bulldog1935

All baitcasters, including those with a full-time A/R roller bearing, still have a separate A/R ratchet at the bottom of the mainshaft. Freespool lifts the pinion out of engagement with both the main gear and the spool. The ratchet engages the trigger that releases the clutch. Turning the crank/mainshaft, the first click you hear releases the ratchet - the second click engages pinion and main gears. The lifting pinion, btw, was on Douglas' 1918 patent for 1st model Pflueger Supreme - on that freespool + A/R design (no drag), you turned the crank backwards for the yoke to lift the pinion from both main gear and spool for freespool. But Pflueger dropped the complicated mechanism when they could copy Marhoff's direct-drive LW (expired patent) in 1928. The freespool clutch we recognize today originated on 1954 Ambassadeur patent (which no one could copy before 1972). Kinda like Daiwa T-wing, Douglas' LW rider dropped forward on freespool. On retrieve, the upright rider pushed the line to either side, where the yoke lifted the line and dropped it in the rider groove. These reels also weren't nickeled brass or even nickel-silver, but were silver-plate.

You're never a Youtube prisoner - you don't have to listen to them (unless you want to). Look for the assembly point you need to watch, and slew there.

photo, or it didn't happen.

@MN Fisher easy, I didn't reset the date the last time my camera battery died - I'll get it right before the Fall Redfish Rodeo at the end of next month.

take even more photos, as it's coming apart - breadcrumbs to get you back home. Holy crap, I do the same thing if I'm disconnecting my computer (lightning strike killed the motherboard a few months ago).

And of course the OP premise is people who work on their own reels - no one is really marketing for themselves or others, but comparing notes. There are a few diversions, such as what should you do with a salt-abused reel, vs. when do you throw it away.

Boeing developed Boeshield to be a quick swipe fix for airframes, which live in a pretty crappy environment. I have brass parts that have been on my salt kayak for 16 years - everything gets Boeshield.

Look again at this cross section and note the surface area in the dealloying pit is 100,000 times the original metal surface area - you can only clean that by removing it. All residual deposits are a sponge for bad corrosion actors.

When I'm cleaning parts for reassembly, they usually get Boeshield swab and rub last, which is a mineral spirits swipe (the carrier), and leaves a corrosion inhibitor wax that is specific to aluminum, but also works for steel and yellow metal.. Vinegar is acetic acid - there's no HCl in it, and HCl from cupric and ferric chloride is what you're trying to get rid of, not add. It's also the right strength acid to passivate the metal surface. Caveat about magnesium - keep far away from all acids - the only thing that passivates magnesium is soap.

See the pink metal on the shaft - that's dealloying corrosion, it's how brass pits. Both copper and zinc dissolve, zinc salts out, copper re-plates as a structureless metal mat, which also traps more cupric chloride to corrode both this part and any part it gets spread to. Sanding didn't solve the problem - see vinegar bath. After vinegar bath, you can chase those pink spots with sanding and polishing, but the part will have changed dimensions.

my vote, a film of oil where you don't need it simply becomes a dirt magnet. Pawl needs oil in its sleeve, worm gear needs the lightest grease, lightly at each end where the pawl turns.

There are some really good Lew's discounters on ebay. I paid $129 for my first Super Duty G, when retail was $179 - it's been fishing the salt since 2017. Why buy a clamshell-package reel.

I've found baitcasters get the best line lay result when the reel is mounted to a rod, and the line is run through the two closest rod guides. Even in the photo above, the line source spool is upside down to get minimum line twist

nah - operator error I've done this before.

First thing, make sure your spool tension is not too tight - I prefer the Ambassadeurs with spool centering knobs on both sides - they let you dial this problem out. Basically, the spool is not centered with LW travel, and could be affected by tilt. There is a big lag in the worm gear and pawl (gently push LW rider back and forth, and you'll see how big the freeplay in the pawl and worm groove). Whenever I'm spooling a reel, the source spool is on an axle, line run through a phone book with a weight on top, and my rod is in a rod holder. This frees up my rod hand to push the line in front of the rider guide. When LW rider is at the center of the spool, I'm pushing the line with rod-hand index finger all the way to that end, where the pawl and rider reverse direction - repeat this in both directions. This method is more important to get flat line lay in threadline braid than when loading mono. I always get perfect line lay, and working-line lay-error will be insignificant. and look at it this way, it's a whole lot less work than hand-level-wind on a non-level-wind surf reel.

Gold, GrandMax, or YGK V12 If you're worried about diameter, Pick For Diameter, and let yo-yos worry about lb-test. Most always, I'm shooting for abrasion resistance.

GrandMax is Seaguar top-line JDM fluoro leader. They also offer a blue-label Premium, which is 15% softer than GrandMax - 10.5-lb for same diameter. If you're woried about knot strength, nothing is tougher than Seaguar Blue leader. The only place I specifically pick Seaguar Gold is for 30- and 40-lb surf leader for the sand abrasion.

no Seaguar Blue and Seaguar Gold are both leader, sold in 25-yd and 50-yd spools. If you're already shopping in Japan, you can add better leader to your order

1973? not really a guess, but matches the reel I wanted to show.

I have two Cabelas rods, both 3-pc, both stashed in kayak hold for when they're needed. I also believe both blanks are made by TFO, and Cabela's prices are great, especially my close-out casting traveler, which was 1/4 of TFO's price for same rod/blank. Many techniques, I can count the fish increase on good-old fashioned IM6 MM. Both extremes of rod-load-rating and action are where you're going to find price makes a big difference. At the light end, extreme light weight, sensitivity, wide load range and big-fish butt-power. At the heavy end, MH and up, quite simply, new, better rods use less plastic resin and more structural material, so they slash weight, reduce tip weight, and improve everything about fishing them. @GreenTrout no offense, but I'll never get paying a royalty to have someone else's name on your tackle.

Leader spools will have better Q/C than bulk-fill line - uniform diameter and properties. Seaguar Blue is probably the best you'll find for knot strength and toughness; Gold for highest abrasion resistance.

@Kirtley Howe I have a set of JIS drivers, also a set of standard Phillips Wiha drivers (yellow top). Most PH1 on Japanese reels respond better to the Wiha driver than the JIS driver. When the going gets tough, I have a set of bits with 3 different tip shapes in PH0, 4 different shapes in PH1, and 4 different tip shapes in PH2 - they also work in my T-handle wrench The bits saved me on a loctite'd PH1 that had already been damaged (destroyed) by the previous owner of my CV-Z, (probably why he sold it) When you have screws to replace for damaged heads, Bolt Depot is over-the-top for piecemeal fastener sales and service - they give tiny orders the same respect as industrial orders and post 1st class mail.

and of course the subject of this thread is maintaining reels properly at home.

@F14A-B five years later, they send me those chiller tubes for failure analysis. Ferric and cupric ions make hydrochloric acid 10 times more corrosive - this is where those ugly neglected salt reels ended up.

@F14A-B First, mineral spirits to penetrate the threads, then, proper hollow-ground driver bits: 1 - hollow-ground screwdriver blade 2, 3 - cheap tapered screwdriver 4 - cheap tapered screwdriver at work 5 - damage produced by cheap tapered screwdrier 6 - hollow-ground driver at work Never muriatic (hydrochloric) acid - that's exactly what you're trying to get out of reels using vinegar bath.