Hola, me gustaría participar en la conversación. ¿El Mag Z evita los contragolpes con la misma eficacia que el SV Boost? En otras palabras, ¿podemos lanzar sin necesidad de sujetar el carrete con el pulgar?

Además, quisiera compartir mi situación y pedir consejo sobre la elección entre el TW SV 100 (con SV Boost) y el TW 150 o SV TW 150 (con freno Mag Z). Les cuento: suelo usar dos equipos de pesca distintos con señuelos de entre 10 y 40 gramos. Las especies que busco son dorado, quizás un surubí (un bagre mediano o grande) si Dios quiere, traraira (un depredador), chafalote (otro depredador) y otros peces depredadores, que generalmente no superan los 10 kg; 15 kg sería un récord, jaja. Así que estaba pensando en un carrete con una resistencia de 6 o 7 kg y una capacidad de línea de aproximadamente 100 m de 0,23 mm. 

Hey Guys, Google Translate can help you out if you don't speak Spanish:

 

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Hi, I'd like to join the conversation. Does the Mag Z prevent backlash as effectively as the SV Boost? In other words, can we cast without needing to hold the reel with our thumb?

 

Also, I'd like to share my situation and ask for advice on choosing between the TW SV 100 (with SV Boost) and the TW 150 or SV TW 150 (with Mag Z drag). Here's my situation: I usually use two different fishing setups with lures between 10 and 40 grams. The species I target are dorado, maybe a surubí (a medium or large catfish) if God wills it, traraira (a predator), chafalote (another predator), and other predatory fish, which generally don't exceed 10 kg; 15 kg would be a record, haha. So I was thinking about a reel with a 6 or 7 kg drag and a line capacity of approximately 100 m of 0.23 mm line.

 

MagZ is for range, and SV is for control, so it won't be as forgiving.

I personally never understood this fascination of casting thumb free. You will never, no matter the technology used, be able to cast for maximum distance without a thumb. And if you don't care about the distance, just max your brakes, apply some friction to the spool shaft with the mechanical brake knob, and you will be able to cast those 20 meters without a thumb even with a cheapo $100 reel.

Get the new Tatula in 100 or 200 size. If most fish is over 10lb, a 200 size will be great.

MagZ uses thicker, heavier (stronger mag response) gold MagZ inductor, and a bit heavier return mechanism.  Its useful low-end is 1/4 oz (7 g), though it gets best results casting heavier weights.  

 

SV spools use thinner, lighter, orange SV inductor, and a simpler lighter return mechanism - the inductor rides outward on a ramp, and a spring brings it back.  SV Boost uses 2-stage return springs - a stronger spring that only returns first half-half of inductor travel, and a softer spring that returns last half of inductor travel.  

The SV inductor effect is lower total mass and lower total intertia, giving these spools a 3-g (<1/8 oz) usable low end and requiring lower total brake force, so more energy goes into distance casting low end.  

SV Boost improves cast distance with heavier weights vs SV without Boost, because it reduces the brake force quickly to half of the brake force needed for starting heavy weights - one spool to cast widest weight range.  

8 hours ago, bulldog1935 said:

MagZ utiliza un inductor MagZ de oro más grueso y pesado (con mayor respuesta magnética) y un mecanismo de retorno ligeramente más robusto. Su peso mínimo útil es de 7 g (1/4 oz), aunque obtiene mejores resultados con pesos mayores.  

 

Las bobinas SV utilizan un inductor SV naranja más delgado y ligero, y un mecanismo de retorno más sencillo y ligero: el inductor se desplaza hacia afuera sobre una rampa y un resorte lo trae de vuelta. El SV Boost utiliza un resorte de retorno de dos etapas: un resorte más rígido que solo devuelve la primera mitad del recorrido del inductor y un resorte más flexible que devuelve la última mitad.  

El efecto inductor SV es una masa total menor y una inercia total menor, lo que proporciona a estos carretes un límite inferior utilizable de 3 g (<1/8 oz) y requiere una fuerza de frenado total menor, por lo que se destina más energía al límite inferior para lanzamientos a larga distancia.  

El SV Boost mejora la distancia de lanzamiento con pesos más pesados en comparación con el SV sin Boost, porque reduce rápidamente la fuerza de frenado a la mitad de la fuerza de frenado necesaria para comenzar con pesos pesados: un solo carrete para lanzar el rango de pesos más amplio.  

