a rod with the right action, good ergonomics and lightweight, which you can get for less than half of your max cost. Investing the saved money into a new reel or on a rod meant for a technique that really needs a high degree of sensitivity, like a shaky head, strolling or jig rod.

Anyone who isn't living in a cave knows prices have gone up considerably. There have been 2 large increases in price in the past 5 years. The vast amount of products cost 20-40% more than they did 5 or 6 years ago. Comparing current prices to what they were a half decade ago, is akin to grandpops musings of how many ferry rides and hot dogs he could buy with a nickel when he was a kid. Objectively, Shimano is known for making pretty good products. Arguing that Shimano is a "no name' brand is a dubious undertaking. I could understand some trepidation if the guides were new, however that's not the case. Its been about a decade since they were first introduced to flagship Shimano products. Enough time has elapsed since the introduction of the X guides to determine their quality. Not only have the guides performed well, but Shimano has expanded their guide production into several different iterations. If the surf guides hold up, its pretty safe to say that the design philosophy and process is sound. Obviously, the frame material is the same when comparing Torzites to the X guide. The advantage of Torzite over Sic or Alconite is the weight reduction of the insert. Torzite inserts can be very thing without compromising the integrity of the insert. Torzite compares to Sic very well as sic inserts are almost double the weight. There are slim sic inserts in Titanium frames available, but I think theyre only available in smaller sizes for lighter gear. Directly when comparing Ti X guides to Tozites, the X guides do pretty well. Shimano's ability to manufacture products with very tight tolerances, enables them to produce thin, yet strong Ti frames with very thin ceramic layer. When comparing size for size, the X guide is a lighter product. Does that mean X guides are the best guides? IMO, no. If you're goal is to get the lightest guide possible, than neither Torzites or X guides are the best choice. AGS guides are far an away the lightest guide I know of. When comparing the weight of SS Alconites to an AGS train, the reduction in weight is drastic. While the difference isnt as great as when compared to SS, AGS guides are considerably lighter than even torzites. You can come close to cutting the total weight of the guide train in half by using AGS instead of torzite guides. As good Fuji guides are, they aren't the only game in town anymore. Other than Sea Guide, American Tackle and Alps, more and more rod companies are making their own guides. As disposable and discretionary income wanes for the majority of the country, I suspect we may see more competition for the best budget products. Brands that produce their own components, save a little, which hopefully is passed onto the consumer.

I really like BKK 71s, Am G finesse TGWs and Ichi RC Kamakiri for JBs, but not to fond of them on cranks. I like a few different light(er) wire short shank trebles for cranks. The size of the bait, time of year and outfit im using dictate what trebles Im using. My absolute favorites are the Ichikawa short shank Kamakiris. Its like a compromise between a JB hook and typical SS EWG. The points are super sharp, and the wire is very strong for being 1x. They work very well throughout the entire year. Unlike most short shanks, the points arent facing in, they actually flare out a tiny bit. The slight outward bend is a big advantage in the winter or when the fish don't commit. If they aren't committing o the crank and just slapping at it, there's a good change that fish gets hooked. If a fish hit the crank on a pause and you don't feel it, the hooks are sharp enough hang up if the fish tries to blow the crank out of its mouth. I was impressed with the strength of the hooks, especially them being a 1x. The BKK EWG 71 is one I just started using last year. Sticky sharp points and very strong 1x wire. Theyre kind of similar to Mustad triple grips, but the wire is superior on the BKK. The beaked points are sharp and stay sharp. The only issue is that beaked points are a little more challenging to sharpen. I like the BKK EWG once the water beings to warm and fish them until late Nov or early Dec. This one surprised me. VMC and I have a love/hate thing going. I don't care for a good deal of their produces, but the designs I do like are outstanding. The VMC hybrid short shank really surprised me after strongly disliking a few different trebles from VMC. The alloy is of great quality, resulting a strong and sharp hook. Unlike a bunch of hooks ive used from VMC, this SS EWG has the ability to flex a little without compromising the strength of the wire. Being a 1x, it has good penetration at distance and with lighter tackle. This hook also snags many of the fish that just slap at it. Like the BKK, the points of this hook are beaked. The hooks stay sharp and resist rolling, but again if that point does roll, reshaping that beak takes some time to do well.

