bulldog1935

In Shimano worm-drive reels, Stradic to Stella, within the 3 frame sizes share common pitch and always swap spools - also within the same series;, i.e., '18-'22; followed by '22-Stella-on. All my Shimano spinners are '18 Stella series, and I have at least one spare spool for each frame size. (a few more for salt finesse, night fishing, and quick change for a busted leader) The C3000MHG Twin Power is wearing a shallow C3000S Vanquish spool, which lets me fish PE#0.6 on a long salty finesse rod. The stock C3000MHG spool is 150-m PE#1.2 https://www.hedgehog-studio.com/page/633

Waiting a year for parts seems odd. My first thought is always check plat.co.jp Repair parts is one of their best things. Throw in a few lures with your parts order. I always check their Garage Sale. I found most of these lures there.

No question T-wing reduces line friction coming off the spool - it reduces the total line contact to about 10% of a round line guide. If you're looking for a distance edge, it's one of those last-word features like microbearings. How could anyone not dig a falling line guide.

I'm not Daiwa CA - you can call them - but I did read somewhere that spare spools weren't available. The TT thread is on page 5 now, you check there. http://www.tackletour.net/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=90959&start=15

While that's a nice link, Daiwa hasn't made RCS spools for '24 Steez. Avail made an aftermarket BFS spool, but all sold out (for now). https://www.hedgehog-studio.com/product/30314 You can get one through this Plat.co.jp link, p/n 34 https://www.plat.co.jp/shop/catalog/partsorder.php?products_id=6292 JY16720 is $115, plus another $30 for courier. Plat orders parts on only one week day, so could take a week for them to ship.

@F14A-B If you compare sizes, another set of the Daiwa bushings might swap into your Tatula. And you never know, Gold Works may be making the Daiwa bushings...

@F14A-B They haven't gotten there - GoldWorks currently, only offers bushings for bushing Ambassadeur (non-C), Ambassadeur C3 and current 21/23 Antares. The point is bushings made correctly work extremely well - and it probably takes more detail and development to make bushings work that well, compared to nominal-sized ball bearings.

I'll put my GoldWorks skeleton bushings in 5000D up against any full-sized spool bearing. I set the mag brake casting 1/8 oz. "Feature 2" Slitting Special slitting is applied to the inside of the bushing, significantly reducing the coefficient of friction where the shaft and bush meet. As a by-product, oil penetrates the slits, dramatically improving oil retention. "Feature 3" 4-Layer Coating After slitting, a four-layer special coating is applied in a separate process to repair any unevenness on the metal surface immediately after machining and improve self-lubrication. Quantity: 2 Material: Brass Specifications: For Old Abu models only (Bushing-equipped models only) Here's the 1040 version they make to swap into Ambassadeur C3 and Antares They report the outer ring as PEEK plastic. "Feature 3" Inner Diameter Designed for Each Manufacturer (Model) This product has a fairly tight fit, so the inner diameter varies by manufacturer (model). We test it on various actual equipment, install it, and thoroughly test it ourselves. We list the verified model names and manufacturers as compatible models.

On topic, deep-dolomite-slot hybrid smallie teased up by cats whisker high-sticked on Teeny line. The rod is South Bend, the reel, 1925 Ogden Smiths Exchequer. This older reel is from Bampton, a WH Dingley perfect with collared thrust bearing on the winding plate. In 1925, JW Young of Redditch also introduced their pattern 2a, and in 1935, OS Exchequer was replaced by the "Improved Pattern" Young reel - with a gang of internal modifications. Three OS Exchequers, 1947 postwar Young, 1935 Young, 1925 Dingley. There's a great spy story behind the 1935 Exchequer and JW Young Mayfield Works. This is the 1947 Exchequer, but internally a copy of the 1935 version - palming rim, friction drag, optional click-pawl (i.e., can be disengaged), spool bearings - the modern fly reel in 1935. It would work better with a thrust bearing, but that wasn't its purpose. England began re-arming in preparation for the war in 1934, devised the system of Shadow Factories in 1935, where established factories added a line of armaments production, working with oversight by Military Intelligence. England began their Aircraft Directive in 1936. Sometime after 1934, Young Mayfield Works was surreptitiously making aircraft control system parts for Hurricane and later Spitfire fighters. Ogden Smiths Exchequer Improved Pattern was designed using Hoffmann aircraft control system ball bearings to mask the boxes of bearings that were being delivered to the Mayfield Works well before the war began. About the bearings - ball bearings were patented in Germany by Hoffmann before WWI. They built plants in US and England. In WWI, both countries nationalized the plants, creating Norma-Hoffmann in US.

