Chrisko

Monofilament fishing line is an extruded resin. In any extrusion process, there can be variances in thickness/diameter. Because Mono line is the same base resin regardless of brand, material costs are fairly consistent. To extrude a produce with a progressively tighter tolerance costs more money to do (requires better qty equipment, there is more scrap for out of spec line - it's why aircraft parts are more expensive than automotive parts - tighter tolerances to meet). I SUSPECT cheaper selling line may more likely be a larger diameter (reported) than a more expensive line for the same test weight. Why? because of looser tolerances and cheaper production. If the tolerance to the specified diameter is allowed to be fairly larger - the line maker is smarter to just make the line thicker - so when the low end of the tolerance range is reached, that narrower diameter tolerance is still going to deliver the weight rating. I SUSPECT these line makers report the "base/specified" diameter is the diameter of their line. The act of processing and extruding the material (nylon) and post extrusion handling/packaging of the line is far more costly than the actual material costs (ie. nylon resin). Nylon resin pricing is typically around the $2 per pound rate - with fluctuations on market conditions.

It's actually Shimano's proof of authenticity. Taking it off or leaving it on is up to you. I strongly suspect either way it won't have any impact on the number of fish you catch!

Hoping somebody with one of these Expride rods will chime in. I just bought the 6'8 medium spinning rod - according to my readings, it is supposed to be a 6'8 medium with extra fast action. Reason for my question is that my rod on the shaft is labeled as "M268". It does not show "EX268MA" which is what the TackleWarehouse and Shimano sites list it's model as. Having just received it, I am now concerned that it is not actually the current version 6'8 medium/Extra fast rod I was counting on.

That is the primary focus, throwing bait (sand fleas or shrimp) from shore to catch the pomps. However, I'd also likely do some casting in the flats/shallows/backwaters. And possibly even looking for some fresh water ponds (etc) and throwing for some bass. But yeah, the Ugly Stick approach is my back-up and then just leave them down there for following years. That's always a good idea and doesn't require much effort and coordination.

Thanks BassWhole, this is sort of what I was thinking - a MH. Hulkster, with the surf fishing, I would preferably be catching Pompano (for eating) - these are fairly small fish. But it is common for us to hook into smaller sharks, sting rays, and a variety of other fish (snook, trout, etc.). We'll also fish a little backwater flats and may even make a day trip to the Big O for bass. I have both the Tranx 300 and 400 reels (for musky fishing). I'll also use the 300 on both a frog rod and a heavy swimbait rod (806). I have a St. Croix premier musky (but in a heavy or even extra heavy, can't recall now. Love visiting their store in Park Falls WI though) - but would prefer to go with more bass compatible rods (using this as an excuse to order new rods to ship to Florida vs. paying to fly them down oversized extra bag with me on a flight). I don't need anymore musky rods . . . well, I suppose that's never actually true ? I guess my general feeling is that if I am to err on an over/under basis, I'd rather go underweight a bit for surf fishing (should a larger fish hit) than be stuck with something too heavy for my type of bass fishing. Plus it's always fun to catch a fish a lot bigger than the equipment is rated for. My wife caught her first 46" musky on an ultra-light using 4 pound mono - that was a great experience for her.

Hi All, I fish freshwater as I am from Michigan. However, I go to Florida each April and do a little Salt Water fishing - mostly shore/surf fishing for pompano and similar fish, and occasionally some peer fishing. All my boat Salt fishing is with guides - so covered there. My question is what recommended moderately priced rods that I can use for this purpose - but also will make worthwhile fresh water bass (or even musky) fishing rods for the rest of the year? FWIW, I will bring 2 reels - casting = Shimano Tranx 300/400 (saltwater safe) and spinning = Shimano Stradic 5000 (saltwater safe).

I can't speak for the Tranx 200 . . . as looking at that reel brought me to this thread. I do have the Tranx 300 and 400 reels and love them. What inspired me about the 200 was the salt water compatibility vs. the curado k or 200. I also have several of the Curado DC reels - I LOVE them! I've heard people refer to the Tranx 200 as the salt version of the Curado (though I can't say if this is true). Personally, for sizing the reel, I am a little bit less about the size of the fish than I am the size of the lure that will be thrown. If you're throwing 2-3 ounce lures, I'd go up to a 200+ reel (or even the tranx 300). Anything over 3 ounces, I would definately go with the tranx 300 or 400. My experience for pike where I fish, isn't so much a large heavy lure. So, IMO, I think the Curado DC would be perfectly fine (and this is my favorite reel I own) - but any of the larger one's would be too (except maybe the 400 is getting a bit big). Do you have other reels in the 200 to 300 range? If not, then I would get one of these larger reels - just to balance out future changes to what you fish. The Tranx 300 is a great pitching reel, IMO. You have the power and drag to pull through the weeds better. The 200 reels are going to give you more of this too vs. the 150 sized Curado DC. I also like the Tranx 300 for larger swim baits (8" to 12" size).

