jimanchower

@casts_by_fly would the horizontal rod holder work with the stern section mounted in the factory track mount? You wouldn't be able to easily reach the bungee but I'm curious if you mounted the rearmost section in an accessory track for another reason. Looks like maybe you have something else in that track at the stern. Any thoughts on the YakGadget horizontal rod holder compared to the Mariner Sails? Thanks for your input.

Can you expound on this? What's your rod holder setup? This is the main reason I went with the 120. Well, that and weight in terms of getting it on/off the water. One thing to note is that the rudder is the first thing to touch the front of the truck bed if you're loading the boat backwards, with the stern first. I just got my AP120 and haven't gotten it on the water yet, but I'm going to experiment with loading it bow first.

It's not perfectly rectangular but on my 120 at its widest it's about 25" and the narrowest part just before the [undeployed] rudder is just under 20". You could fit a 22" square crate behind the seat. The 136 is even bigger, of course.

@casts_by_fly you convinced me. I ordered the Helix 7 G4 MSI from Omnia. The "$50 off $200" code is still active, plus I'll get $70 in Omnia rewards, plus I had $50 in "Shop" cash. Takes the sting out of having to spend another $100 on an SD card. I have the YakAttack quick lock (FFP-1005) for my Garmin but I don't see a way to switch out just the plate, so I guess I'm in the market. I do like the quick release functionality but I also stand to fish most of the time. Is the Ram mount the way to go, then? edit: I'm going to have to upgrade from my 4.4ah Nocqua battery too, aren't I? edit2: ordered the YakAttack mount, Zero Lines SD card, and a 20ah Nocqua battery

I picked up an Old Town Autopilot 120 and I'm looking to upgrade from my Garmin Striker 4. Custom mapping is important to me, and I want to get the benefits of side imaging. A 7" screen seems like the sweet spot. I'd like to buy new, and I'm not married to one brand or another. A MSRP of $700-900 is doable so I have some left over for mounts and wiring. What's my best bet? Thanks!

I did. Sounds like it hasn't been communicated down the line yet. He did specify that the typical "definitely not discounted" stuff (Humminbird, Lowrance) still applies. For those putting their orders in, please let us know if Shimano/Daiwa/Loomis/Megabass get discounted after the fact. @ol'crickety you need to be signed up for their email list and click through to get in early on this one. I believe it'll be open to the public on 9/15.

I did. I should clarify, the discount shows up for "normal" stuff, and I don't expect it to be reflected in the cart for Loomis/MB/Shimano, but in the past those items are discounted when the order is confirmed/invoiced. The trick to see it ahead of time has always been to use Paypal checkout to get redirected to Paypal and see the total with the full discount reflected. That's not working for me this morning.

I have a Loomis rod in my cart and the 15% discount doesn't show up in the cart, but in the past you've been able to click through to Paypal checkout and see the discount reflected. That's not working for me now. The same was/is true for a Megabass rod and a Shimano reel that I tried. I'd be interested to know others' experiences with this sale on some of the "excluded but not excluded" items.

Lately I've been using a high-vis braid with a fluorocarbon leader, joined with an FG knot. This is my recipe to have confidence for bite detection. Nothing wrong with straight braid or straight fluoro. Gotta figure out what works for your circumstances and your style.

Why not 50# braid? Your leader would still break first, and you'd get better casting performance and line capacity. I'm playing devil's advocate but I'm curious because I'm looking at a similar scenario for my own setup(s).

Why do you use 80 over 65, or 65 over 50?

@FrnkNsteen I would think 30# braid would cut through vegetation better than 65# braid, right? It certainly cuts into my hands better.

I think braid makes a lot of sense for a lot of presentations. I use 30# as my go-to on baitcasters but I use 50# in some applications. If you use something with a 65# test of heavier, what's your #1 reason for doing so over, say, 40# or 50#? edit to clarify: I'm asking why you'd use braid with a diameter corresponding to 65+ pound test over braid with a smaller diameter

I'll probably start with a reel that I currently own, which will either be a '22 Bantam or a '22 Zillion TW HD. I'm going to run braid to a leader, and I'm not convinced that I need a bigger reel, but I'm sure I'll see. Maybe a Tatula 200 or 300 if I go that route. @Dye99 did I read that correctly that you're using an Aldebaran for smaller swimbaits?! I have a couple and really like them but that seems like quite a testament to what they can hold up to.

Thanks for the feedback, @Cabo31. I'd be interested to hear what you think on the water. Also curious what reel you're going to pair.

Anybody? I'm leaning towards the 965 because I don't need it to throw anything more than 4oz or so (soft baits or glides). I'm using a 7'7" Expride H/MF (1/2 - 2oz) for smaller stuff, so if the 966 is the deal for those 2-4oz baits maybe that's my best bet. Thanks.

@PhishLI the Shell Cracker is a Fish Catcher!

Looking for some input on what the sweet spot is for these in terms of lures. Is the 966 able to cast 2.5oz jig hook soft baits well? Is the 965 too soft for 4oz hard baits? Thanks for any input.

Thanks, @PhishLI. I've got a '22 Zillion TW HD with the 6.3:1 gears from a Zillion TW SV that I was thinking about using. I measure it at about 23 IPT. It may be too slow. I've also got a '22 Bantam HG on the way that may be a better fit. Guess I'll have to try both and see. I decided to hold off on the Shimano 190 SF and wait until the SS is available. In addition to the Shell Cracker I've got a couple of 5" Burritos (fast sink) on the way, and I'm looking real hard at the Gan Craft Jointed Claw 178...

I've been experimenting (happily) with all brake blocks engaged on my Shimano reels, with the external dial between 2 and 3. Spool tension set right about that point to either eliminate or have just a bit of play.

I took your advice and ordered a white and a ghost bluegill from SC. I've got a few other baits in my Tackle Warehouse cart. Waiting to see if they get discounted for Labor Day. What kind of reel speed do you guys like for these baits (in general; not just the Shell Cracker)? 6.x:1 / ~25 IPT too slow?

The 190SF is one that I had forgotten about. I'll definitely give one of those a go. Other baits on my radar: - Big Bite Baits B6 line-through - Mattlures Magnum Hardgill - 6.8" Keitech on a jig head - 7" Scottsboro paddletail on a jig head The rod was delivered today. It weighs in at only 4.85oz! It's also rated up to 2oz, not 1.5oz as listed on TW so that makes me a little more comfortable. Ordered up a Bantam HG to pair it with.

The TB guys preach about the Expride 7'7" Heavy / Moderate Fast as a great setup for A-rigs and swimbaits like the Bacca Burrito. I'm a big Expride fan who usually fishes from a kayak, and I've wanted to dip my toe into swimbaits, so I pulled the trigger on this rod. I've got the makings for an A-rig. I own a couple of Magdraft 6" and S-Waver 168s. I figure I'll pick up a Burrito and try it out. What are some other baits that can be thrown on this rod, and that are good for someone new to swimbait fishing? I'm a little wary of going north of 2oz on this rod that's rated up to 1.5oz but apparently Matt and Tim are throwing A-rigs that are pushing 3oz.

@softwateronly and others, I've got one of these on the way. How heavy of a bait can it throw, assuming we're talking about lob casting? I know the TB guys like it for A-rigs and if I'm doing my math right we're talking about 2.75oz and up. I'm also looking at trying the 5" Bacca Burrito and maybe a 6" Huddleston as a way of dipping my toe into soft swimbait fishing. Can it handle 2-3oz swimbaits?

That's something that you'll have to judge for yourself. At this price point it's a matter of how it feels in your hand and the manufacturer's ethos when it comes to making rods. And warranty.