bulldog1935

Direct experience with Daiwa S PE Special spool and Shimano S spinner spools filling braids, Daiwa greatly under-rates the capacity of their spool (holds more larger line than listed). Shimano slightly under-rates their spool capacity. Sufix 832 is always larger diameter than reported. Japan X-braid is always spot-on or maybe just slightly smaller than reported diameter. Avail spools are spot-on their capacity rating, and Pattaya calculator is spot-on for stacking lines. I stacked this 5-mm-deep Avail spool with PE#3 backing and #1.2 working line, and was able to count off my pentagram working line so I finished with the 10-m of green. As far as being spooled, surf-fishing at night for bull reds is manly sport, and you bring your bulk spool with you. One night, I was spooled twice.

I just paid my first import duty to UPS, two UL ferruled rod blades, out of production, both unused, and both very good Yahoo buys, paying 6% brokerage to noppin.com. One completed rod sold at the blank price, the other for 15% below original list. I have a UPS account, they email updates on all packages. I received e-mail invoice and paid before it left Japan - the event also shows up on tracking. Duty was 21%, $15 brokerage fee, and I skipped a $10 COD charge by paying in advance. Will it affect my discretionary spending? Yeah, it will change it by 21%. Otherwise, the process was pretty painless.

The Izanas-made braids can spare the strength loss. For a given diameter, braids on the market vary in breaking strength by 2-1/2 times. For PE#1 diameter, that ranges from 8-lb to 25-lb breaking strength. Izanas achieves the highest breaking strength per diameter in market by their use of UHMWPE, drawn and work-hardened center strand, ultra-fine fibers, and ultra-tight weave. Lowering 22-lb breaking strength to 20-lb to increase sink rate is not taking a risk. The other advantage to keeping up with your braids by diameter is the ease of calculating spool capacity and stacking lines: https://www.pattayafishing.net/advanced-fishing-reel-line-capacity-estimator/

I go down to #0.6 on finesse tackle, but @FishTank's selection are pretty much go-to for everything else. There is a difference in sinking braid - e.g., YGK G-soul and Jigman. Sinking braid includes flurocarbon fibers in the weave to increase density, which also gives away about 10% on the breaking strength.

@Big Hands The way you can extend that limited shelf life in the future is to double-bag (in ziplocs) all your resins and glues. I do this with RodBond and ProPaste epoxy. FWIW, there is no solvent cure. The resin is oxidizing and cross-linking - the same curing after you apply it to your cork. It's a different composition from the way it began. In the case of Zap CA+, I quadruple-bag my super glue, and a 1/4-oz bottle lasts me up to two years and remains liquid, without the nozzle plugging, caps gluing to the bottles or the bottle contents turning solid. editing in a ps - shellac and lacquer are the only coatings that remain solvent-pliable, without changing their composition - they simply evaporate the carrier. For spendy varnish and spendier mastic varnish for maintaining cane rods, I bought a product called Bloxygen, which you spray into the resin bottle/can before you close it. Bloxygen prevents the resin from aging/curing in the container.

Fluoro should be slightly smaller diameter than mono, which plays out in the chart. Chart says 12-lb Invizx is the same diameter as 8-lb BG mono. It's also 70% heavier than mono, so it will weigh down your spool more (slower spool start, more casting brake needed), especially if you fill a deeper spool with smaller diameter line. You can also back your spool halfway with bigger diameter mono than you normally use, and top the spool with your smaller-dia. working line. My dad always filled his spools with 25-lb mono, which made it really easy to strip it down some and top with 12-lb fluoro from my bulk spool.

I like micron-frame Tica Cetus SS 800. This one is wearing SLPW pimp. Shimano offers a 500-size Nasci, and a 500-size Vanford, both their version of micron-frame locomotive drive - they're both closer to 750 size.

Nice Zara Spook - remove the eye screws and hooks - don't dip the lure in anything - any cleaning formulation will strip the remaining finish. Treating the brass spoons with hooks attached per below is fine. If they come out pink instead of yellow, you can polish the pink away w/ metal polish. If you want to clean the hooks for display, vinegar bath - 3+-hour soak in household vinegar + 3 parts warm water (finger-touch warm) - I keep it warm on a hot plate (turning a glass stove top warm and off) for 3 hours, and take a toothbrush to them frequently. Follow with soap/water rinses and air dry. Unlikely that the metal is tough enough to fish again, and if you want to use the lures, hooks, split rings and eye-screws likely should be replaced. There's more than rust - hydrochloric acid results from further oxidation, and causes stress corrosion/ hydrogen cracking of the hardened steel. Even if you clean them, they'll likely break when you need them - inside, they're possibly already riddled with micro cracks that you can't see.

"Better abrasion" usually means less tolerance to knot damage, the harder material is notch-sensitive. Leader material packaged in leader spools usually has better q/c than bulk filler spool packaging - closer control on formulation and diameter, changes in formulation to make it less notch-sensitive.

Your line could also be dragging on the bail, and hanging there before it gets to the line roller. I think you would see this, but you have to be watching for it. Finding zero-slack line tension before you retrieve pretty much guarantees line is seated in the roller. Turn with the rod before you retrieve.

