immortl

I am looking to pick up two additional Stella FK spinning reels. I've been looking at the USDM and JDM models (digitaka) and they appear roughly equivalent. The JDM has a few more variations available (compact versions and more options for gear ratios) and I understand the handles on the JDM versions are a tick shorter. Does anyone know if there are other differences that I may be missing? I am liking the cost savings of the JDM, but at this price point, what's another few bucks if something is better or better suited on the USDM. I picked up a USDM Stella FK 1000 for one of my ultralight trout rigs last spring and yeah, those are the spinning reels for me (the JDM Soare 500 is also pretty darn nice). I started getting back into bass fishing a little this past summer and am looking to ramp up this winter and next season. I have primarily used spinning gear over the past 30 some odd years and am refreshing my spinning rods and reels and will also add a baitcaster or two into the mix as well. These two new Stellas will be targeted for something along the lines of NRX+ medium power rods. Been looking at the 2500 and 3000 series, understanding the difference is only in the spool size between these two. One for finesse/soft baits, another for moving lures (probably a conquest MBR medium power for this one). Thanks, Joe

I agree wholeheartedly with A-Jay about the absurdly weak knot strength with nano braid. This fall I tried out Hitena Airbraid Razor line in 5.1lb and 3.1lb on my ultralight trout rigs. Now these break at or near their rated strength, there isn't much overhead. 5.1lb is .086mm diameter and the 3.1lb is .067mm in diameter. According to the specs, using a 'figure 8 knot' the breaking points are 2.3lb for 5.1lb 1.4lb for 3.1. I couldn't tie anything to the line without the knot failing using my standard surgeon or improved clinch knots (I know, not the strongest choices, but I'm good with them with cold fingers). I fished for the morning with the 5.1lb and then when it started raining in the afternoon, I ran off to Cabela's down the road a ways and had both reels stripped and put on Suffix 131 6lb braid. Other than me not being able to really see the line against the backdrop of the stream, the Suffix 131 has been working great for me. Using it on a Shimano Soare 500 (JDM) and a Stella FK 1000.

I feel your pain. It is quite a change when we're taking care of those who once took care of us. I believe it is 100% OK to take a few hours or a day to get out fishing. I'm full time taking care of both my elderly parents, my wife and her medical procedures, and work full time (fortunately from home) where over the past 2 months I have worked regular 40 daytime hours and about 14 additional night/weekend change windows that added 20-40 additional hours to each week. I am earning a hell of a lot of comp time for when I have to run them to doctors and whatnot, so that's a plus. Last week both parents were in the hospital while the wife was recovering from surgery. Getting out fishing for a few hours every other week or so greatly contributes to me maintaining whatever semblance of sanity passes for 'normal' for me. And in my case, they're happy for me to get out for a bit and look forward to the videos of my catches when I get home. Hang in there, and do take care of yourself, you cannot help others if you're not taking care of yourself. Added on edit: well looky there, I passed the threshold and can edit my posts, woot! (Take pleasure in the little things, that helps too). Sending

Do we ever get to edit our posts once we hit a certain count? Little more info as I've thought about it. With the chest view, one's hands/arms tend to block most of the view when reeling in, that's why I prefer the head POV. I try to be conscious about slowly moving my head when recording as well as holding things out in front of me if I want to capture what I'm doing with my hands in the video. I mostly record stream trout fishing and struggle a little with capturing up high enough and down low enough. I've tried the max lens mod, but prefer to not have the fisheye effect, prefer 4k (max lens limits to 2.7k), and like the polarizing filter (doesn't fit with max lense mod). I do make use of a remote on my wrist to trigger recording and use the GoPro labs firmware where I have customized the hindsight setting to remain active for 24hrs (by default it shuts off after 15 minutes of not interacting with the camera). This way hindsight is always recording in a 30s loop, so whenever I hit the record button on the remote, the video contains footage from 30s prior to me hitting the record button up through whenever I stop the recording. This lets me capture the cast and drift as well as the retrieve and release. It's been working well for me. My thoughts for a boat/kayak are to pick up another GoPro and have one mounted on a mount/mast somewhere in front of me and then learn about video editing to mush the 2 video streams together into something coherent. Need to get that kayak first, getting close to pulling the trigger. I record and post to youtube and my internal plex server for family and friends. You'll never hear anything about liking or subscribing in them. My parents in particular like to see the fishing videos as my dad doesn't get out any longer. I try to make them look decent for them and for my future reminiscing. That said I need to start editing them some.

I like the POV from the head mount. Watching others' videos, I was not a fan of the POV from the chest mount. I agree that on the bill of the hat was aggravating, particularly since I added a fan to the back of the camera for cooling, increasing the weight. I ended up purchasing a hat from Amazon where the mount is built into the face of the hat, where a logo would normally be. Still a little front heavy, but much more bearable than out on the bill. I have found this works quite well for me.

