Emiliano

@road warrior @DINK WHISPERER thank you to both, found last Zodias available here, it's a 7'2 M, for 160 shipping cost included I think it's a good deal.

Very funny man! Pesetas disappeared in '99 and I hate sangria! Just to be clear. Thanks for your kind suggestion

Hi guys, I need some good suggestions about a decent budget/backup sensitive bottom contact rod for light jig/worm application. I usually fish in highland reservoirs with clear water with rocky bottom and some tree and brush piles but very few heavy cover spots. Fishing depth in 10 to 30 feet. Just finished to upgrade my boat with new front unit and a new trolling motor, so no much money to spend in a new rod. I'm looking for a a light jig and worm casting rod for 1/2 at max to use with 12 to 14 lbs line. The rods I can afford and get here in EU are the following ones: Discontinued 2018 Loomis E6X 843, 844mbr, 853 and 854jwr for 170. I read a lot of reviews about them and can't figure out what is the best one for the use I need. Some loves MBR and some prefers JWR flex for b.contact. The new Shimano curado 7'2 M and MH for 135 I would like to try the Dobyns Kaden but no way I'll pay 260 for a rod that in US has the same price of Sierra line that I can consider in 703 or 733model. For +50 I can get the Champ.Xtreme St Croix Mojo that I owned in 7'1 MH felt mushy and not sensitive at all, so I sold it. I hope to have some suggestions from you guys, thanks in advance!

I use visions oneten JDM most of the time, they used to suspend perfectly out of the package but recently the new colours don't, so I always change the split ring on the front with a big size because usually they tend to rise too fast. I'm a MB fan, the action and the colour and details are unique but depending on the finishes (PM, GG, HT,.....) some suspend perfectly and som rise. I was impressed by the cheaper LCraft flash pointer 100, 115 an the Staysee 90, with these I always change the trebles with Owner ST36 because the stock ones are terrible but for my surprise they suspend incredibly well. But Oneten is still "The Jerkbait"

I've read articles and seen in YouTube that TX is still producing good quality fish offshore

I found the E.Shiner as more body rolling action/side to side movement compared to the fat impact and a subtle wider wobbling. Thinner body and no ribs shines in vegetation because it can slide better than fat impact IMO.

blade baits, little lipless and tiny squarebill 1/4 - 3/8 oz

Keitech swing impact fat 3'.8" , Easy shiner 4', OSP Dolive shad 3'.5" - 4' 90% of the time paired with Owner twist lock Flashy Swimmer 3/16oz 3/0 hook

? unless you have 500+yds of line in a very narrow spool or you are casting miles away it doesn't affect too much your drag setting, period. I used to fly fishing in salt water for tarpon in my trips and tuna in my home country and I can tell you it doesn't matter too much, if it does it's something really subtle in a 100-200 baitcasting size reel

Hi guys, I'm waiting the restock of the Bellows Gill by Geecrack from the Japan store I usually buy from. Never used it before but I've seen a lot of videos where that bait appears really really soft with an interesting look and action. It comes in different colors and for what I've heard it smells terrible so maybe it's not a good idea to open the bag inside the house. Anybody out there is using that bait? Any feedback about its effectiveness? Thanks in advance

I suppose that Duo weight transfer system is similar to that one used by MB in some crank and jerk called LBO and first time I throw them I experienced the same "s#%!" I broke the tip! If not engaged you'll see the bait spinning on the air during the cast losing accuracy more than distance

I use jerkbaits all year long . When most are using finesse techniques during the hottest months I use jerks as I do in winter (slow retrieve - long pauses) but near cover and that saved me a lot of day. I agree that they are effective in murky water as well, just changing the profile and colour accordingly to the conditions.

