bulldog1935

Different rods, different niches, casting techniques, different grips and MOC. X-shrink over EVA is best for shore and surf 2-hand rods, and offshore rods. Keeps the rod weight down on a heavy rod, and makes a light rod even lighter. Split grips, solid cork, all good, as long as it balances the rod blank properly. (definitely prefer cork, and I have original cork going back to 1914). Speaking of balance, old-school rods can be really grippy with rubber and bakelite is the grippiest grip I've ever grabbed. I have one stream trout rod blade so light, cork overwhelmed it, and I couldn't feel light lure weight on the rod. The grip was made to swap grasp, so I balanced it with a carbon grasp.

I bought my Ryoga used - it had clearly been used extensively in the salt, because the copper shields on all the MagSeal bearings had oxidized black. I replaced them all in kind. To Daiwa's credit, all the bearings I replaced spun freely. While I was in there, swapped the fine-teeth alloy gears with brass and stainless Hyperdrive gears from '21 Basura. I also began with a good $200 buy, so I had room for the upgrades. I upgraded the spool bearings to silicon nitride full ceramic, which have given me great salt service across all my Daiwas and a couple of surf Ambassadeurs. It's delicious in my salt-marsh bunny-shrimp niche

I found a minor sweet spot on my CV-Z casting 3 g with SV Boost 1000S - farther than every other Daiwa I own, but it was a very narrow window - it got start-up backlash increasing the weight to loaded 1/8 oz jighead, and 1/4 oz was right out. I don't have MagZ Boost, but trying every other spool I own, it liked SV non-boost with mono, and casts PE#1.5 beginning at 1/4-oz very well on MagZ 1012 spool. This was on 8'9' shore rod rated 3 to 30 g. @anteman I think MagZ Boost would probably do better with the heavier weights you're describing.

@FishTank basically true - water dissolves instantly in alcohol, and salt dissolves slowly, so it concentrates to brine. Residual salt water doesn't dry anywhere for up to a year - it just concentrates to brine and remains liquid - why initial rinse is so important. Worse than salt is ferric ions from salt corrosion of steel, and cupric ions from salt corrosion of brass - the resulting salts release hydrochloric acid, and are corrosive to otherwise salt-resistant metals. Any sign of salt rust in a reel should be removed and replaced - yesterday. These magnets got replaced because corrosion was moving sideways under the cathodic coating. 4 years in the salt, and that was 4 years ago, with no other worries.

All pinions work gear-ratio-times as hard as main gear, but aren't involved in casting. Looking on the other side of the reel, the spur gear meshes with the idler and worm-gear - all this spins during cast. Spool centering can also be critical - if the spool isn't properly centered, the spool (drag washer) pins can impact the pinion slots during cast. Easy to diagnose - gets worse casting with handle tilted down, better or disappears casting with handle tilted up.

My favorite hard leader is YGK V12, and I've loaded up 3 or four 30-m spools in a range of sizes I fish, thrown in with other Japan orders. They've started selling direct on Amazon now (linked above - paid half that buying in Japan). If you compare JDM Seaguar Premium to Grand Max, you'll find the same breaking strength ratio - Premium is tougher and stretchier, Grand Max is harder and more abrasion-resistant. I don't understand why leader thread OP always ends up with bulk line comparisons - they're not the same. (yeah, I know, specifically asked for in OP) In USM leader, probably can't beat Seaguar Gold for hardness/abrasion, and Seaguar Blue for stretch and toughness. But you know what you're getting with JDM leader - diameter and breaking strength are real numbers. Hard leader is lower memory, and knot strengh should never be an issue in any quality leader (it was in older Rio and Orvis High-Strengh tippet spools - turned everyone to Seaguar, Umpqua and Frog Hair). You're not going to find limp to be an issue in any leader finer than 10-lb breaking strength. A good guess is that Toray and Kureya make all JDM leader, and Toray ExThread is the best-behaved bulk fluorocarbon made, and spendiest for a reason. Regardless of line or leader, when a redfish turns into skinny oyster shell, never brought one out.