Excelente explicación amigo! Crees que con el SV Boost pueda manejar pesos de entre 7 y 40 gm?e interesa ese sistema de freno frente al mag Z ya que me permite tirar contra el viento

 

8 hours ago, Micro Module Police said:

MagZ es para alcance y SV para control, así que no será tan permisivo.

Personalmente, nunca entendí esta fascinación por lanzar sin usar el pulgar. Nunca, sin importar la tecnología, podrás lanzar a máxima distancia sin usarlo. Y si no te importa la distancia, simplemente ajusta los frenos al máximo, aplica fricción al eje del carrete con la perilla del freno mecánico y podrás lanzar esos 20 metros sin pulgar incluso con un carrete barato de $100.

Consigue el nuevo Tatula en tamaño 100 o 200. Si la mayoría de los peces pesan más de 4.5 kg, el tamaño 200 será ideal.

Entiendo, disculpa, mi pregunta no iba dirigida al uso del pulgar directamente, pero recordemos que poner el pulgar en un sistema de freno general un rozamiento extra y te hace perder distancia, mientras que pudes utilizar el freno propio del reel el cual ha sido desarrollado con una tecnología de vanguardia para aumentar la distancia y luego cuando el cebo va a tocar el agua si poner el pulgar. Más allá de esa cuestión, el SV BOOST me permitiría lanzar viento en contra, no sé si Mag Z pueda hacer eso, tu que opinas?

2 hours ago, Andrés Milano said:

Excelente explicación amigo! Crees que con el SV Boost pueda manejar pesos de entre 7 y 40 gm?e interesa ese sistema de freno frente al mag Z ya que me permite tirar contra el viento

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Excellent explanation, my friend! Do you think the SV Boost can handle weights between 7 and 40 grams? I'm interested in that braking system compared to the Mag Z because it allows me to shoot against the wind.

7 to 40 g is exacrtly the range you want for Mag Z spool.  

The magnets are the same on Daiwa reels - the spools swap, which is why they're so desirable.  

34-mm Daiwa floating spool swaps between Steez/A, Zillion/HD, Silver Wolf, Ryoga 1016, and older Daiwa back to CV-Z.  This lets you swap spools to fish lightest finesse to the 40-g end on several reel frames.  

There is also a MagZ Boost spool with the thicker-yet purple inductor and a dual-spring MagZ return that gets the same result as SV Boost

https://japantackle.com/tuning-parts/spools-casting-reels/tu002306.html

You might want to watch for new Ryoga release next year.  

12 hours ago, bulldog1935 said:

De 7 a 40 g es exactamente el rango que necesitas para el carrete Mag Z.  

Los imanes son los mismos en los carretes Daiwa; lo que cambia son las bobinas, por eso son tan codiciados.  

El carrete flotante Daiwa de 34 mm es compatible con los modelos Steez/A, Zillion/HD, Silver Wolf, Ryoga 1016 y Daiwa, incluyendo modelos anteriores como el CV-Z. Esto permite cambiar de carrete para pescar con líneas finesse ultraligeras hasta pesos de 40 g en varios tipos de carretes.  

También existe un carrete MagZ Boost con un inductor púrpura más grueso y un retorno MagZ de doble resorte que consigue el mismo resultado que el SV Boost.

https://japantackle.com/tuning-parts/spools-casting-reels/tu002306.html

Quizás te interese estar atento al nuevo lanzamiento de Ryoga el próximo año.  

WOW! Dejame ver si entendí bien por qué creo que acabas de darme la solución a mi problema. Si compro el tatula TW 150 puedo poner luego este carrete? O viceversa y mejor aún, me estás diciendo que puedo comprar el Tatula TW SV BOOST 100 y ponerle este carrete para tener el Mag Z Boost para señuelos pesados y el SV Boost para señuelos más livianos en el mismo reel?! Cómo se la compatibilidad?

Me estás ayudando muchísimo!

 

WOW! Let me see if I understood correctly why I think you just gave me the solution to my problem. If I buy the TW 150 tatula, can I put this reel later? Or vice versa and even better, are you telling me that I can buy the Tatula TW SV BOOST 100 and put this reel to have the Mag Z Boost for heavy lures and the SV Boost for lighter lures in the same reel?! How do I know the compatibility?
 

