bulldog1935

That's the exact brake that was on the Custom Inshore I donated to my bro, Lou. And of course, the one I never photographed. Kinda funny, explaining that brake to him is the part I edited out of my first post on this thread. I had it in 1/8 oz niche, and set up an SP to do better in that spot. (searching Lew's spools is what brought me to this forum) It's a really good brake combination for big weights - the niche where I'd never replace my Super Duty (except maybe for a new G3, or maybe a Daiwa SV).

Lew's centrifugal brake

I always start high and dial down until I get the incipient wind backlash, then take that last notch back. My reel is in a 1/4- and 3/8-oz niche, and usually stays set about 50% On overhead casts, you might be surprised by how you can improve simply thinking aim up.

good linear mag brake is king for long casts and eliminating wind backlash. When you get that incipient mid-cast backlash, you solve it by adding one click of mag brake. This is my oldest ,longest-service, and longest-casting LP baitcaster, Super Duty G

it is definitely possible to cast too hard, and with too much jerk. I wrote this for a buddy last week, and edited here for context: A cast is a ballistic shot - the fastest thing that happens is the lure and spool at release of the lure, and everything slows from there. Backlash occurs when the spool doesn't slow with the bait and line. Every 20% increase in initial velocity doubles cast distance. When a baitcaster spool starts up, it is always jerked by the lure weight. Jerk is a physics/engineering measurement - the time-derivative of acceleration, 2nd time derivative of velocity. Inertia is a property of rotating mass - resistance to change. It always takes greater force to start a mass spinning than it does to keep it spinning. Once it's spinning, greater mass and inertia takes more brake force to slow down. The first backlash is Spool Overshoot, caused by the jerk of the bait and inertia of the spool and line mass. Heavier weights increase the start-up jerk. Lighter weights decrease the jerk, but spool mass and inertia limits how far you can cast light weights. When your cast is approaching its highest vertical point - the apogee - gravity is slowing it. Here, it's most susceptible to wind, and the second backlash is called Wind Backlash. Often, mid-cast on long casts, the spool will "get fuzzy" with incipient wind backlash, then as the bait crosses apogee and gravity accelerates it a bit, the pending backlash will self-correct. (One more notch of linear brake here will eliminate that wind backlash.) The 3rd backlash is really simple - when the lure hits, the spool needs to stop. _______________________ There are four types of baitcaster brakes. Real world casting is usually a nonlinear mix of 2 or more of these brakes. Your thumb on the spool is a nonlinear force that you modulate - the longest possible cast uses only thumb for brakes. Spool end tension is a constant force on the spool. You can overcome all 3 types of backlash with spool tension, and get the shortest possible cast result. In general, the less spool tension you use, the longer your cast. With good spool brakes and skills, you only adjust the spindle tension to dial-out side play in the spool. Mag brakes are linear - that is, the force they exert increases with spool speed in a straight line. The slope of the line is controlled by the distance from magnets to any conductive metal (Lenz effect), and brake dials on reel palm plate set this distance. Their best effect is against wind backlash, and can get the longest possible casts with the lightest lures. Centrifugal brakes are nonlinear. They exert a centrifugal force on the spool, respond to acceleration and jerk, and their best effect is limiting start-up overshoot. When you get into Daiwa SV, that's a non-linear mag brake. Acceleration and jerk causes the brake rotor to ride a ramp outward, and deeper into the magnet field. When forces equalize on the spool and brake rotor, a spring retracts the rotor, and the mag force reduces and returns to linear. From what I've heard, even DC brakes will backlash if you cast with too much jerk.

bro, the microcast spool capacity is right there at the end of the listing I copied above and first linked: 0.31 mm - 90 m (US 12-lb mono - 100 yds) In 50-lb Sufix 832 that's 75 meters = 83 yards.

that was already addressed above, but I'm not sure why you'd need a quarter-mile of 50-lb braid to bomb frogs. is 80 yds of 50-lb not enough? And again, if you switch to X-braid, the microcast spool capacity is 150 yds 50-lb.