All ceramic materials are brittle. Hardness decides how they wear when other hard materials like sand are dragged across them. Electroless nickel - 600 HV (Vickers hardness scale - nominal values) Hardest knife edge - 700 HV Hard Chrome - 1000 HV Carboloy (Mildrum) 1500 HV Alconite hardness - 1700 HV Silicon nitride - 1800 HV Sand - 1800 HV, so sand will wear Alconite, and may wear SiN. Silicon Carbide and Torzite are comparable hardness, 2400 HV, though Torzite is 40% lighter than SiC. Natural agate, btw, is also quartz, the same mineral as sand, and was used on rod and line guides for 100 years before man-made ceramics. 1914 Because of the natural mineral crystal imperfections, this stuff is a lot more brittle than silicon carbide. 1935

Lead isn't going away. Europe is loaded with lead water pipes, some dating back to the Romans. Yes to vinegar cleaning. Boeshield will wax and protect better than WD40

Keep it clean and go fishing. Modern synthetic lubes are really good and long-term stable, unlike old Daiwa blue grease, which turned to wax after a year. Just mentioned on another thread, all but one of my LP reels are in full-time salt service, and all have unshielded spool bearings that get a drop of oil before and after every trip, with a good hose rinse and air dry before that after-trip detail maintenance. Removed the drive cover first time on my Zillion after 4 salt years, and it was pristine inside. It got a drop of oil on the bearings, and light grease on the main gear using an art brush.

You should do well with the orange-seal bearing upgrade. I'm 80% in the salt, and prefer unshielded spool microbearings, because they get a drop of oil before and after every trip. Of course the bearings are salt-resistant MOC, but no place for salt to concentrate.

The noise is steel bearing balls clicking, where before the click was damped by more viscous lube. There are lower-mass, lower-inertia bearings made to run lighter oil without noise, such as hybrid ceramic and micro-bearings. Many of the latter still have high load range, lower inertia for quicker spool start and less brake force needed for longer casts (nominal 5 % increase). No accident I showed IXA MBS bearings above, which make that reel electric-fast. A comparable bearing is Hedgehog Air HD with high load range. Also full-size hybrid ceramic. Unshielded bearings need a drop of oil every month of use, but they're also flushed by this action. Two choices with the same amount of work. Upgrade the bearings, or remove, clean and use more-viscous bearing oil.

Likely worn bearings that were happier with more viscous lube before. Great opportunity to upgrade spool bearings.

You set up any linear mag brake this way. When SV and MagZ is done with start-up and the inductor fully retracted, it's a linear mag brake through remaining 98% of the cast. The only thing to set is the linear mag at mid-cast. There's nothing to set for start-up - MagZ/SV brake response is proportional to start-up jerk, and increasing jerk moves more inductor mass into the magnet field - simple and brilliant design. Pick the right inductor - MagZ if you're casting over 1 oz. Boost simply trims the brake curve during start-up to take less total energy off the spool vs. non-Boost The purple Ray's Studio tapered SV inductor in my last photo gets the same result as Boost.

Camera. I keep my sports camera on tripod at my bench, and take bread-crumb photos as the reel is coming apart. Also come in handy for BR forum discussion.

The Japanese have been making those rods in 1/16 to 5/8 oz, from 6-1/2' for reservoir bass to 8-1/2' for salt shore for 7 or 8 years. The $100 rods are sold by Pure Fishing JP, and scads of rods with the 3/8-oz top end sold by Major Craft and others. Abu Revo reels also loaded the linear-mag BFS reel market, though Daiwa's design has an advantage for aftermarket spools. If I could have found a shallow spool for mag-brake Lew's, maybe wouldn't have bought my first (and 5th) Daiwa since 1977. Hopefully made the point up front, everyone is going to take finesse fishing personally. From the old school, spinning cast is right arm w/ LH crank, both fly and baitcast the opposite. Wrist snap is distance with spinning tackle - wrist snap is only tailing loop and backlash with the other arm. I still prefer spinning for complex rigs, such as cigar-cork dropper and tandem. Otherwise, the BFS set-up is both a distance and control advantage, and all the advantages of tight-line including never fouling hooks on line and instant fishing on lure fall.