I have a Quantum older Iron Series (I think is the line) spinning reel. I can't even say how old it is. Have had it for years but I don't fish as much as most of you. I've never had any issues with it. I can't say that it get's much use or abuse or anything like that. I am sure I bought it last minute for a trip and probably due to it's low price and possibly even as a back-up reel. I still use it, it works. For what I probably paid for it, I would say that I got my value out of it. Would I buy that same reel again? Probably not, I now use Shimano BC and larger spinning reels. And I have been a big fan of the Pflueger President line of smaller spinning reels (up the 3500 size range - but most smaller/lighter reels). I know for years I'd hand the rig with the Quantum reel to one of my kids to fish with (not worrying if they'd damage it). They never did . . . To me and with most products, considering quality of a company 's products from 10-20 years ago to predict what you'll get today is useless in most cases. Largely, I just seek out products that are NOT made in China as a general rule of thumb - but that's not always possible and there are companies producing in their own plants in China that can still produce decent stuff. I suspect the Pflueger President reels are made in China (and I also think their quality has diminished from those I bought 10-15 years ago vs. this year's 3 new spinning reels). I don't think any of my Shimano reels are made in China (Tranx, Scorpion, Curado, SLX, Stradic)?

I have both reels, also have a SLX DC. I am about to order another DC reel for myself and also one for my son (for Christmas). According to my research online, it states that the Curado DC and Scorpion DC both have the same line capacity 110 yards at 12 pound (mono). But I have to say, having spooled all three lines, it just seems to me that the Scorpion actually had less capacity (BUT! I used braid in the SLX and Curado) and 17 pound (?) mono in the Scorpion. Which is better? All three are great, the SLX is a better deal than the Curado. The SLX is a smooth reel, though in side by side comparison, the Curado DC is slightly smoother with it's micro gearing. I don't think you would notice a difference if you used one this weekend and the other reel the following weekend - you'd only notice side by side comparing. The Scorpion feels more like the Curado than the SLX (on a side by side basis in terms of smoothness). I don't feel any real difference in smoothness between the Scorpion and Curado DC reels. I believe the Scorpion has a slightly higher drag rating (by 1 pound, 12 vs. 11 pounds). But this may be nothing more than a calculation issue from metric to SAE(?). The Scorpion feels like a slightly smaller reel. To me, the benefit of the Scorpion is the new DC system vs. the Curado. They are currently about the same price. The Scorpion is a Japan market reel - so that should be considered from a warranty perspective or possibly future spare parts! When are the Curado/SLX/Other IDC-5 reels (in this price range) being released in the USA? They seem to be unable to keep the build levels now in stock, these are tough reels and often sell at list price. Surprisingly, of the 3, I am most likely to find the Scorpion at less than the retail price, and even less than the Curado selling price - for comparison. Strong support and sales typically doesn't result in an upgraded version being released - that typically happens when the "old" reel starts to see falling demand and discounting prices . . . but who knows???

What about compatibility? You run Hummingbird and use their transducer (for your two finders, presumably). Now, you want to add a garmin. Does the Panoptix ICE version transducer only do the Panoptix? Or it it a full transducer which also has Panoptix? I should know this, as I run Garmin and have given peripheral thought to the panoptix. I believe running multiple transducers (assuming the same frequencies, etc. . . ) can cause problems. I was on a boat recently that was running the panoptix live. Not so sure that it sold me enough (guess that's why my research didn't take off). I like what I have seen from the 360 - but that is only via videos, not in person experiences. For me with Garmin EchoMap Ultra - I would like to see a bit better results from the panoptix before plunking another $1,000+ for it (or whatever it costs to add it on all said and done - presumably including adding another screen to boot).