8 minutes ago, Andrés Milano said:

WOW! Let me see if I understand correctly because I think you've just given me the solution to my problem. If I buy the Tatula TW 150, can I then use this reel? Or vice versa, and even better, are you saying I can buy the Tatula TW SV BOOST 100 and use this reel to have the Mag Z Boost for heavy lures and the SV Boost for lighter lures on the same reel?! How do I check compatibility?

You're helping me a lot!

I don't know enough about Tatula (long spindle) spool compatability, or what spools are available for them.  But between the two reels you listed, TTW 150 with MagZ spool is the right choice for casting 7 to 40 g.  

9 hours ago, bulldog1935 said:

Desconozco la compatibilidad de las bobinas Tatula (de husillo largo) y las bobinas disponibles para ellas. Sin embargo, de los dos carretes que mencionaste, la bobina TTW 150 MagZ es la más adecuada para lanzar de 7 a 40 g.  

Entiendo! Suponiendo que elijo un tamaño 150 y con Magforce Z. Me surgen dos dudas al respecto:

1er duda: como se comporta lanzando con viento? Suele hacer galletas o backlash?

2nda duda: en tamaño 150 como dijimos y con freno Mag Z, que modelo me recomendarías? Tatula? Kage? Costal?

 

Perdón por consultar tanto, pero veo que sabes y me interesa aprender! 
 

I understand! Assuming I choose a size 150 and with Magforce Z. I have two doubts about it:

1st question: how do you behave throwing with wind? Do you usually make cookies or backlash?

2nd question: in size 150 as we said and with Mag Z brake, what model would you recommend? Tatula? Kage? Sast?

Sorry for consulting so much, but I see that you know and I'm interested in learning!

21 hours ago, Micro Module Police said:

MagZ is for range, and SV is for control, so it won't be as forgiving.

I personally never understood this fascination of casting thumb free. You will never, no matter the technology used, be able to cast for maximum distance without a thumb. And if you don't care about the distance, just max your brakes, apply some friction to the spool shaft with the mechanical brake knob, and you will be able to cast those 20 meters without a thumb even with a cheapo $100 reel.

Get the new Tatula in 100 or 200 size. If most fish is over 10lb, a 200 size will be great.

Just to clarify, are you saying sv won’t be as forgiving? @Micro Module Police

20 hours ago, bulldog1935 said:

MagZ uses thicker, heavier (stronger mag response) gold MagZ inductor, and a bit heavier return mechanism.  It's useful low-end is 1/4 oz (7 g), though it gets best results casting heavier weights.  

 

SV spools use thinner, lighter, orange SV inductor, and a simpler lighter return mechanism - the inductor rides outward on a ramp, and a spring brings it back.  SV Boost uses 2-stage return springs - a stronger spring that only returns first half-half of inductor travel, and a softer spring that returns last half of inductor travel.  

The SV inductor effect is lower total mass and lower total intertia, giving these spools a 3-g (<1/8 oz) usable low end and requiring lower total brake force, so more energy goes into distance casting low end.  

SV Boost improves cast distance with heavier weights vs SV without Boost, because it reduces the brake force quickly to half of the brake force needed for starting heavy weights - one spool to cast widest weight range.  

How does magZ compare to magZ boost? @bulldog1935

 

Sorry to interrupt the thread, OP!

20 hours ago, Andrés Milano said:

I understand! Assuming I choose a size 150 and with Magforce Z. I have two doubts about it:

1st question: how do you behave throwing with wind? Do you usually make cookies or backlash?

2nd question: in size 150 as we said and with Mag Z brake, what model would you recommend? Tatula? Kage? Sast?

Sorry for consulting so much, but I see that you know and I'm interested in learning!

Generally, the correct way to set MagZ and SV mag scalar on Daiwa, you cast a high arc using the lightest weight you ever plan to cast, and dial out mid-cast backlash.  (MagZ and SV moving inductor takes care of start-up backlash and heavier weights.)  Use this scalar setting as your base number - you may dial it down a notch or two to increase heavy-lure distance.  You increase it a notch or two for casting into wind.  