No no no. Not. Even. Line on the spool skirt below the bottom of the spool indicates the spool is is too far up. The problem isn't in spool shimming. You shim spool when line lay doesn't reach the bottom of the spool, giving line dig at least, reverse cone at worst - you can create these by removing shim, and @islandbass said the problem showed up in a few retrieves. Shimming problems show up when first lining the spool. The problem is most likely in the bail and line roller - for some reason, while the rotor turns, the line is leaving or not getting to the bottom of the groove in the line roller Same result, possible cause is operator error - slack line. See Manual Bail Technique.

@MRQturbo answering out of turn, here you want 7+' here, you'll do better with 6-1/2' - yes, that's redfish back 6' is still cozy here probably do better with 5' here, skipping the overhang.

6'6" is all-around useful length. I'd go 7' for reservoir fishing, and 6' for river kayak.

The other extreme from @ATA's bluewater rods. A pair of UL IM6 Japanese ferruled rod blades matched to Ali Express champion-ferrule rod grips. 4'8" spinner (Hitotoki Wickman) matched with micron-frame Tica Cetus, 1-10g 4'7" baitfinesse (Kuramochi Limbs) matched with bench-mod + mag brake Langley 310XN Streamlite, 2-9g. Both grips were kits, with bench epoxy work. The LureSport spinning grip was $40, vs. $140++ for equivalent Japanese grip. I paid a bit more for the Aioushi offset bait grip, but still half of the closest Japan grip. The casting blade was such a light twig, I had to swap the cork grasp with the carbon grasp I already had made up - couldn't feel the lure weight with cork grip. The niche is stream trout, throwing micro-spoons, spinners, and micro-plugs in tight spaces, but I'll mostly use them for endemic river bass (Texas Brook Trout) in limestone headwaters.

no, based on line diameter - you're welcome to run all the tests and fall out of all the trees you choose to climb. The rest of us will step back and enjoy the forest. TX PE No. 75665 You can measure the 5% cast distance compared to Ryoga on casting range, but here's where it matters. For those who want 34-mm Daiwa floating spool w/o T-wing, there are usually lightly-used '18 Ryoga 1016 on Yahoo, this one with KTF Kahen spool. Daiwa's due for an update of this well-packaged beast.

and I thought Real BFS left BR with ska-boy. It's a shame Abu doesn't import versions of their JDM rods to USM. Several of us @softwateronly will stand up for discontinued Prototype Kurodai Baitfinesse as the best you're likely to find. Extreme light-lure range, fast, extreme big fish power. I would watch JDM for introduction of next series of KR-X baitfinesse rods - and, of course, understand your time line is get the best currently available. real bfs, btw, is the reel - it's not a rod.

TX coast benchmark boatmaker Shoalwater offered a 90-mph bay boat - you won't find it on their website. At that speed, only the motor foot is in the water, and the boat is a hydroplane. Boat-show demo nose-up flipped and killed one of the demo passengers.

@ElGuapo928 The only AIS system I saw in-use was on a 25' cuddy, and cap'n had all the reefs programmed-in. Deck-hand showing samsonite snapper, which was caught by my buddy. My part in that fish, after we fished through our bait, I caught the fly-rod bluefish cut-bait that caught the samsonite snapper. I also got suspended snapper on fly rod sinking line, to notch-up my fly-rod species list (now over 120).

@F14A-B

https://www.boatus.com/products-and-services/membership/mmsi And sorry, marine band VHF is limited to marine operations, which includes offshore and ICW, and specific high-use fresh waterways where US Coast Guard has a presence. Most lake sail-yachters I know apply for inland VHF license.

@Tennessee Boy AIS identification is on hand-held VHF/GPS/DSC marine-band radios, and you apply for an MMSI, which locks the radio to the hull for life. Everyone I know who paddles offshore uses this technology. You classify your boat with the MMSI application, and paddlecraft shows up on AIS nav screens. MMSI also helps identify you if your boat gets recovered for any reason, e.g. blown away, stolen and found, etc. Regards A few years ago, a guide ran over and killed a kayaker crossing Aransas Channel in the dark. The guide didn't even know what he hit until he got back in and looked at his boat, then reported it. It was the kayaker's fault - illegal without a 360 light - though most boats in Aransas Channel come off plane when they get to Lighthouse Lakes marker 60 channel crossing. This was the spot. Maybe SFB takes many forms. Not all boats come off plane when they see kayakers crossing the channel (Marker 1). In fall tides, we also see power boats poaching the 10,000-acre SNA preserve and no-prop zone.

The simple rule, grease is for contact stress like gear teeth and thrust. Oil is for rotation and light sliding, bushings/spindles and bearings.

@TnRiver46 - there's pages of that going around.

@Big Hands - Hi friend, 5000D modified with full Avail alloy/BB LW, Avail 5-mm spool, mag brake, and GoldWorks skeleton spool bushings. I'm targeting mid-weight cranks, and was able to set the mag brake throwing 1/8 oz. I also had to get creative on the bait-feed clicker, and drill a hole in the side plate to swap C3 feed-clicker for the stock feed-clicker that wouldn't allow Avail mag brake. It's a fun reel, while the clutch works as normal Ambassadeur, the mainshaft stack functions as direct drive, turning the crank backwards with drag pay. Alloy frame, it's also the lightest mid-frame Ambassadeur I own.

Well gee, FE Thomas Mahogany grade Special Bait. Tube and original tafetta sock, hang tag filled out by Fred, butt cap mark dates 1914. Appropriately matched with 1914 Talbot Niangua Because of ivory grasp, I'm not supposed to sell this reel interstate or international without Commerce Dept. permit and provenance of age.