I think no need to lock the thread @TnRiver46 we are just sharing infos and I only asked why some didn't use drag if reels are made and designed to cast, retrieve and "figth" the fish with all the tech available nowadays, and quality reel drag is a main factor in the reel price as well IMO As I said in my post everyone has own techniques and methods and is more confident in something other don't, that's it

I follow the Randy Blaukat YouTube channel and recently he talked about how to fight the fish properly by relying on pushing the thumb bar and apply pressure on the spool by thumbing in order to react to fish runs, so he has the drag set to max I guess. I know most anglers and Pro as well rely on that technique, but why? By clicking the thumb bar the spool remains engaged/blocked for a fraction (a second or less for ex) and that can stop the fish surge unless you follow the fish movement and that can be a problem if you don't react instantly. Reel drag exists for a reason and I rely on that plus the rod flex to fight the fish accordingly to line lbs test and type of hook I'm using. I prefer to set the drag a bit looser (let's say than normal) and than control de pressure of the spool by thumbing if needed, ...unless I'm flipping or punching obviously. I always set the hook while I'm thumbing the spool and I never had any issues by doing that, but that is my style and I know everyone is different. But I'm open minded and I would like to know what's the advantage by using the thumb bar and not the drag.

I'm putting that on your thread @ATA

Hi guys, I follow the Randy Blaukat YouTube channel and recently he talked about how to fight the fish properly by relying on pushing the thumb bar and apply pressure on the spool by thumbing in order to react to fish runs, so he has the drag set to max I guess. I know most anglers and Pro as well rely on that technique, but why? By clicking the thumb bar the spool remains engaged/blocked for a fraction (a second or less for ex) and that can stop the fish surge unless you follow the fish movement and that can be a problem if you don't react instantly. Reel drag exists for a reason and I rely on that plus the rod flex to fight the fish accordingly to line lbs test and type of hook I'm using. I prefer to set the drag a bit looser (let's say than normal) and than control de pressure of the spool by thumbing if needed, ...unless I'm flipping or punching obviously. I always set the hook while I'm thumbing the spool and I never had any issues by doing that, but that is my style and I know everyone is different. But I'm open minded and I would like to know what's the advantage by using the thumb bar and not the drag.

I usually go to very thin braid (8lbs-0,005inch) for jerkbaits, it lets the bait suspend perfectly. Braid offers no coils and stretch and so it allows to stay in contact more efficiently with the bait compared to mono.

It depends... silent it's a good option when there is a lot of fishing pressure but rattle ones are great in muddy water and in summer IMO.

Strike King 5XD silent version if you want a wide wobble. I'm really impressed by the action and paint design of the Jackall Digle, I bought some in +2 and +3 from Japan, it's a silent crank with tight action and deflects really well. The +3 , depending on the line you use, it can run 12 to 14 feet deep and the +2 around 10 to 12. Good hardware out of the box, no need to change treble, I found it works great

Yes, Randy always talks about that for every soft plastic lure and jig as well, I love his channel. I think that "roughing" works well for some type of plastic with too much translucent touch when new (ex Zoom). In general my motto is the less you touch the bait the better fish will bite

Since there are a lot of variables involved, water temp, water clarity, wind, depth and type of lures, plastic vs hard ones.....I will say everything that is not a ghost/see through one

I agree with the above post, try deep jerkbaits (LC staysee 90, MB 110 +2 or +3 .....) and fine tune with your cadence or go with little blade baits or lipless with yo-yo retrieve

7'

both rod and reel have to play together and have to be fine tuned, another thing to consider it's that you have to spend more money for a fine BFS casting combo than a spinning one to throw the same lures. @mheichelbech you don't like video as much as articles, that's fine but few days ago Hook Up Tackle YouTube channel released a video about BFS gear that I suggest to watch since it's a good introduction to the BFS world.

BFS casting is the new "frontier" born in Japan mainly for fishing trout in small creeks and than applied to bass fishing. I think BFS is like a style of fishing and no real advantage vs spinning but some reports more casting accuracy vs spinning. The main advantage I can see using BFS reels it's that under pressure, I mean during the fight, the line will be realised from the spool with less friction and smoother than the 90° angle of spinning ones.