 

Wind backlash is mid-cast backlash, and you dial it out with (any) linear mag brake.  The motion of SV and MagZ inductor is a non-linear start-up response, giving mag brake the increased force of centrifugal to prevent start-up backlash.  

 

2nd - I would go with Zillion HD, to gain all the options offered for 34-mm Daiwa floating spool.  

 

12 hours ago, woolleyfooley said:

How does magZ compare to magZ boost? @bulldog1935

 

um, did you read my 2nd post  MagZ Boost is SV Boost for casting heavier weights.  

Also read Jun Sonada description in my link - don't have to take my word for it.  

23 hours ago, bulldog1935 said:

There is also a MagZ Boost spool with the thicker-yet purple inductor and a dual-spring MagZ return that gets the same result as SV Boost

https://japantackle.com/tuning-parts/spools-casting-reels/tu002306.html

You might want to watch for new Ryoga release next year.  

 

Hace 10 horas, bulldog1935 dijo:

En general, la forma correcta de ajustar el MagZ y el SV Mag Scaler en Daiwa es lanzar con un arco alto usando el peso más ligero que planeas usar y ajustar el ajuste para eliminar la holgura durante la lanza. (El MagZ y el SV con inductor móvil se encargan de la holgura inicial y de los pesos más pesados). Usa este ajuste como base; Puedes reducirlo un par de puntos para aumentar la distancia de lanzamiento con señuelos pesados. Auméntalo un par de puntos para lanzar contra el viento.  

 

La holgura por viento se produce durante el lanzamiento y se corrige con cualquier freno magnético lineal. El movimiento del inductor SV y MagZ genera una respuesta de arranque no lineal, lo que proporciona al freno magnético una mayor fuerza centrífuga para evitar la holgura inicial.  

 

2º - Me decantaría por Zillion HD, para obtener todas las opciones que ofrece para el carrete flotante Daiwa de 34 mm.  

 

¿Leíste mi segundo mensaje? MagZ Boost es SV Boost para lanzar pesos más pesados.  

Lee también la descripción de Jun Sonada en mi enlace; No tienes por qué creerme.  

 

Muchas gracias amigo, me has ayudado y facilitado un poco la vida jaja te mando un saludo y buena pesca 

Esta bien.  

22 hours ago, bulldog1935 said:

Generally, the correct way to set MagZ and SV mag scalar on Daiwa, you cast a high arc using the lightest weight you ever plan to cast, and dial out mid-cast backlash.  (MagZ and SV moving inductor takes care of start-up backlash and heavier weights.)  Use this scalar setting as your base number - you may dial it down a notch or two to increase heavy-lure distance.  You increase it a notch or two for casting into wind.  

 

Wind backlash is mid-cast backlash, and you dial it out with (any) linear mag brake.  The motion of SV and MagZ inductor is a non-linear start-up response, giving mag brake the increased force of centrifugal to prevent start-up backlash.  

 

2nd - I would go with Zillion HD, to gain all the options offered for 34-mm Daiwa floating spool.  

 

um, did you read my 2nd post  MagZ Boost is SV Boost for casting heavier weights.  

Also read Jun Sonada description in my link - don't have to take my word for it.  

 

Ah, no for some reason I didn’t see the quoted response you wrote. I must have missed it. Sorry about that. So do you set up magZ boost the same as you described above?

On 11/9/2025 at 7:46 PM, bulldog1935 said:

Wind backlash is mid-cast backlash, and you dial it out with (any) linear mag brake.  The motion of SV and MagZ inductor is a non-linear start-up response, giving mag brake the increased force of centrifugal to prevent start-up backlash.  

 You set up any linear mag brake this way.  

  

 

 

 

When SV and MagZ is done with start-up and the inductor fully retracted, it's a linear mag brake through remaining 98% of the cast.  The only thing to set is the linear mag at mid-cast.   

 

There's nothing to set for start-up - MagZ/SV brake response is proportional to start-up jerk, and increasing jerk moves more inductor mass into the magnet field - simple and brilliant design.  Pick the right inductor - MagZ if you're casting over 1 oz.  

Boost simply trims the brake curve during start-up to take less total energy off the spool vs. non-Boost 

The purple Ray's Studio tapered SV inductor in my last photo gets the same result as Boost.  