I know for Stradic, USM 1000 is JDM 2000. JDM 1000 Stradic is smaller 40-mm spool diameter - same frame, same pitch. This is Vanquish 2000 and JDM Stradic 1000 Here's USM Vanford FA C2000 is small frame; 2500 and C3000 are medium frame; 4000 and 5000 are large frame. 500 is not worm drive, but locomotive-drive JDM Soare 500 with Vanford markings. Here's JDM Vanford with spool diameters listed - looks like they discontinued JDM Soare and made the micron-frame locomotive drive Vanford. (this list is abridged, there are 7 more larger JDM models that req'd scrolling the table)

It's kinda antithesis for ORCA Reel Geezer to write about Curado. If you want to see the most valuable reel collection on the planet, here's Ron Gast: https://www.luresnreels.com/ This will get you started https://www.luresnreels.com/mmilam.html The screws were numbered because they were all lathe-single-turn and matched to the screw holes. you also might like this BR thread

try this link - https://www.ebay.com/itm/226944308543 - you never need anything past the first ? - the ? and everything that follows is related to your specific user infomation. Phil White https://reeltalk.orcaonline.org/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=12 Last active: Sun Aug 31, 2025 4:28 pm Phil is probably better known for his effort and books about Meisselbach: He used to maintain a really wonderful interactive website about Many antique reel brands.

Thanks Tom - here's the 330 Lurecast And here it is on my bench after vinegar bath, bushing/spindle metal polish, and solvent bath.

@F14A-B When I fished on TV with Frank Smethurst (and my buddy Jimbo) he called our tailwater rainbows Guadalupe Steelhead. Skittering a sofa pillow to work up a feeding frenzy - off-frame to the right behind Jimbo are Frank, videographer and producer - did learn some cool tricks from Frank over 3 days, including Otter's milking eggs - when you absolutely, positively need to catch a fish right now The para woolley booger rod in post above was built by my buddy Floyd Burkette - he scaled a Wayne Cattanach taper from 4-wt to 5-wt, and traded me a $1000 custom rod for a $500 reel he wanted. This is original 1918 FE Thomas light-ferrule Special - - the photo, we're gonna need a bigger net segue to topic - the reel is Young pattern 15a imported as Varden by Lyon & Coulson - the reel was also imported and sold as the Thomas Special Fly Reel There's a lost generation of new, boxed 1940 reels out there. Bought by or given as gifts to heros of WWII, never used, squirreled away for a generation, then put on the market. Another responsibility to honor them, by taking them fishing.

A 1917 Hardy St. George is a responsibility - something like a curator - - even if you make $600 profit by fishing it for four years.

@redmeansdistortion - thanks for posting nice reels. My two scratch reels are both CT surf/tournament reels in BFS mod. 4500CT built on Zzeta + Avail parts, goal is surf metal microjig matched with 8'9" Abu shore microjig rod. Stainless 6.3 Mannfish gears from UK. and 2500CIT built on Zzeta frame, for shore salt finesse to match two 8' rods, a multipiece for bike-only tide barriers, and a better 2-pc rod for kayak transit. This reel has Simon's bad-boy brass gearing w/ even badder-boy pinion. In April, it was casting 1/4-oz plug 200', but a half-dozen dolphins arrived when the tide began to swing and the fish had just turned on, shutting us down. Speaking of better rod, PureLure Seabed was hooking fish at 180'. It's ok, the two-hour drift home was killer flats fishing, with a spec limit, a half-dozen reds, and killer camp meal of grilled fish tacos.

I bet this thread doesn't need an editor. Nylon gears were never a good idea - I fished through my Mitchell 300 in 4 years of HS catching Spanish macks from the jetties. Avail's part is PET, not nylon, giving better wear and brinnelling resistance. How you gonna brinnell a worm-gear driver, anyway - what giant crushing load are you going to put on a LW (w/ 4 ball bearings).

Shedding 3 oz from small-frame Ambassadeur. 1500C bought from Don Iovino - he had already made the Avail worm-gear modification, and it was cool to get his signature on the tailplate. I made these changes in stages, first Avail frame and spool together shed 1.5 oz. Also, my shorter Haneda Craft alloy handle was a better match for the low gears than the 70-mm heavily-chromed handle he had installed. Conversion to IAR included a new 2500CI right-side plate from ereplacementparts, Avail drive-side brake plate, mainshaft and drag stack, alloy trim, Avail idler and BB-pinion, and Avail L/S brake plate. Getting to this final 6.0 oz costs about $100/oz in aftermarket parts, and I routinely fish 1.5 g on this reel.

This '77 4500C from my bench will cast 3 g beyond 150' Spool bearings are full-ceramic SiN, and LW-dual-BB mods all have zirconia full-ceramic (you can see the worm shaft bearing on this end). Alloy LW rider, zirconia pawl. Avail shallow spool, PE#1. @FloridaFishinFool Here's Jun Sonada's heirachy for tuning Ambassadeur for light-lure distance: https://japantackle.com/Tackle_topics/abu_tuneup.htm The Japanese have been making these parts since 1985, and coined the term BFS for small-frame Ambassadeur c. 2000. Langley DD-LW is driven off the main gear, ultimately the spool and pinion, but it's an amazingly efficient design, and really great bushings. It's easy to argue these reels were the original BFS 50 years before BFS had a name. Target is freespool, NLW - pulling out the handle lifts the main gear from the pinion, and there's a friction sleeve in the side plate to hold it engaged or disengaged.