Esta bien.

Generally, the correct way to set MagZ and SV mag scalar on Daiwa, you cast a high arc using the lightest weight you ever plan to cast, and dial out mid-cast backlash. (MagZ and SV moving inductor takes care of start-up backlash and heavier weights.) Use this scalar setting as your base number - you may dial it down a notch or two to increase heavy-lure distance. You increase it a notch or two for casting into wind. Wind backlash is mid-cast backlash, and you dial it out with (any) linear mag brake. The motion of SV and MagZ inductor is a non-linear start-up response, giving mag brake the increased force of centrifugal to prevent start-up backlash. 2nd - I would go with Zillion HD, to gain all the options offered for 34-mm Daiwa floating spool. um, did you read my 2nd post MagZ Boost is SV Boost for casting heavier weights. Also read Jun Sonada description in my link - don't have to take my word for it.

I don't know enough about Tatula (long spindle) spool compatability, or what spools are available for them. But between the two reels you listed, TTW 150 with MagZ spool is the right choice for casting 7 to 40 g.

7 to 40 g is exacrtly the range you want for Mag Z spool. The magnets are the same on Daiwa reels - the spools swap, which is why they're so desirable. 34-mm Daiwa floating spool swaps between Steez/A, Zillion/HD, Silver Wolf, Ryoga 1016, and older Daiwa back to CV-Z. This lets you swap spools to fish lightest finesse to the 40-g end on several reel frames. There is also a MagZ Boost spool with the thicker-yet purple inductor and a dual-spring MagZ return that gets the same result as SV Boost https://japantackle.com/tuning-parts/spools-casting-reels/tu002306.html You might want to watch for new Ryoga release next year.

MagZ uses thicker, heavier (stronger mag response) gold MagZ inductor, and a bit heavier return mechanism. Its useful low-end is 1/4 oz (7 g), though it gets best results casting heavier weights. SV spools use thinner, lighter, orange SV inductor, and a simpler lighter return mechanism - the inductor rides outward on a ramp, and a spring brings it back. SV Boost uses 2-stage return springs - a stronger spring that only returns first half-half of inductor travel, and a softer spring that returns last half of inductor travel. The SV inductor effect is lower total mass and lower total intertia, giving these spools a 3-g (<1/8 oz) usable low end and requiring lower total brake force, so more energy goes into distance casting low end. SV Boost improves cast distance with heavier weights vs SV without Boost, because it reduces the brake force quickly to half of the brake force needed for starting heavy weights - one spool to cast widest weight range.

I can't imagine a simpler topic - yet look above.

Winter kayaking needs dry pants, and layers underneath to match the day. Kokatat goretex (they offer slightly less breathable and cheaper Hydrus, also). NRS offers their HypoTex dry pants for less. These fit more like street pants than waders, and completely comfortable sitting in kayak (or driving truck). From decades of winter tailwater fishing, wet fleece gloves are a detriment, sucking major heat from your hands. Wet wool gloves are still good insulation - though normal to remove gloves and keep them dry in a jacket pocket before handling fish. Neoprene is the very best glove for insulating wet hands. Neoprene is not a good idea for waders or dry pants, because they don't breathe and saturate your clothes with sweat.

@Banned User I don't get quoting the answer to your question. Zirconia load rating is 20+% lower than steel, silicon carbide, or silicon nitride. Where they're useful is in handle knob bearings and level wind bearings in Ambassadeur mods, combination of essentially weightless and never needing oil. In these small-size applications, they're also quiet. Acetone - is this thing on?

not showin' off, just gettin' my cats whisker

My long fingers palm Ryoga, so you can't always trust others.