I would say yes, I'm using the Abu 6500 version in the surf for bull reds, and casting 2-oz spider weights. The Avail spools won't be compromised like the much lighter Roro and Ray's Studio spools.

My buddy Steve retired one day on the flats with a new Revo side plate letting go mid-cast (and a spool shim issue on his IRT spinning reel). It became the deciding factor when I didn't buy a JDM Revo LX992Z Japan Finesse Special, and instead bought my first Daiwa in over 40 years

The purpose of the microcast spool is to limit capacity, mass, and inertia, and with it, backlash. The added bonus is improved cast distance and reliability, which is reduced cast effort, over a wider lure weight range. I hope this thing is on @jimmyjoe Our friend asked for a new reel that's better for braid and fits the comfort of his old reel. How about improving the old reel that's already comfortable Noisy 50-lb braid is not going to improve by switching to random 65-lb braid (that was certainly a vasoline number). If you're not after tuna, I don't get the choice to fish more than 20-lb 832 braid - unless you're simply trying to fill a big, deep spool. Better braids are more than twice the test of 832 for the same diameter - and 832 is good braid, with good manners. The 90 m 0.31-mm-diameter line capacity that the microcast spool is rated gives many better braid options than the deeper and greater capacity stock spool. One can compare those line diameters on this excellent line capacity calculator. And if you want to take the simple approach, fitting for the purpose of this reply @new2BC4bass the 100 yds 0.31 mm braid would be 40-lb test Sufix 832. The two together would improve our OP's splight - quieter braid and the ability to cast a wider lure range farther with less effort and less backlash.

@jimmyjoe upgrade your Curado spool with a 10-g Avail microcast spool Ultra light tuning spool for 2014 Scorpion 200, Curado 200i, 15Curado 200 JDM, Citica 200. With this spool you may cast from 5g 3/16oz without effort. Please use SVS Infiniti brake holder from original spool, and Avail SVS puller 4 white, listed at the end of spool section, is helpful to remove SVS. Spool weight 9.9g(Scorpion genuine 14.2g) 0.31mm(US12lb)-90m(100yds)

In every way the old Millionaire 6H is a clone of an Abu 6500. The fun part is the bull reds I caught in the surf with it. When they take your bait and you set the hook, their reaction sends a shock wave that goes all the way down and back up your spine. The ones I didn't catch either spooled me or straightened out 60-lb swivels with the clasp pinched with pliers. Surf fishing at night is manly sport. . You won't get the advantage of a large diameter spool until you cast one. They still make great parts for sexing out these old reels. This spool is 5 mm deep, the same weight as a Daiwa G1 spool, and holds 200 yds braid. I promise this reel will double the cast distance of any reel you own, especially with 1/4 oz. you would be amazed how far this Talbot from 1914 will cast. Even without free spool, it would out-cast everything until ball-bearing Abu CT (above) Meek No. 3 and Talbot are what every tournament distance caster used until the advent of Abu CT ball bearing spool - and some continued with the 60-y-o Meek and Talbot. If you really want to get good with your new baitcaster, learn to use one of these. this diminutive prewar Shakespeare freespool is the original BFS reel, and will fish 1/8 oz

Daiwa Millionaire 6H in 1978 It started on a 6' Fenglas Lunkerstik, and later swapped between a 7-1/2' Browning Hi-Power for inshore and surf (my first graphite rod). I was making spiral and pendulum casts with weightless rigs a few years later, But the surf killed the nickeled-brass worm gear, and Daiwa wouldn't support it with parts in 1984. I bought my first Lew's, BB-1NG, and didn't look back. I bought my next Daiwa just this year.

well, no, to the former, and yes, the SGN lever drag is great for jigging. As a teenager worm fishing, always preferred b/c, too - just feels more directly connected. Here's my main offshore jigging reel, also doubles up for a 2nd trolling rod (there's 300 yds braid under there, too). This rod is spiral-wrap Jigging World Nexus.