@FloridaFishinFool Jose's paper calculated force and torque, his conclusion stated why you want alternating magnet poles - alternating poles gives you pure torque w/o unbalanced side load. He stated he didn't address inertia, which is the most important to us - lower inertia starts quicker and takes less brake force to get the same brake result, increasing spool speed and light-lure distance.

Both Langleys are older than me - early postwar. Langley was eventually bought by Zebco and produced through 1968. The 310XN Streamlite came from a Japan bench, where he did amazing work, narrowing the reel from original wide spool KC, shallow drum on the narrowed spool, and increased gear ratio to 5.6. He also converts original RH reels to LH, and sells them all on Yahoo Here's his ameba.jp blog - https://www.ameba.jp/profile/general/nkmaker/ @FloridaFishinFool ps - I did a mag brake conversion on Target for Matt Wickham (ORCA president and author), and he cast it in ACA casting competition last month - these reels are go-to for vintage tournament casting, both distance and accuracy, though they're known to be crazy fast and hard to control - solved.

Mag Brake for Langley Required end tension on direct drive reels is a constant force from beginning through end of cast. Mag brake force is proportional to spool speed, so the spool without end tension starts up with zero brake force, reaches max force quickly, and brake force decreases through remainder of the cast. Mag brake lets you cast light lures reliably without end tension and only using thumb for start and end of cast. I first noticed the cupped spool flanges on Langley had enough room to fit 3-mm-tall N52 magnets. The procedure is to mill square-shouldered holes halfway through the 2-mm side-plate-thickness, and set M2 black steel washers in epoxy putty. Mark drill locations halfway between feed-clicker spring and spool groove in the backplate. Initial drill foot to about 0.5 mm using 2-3-mm bit. Drill to max 1.2-mm deep using 5.2-mm boring bit. Finish square-shoulders on drill holes to 0.8-mm depth using 5-mm end mill. The deeper cone allows a foot for epoxy putty. Here, I clean in ultrasonic to remove drill residues before setting putty, M2 black steel washers are set in epoxy putty, by pressing with top of 5.2-mm drill bit. Initial epoxy flash is cleaned with plastic scraper, and final wash with alcohol swab. After the epoxy is set, N52 magnets snap into place. Magnet poles should alternate N-S-N-S. Magnet force can be adjusted by the number and size of magnets. Example above using one 5x3-mm magnet and three 4x3-mm magnets. Magnet force can be reduced by replacing one or more magnets with 2-mm-thick magnets. You only need enough brake force to get the spool across the hump at mid-cast without backlash. Mag brake should be set for mid cast throwing the lightest lure you plan to fish, and it will be set for all heavier weights. A freespool Langley like the Target in my first photo will fish 1 g. A level-wind direct-drive Langley will fish 2 g.

paraffin - Gulfwax - is the correct plastic-ferrule grease - recommended by J.K. Fisher since 1968 (from '84 catalog). I used to carry one of the quarter-sized flat candles in my fly fishing bag for multipiece-rod ferrules. There are newer micro-grain ferrule waxes, which harden stiffer, until they begin to flow again. The people who always swore nose grease was all they needed for ferrule wax also always swore again when they were squatted with their rod behind their knees trying to break the joint. and this is a 4-pc Fisher rod.

Shimming mainshaft/drag stacks is always important on Ambassadeur. (Even my 1500 CI-conversion with all-new Avail parts needed an extra 0.2-mm M4 washer above the mainshaft teflon washer) Too often, you can bottom-out travel on drag nut before you get usable drag value. Avail sells 1.0- and 0.5-mm M8 brass washers for this. (also note how the old Ambassadeur pinion yoke resembles Douglas' 1918 version)

All baitcasters, including those with a full-time A/R roller bearing, still have a separate A/R ratchet at the bottom of the mainshaft. Freespool lifts the pinion out of engagement with both the main gear and the spool. The ratchet engages the trigger that releases the clutch. Turning the crank/mainshaft, the first click you hear releases the ratchet - the second click engages pinion and main gears. The lifting pinion, btw, was on Douglas' 1918 patent for 1st model Pflueger Supreme - on that freespool + A/R design (no drag), you turned the crank backwards for the yoke to lift the pinion from both main gear and spool for freespool. But Pflueger dropped the complicated mechanism when they could copy Marhoff's direct-drive LW (expired patent) in 1928. The freespool clutch we recognize today originated on 1954 Ambassadeur patent (which no one could copy before 1972). Kinda like Daiwa T-wing, Douglas' LW rider dropped forward on freespool. On retrieve, the upright rider pushed the line to either side, where the yoke lifted the line and dropped it in the rider groove. These reels also weren't nickeled brass or even nickel-silver, but were silver-plate.