A large, expensive swim bait is not going to ever catch you a 10 pound bass if there aren't any 10 pound bass in the body of water you fish! Obviously. Where I live (Michigan) and the lakes I fish (for bass, inland lakes), I am delighted to catch bass in the 4-5 pound range and consider those exceptional fish for those bodies of water. I've had some success with the S-waver. But I've also had some success with a cheap rubber jointed (achieved not by hinge, but by thickness of material) Storm brand perch looking swim bait that cost like $10 when I happened to be at a Walmart picking up some sinkers. I have the Savage Gear Shiner. Actually bought it for musky fishing. It didn't work, swam only to one side. Bought it in person at the Musky Shop in Wisconsin - didn't realize it's flaw til back in Michigan. Couldn't get it to swim right, gave up on it. A few months later, organizing my gear, it urked me. Looked up Savage Gear, sent an e-mail, asked them if they could suggest any methods to tune the lure to swim correctly and outlined what I had tried. They asked for some pictures, which I took at every angle in hopes that it would show something that they could say was wrong with it. They never suggested any specific tweaks or tuning steps, just asked for my address, apologized and sent me a new one. I wasn't fishing for a replacement, figured they'd be able to recommend some changes or adjustments to get it to work better. So they went far above and beyond what was asked of them. Took the new one out to test it's action (not actually to fish it). Got a 3 pounder on it quickly. Swam great. I prefer a swim bait that has a slow sink as it better allows me to fish different locations or areas. The slow sinkers are easy to keep at or near the surface, but also allow me to fish a few feet down. Fishing from my dock, the benefit of the few feed down has resulted in better bites than fishing in that same area very close to the surface (ie. 6" or so). Next year, I'll try out some of that weight tape that can be temporarily applied to lures in an attempt to test different depths. FYI - as a person who fishes for musky, perhaps it may be worthwhile to consider the musky section (if there is one), in your local shop! Musky baits are pretty expensive (or so I thought) until I looked at the price of some of these swim baits. I've had quite a few large bass strike musky lures, especially early morning top waters . . . Funny how catching a pretty decent bass doesn't feel quite as rewarding when it happens while fishing for musky . . .

I happen to own both the SLX DC and the Curado DC (as well as the Scorpion with ID5). For casting and the DC controller, there is no difference between the SLX DC and the Curado DC - they both have the same system (ID4), same set-up and same performance with this regard. I base this on both my in-depth research and my experience. I have both the SLX DC and the Curado DC installed on the same exact poles, same exact line and casting the same exact lure with the same exact settings. The performance of the DC, especially with regards to backlash is the same. I cannot see any difference in the casting difference (if there is one, it is minimal IMO). Casting is like golfing or free-throw shooting; no two casts are going to be exactly the same in all regards and as a result, each cast can delivery slight different results. All that said, the reason for MY purchasing these reels is for the DC and reduction in backlash. Backlash potential is greatly reduced, but by no means is it eliminated (at least with actually usable settings). At my age, this is a story of teaching an old dog (well, maybe not that old) new tricks (bait casting reels). Is the Curado DC a better reel than the SLX DC in other regards? Sure, as one would expect by the price point and additional features. Make no mistake, both of these reels are very smooth - the Curado smoother due to the micro gears. But if you picked up either reel, you both would feel quite smooth. Is it likely the Curado may last long? Quite possibly. Is the Curado a better choice for salt fishing? Yes. Does the Curado look like a higher quality reel in comparison? While certainly a matter of opinion, I would say yes. I don't care so much what a fishing reel looks like though. Me: I am by no means a professional fisherman. I consider the Curado DC to be a fairly expensive fishing reel for a bass fishing reel. I also own Shimano Tranx 300 and two Tranx 400 reels (for musky fishing). I love those reels! I also own a bit older Shimano Calista bait casting reel (my 1st for BC, and cause of many frustrations). In the end, if you're not buying them for the benefit of the DC (ie. to reduce backlash), then I personally think you are just wasting your money in buying the DC version of these reels. I purchased them for this reason alone! Though I was in the process of adding a few BC reels - and with my "old dog/new trick" issues, the DC was the logical purchase.