I am new to the world of boating electronics. However I have more years experience than I care to admit doing network security. I see that a lot of the electronics are 'networkable' via ethernet and see one can add 'switches' to connect multiple devices together for enhance functionality and sharing some info. Does anyone know, in general, is it TCP/IP running over those ethernet cables and through that 'switch'? Or is it some proprietary manufacturer specific protocol? Are the 'switches' traditional switches or hubs, or again something proprietary? Just curious at this point. Thanks, Joe

Perhaps this is what they're referring to? In description it says they'll fit the 'new' h-crate. https://www.mariner-sails.com/hobie-rod-holder-livewell.html

So yeah, I'm not buying the older ones at that 2500 price point. I am likely picking up a new one and plan on motorizing it and adding some electronics. found a few in stock locally. That said, I did stumble on another older one (waiting to hear on the year, but it has the old seat) for $950. Now I'm thinking, hmm 2nd kayak for guests? Oherwise ill be alternating between kayak when solo, and canoe when with my fishing buddy (his kids are off to college, a kayak is not in his cards for now). Things are escalating slightly over here. Good point on holding into current. I had sort of thought it would hold the orientation however the boat was when activated. I'll look into that some more.

I found them and their mounts. Any thoughts o the motor up front vs off the back? Found mounts for both, and for no real reason other than my inclination, I was thinking I would prefer it off the back of the kayak.

Actually found a 2012 model listed for $1000 on offer up. That said, I went yesterday and checked out a new one in person. Pretty sure I'm going to go the new route. That chair is pretty darn comfortable, the extra skeg/fin seems useful, warranty is appealing if I have any issues, etc... Exploring how best to mount a trolling motor with spot lock to one now. Once I get a better understanding, I'll see if I buy one now or in a few months when the 2023s come out.

No smells, no extra drop down fin, just the one at the back. I just got off the phone with a local kayak shop who had time to talk with me about kayaks. They thought it was high and were thinking more along lines of $1000 or a tick more to have something to float on the water with. Said the newer ones are different boats with several improvements, the chair being one. The older ones they said were good for their time, did have issues with cracking around the seat mounts (didn't see evidence of it but..). This caught my eye because it was a possible 'deal' but you and the shop both agreed that something newer, particularly since I'm interested in putting a spot lock trolling motor on it, would be better overall. Shop suggested the old town sportsman autopilot with spot lock, but didn't have any in stock currently.

No electronics or extras included, he wanted extra to include the paddle. What exactly am I looking for with regard to 'seat function'? It appears to be original, rear legs slip over 2 nubs then 2 hand screw deals hold front legs down. My interest in upgrading drive would be more for the 180 flip up version. In reading about the older 2010/2011 models, I come across posts talking about redesign in molding of the hole for the drive to make inserting it easier, I'm wondering if that affects compatibility with newer drive units. I'm sort of thinking not, but haven't come across a definite answer yet. My initial reaction was nope, not for that old, but as you noted, used ones seem to be 3-4k or more, granted they are newer. I'm continuing to search and have found a few 2014/2015 model year ones within a couple of hours of me for $2200-$2300... Other than the drive, the basic hull has pretty much remained the same since it was released in 2009, correct?

I've been considering picking up a fishing kayak. After some research and seeing several on the water, I am thinking a Hobie Pro Angler is the model I'd like. Would like one very stable for fishing standing up. Found a local listing where the person had 2 Hobie Pro Anglers 14s for sale. Originally they were asking $3000/ea and this weekend reached out and said $2500 would take one, so I went to check them out last night. I'd say they're very good shape - no dings, no scratches, underside looks pretty much like new, rudder drops and raises on on each, the cables for the side sliding anchor deal move freely, the ST drive mechanism is smooth, no noise/rattles/excess play. I had asked for the last few digits of the serial numbers so I could determine the model year prior, but he couldn't locate it. I'll believe that because I had a hard time finding them myself when I was there. But when I did find the serial numbers, I balked, because one was a 2010 and the other was a 2011. The drive mechanism is an original ST, no flip up fins, no 180. Anyone have any thoughts/opinions on what a fair price would be? No extras are being thrown in to the deal. He seems to be trying to sell everything separately, saying the paddle was separate, the cart was separate, etc... From what I can tell, the seller's parents own the apartment building and maybe these were left behind or something by someone and he is selling them for his parents (they don't seem to speak english, couldn't ask them directly). Or maybe flipping storage unit contents, I'm not sure. He didn't know a whole lot about them. What do you think a fair offer would be for one? What else should I be checking out on them?

I'm new here, reading a lot and think i actually have something to contribute on this one. I had issues with my GoPro 10 overheating in hot weather while wading streams trout fishing (it's on a head/hat mount). I tried a few things and settled on a simple 80mm USB powered fan from amazon, and I just rubberband it against the back of the camera. It's powered from the same external battery pack as the camera. I have not had an overheating issue since, even standing still in 90+ degree heat in full sun. This is with hindsight active (so continuous loop recording) recording at 4k 60fps, horizon lock on, and max stabilization. Fo fishing, if you load up the labs firmware, you can set hindsight to deactivate at whatever interval you want instead of the default 15 min of no camera interaction. I found the default timeout immensely aggravating and now have it set to 24hrs. The hindsight feature records either in 15s or 30s loop continuously when activated. So when you hook a fish and hit the record button, the video will include the 15 or 30s prior, in my case usually getting the cast and hook set on the video. Hope this is helpful Joe