The only swim jigs I throw a spinning rod arent really swim jigs at all, but they do great in that roll with the right trailer. The Keitech Mono jig is tiny, and uses a #3 hook. I'll use the 1/16 with a 3" bubbling shaker or 2" G tail twin creature, both made by Reins. The 1/16 with a bubblign shaker is an outsanding bait to use all year, but really excels in the winter. I can shake the slack line and almost keep that little jig standing still at a consistent depth. Eventually they eat it. Sadly the 3" bubling shaker seems to be no longer sold in the US or discontinued altogether and the G tail is very hard to find. Its a shame too, as its the buoyancy and supple texture of the plastic that really makes them work so well. Keitech has decent plastics, but they are a little soft. The 2.5 swing impact would work well enough, but I like the depth control I could get with the straight tail. The 2" Keitech is a good replacment for the G tail, but you need to remove the skit from the spider grub. The 2" Cabin Creek spider grubs may work well too, but I have no experience with them. The whole key with any swim jig is to have a minimal skirt. A full 55 strand skirt will just stick together, where a "centerless" cut will breathe. I haven't dialed it in yet, but Ivc been using the Molix Nano jig in 1/8. Its still a micro jig, not much larger than quarter. It uses a #1 hook with a limerick bend, which really helps with strength. The jig itself is of impressive quality, and should get way more attention than it does. As I said earlier im still trying to find the best trailer and skirt cut combination to get it how I like it. For more traditional finesse swim jigs, there are a bunch of good options but IMO 2 really standout. The Beast Coast workingman swim jig is one of the best looking jigs out there. The skirt makes the jig and BCs skirt material and colors are some of if not the best. I love that they include krystal flash and have the jigs pre cut in the facotry. I still modify the skirt, but its just a few snips as opposed to many other that I have to take half of the silicone out. Although it s a finesse swim jig, the skirt isnt just for roll, it actually works in light cover, which I really like. The hook is a short shank 2/0 BKK. The 2/0 is the a great size, as I can fit a 3.5 Swammer on it, or 2.75/2.8 keitech and it all fits great. My favorite trailer at the moment is the Zoom swimming fluke jr. Its 4" but the profile is very small and htin, so it looks much smaller to the fish. Surprisingly, the little fluke has a TON of roll in it, which what you want. They only come in 1/4 and 5/16, but thats all you need. If the bait rises too fat, just thin the skirt. As much as I love the BC workingman, the absolut best finesse swimjig Ive ever fished is the Greenfish Chibi Swim. Its not as flashy as the BC and doesn't come in a ton of color options, but you dont need many. The eye is horiztonal,, but I think that helps with action, and honestly its not meant for cover anyway. The head is keeled, which accentuates roll. The skirt uses good material and isnt too thick, although you can change thin it out or shorten it, which I do both depending on the trailer. What makes this jig so great is the hook. It uses a 1x long shank Gami O'Shaughnessy. The long shank, thin wire and stupid sharp hook, requires just a little bit of pressure to stick em, often, the fish hook themselves and one they're hooked the O'Shaughnessy bend keeps them on. Normally I dislike longer shanks and bigger bites on swimjigs, but the skirt is big enough to hide the long shank and gap very well. The long shank also makes the jig versatile, as it can accomodate small 3" up to bigger profile 4" trailers. The two I use the most for this is the 3.5 swammer, if I want a larger profile or that swimming fluke Jr, for a smaller profile. The only negative to this bait IMO is its availability. They don't make a ton of them and the few ppl that use them, take advantage when they are available. My favorite colors are Almost and Green Pumkin.

The FG is a good knot for dissimilar line dia. FG is pretty good down to #8 or even some #6 mainlines FC, but thin leader material like #6 Grand Max or Gold Label or under, the FG isnt as effective. Once you get under #6 the PR is more effective than the FG.