The transition from spinning to bait casting reels, for me, has not been easy! Having grown up with spinning reels my whole life, a few years ago I decided to buy a bait caster (a lower to mid level Shimano as recommended by the sales guy). I didn't know how to set it up, didn't read the manual (it was a fishing reel!) and proceeded to hate it. I wasn't the slightest bit accurate, found it impossible to deal with, and hated that I had to cast with one hand, change hands and then start reeling it in. But the sales guy told me that baitcasters are designed to be reeled in with the right hand - what did I know. I think that reel is 5 years old, until this year, it's been used maybe 2-3 times - until frustration and poor results and endless backlashes made me put it down. At my wife's request, we decided to take up musky fishing this year! My research indicated that to musky fish, the use of a "bait" casting reel was the norm/standard and that many of the Musky level reels only came in right hand versions. Of course, I recalled my last experience buying a casting reel and what a waste of money it was. Knowing my wife would not have the patience or be willing to put in the time to learn to use a casting reel, we got her a Shimano Stradic 5000 Series spinning reel (she is plenty capable with it and spinning reels in general). I forced myself to learn how to use a Shimano Tranx 400 (which I bought with the left hand retrieve). In preparation for a guided trip to Lake St. Claire, she agreed to learn how to cast the casting reel for musky. It took her some work, some practice and then a little more time with the guide - she can do it. Can't get any where close to the same distance or accuracy that she has with the spinning reel. When she bait casts, she uses a left hand retrieve (she is right handed). In the guided trips, they all have right hand retrieve - which she doesn't like, I don't either, but I can deal with it. The big, heavier, thicker lined musky reels are much easier to cast than the smaller bass sized casting reels. Of course, musky fishing, the lightest lures are over an ounce, and more often in the 3 to 8 ounce range - which supposedly helps, as does the heavier line. This summer, I promised to teach myself how to cast my smaller bass fishing shimano bait caster (Callisto I think it is). And everyday (that I fish) I commit to an hour or more on it, I end up with a high degree of frustration. I am less accurate, can't cast as far (not that this is a big deal 95% of the time), can't control my distance nearly as well, and experience frequent backlashes (and yes, I have taken the time to learn to properly set up these reels). So a huge majority of my time bass fishing, I am using a spinning reel/rod . . . and my catch rate to hours spent fishing is far better than when I use a bait caster. But I am of that age where I grew up casting a spinning reel - it's what I knew, know, felt comfortable with. I am still not very good with a bass sized casting reel, but am working hard at getting better. I finally broke down and ordered a new one (Shimano 17 Scorpion DC) in hopes that it will make my enjoyment better. In the end, you don't need a bait caster. There really isn't anything a bait caster can do that one cannot also do with a spinning reel set-up - at least fishing for bass. It simply boils down to individual preference and what one is most accustomed to and most familiar with. Growing up, we went on 10-day canoe trips in the Quetico. We each brought two rod/reel combos (in case one broke). The same spinning reel would cast light weight rapalas, heavy spoons, spinner baits and everything in between for bass, walley and pike. We didn't miss many fish, caught tons of fish and were never limited by not having a heavy spoon specific reel, or jerk bait rod, or anything like that. The companies that make these products do much better convincing us that we need 12 rod/reel combos and we need to change them out based on all sorts of scenarios - full sun, partial shade, early morning, dusk and leap year status . . . And that all of us who own/owned 6 - 12 spinning reels now have to replace them with some other design reel or the fish are going to stop biting! I am not criticizing anybody. I am just as guilty with way too much equipment. In the end, my wife caught her first musky (46") on a 5 foot, ultra-light rod/spinning reel combo using 4 pound mono. I didn't have the heart to tell her that it doesn't count because she wasn't using the designated rod, reel, special line, and 130 pound fluoro leader! By the way, the next musky that hit for her, was another low 40" musky. She was using a large musky top water bait, 400 Series Daiwa reel (guide owned), St. Croix musky rod, 80 pound test braid, 130 pound fluoro leader. Ironically, using every single piece of the right equipment - that fish still got off the line! I can't say which style of reel is actually better, universally. I can say that any given person can be better with one style vs. the other, and that is largely going to be based on their earlier experiences fishing, combined with their willingness to put in the time to learn a new trick on "new" technology. My point, there is no real reason and no true/real benefit that one reel type is better than the other. Both types are very capable of performing in a very wide range of bass fishing environments very successfully. Both have their idiosyncrasies and characteristics to get used to and become familiar with. So, pick what you know best, what you feel comfortable with and that which will lead to the least frustration, most fish and most enjoyment. Someday, I'll have grand kids, in all likelihood, I'll start them out of bait casters . . . and maybe even force them into using the unnatural right hand retrieve while being right handed kids!