On 11/9/2025 at 8:46 PM, bulldog1935 said:

the correct way to set MagZ and SV mag scalar on Daiwa,

What's the best spool tension for these? The same either way? One have a slight clack when you wiggle it? Tighten to just no clack and stop? Something else?

32 minutes ago, Banned User said:

Tighten to just no clack and stop?

👍

I feel like a couple of the "zero adjuster" reels I got were so loose I could play rhythm in a mariachi band. @PhishLI you tighten those up to a no clack wiggle, of course very slight wiggle but noiseless, too?

11 minutes ago, Banned User said:

you tighten those up to a no clack wiggle, of course very slight wiggle but noiseless, too?

No wiggle. Zero play. Zero tension. All reels. Then I take a silver sharpie marker and make a hash at what I see as 12 o'clock on the tension knob. Comes off with alcohol if I sell a reel.

some things just don't seem like a problem.

The biggest one is Zero Adjust. You need to find incipient side play in your spool, and you're done.

This holds whether you're casting 2 g or 2 oz.

I gotta think some people just gotta adjust something.

If your cast ain't working, adjust your cast before futzing the reel.

44 minutes ago, bulldog1935 said:

some things just don't seem like a problem.

The biggest one is Zero Adjust. You need to find incipient side play in your spool, and you're done.

This holds whether you're casting 2 g or 2 oz.

I gotta think some people just gotta adjust something.

If your cast ain't working, adjust your cast before futzing the reel.

Incipient: beginning to exist; appear.

Thanks for the explanation bulldog. You seem to know these Daiwa reels as well as or better than their creators.

@STPC Thanks friend.

Exact same logic applies to dual-mag on bench Ambassadeur, which is why I showed my 6500CT above, and inside here.

I wasn't able to set this reel up on 14' surf rod, so I set mag and then centrifugal casting 1/4 oz and 1/2 oz on 8' lure rod in the back acre. When I got it to the surf, casting 2 oz to 400' on 14' rod, it was backlash-proof, which is very important - throwing off your rig can ruin your day.

16 hours ago, bulldog1935 said:

some things just don't seem like a problem.

The biggest one is Zero Adjust

Is this supposed to mean you leave it factory setting like its not a problem?

16 hours ago, bulldog1935 said:

incipient side play

Like I said, factory zero adjust had so much sloppy I could dial it back almost a ¹/4 turn to finally get the clack out

On 4/7/2026 at 10:33 PM, PhishLI said:

silver sharpie marker and make a hash at what I see as 12 o'clock

I've been thinking of doing something like this, thanks

16 hours ago, bulldog1935 said:

If your cast ain't working, adjust your cast before futzing the reel

I'm with you on this, definitely think Daiwas are the most set and forget tension, but since my zero adjust have all showed up at different tensions I wasn't sure how clacky it should be.

To be clear, you suggest setting to a silent slight shimmy side to side, so if one tries to make it clack it won't even though it moves slightly. I guess this is to pinpoint how much pressure one applies left and right where you could clack or not, but I mean to try to make a sound with no success so to make sure we understand incipient play to mean as close to the same thing as we can through text

Thanks

Tournament casters want 2 full-mm end play in their spool.

I'm in the less than 1 mm school, since I'm not tournament-distance casting.

I really don't see why this is such a big issue. Anytime you swap a spool or just remove the palm plate, you should open up Zero Set wide first thing - after you swap, return the palm plate and latch it, last thing is to re-set Zero with the spool in freespool.

It's really easy to tell where side play disappears as you tighten the knob - open it up until you can feel it moving again, and you're done.

1 hour ago, Banned User said:

I'm with you on this, definitely think Daiwas are the most set and forget tension, but since my zero adjust have all showed up at different tensions I wasn't sure how clacky it should be.

In my experience, they come from the factory with a fairly decent range on the tension. It's a 'Zero Adjust' not a 'Never Adjust', though we should probably tell Daiwa that, I suppose, if they decide to keep messing with it. It's really just marketing to tell the user that the old way of turning the tension knob for every lure isn't needed.

I never adjust with the fall method. I've always set up all of my reels, centrifugal or magnetic, as is described in this thread. You'll have to get that thumb involved prior to splashdown, especially with centrifugal reels, otherwise the braking systems on most reels are very good at handling the task of braking a reel just fine without that spool tension knob robbing you of performance.