bulldog1935

that's the safety notch on my mag brake or, go to my CT, which is almost difficult to cast 1/4 oz under 150' - I put this in my neighbor's back acre too often to cast it in mine.

for me, it's easy. This will cast 3/8 oz to 130' this will cast 1/4 oz to 130' (the range of this outfit lets me fish 1/8 oz to over 1 oz) this will cast 1/8 oz to 130' (the range of this outfit lets me fish 1/16 oz to 1/2 oz, but the reel's still good to a full ounce) this will cast 1/16 oz to 130' (this is pretty much a 2- to 10-g setup) I most often don't need to fish 130', but having the ability to cast that far means less effort and better thumb control to put it where I need it.

can't count how many Falcon rods my dad stepped on, and I replaced his next birthday or Christmas. And his boat even has rod holders on the rails, console, gunwhales...

about 15 years ago, the Japanese were collecting and buying these up, along with Fenglas Lunkerstik and Phillipson Bass Slayer. Any of these rods then would bring $600 selling to Japan. Of course, they're fickle, and don't collect these any more.

For paddling, I love my Kokatat - it can be a little tough to remove if you'e wearing weather layers.

One thing to keep in mind is many reels at that price point won't have main bearings, with their main gears instead riding on plastic "bushings" that are part of the plastic side plates - this includes Shimano and Penn. Don't be fooled by new-box-smooth. Any reel that includes a main bearing at this price point is a step up in service life. Here's a Tica Samira $50 loss leader on Amazon 10 ball bearings and worm drive. Capacity is just right for 10-lb mono/fluoro, great line management, ball-bearing line roller. (I like Tica's line roller better than Stella's) Optional anti-reverse and instant roller-bearing clutch. SAMIRA-SAAT – Tica Fishing Tackle (ticaamerica.com) Tica started up with offshore conventional reels in 1960 - their reels are built to last, and they build a good portion of Daiwa's reels. Note it will feel a little stiff out of the box and will run in by the time you spool it.

I'd be giving away too many nice parts - - not to mention karma.

I have another good report on Lew's Dallas Service Center. Just got off the phone. First off, they are Not taking parts orders, as reported. However, they Do want to help. My oldest Super Duty G, four years in the salt, is showing rusting on the brake magnets. (ordered new Ray's Studio magnets through Ali Express) Spool bearings, handle bearings, no worries here, because none are original, and all are salt rated. Plus, I keep my unshielded spool bearings flushed with fresh oil. There are only four original bearings in the reel - worm shaft (x2), main drive shaft, and roller bearing (clutch). Especially the worm shaft and roller bearing - the possible condition of these tax me. The lady on the phone tracked down all four bearing sizes for me, so now I can order salt-resistant (HRCB) replacements (without taking it apart first to measure).

I use the 6' Master Lock cable lock + 10' Master Lock looped cable. works at the dock and also on the truck bed extender Removing the boat is simple - undo the cable lock (and the cam straps). Close the cable lock, and the bed extender is part of the truck. they don't really make an affordable Kryptonite lock for this application. While a powered cut-off makes short work of cable lock - you'll hear it even from a hotel room - it still takes half a day to chew through the cable with bolt cutters.

or Sufix 832 is really well-behaved on baitcaster - 20-lb Sufix might work fine. Use the Pattaya calculator to compare capacities with different line diameters.

gambling is a euphemism. Tying up your money and getting yourself into a long-term refund dispute is more accurate. Recently ordered some IXA spool bearings though my Japan broker (can't get them any other way). At the same time, asked him to order some MTCW (metal, not plastic) drag plate-knobs from a half price "closeout" listing (they increase direct drag contact by 20% and double click-adjustment detentes). He replied the site was bogus. I thanked Masamichi for the information, and lived without the parts. I didn't buy a surf rod I badly wanted from a website that had a really good presentation of their "brick and mortar" tackle store in Singapore. However, found a sister site in China with the same inventory list, prices and nothing to support they were real (alpha and beta versions). When the "brick" site didn't reply to my shipping query e-mails, I knew they were both bogus. Similar bogus seller examples always come up on Ali Express discussions on the rods and lines page. However, in the case of Ali Express, they don't apply. This is because Ali works like Amazon and will automatically refund you if they either don't get to Ali warehouse on time, or you don't receive them on time.

hey, you called me - think it has nothing to do with the fact they're using different line diameters for lb-test? That's everything. only in the US do manufacturers report in test - the rest of the world thinks in diameter (mm) The Japanese list their lines by diameter (first by gou#) - they then report Maximum breaking strength. In the US, everyone does everything by lb-test - Minimum breaking strength. You have to hunt to find diameter and then guess what's right. A reel that's aimed for US market may follow suite - and may not. And you're trying to equate two different manufacturers. My Yumeya F-spools are rated in (max) fluoro breaking, as is ZPI Alcance bait spool. The equivalent diameter is always smaller than nylon mono test, which again, I like, because I'm not using big mono. (The balance of Yumeya spools are rated in gou-meters, e.g. 1520 spool = PE#1.5, 200 m)

you might want to jack it up and put a bigger reel underneath - or back with braid - Allbright knot joint is best for getting through line guides. I use this Tica 150 for offshore jigging - 300 yds braid backing, 50 yds Blue Label on top. Plenty light on the lightweight spiral-wrapped rod with a cheap carbon handle (ok, and a nice titanium knob). If I did more of this, I'd probably have a Conquest...