No name? Shimano produces them in house. Theyve been around for a little while and are on flagship products. If there was any issue with them, it would have been exposed by now. Shimano has a good track record when it comes to new tech or features. They test them thoroughly enough to debut them on flagship products, and the tech trickles down into lower PPs eventually. Daiwa, they seem to have a different philosophy. Often, they have new tech, it goes on a mid PP or lower upper end products, to see how it fares. If everything goes well, they will incorporate that tech or feature into upper PP and flagship products.

So many great choices for PE now. Knowing the attributes of the line you want is the vast majority of the battle. For spinning gear I like a thin supple line that doesn't get ropey too fast and doesn't bleed its color all over your hands and gear. I see lots of love for Smackdown, its a good line, but I had some issues with it. I had it in #8 and 10, which casted and handled great. My issue with it was that fishing around any kind of vegetation with thorns, or long thin protrusions, the spines or thorns can slip through the weave, causing it to unravel. If you don't cut the well below the separated carriers, the area where its opened up will just progress up and down the line. Ive never had another PE do that and at smackdowns price point, I think there are options that are better. For more budget and or easily available lines, X9 and PP V2 are very good. Pline TCB is great, but like any other heavily coated line, you lose some performance as the coating wears away. The duration depends on how often you use the line. If you fish long days with just that outfit several times a week you may only 4 or 5 weeks of peak performance. It also tends to get a little ropey too after 4 or 5 months. It still performs pretty good without the coating and Ive never had it fail on a fish, but when the line looks frayed, I don't have as much confidence in its strength. While the Teflon coating lasts, its one of the best performing lines Ive used. So for under $20 its pretty good. YGKs Upgrade X8 is a little more money, but its an outstanding PE. Other than Silky or Gosen, I would take X8 over any other 8 carrier. Ive been using Almight, a sinking 5 carrier braid on my BFS outfit. Despite the numerous poor reviews, Almight has done very well for me. I still have to really put it to the test in SW, but I have confidence it will do well.

832, really? Im surprised because there other PE, TCB is like the polar opposite of 832. Super smooth, limp, very thin (for USD), resists absorbing water and great for distance. (especially when new) The drawbacks would cause many anglers to avoid it. TCB is heavily treated with a Teflon like coating. That coating helps it slip through guides like crazy, but it wears off fairly quick, especially for guys who wade or fish from a yak and are limited to 1 or just a couple rods, as someone who wades may put 30+ hours per week on that 1 rod if its an ideal moon phase. Once that coating wears the line still performs well, but you notice a little water retention that wasnt there before. The biggest issue is its longevity. Ive had #10 and #15 start to get ropey and pill after a solid fall. Although ive never had it break unintentionally, the overall strength is compromised to some degree in the first 20-30'. I have had guys who worked at TD tell me that in heavier iterations its an outstanding PE for casting outfits that are used to cover water, and I could believe that. Ive heard several people say that the EndurX is good, but none that I can really vouch for. I have a spool of #10 somewhere in storage and I just need to throw 40 yards on an empty BFS reel and go from there. Thanks for your $.02. Tight Lines

Bucktail, chicken feathers, nylon, krystal flash and other synthetic materials tied on a treble, or just a hookless piece of wire called a flag, serves several purposes. It helps to conceal heavier trebles Adds a little flash or highlight, to help fish key in and hit closer to the hook. Most importantly, a dressed treble or flag increases drag to improve action. Heavy slashing jerkbaits, or walking pencils make use of dressed trebles to keep the bait from blowing out and or covering too much linear distance. Think X Raps, Skitter Pops, older SW Pop Rs.

I really like Xzones plastic. Its soft enough to have great action, yet they are fairly durable and they have some great colors. The adrenalin craw is really versatile. Theyre great on all kinds of rigs. The solid colors are good for swim jigs. Take your beat up ACs and remove one of the claws, then rig it sideways so the remaining claw is on top. The Muscle Back Craw is really good too. It just doesn't get as much attention as the AD. .