That's the SGN - holds a bit over 400 yds 30-lb Seaguar braid, and I have it topped with 25-yds 30-lb Blue label fluoro. My rod is TackleDirect house-brand Platinum, 7' e-glass, rated 20-50 lbs. Their house brand are all very well made rods. Also have their 15-30-lb e-glass offshore spinner for throwing topwater plugs, and my 3-pc back-up inshore is their Silver spinner, IM6.

not sure I want to know, but it's modest compared to many I regularly fish between 4 baitcasters, the reels swapped between niche rods, and 8 spinning reels, and most of the spinners are UL for our standing winter night fishing trips, where rigged change-up is a big advantage. Fly tackle is where it gets busy, but most of that has been paid by speculating well and antique reel repair hobby business. When I was younger, I fished fewer, and trips to the surf would use my inshore tackle, and I fished through reels by outclassing them. I love tinkering tackle and building great rigs - here's my surf lure rig, a pair of custom Abu CT's I tinkered - this will cast 1/4 oz an honest 100 yds. Since I'm not too many years from retiring, I'll get there well-armed.

here's my surf spiinner - has a 76-mm dia spool and 46 mm stroke but my little offshore lever drag has 3x the drag - the drag and the multiplier is the only mechanism in this reel

good manual bail technique is nearly the same thing as thumbing a baitcaster, but not quite. My new b/c small game rig casts lighter lures farther and more daring into the far grass than the spinning small game rig I had in this niche. (3 g vs. 5 g) @Bass_Fishing_Socal break in the rain here, got the back acre mowed late yesterday, and we're a couple of hours from 24 hours of flash flooding. But from that window, I just stepped inside from first cast on the 6'7" Valleyhill rod. Took me a couple of casts to get aiming the short rod after fishing the 8'2" rod last week. But I duplicated 3-in-a-row 100' casts with 2-g jighead, so it's mostly in the reel, great mag brake and the 6-g spool.

Spinning advantages are light lures and casting without lure-cast visibility (night fishing) Can't get the accuracy or instant retrieve with spinning though easier to learn to use than baitcasting I just recently set up and fished a b/c that reliably casts 1/16 oz to 100'... but for daytime use. And yes, it was intentionally spendy...

here's the place to get the answer, the NLFCC public forum

if you catch and release, all those knots and hard line aren't good to the fish. Your net will scratch through their protective slime coating, through their scales, and into their skin to cause infection. You can buy nice replacement bags, rubber, or knotless and rubber coated, that will fit just about any net frame. then if you want to get salty with twine, work on your net bag lacing or rope-end seizing If you're making a wall decoration, knock your lights out, as they say. but I'd still use good sailmaking twine rather than fishing line. ahoy.

I that really bothers you, set the hook with thumb on b/c spool, or index finger on spinning spool. I do this when fishing Trout Support Lure, because getting a solid hook set is important on the big swimbait hook.

tell me you bought a boat - - never mind, pretty house, though My buddy married into a very nice uptown house, so when he sold his house, he built this with it... we call it the man cathedral. there's a modeling machine shop in the far end. He also loans it for traveling RV repairs. He worked on the house, also, combining the dining room and great room into a billiards room, gutted the kitchen and breakfast nook for a chef's kitchen.

we always like the kayaking and company as priority, and fish are gravy.

well that's certainly misquoting me out of context I promise I'll never do that to you. If you want something to worry, it's brown recluse. I passed out riding a bicycle one day, woke up in the hospital, and I believe it's because of a brown recluse bite I found on my arm. In a year of monitoring, a cardiologist couldn't duplicate the skipped heartbeats found in the hospital - he finally told me to go away. Same thing happened to a friend just weeks ago. First qualification of humor is that it be humorous.