@TnRiver46 - never been in a cypress branch I couldn't reach and cut with my pocket knife. Russian River Ferry landing - it's always combat fishing during a sockeye run. I'm fishing for rainbows and dollies below the cleaning stand - they'll impale themselves on a bare red Gami hook there. If you can fall in the river, you can catch fish in Alaska. My buddy flew up and met me, and I'm letting him get his fill of sockeye the first afternoon. We stayed at Gwinn's in Cooper. One day floating for kings, and the other 2 days, guided him up the Russian and on Kenai creeks.

Not all fluoro is created equal. Blasting out the door on an Alaska business trip, had to buy tippet on the way to the airport. Rio hard fluoro was all they had. Broke off three 30+" Kenai rainbows on my surgeon's knots. Nothing but Seaguar ever since. Have never broken fluoro since - not entirely saying it's the Seaguar, but why use Palomar knot, anyway (rhetorical). (I have broken braid on snook and redfish) The whole purpose of uni knot aka Duncan loop for lure to fluoro is to have the shock tolerance of collapsing the loop. btw, Alaska clients expect you to play when the work is done - if you don't have a plan, they get PO'd - I bought you a ticket up here, etc.

I've been repairing and restoring OP's antique reels as a hobby business for a couple of decades. I always work in a shoebox to catch the tiny parts They still get away - always on the hard floor, never on carpet... A bicycle headlight is the tool for me to find them.

@redmeansdistortion I know the reel - you might want to visit this page on FFR forum - you were talking about glass rods. The Daiwa Tournament was enlarged into the surf reel sold in most of Europe over those same 35 years. Daiwa has very different subsidiaries on different continents - different products, different parts support, different manufacturers - Tica makes a bunch of Daiwa's reels.

Others - not just me - have noted Japan mono and fluoro are rated by max breaking strength, and the Japanese still rate them by gou# - diameter is most important. Since I'm mostly fishing X-braid on JDM reels - and if I'm fishing fluoro, it's probably bought in Japan, too (Toray, Kuhrea Seaguar) - I'm totally happy with their line ratings - they make a lot of sense. Here's part of the table again from JP Tackle News (link to the long table)

I've been watching some Yamaga Blanks videos. His rods sell out the day they're listed - he can fish whatever he chooses. On long small game rods, he's totally happy with a raced-out Abu BFS reel - he's throwing lures up to about 1/2 oz. He goes to Daiwa SV on MH equally long shore game rods, throwing 1-1/2-oz 6" plugs. If you Understand braking systems without making brand-biased generalizations, his choices make perfect sense. I still can't explain why Lew's Super Duty with its deep heavy spool casts 1/8 oz just as far as my raced-out Daiwa SV, but it does. The Daiwa with the stock spool won't compete with it. BTW, even my ZPI bench-raced Abu with 7-g spool has spool bearings improved from ZPI shielded to IXA unshielded "micros" (they're more like midi's), and they make a noted improvement. That's also a factor in the performance of my Super Duty. ps - the light weight of the Alcance is impressive - same as my magnesium Steez SV TW. this remains the $100 spinning reel that's begging for you to try to out-class it - over and over. People hung up on Shimano new-box-smooth won't get it, but it will outlast every Shimano below Stradic, and has comparable line management with their simpler improved locomotive drive.

and now for something completely different

After all this time, there's a very good chance the drag washers and spacers have just worn to ineffective thickness. you can find a reel schematic here

@galyonj Glad you found the segue I left for you - of course it was the size of a C-5 Galaxy. I left a couple for Dr. Freud, as well. Gotta wonder how many rods our OP had to sort through in the sum of the crappie pile to find the one cost-effective jewel. Yes, the math equivalence raises its ugly head again.

that becomes correct if you change Many to All (the chips on shoulders are beyond transparent) Who is this Ned guy, anyway, and why in fishing are old fishing techniques suddenly new and techy when someone attaches his name to it? Stick bait + jighead. In fly fishing it was Lieserling Lift - gee, ya think that swings? People were building finesse spinning rods from fly rod tapers on every shore before WWII. The reels were a little funky

Their service and coupons went Way Down (and prices up) when they sold and franchised. But still always worth the effort to check their stock. I have a couple of $450-550 retail Italian field jacket and Marmot gortex-III light techy shell that cost me $110-130 delivered, but that was before they sold the company. A pair of $1000 Italian lawyer shoes that cost me $200 (I wear them to meetings with attys). The place to buy 400-thread-count sheets, etc. (make your wife happy). They also used to refund Any return in any condition, after any length of time. The original owner prided himself in a worn-out pair of returned running shoes displayed in his office bookcase. I even took 18 months to return a pair of Ariat ropers that didn't quite fit and received full refund. I was buying something on the phone, mentioned them, the phone lady gave me full credit on the spot and sent will-call return shipping for the ropers with my new order. They don't work that way now, but still hunt quality items with good discount.

clearly the sarcasm of inexperience. FedEx from Japan delivers faster than all domestic-US shipping. 54 hours good enough for you? maybe they're using time-warp? The same reel that casts 1/16 oz can cast over 1 oz without any adjustment. Heavy is easy.